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If using with the selector switch in the L or R setting I would not be concerned about such a double input, because the BL3500 will only amplify one or the other.
However, if as I suspect you are using the switch in the line setting, to be on the safe side I would cut the cables as suggested in your last sentence. I say this because I am unsure how the line detection ‘auto-switch on’ works and decides which pin to amplify. The auto-sense logic could be ‘L or R but not both’ – or it could be looking at the difference between L and R to switch on. Just a thought, and perhaps others will know for sure!
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Further to the above, if you have been swapping connections around it is always worth double-checking that you have got these correct!
In particular, I would double check that the BM7000 AUX/TV socket is connected (with a 7-pin DIN) to the Audio Aux Link (AAL) socket of the BL1614 converter.
If there are no speakers connected to the BM7000, you should also have a Powerlink connection from one of the BM7000’s PL sockets to the Powerlink socket on the BL1614.
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If not press Menu+0+9+GO The display should now show ML ON or ML OFF. If it is off use up or down commands to change to ML ON
I think we previosuly discovered that on later software versions, there may be a need for pressing MENU twice, i.e: MENU MENU 0 9 GO
Worth a try!
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Hi Shaun and welcome to Beoworld!
Great work so far on the Beocenter 3300. A number of spares are available over at one of our site sponsors here: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product-category/beocenter/beocenter-3300/
I am not an expert on the older systems, but there may be a number of other models that share parts. For example, apparantly the same amplifier sections are found in Beomaster 2200 and Beocenter 4000 (I discovered this from this very old thread, so have a search about on the forum: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/5810.aspx)
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Any chance if you know if there is a certain polarity to the opto coupler pins? I want to avoid installing it incorrectly.
The one sold by DKsoundparts does have a polarity, but it is probably very easy to work out by comparison with the removed coupler (and looking at the circuit diagram, if you have it). I would think that most (all?) opto-couplers do because they will use an LED to transmit the signal which then is received by the sensor part. If buying from DKSoundParts ask them for advice – theirs comes with an extra resistor to slightly increase the supply current, so that should have instructions how to fit also.
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When you say “shorten the contacts”, does this mean squeeze in the contacts inward while turning the wheel or something else?
I meant to connect something metal across them (eg screwdriver blade) to simulate the contacts closing.
I tested the micro switch with a DMM. When the wheel is turned and the metal bar in the middle makes contact with either side contact, there is continuity. So at least that part of the switch appears to function.
I am guessing but perhaps the opto coupler is faulty – you can get a replacement here: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/wheel-opto-reader-for-master-control-panel-5500-6500/
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I would normally suggest SoundsHeavenly but they don’t ship outside Europe.
But how about this: https://www.av-connection.com/?PGr=19857
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Hi Greg and welcome to Beoworld!
You could first try cleaning the contacts of the existing microswitch – carefully with contact cleaner. I would think that a replacement switch can only be removed from another MCP5500.
You could try shorting the contacts of the microswitch while turning the wheel, just to prove that this is the problem. (If the opto-coupler had failed then the system would light up but no changes would be registered)
I hope this helps – it’s a very long time since I worked on an MCP5500!
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Hello B&O Experts,
I’m looking for a way to bridge old and new B&O components to create a whole house synchronous audio system. In particular, I’d like to enable my old Masterlink setup to join newer products like the ones shown in the figure below. My question to you experts out there boils down to the following: can I connect a Beosound Core (or, alternatively a Beoconnect Core) to a Beolink Converter 1611(?) via Powerlink, and have the Beolink Converter distribute the audio to the existing Beosound 3500 and Beolink Passive + passive speakers via Masterlink? If this is not possible, alternative suggestions are welcome!
Thanks!
Yes I think that should work. In effect you will be using the Core’s PL output as an ‘aux’ output, hence it should be set to a fixed level in the Core menu. It should be connected to the BL1611’s Audio Aux Link (AAL) socket (not PL socket) according to the diagram given earlier in the thread (attached below). If connected to AAL pins 1 and 3 you will select from the ML rooms using a Video source on Beo4, but if connected to AAL pins 1 and 4 you will select using an Audio command on Beo4.
You should then be able to change volume in the ML rooms, but not alter the source or turn on/off.
EDIT: You haven;t said whether there is an existing audio- or video-master on the ML side of your system (eg TV or BeoSound) – I am not sure what the dotted line to the ‘A’ means in your diagram. If there is such a device, please say! Also, the ML speaker in your diagram is a BeoLab 3500, not BeoSound 3500!
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Hello – does anyone have screenshots of the Bang & Olufsen products featured in the below?
The Morning Show (seasons 3 and 4)
Your Friends and Neighbors
Black Rabbit
Love Story
The Housemaid
Elsbeth
Tron: AresI don’t recall seeing any of the others, but there’s a screenshot from Tron: Ares further up this very page, courtesy of @matador
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Thanks for the recommendation and if anyone else needs repair near Redditch, I’d highly recommend them. Speedy service and competitively priced. Jason certainly knows his B&Os!
Thanks for the feedback Amanda, and I am glad that your BeoSound 1 is up and running.
Jason is hugely experienced in B&O and is indeed a great person. One of the “good guys” whom I’ve been lucky to know for many years. There are plenty around still, and most of them are still here on BeoWorld 😊
Great to hear from you Lee – I hope all is well !
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Just to add to the above advice, if you are not happy using the B&O junction box (which is quite fiddly) then replace it with something easier to connect, maybe like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/GTSE-Electrical-Connector-Blocks-Terminal/dp/B08LNWMMHQ?th=1
I have even used car cable crimps in the past to join two ML cables.
After all, it’s in the attic and doesn’t need to look nice. Just make sure that there is some form of strain relief to stop the cable pulling out of the connectors.
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Hi and welcome!
One of our sponsors, Danish Sound Parts, offers this: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/grease-for-carriage-metal-rails-etc/
But it could be worth checking with them first that it will be suitable for a CD mechanism.
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Are these the linked threads that you were after?
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/10698.aspx
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/13999.aspx
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/36717.aspx?PageIndex=2
(I searched using google with search term: XXXXX site:archivedforum2.beoworld.org (where XXXXX was the five digit reference towards the end of your given link addresses – i.e #5328, 28687 and 30181)
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Hi Matador!
I’m glad something worked. I did just check the manual and noticed this – see the bit in bold:
Priority of connections;
1. iPod/iPhone/iPad dock
2. USB
3. AUX
This means that AUX cannot be
activated if an iPod/iPhone/iPad
is connected, or other equipment
is connected via USBPerhaps the system thinks something else is connected – or perhaps there has been damage to the iPod dock connection that makes the unit think an iPod is connected?
And I am well thanks, although busy with Grandson this weekend. I hope you are keeping well too!
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There is some inconclusive discussion here: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-8-beoplay-a8-remote-quick-questions/
I would be tempted to see if it is indeed in A.OPT 4 (which does respond to a long press to turn off). Perhaps try the usual method for setting A.OPT 1?
EDIT: If it won’t go into A.OPT 1, try using the LINK command from Beo4, or put the Beo4 in permanent LINK mode.
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Maybe a moderator can remove the attachment?
Done!
Great project, but sadly beyond my talents! That Beomaster looks almost as crowded as the original (but definitely more useful). Any need for cooling?
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I just remembered a local repairer in Redditch – although I have no experience of them (perhaps someone else does?): http://www.iconic-av.co.uk/
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld! This is the second BeoSound 1 fault reported today, so it’s great that people are trying to get this great bit of kit working! (I have three!)
Most of my BeoSound 1 experience is in the following and linked threads: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-1-faulty-cd-player/
We do have the service manual available on Beoworld for paying Silver/Gold members. You really need to look at this before you start messing around in the service manual.
Is the antenna connected in the connections underneath – maybe this could account for the lack of sound? You could also try connecting a source to the aux socket. Aux is selected by presing the track << and >> buttons together*.
* On the later ‘Mk2’ model (SW2.X), aux is selected by pressing the CD < and > buttons together – just wanted to add that for completeness!
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Hi Amanda and welcome to Beoworld!
Firstly just wanted to let you know that I used my moderator powers to amend your displayname to remove your surname – good practice for privacy.
It’s good news that your BeoSound 1 seems to be working from an electronic perspective, because repair can be a bit tricky. The clicking sounds like an alignment/mechanical problem. One of my BeoSound 1s had a couple of mechanical issues and I put photos of the problem and solution within this thread: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-1-faulty-cd-player/
The linked thread also has some links to other related threads that may be useful. If you want to attempt repair yourself than the service manual is available on Beoworld for Silver/Gold (paying) members – it may just be a question of dismantling and checking that the mechanical CD componenets are all in the right place. Perhaps someone else has attempted repair and put it back together incorrectly.
Hopefully other members may be ablke to suggest a local repairer. Despite living in the Midlands I don’t know of anyone local.
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