[Guy]

I think that the early BS9000 may have datalink.  The service manuals on site show datalink present in the Mk1 (Types 2521 to 2530), but not present in the Mk2 and Mk3.  However, B&O service manuals have been known to be wrong in the past.

I think datalink was dropped from most products as N.RADIO and N.MUSIC compatible products were introduced, such as BS3000/3200.  N.RADIO used the old PHONO IR command.

The early BS9000s Mk1 were not N.RADIO/N.MUSIC compatible, hence required a SW upgrade.  Perhaps such a SW upgrade disables the datalink capability.

 

[Guy]

Sorry for answering in English.

The Beolink Wireless should only be used with an IR eye when it is connected to Beolabs (eg BL8000) by powerlink.  In such a setup it acts like a ‘wireless’ Beolink Active.

Your BL3500 is correctly connected to the Beolink Wireless by Masterlink cable.  The IR eye cannot control it because it is further up the ML chain.  You will have to keep using the BL3500’s IR receiver to control it.

[Guy]

Thanks Steve – great video as always!

I think the 3 little TVs on the floor (2 mins in) are MX1500, not 1000. I don’t think there was an MX1000, but could be wrong!

[Guy]

For info, here are three of my failed screens, two of which are now in the post to pilatomic. Subject to his investigations, we’ll start a new ‘Beo4 Screen Failure’ thread with any findings!

All the following are trying to display ‘RADIO’

 

[Guy]

Rendboell wrote:

By the way, what does A.OPT 5 and 6 mean and what is the functionality of these commands?

Similar to A.OPT 1 and 2 but where the product is in a LINK room.

See here: https://www.beoworld.org/beotech/mlsetups.htm

[Guy]

matador wrote:

Guy wrote:

@matador – can you help, or shall I delve into my boxes???

Hi Guy, I’m afraid I can’t help, I have no spare screen, all the faulty I have are mounted on remotes.

No problem – I’ll dig one out!

[Guy]

pilatomic wrote:

If you still have one (or more) damaged screen in your possession, and are willing to ship them to France, please PM me.

I do have at least one failed screen in a box somewhere. However, if matador (also France based) has one it may be easier to get from him.

@matador – can you help, or shall I delve into my boxes???

[Guy]

Further to the above, there is the ability to check the SW level of the BS3000 using Test Mode.  It’s all explained in the service manual, available to Silver and Gold members.

[Guy]

You can upgrade the SW of BS3000 to sw3.4 by purchasing a new processor chip here: https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69110-parts-for-bo/4074-firmware-bs30003200-v34/

Their description would suggest that one of the later updates was to include A.OPT 5 and 6.

To be safe, it could be worth checking that the upgrade works on all BS3000s, including the Mk1.

(I haven’t purchased the sw upgrade so can’t vouch specifically, but I have bought other products from them that have worked well)

 

[Guy]

My experience is exactly as matador’s above.  I always try to clean/replace/retighten the zebra strip, and clean the PCB where it connects. I have also tried a new zebra strip with the old screen, which didn’t work (same lines missing), whereas a new screen with the old zebra strip did work.

I have probably replaced about 10 screens.

 

 

[Guy]

You’d have to remove both the bridges (i.e below each 120V label) and replace across the 240V.

If you consider that the transformer winding terminals are numbered 1 to 8 from the left, then for a 240V supply you need 1 to be connected to 5 (hence the bridge), with the input  supply connected to 4 and 8.

(That’s from the service manual – avail to Silver and Gold Members!)

[Guy]

If you know someone who has a Beocom 5 (or even a BC6000 Mk2) it could be worth trying to reset the base with their phone.  It could be worth buying a second hand BC6000 Mk2 – in my experience they are better phones than the Mk1.

Also worth asking a B&O dealer for a quote – if they still have their Beocom test equipment it shouldn’t take long to re-flash the SW of the Phone and/or Base.

Also, reading back through the thread I don’t think we actually tried a reset of the Beocom 5 itself.  I understand that can also be done using the 9#9#9*INT sequence, as discussed here: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/35637.aspx

[Guy]

+1 for the rubber belt – I replaced it on mine and it solved the problem.

You can get the correct belt here: https://www.beoparts-shop.com/product/belt-for-beomaster-6000-ouverture/

You could also try a little silicon lubricant in the runners (apply with q-tip) but to be honest all you are doing is making the belt’s job easier.

[Guy]

The only external box that I am currently using is Apple TV.  I have previously used Humax boxes, both Freesat and Freeview, but most modern TVs have DVB-T2 built in so I’d only need something if I wished to record.

Here in UK the popular subscription services often have STBs, such as SkyQ, Virgin Media TiVO, BT YouView.  I don’t use any of these so I am not even sure if they all have IR remotes.

There may be people with BluRay players that would want these included.

If new STBs could be downloaded (like the later B&O downloadable PUC tables) I would image that users would find this very useful

 

[Guy]

matador wrote:

Anyway, maybe a little out of topic do you know how to trigger A.AUX from the 5000?

Does SHIFT RADIO not work (same as BL1000)? My BL5000 is in a box so I can’t check it!

[Guy]

Rudi,

Another question: Any plans to add PUC control for STBs? Perhaps this could just be a software update as the hardware (IR receivers/transmitters) is already present.

[Guy]

I think that’s a good decision in the circumstances. You may wish to send him a link to this thread so he can see that you have exhausted all known options!

[Guy]

Thanks Steve – that all makes sense!

To be honest I am a big fan of ‘one button press for a source’, hence why I like using B&O IR remotes. I am not sure that I could be fussed with scrolling through menus across the X and Y axis like in the Halo! (Not surprisingly, I also dislike using a mobile phone to operate an AV system ?).

[Guy]

I presume that the BC6000 was originally connected to another base that you own, known to it as ‘Base 1’ (with your phonebook stored).

If this is the case, your phone still has registration to ‘Base 1’ stored – even though it is currently connected to a different base (Beoline 2) to make calls. Perhaps the BC6000 can only reset the first base that it is connected to, and this is not currently the Beoline.

You could try resetting the BC6000 handset: Dot 7 000 9 OK.

Then re-register the BC6000 to the Beoline 2 and try the Dot 7 000 8 OK trick to reset the Beoline 2.

However, I do know that there are software incompatibilities between older handsets and newer bases, so perhaps you simply cannot reset a Beoline 2 from a Mk1 BC6000.

I can’t think of any other suggestions, apart from disconnecting everything (perhaps even removing phone batteries), leaving it overnight and trying again tomorrow. Beocom/Beoline registration can be quite temperamental and sometimes it takes a bit of patience and luck!

[Guy]

I forgot to say that after pressing Dot 7 000 8 you should press OK (centre of wheel).

Does that make any difference?

[Author]

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