Forum Replies Created
-
Hello B&O Experts,
I’m looking for a way to bridge old and new B&O components to create a whole house synchronous audio system. In particular, I’d like to enable my old Masterlink setup to join newer products like the ones shown in the figure below. My question to you experts out there boils down to the following: can I connect a Beosound Core (or, alternatively a Beoconnect Core) to a Beolink Converter 1611(?) via Powerlink, and have the Beolink Converter distribute the audio to the existing Beosound 3500 and Beolink Passive + passive speakers via Masterlink? If this is not possible, alternative suggestions are welcome!
Thanks!
Yes I think that should work. In effect you will be using the Core’s PL output as an ‘aux’ output, hence it should be set to a fixed level in the Core menu. It should be connected to the BL1611’s Audio Aux Link (AAL) socket (not PL socket) according to the diagram given earlier in the thread (attached below). If connected to AAL pins 1 and 3 you will select from the ML rooms using a Video source on Beo4, but if connected to AAL pins 1 and 4 you will select using an Audio command on Beo4.
You should then be able to change volume in the ML rooms, but not alter the source or turn on/off.
EDIT: You haven;t said whether there is an existing audio- or video-master on the ML side of your system (eg TV or BeoSound) – I am not sure what the dotted line to the ‘A’ means in your diagram. If there is such a device, please say! Also, the ML speaker in your diagram is a BeoLab 3500, not BeoSound 3500!
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Hello – does anyone have screenshots of the Bang & Olufsen products featured in the below?
The Morning Show (seasons 3 and 4)
Your Friends and Neighbors
Black Rabbit
Love Story
The Housemaid
Elsbeth
Tron: AresI don’t recall seeing any of the others, but there’s a screenshot from Tron: Ares further up this very page, courtesy of @matador
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Thanks for the recommendation and if anyone else needs repair near Redditch, I’d highly recommend them. Speedy service and competitively priced. Jason certainly knows his B&Os!
Thanks for the feedback Amanda, and I am glad that your BeoSound 1 is up and running.
Jason is hugely experienced in B&O and is indeed a great person. One of the “good guys” whom I’ve been lucky to know for many years. There are plenty around still, and most of them are still here on BeoWorld 😊
Great to hear from you Lee – I hope all is well !
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Just to add to the above advice, if you are not happy using the B&O junction box (which is quite fiddly) then replace it with something easier to connect, maybe like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/GTSE-Electrical-Connector-Blocks-Terminal/dp/B08LNWMMHQ?th=1
I have even used car cable crimps in the past to join two ML cables.
After all, it’s in the attic and doesn’t need to look nice. Just make sure that there is some form of strain relief to stop the cable pulling out of the connectors.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome!
One of our sponsors, Danish Sound Parts, offers this: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/grease-for-carriage-metal-rails-etc/
But it could be worth checking with them first that it will be suitable for a CD mechanism.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Are these the linked threads that you were after?
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/10698.aspx
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/13999.aspx
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/36717.aspx?PageIndex=2
(I searched using google with search term: XXXXX site:archivedforum2.beoworld.org (where XXXXX was the five digit reference towards the end of your given link addresses – i.e #5328, 28687 and 30181)
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Hi Matador!
I’m glad something worked. I did just check the manual and noticed this – see the bit in bold:
Priority of connections;
1. iPod/iPhone/iPad dock
2. USB
3. AUX
This means that AUX cannot be
activated if an iPod/iPhone/iPad
is connected, or other equipment
is connected via USBPerhaps the system thinks something else is connected – or perhaps there has been damage to the iPod dock connection that makes the unit think an iPod is connected?
And I am well thanks, although busy with Grandson this weekend. I hope you are keeping well too!
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
There is some inconclusive discussion here: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-8-beoplay-a8-remote-quick-questions/
I would be tempted to see if it is indeed in A.OPT 4 (which does respond to a long press to turn off). Perhaps try the usual method for setting A.OPT 1?
EDIT: If it won’t go into A.OPT 1, try using the LINK command from Beo4, or put the Beo4 in permanent LINK mode.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Maybe a moderator can remove the attachment?
Done!
Great project, but sadly beyond my talents! That Beomaster looks almost as crowded as the original (but definitely more useful). Any need for cooling?
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
I just remembered a local repairer in Redditch – although I have no experience of them (perhaps someone else does?): http://www.iconic-av.co.uk/
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to Beoworld! This is the second BeoSound 1 fault reported today, so it’s great that people are trying to get this great bit of kit working! (I have three!)
Most of my BeoSound 1 experience is in the following and linked threads: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-1-faulty-cd-player/
We do have the service manual available on Beoworld for paying Silver/Gold members. You really need to look at this before you start messing around in the service manual.
Is the antenna connected in the connections underneath – maybe this could account for the lack of sound? You could also try connecting a source to the aux socket. Aux is selected by presing the track << and >> buttons together*.
* On the later ‘Mk2’ model (SW2.X), aux is selected by pressing the CD < and > buttons together – just wanted to add that for completeness!
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Hi Amanda and welcome to Beoworld!
Firstly just wanted to let you know that I used my moderator powers to amend your displayname to remove your surname – good practice for privacy.
It’s good news that your BeoSound 1 seems to be working from an electronic perspective, because repair can be a bit tricky. The clicking sounds like an alignment/mechanical problem. One of my BeoSound 1s had a couple of mechanical issues and I put photos of the problem and solution within this thread: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-1-faulty-cd-player/
The linked thread also has some links to other related threads that may be useful. If you want to attempt repair yourself than the service manual is available on Beoworld for Silver/Gold (paying) members – it may just be a question of dismantling and checking that the mechanical CD componenets are all in the right place. Perhaps someone else has attempted repair and put it back together incorrectly.
Hopefully other members may be ablke to suggest a local repairer. Despite living in the Midlands I don’t know of anyone local.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
^ Great work Camiel, and welcome to Beoworld! I’ve always admired how much electronics is squeezed into the BM6500 packaging – but that must make it difficult to work on. One day I hope to get hold of a white one to match my BG6500.
Danish Sound Parts (one of our sponsors) do sell some spares for the BM6500 but I can’t see a capacitor kit unfortunately. Good luck with the project!
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
… but avoid a ‘Hotel’ version with tailored buttons such as ‘Aircon’, or with blank buttons (no text) – these will have limited functionality.
All of these will work:
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Thanks for the compliment Donby, and welcome to Beoworld!
I am actually away from home until Saturday, so I can’t look at my Beosound until then. Maybe someone else can observe their BeoSound 1 and check the sequence of events.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
The Passive works in one of two ways:
- As a simple amplifier: In which case it uses the Powerlink input only (no Masterlink connection, and no IR eye required). This is how you should use it to power your ceiling speakers in the same room as the BS9000.
- As an amplifier in a LINK room: In which case it makes use of the ML input only, and needs an IR eye to be connected so that you can control the BS9000 from the link room.
If using it in the first option above, connect the Passive using a Powerlink cable to one of the BS9000’s Powerlink/Speaker outputs.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Here’s a BeoLaterGram for you guys. Last year my office expanded to include a pair of garage laboratory spaces for automotive-sized projects. I thought it was only appropriate to kit it out with a small B&O system from my surplus of gear for background tunes.
Its a BeoMaster and BeoGram CD 6500 with a pair of 4000s sitting on my 3d printed table stands.
That’s a nice clean setup. I thought that work-bench would look good in a home setup, then I googled the prices!
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
PS where can I buy the Powerlink plugs so I can solder up a cable from the Beovision to my Beolab 7.1? I need to make a longer one than the old one I have…..
Packs of 5 available here: https://soundsheavenly.com/products/powerlink-compatible-black-8-pin-din-plugs-pack-of-5-plugs
… but I would probably buy a ready made cable of the correct length from Steve as I don’t like such fiddly soldering 😊
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Great news that it’s all working – those datalink pins can be a right pain to unscrew and replace. And I hope you labelled the faulty cable before putting it back in your B&O stuff box!
I have some cables that I didn’t notice were ‘faulty’ for several years – 3.5mm plugs to 5-pin DINs (aux input) that reversed the Left and Right channels. Now I always double check.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
I think that should work, especially as you have double checked the cables. I assume that you have also tried powering everything down, disconnecting, reconnecting, re-powering and then re-setting A.OPT 0 and V OPT 2. Maybe also check that the BL1611 is receiving power (in UK I would check the fuse in the plug).
Make sure that you are connecting the TV/AUX socket of the BM7000 (next to the LINE IN/OUT blank) to the correct AAL socket of the BL1611.
Running the Product Configuration Guide states that you should also add a Powerlink Cable between BM7000 and the 1611 converter, so perhaps the BM7000 needs this additional connection to unmute the sound. Worth a try!
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
