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There is some inconclusive discussion here: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-8-beoplay-a8-remote-quick-questions/
I would be tempted to see if it is indeed in A.OPT 4 (which does respond to a long press to turn off). Perhaps try the usual method for setting A.OPT 1?
EDIT: If it won’t go into A.OPT 1, try using the LINK command from Beo4, or put the Beo4 in permanent LINK mode.
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Maybe a moderator can remove the attachment?
Done!
Great project, but sadly beyond my talents! That Beomaster looks almost as crowded as the original (but definitely more useful). Any need for cooling?
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I just remembered a local repairer in Redditch – although I have no experience of them (perhaps someone else does?): http://www.iconic-av.co.uk/
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld! This is the second BeoSound 1 fault reported today, so it’s great that people are trying to get this great bit of kit working! (I have three!)
Most of my BeoSound 1 experience is in the following and linked threads: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-1-faulty-cd-player/
We do have the service manual available on Beoworld for paying Silver/Gold members. You really need to look at this before you start messing around in the service manual.
Is the antenna connected in the connections underneath – maybe this could account for the lack of sound? You could also try connecting a source to the aux socket. Aux is selected by presing the track << and >> buttons together*.
* On the later ‘Mk2’ model (SW2.X), aux is selected by pressing the CD < and > buttons together – just wanted to add that for completeness!
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Hi Amanda and welcome to Beoworld!
Firstly just wanted to let you know that I used my moderator powers to amend your displayname to remove your surname – good practice for privacy.
It’s good news that your BeoSound 1 seems to be working from an electronic perspective, because repair can be a bit tricky. The clicking sounds like an alignment/mechanical problem. One of my BeoSound 1s had a couple of mechanical issues and I put photos of the problem and solution within this thread: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-1-faulty-cd-player/
The linked thread also has some links to other related threads that may be useful. If you want to attempt repair yourself than the service manual is available on Beoworld for Silver/Gold (paying) members – it may just be a question of dismantling and checking that the mechanical CD componenets are all in the right place. Perhaps someone else has attempted repair and put it back together incorrectly.
Hopefully other members may be ablke to suggest a local repairer. Despite living in the Midlands I don’t know of anyone local.
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^ Great work Camiel, and welcome to Beoworld! I’ve always admired how much electronics is squeezed into the BM6500 packaging – but that must make it difficult to work on. One day I hope to get hold of a white one to match my BG6500.
Danish Sound Parts (one of our sponsors) do sell some spares for the BM6500 but I can’t see a capacitor kit unfortunately. Good luck with the project!
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… but avoid a ‘Hotel’ version with tailored buttons such as ‘Aircon’, or with blank buttons (no text) – these will have limited functionality.
All of these will work:
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Thanks for the compliment Donby, and welcome to Beoworld!
I am actually away from home until Saturday, so I can’t look at my Beosound until then. Maybe someone else can observe their BeoSound 1 and check the sequence of events.
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The Passive works in one of two ways:
- As a simple amplifier: In which case it uses the Powerlink input only (no Masterlink connection, and no IR eye required). This is how you should use it to power your ceiling speakers in the same room as the BS9000.
- As an amplifier in a LINK room: In which case it makes use of the ML input only, and needs an IR eye to be connected so that you can control the BS9000 from the link room.
If using it in the first option above, connect the Passive using a Powerlink cable to one of the BS9000’s Powerlink/Speaker outputs.
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Here’s a BeoLaterGram for you guys. Last year my office expanded to include a pair of garage laboratory spaces for automotive-sized projects. I thought it was only appropriate to kit it out with a small B&O system from my surplus of gear for background tunes.
Its a BeoMaster and BeoGram CD 6500 with a pair of 4000s sitting on my 3d printed table stands.
That’s a nice clean setup. I thought that work-bench would look good in a home setup, then I googled the prices!
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PS where can I buy the Powerlink plugs so I can solder up a cable from the Beovision to my Beolab 7.1? I need to make a longer one than the old one I have…..
Packs of 5 available here: https://soundsheavenly.com/products/powerlink-compatible-black-8-pin-din-plugs-pack-of-5-plugs
… but I would probably buy a ready made cable of the correct length from Steve as I don’t like such fiddly soldering 😊
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Great news that it’s all working – those datalink pins can be a right pain to unscrew and replace. And I hope you labelled the faulty cable before putting it back in your B&O stuff box!
I have some cables that I didn’t notice were ‘faulty’ for several years – 3.5mm plugs to 5-pin DINs (aux input) that reversed the Left and Right channels. Now I always double check.
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I think that should work, especially as you have double checked the cables. I assume that you have also tried powering everything down, disconnecting, reconnecting, re-powering and then re-setting A.OPT 0 and V OPT 2. Maybe also check that the BL1611 is receiving power (in UK I would check the fuse in the plug).
Make sure that you are connecting the TV/AUX socket of the BM7000 (next to the LINE IN/OUT blank) to the correct AAL socket of the BL1611.
Running the Product Configuration Guide states that you should also add a Powerlink Cable between BM7000 and the 1611 converter, so perhaps the BM7000 needs this additional connection to unmute the sound. Worth a try!
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Hi,
I have a Beo9000 connected to a passive and IR eye. I have beolab 3’s in another room (I appreciate this is not the ideal placement but I wanted the 9000 displayed on a wall and it had to be in the same room as where my ceiling speakers are connected to the passive).
The IR eye will not respond to any commands from my remote.
The left speaker is much louder than the right speaker. The sound balance is not favouring either side.
A bit confused..
(I deleted my last reply because I did not read your post properly!)
How is the BS9000 connected to the Passive – are you using ML cable? If the ceiling speakers are in the same room as the BS9000 and powered by the Passive, then the Passive should be connected to the BS9000 by a fully wired powerlink cable, and there shouldn’t be an IR sensor attached to the Passive. The BS9000 would then be controlled by its own built in IR sensor, and should be set in A.OPT 1.
Beolab 3’s in another room should be connected to a BL Active connected to the BS9000 by Masterlink. The BL Active would need an IR sensor to allow independent remote control in this room.
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Interesting setup! Does this old thread help?
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/4801.aspx
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The BM6500 should also have some overall dismantling instruction which will be similar if not identical to BM7000.
Further to the above, this video may be useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVLcn-fd3VY
You can see the removal of PCB4 about 10 minutes in – the battery will be under the metal cover with the yellow label.
Sometime the Kose videos can be a bit ‘rough and ready’ (I would never use a powered screwdriver, for instance), so just be very careful not to break anything else when dismantling, especially when disconnecting plugs and prising old brittle plastic out of the way.
EDIT: See also this thread for a picture of the battery: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beomaster-7000-preset-levels-issue/
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The Service Manual on the site should be enough to go on – it shows the position of PCB4 (page 10-1), and a diagram of PCB4 (page 11-5 – two versions shown) showing where the battery is located.
I usually fit these batteries as the have the correct pin spacing: https://uk.farnell.com/renata/cr2450-nfh-lf/battery-lmo-0-54ah-3v/dp/4551077
Just be careful when desoldering/soldering as there is a risk of explosion if too much heat applied.
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Oh, and I unscrewed two pins on the DIN from the Beogram 7000, and now can’t find them. You would not by any chance know where such can be acquired?
Hopefully someone else can help with the rest of your questions, but in the meantime: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/datalink-pin-for-remote-control-communications-din-cable/
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Page 29 of the same manual, but you can only do this for the BS5:
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Great thanks! How can i check the BS5, BS4 and BL2000 settings please?
The User Guides are actually still available on the B&O documentation pages here: https://support.bang-olufsen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038206612-Documentation-Library
Once you have had a look, come back here if you have specific questions.
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