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Sorry MM it’s not that good – I have misled you!
I put the BS1 in A.OPT 0, and then used the buttons to select AUX, hence just using as a dumb amplifier. It would indeed be great if I could work out a way to auto start it. But doesn’t one of the Essence BlueTooth remote setups also send an IR aux signal (I think I read that here).
My main aim was to get IR control of the Essence working – I really don’t like controlling it with the phone App and would rather just pick up the Beo4 and press RADIO (or N.RADIO – it responds to both). Eventually I will connect Beolabs, probably either my BL4000s or BL4s.
Just to add, volume control of the Essence also works well using Beo4 or the buttons on the IR sensor (as long as the Essence is not in fixed output level mode).
EDIT: I have also now updated the Essence SW to version 6.5.58119.11794462 (the SW change versions are here: https://update.bang-olufsen.com/products/58ba6c9e15524870a403957cdfbee6ab)
(IR control was working both before and after the SW update)
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An old thread I know but there’s been a major development 😊
After much patience I today got hold of a new round IR eye with the ‘join’ button, pre-wired with an RJ45 ready for Essence or NL/ML Converter (an ‘as-new unused’ purchase from Mercor’s eBay shop for about £45 incl P&P).
I booted up the Essence Mk2 connected from RJ45 PL output to the Aux input of a BeoSound 1. I pressed the sensor’s ‘join’ button and the internet radio burst into life. I then tried a Beo4 with no response.
I then used the app to stop radio playback, and carried out the usual Beo4 procedure to put the Essence in A.OPT 1 – this was acknowledge with a double flash of the little green LED at the bottom of the IR receiver.
I then pressed radio on the remote and it burst into life! Allows me to change channels and everything! I am very pleased (and relieved that there isn’t a fault with the Essence)! 😊
I will now try all the ways to control the Essence with the Beo4 (aux/source selection etc) and refer back to my old notes about what I was trying to achieve previously. I will add the NL/ML converter plus my M3 at some stage and see what sources I can select from where.
I genuinely think that there must be some sort of data ‘handshake’ requiement that prevents an older (non-join-button) IR sensor from working with the Essence Mk2, hence my problems with extensive testing of other sensors.I am happy to try other Essence Mk2 ‘IR control’ experiements if anyone wants me to look at anything else.Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Sorry for reply in English!
You could use a BV6-26 or 7-32 wall mount, but be aware that the bracket orientation is different – see here: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/reply/60350/
… and I am not sure that the wall mounting is designed to hold such a heavy TV.
I would try to find the proper BV10-32 wall mount – known as ‘Wall bracket – close, type 4708’. Or you could buy STB’s equivalent: https://www.stbbrackets.co.uk/product/wall-bracket-for-gypsum-and-dry-lined-walls/
Or you could try fixing the metal plate from your current stand onto the wall (drill new holes) and slide the TV on from above. I think someone from the forum has tried this successfully.
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Any decent cable with 5+ cores should be fine to extend the transciever cable – the MCL82 cable should be fine. The installation instructions do say that it should be no more than 10m long. (The cable originally supplied is 5m). Be aware that the cable is soldered at the transciever end, so you will be best just extending from the current bare wires – you could use another short piece of terminal block, or solder and wrap the wires for a neater join.
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@Guy: Regarding the connection box/terminal block, could you give some more details on how this would work as I’m not that experienced in wiring? I guess one wire in and two wires out for each of the seven wires of the MCL, right? What kind of terminal block would you recommend? I’ve got a rather long MCL cable with the speaker plugs in one end that I connect to the Beomaster. Not sure if it’s possible to cut some of this at the other end for the shorter connections. Otherwise need to find another MCL or make as suggested by speedsixdave (very good suggestions there!)
You can just use relatively cheap terminal block like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-16a-12-terminal-strips-10-pack/91532
… and to connnect just use the MCL cable (connected to your Beomaster’s speaker 2 sockets) and split out the 7 individual wires into one side, with then two wires from each connection the other side (one to each room or zone). You can put the terminal block inside some kind of box if you want to hide it.
And if you use the MCL2AV with passive speakers (connected directly to the MCL2AV’s loudspeaker sockets) you will not have independent volume control (the crcuit diagram of the MCL2AV just shows a relay in the loudspeaker circuit). To achieve independent* volume you need to add a Passive (or MCL2P) connected to one of the MCL2AV’s Powerlink sockets.
* Note the volume control will not be strictly independent – see the following text from the MCL Handbook:
This volume control permits you to reduce the volume in the link room without
affecting the volume in other rooms. The volume can be increased by 12
dB in the link room without affecting the volume in other rooms. If the
volume is increased further, the volume in other rooms will be increased
comparatively.Location: Warwickshire, UK
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So if I understand it correctly, I could either connect two passive speakers such as my CX50s to an MCL2AV (in which case I need to get a Beolink passive to go between) or two active ones directly to the MCL2AV? If I manage to find an MCL2AV without the transceiver, would the MCL2A transceiver that I bought also support the independent volume control?
Yes to all the questions that you have asked in this paragraph. Be aware that the MCL2AV requires a 15v power supply so ideally look for that when you purchase. If you can find one, the predecessor to the Beolink Passive was known as an MCL2P, and had the advantage of a built in 15v power output designed to power the MCL2AV.
I’m hoping to connect two rooms linked to the main room: first the one mentioned above with either the MCL2a or the MCL2AV, and then another one on the other side which may not need its own remote control ability since there’s only a glass door in between which is most often open. In this case I can maybe use the old MCL82 relay box just to hook up the additional speakers (passive ones). But how do I set up this as a “star” network, i.e. splitting the MCL cable from the Beomaster in the main room and one cable going left and another right to each of the linked rooms? In the owner’s manual there is mention of a “connection box” for this purpose but I can’t seem to find this online. Or is there an MCL cable splitter that could be used for this purpose?
Don’t worry about a specific ‘connection box’, as a simple terminal block will be fine to run parallel MCL circuits from the main room to two link rooms. I would be a bit wary of using the old MCL82 in parallel with the newer MCL2A (or AV) as there may be conflicts; it is however probably worth a try, especially if you are only using the MCL82 as an on/off switch in one of the rooms.
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I have an appalling memory.
Me too! I make extensive use of Google to remind myself of things that I said just a couple of weeks ago! 🙁
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We discussed this back here: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-4-question/
… and I think I caused the initial confusion by saying (wrongly) that they go to stand-by when set to PC! You had discovered that I was wrong in your subsequent post.
I think if I set mine up with the computer again I will try using the Powerlink input and use a Powerlink trigger from one of the computer’s USB sockets.
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Hi Paul and welcome to Beoworld,
BM3000-2 User Manuals, Service Manuals and Circuit digrams are available on Beoworld for Silver and Gold Members – see here for details: https://beoworld.org/membership/
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld.
Yes a dummy plug is needed. If you make your own you need to connect DIN pin 1 to 3, and 4 to 5.
Pins are numbered as shown here: (7 pin DIN shown)
You can see the connections in the original plug in the photo: (click to enlarge – sorry it’s a bit blurred)
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Further to the above, here’s a SW1.6 Active on UK eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/227411996450
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It’s great that the new RJ45 to ML cable worked – that was my suspicion because there are many variants out there.
With regard to AUX. The problem could be the BeoLink Active – it needs to have a SW level of 1.5 or higher to respond to the A.AUX command. Check the label of the Active and see if it has the SW level written on it.
Here’s an example to show where the SW level is written – you can see it bottom right (SW1.1 in this case): (click photo to enlarge)
Sadly very few of the second hand available Active’s are SW1.5 – always look at the label to check.
There may well be a ‘workaround’, but let’s check the SW level of your Active first.
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If you select a video (BS3) source from the link room can you hear the TV audio there and control the TV?
If not, try replacing the original RJ45 to ML cable in the link room and repeat the above test. Leave BS9000 disconnected.
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Are speakers connected to the BS9000, and if so is it in A.OPT 1?
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I do remember once previously that the two masters did cause a problem but the technician solved this. Is it the case that now I have three masters: BC2, BS3 and Bs9000 in the same room? I wonder if there is some conflict here.
This is almost certainly the cause of conflict – you have two audio masters (BC2 and BS9000) and a single video master (BS3). You should only have one of each (in the main room).
Try disconnecting the BC2 from ML and see if the link room works. If speakers are connected to the BS9000 put it in A.OPT 1.
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I would check all cables and connections in the first instance.
- Check that both BL4000s are connected to the Active’s single PL socket – NOT the PC socket (assuming the Active is Type 1636). You may need to daisy-chain from one BL4000 to the other.
- If possible try new PL cables from Active to at least one of the BL4000s.
- Try an alternative cable between main room BS9000 and link room/active – preferably a Masterlink cable without RJ45 adaptors. If this works, check the ML/RJ45 have the correct pin assignments.
Also try disconnecting the BS9000 and just using BC2 as the main room source.
(Not sure what BC3 is. Do you mean BS3?)
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Two facing down, middle facing up is correct. The battery cover slides on downwards, and is removed upwards – some people get this wrong.
I just checked my ‘remote spares’ box and have a spare BL5000 battery cover – top left tab (lausvi’s photo) only has broken off but it should still work. PM me your address and I’ll stick it in the post.
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I agree that it’s likely to be the transformer. When my BC9500 was starting to do the same I searched the internet and found sites/advice about relaminating or ‘potting’ a transformer: basically tightening up the plates that make up its core and re-coating them with resin – some processes involve then baking the core in an oven! Have a google and see what you think! I decided it was all far to much trouble, and although I did replace the bushes under the transformer I am not totally convinced that it made much difference. Mine was placed on a particularly resonant sheving unit at the time, which didn’t help.
I don’t think Danish Sound Parts supply bushes for the 3000-2, but could be wrong.
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Good news that you are moving forward – I’ve used both those extractors in the past, but they are all packed away now that I have a BV10-32 with hdmi inputs.
Sorry I can’t help with the 5.1 problems; I was only ever interested in 2.0 outputs. Hopefully someone else can chip in.
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