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Hi Guys,
The last speaker is drying now. Actually it was a bit of a struggle. After glueing it I did notice it was still scratching slightly. Believing it was not be noticeable I let it dry and of course, it was extremely noticeable. So I had to “break” it again and it was hard, violent and painful. But warming it with and hair dryer helped me to extract the magnet without too much damages. It was very difficult to center that one but right now it’s drying and it seems to be well centered.
So here we go for the pictures:
I fitted four bolts to be able to place the speaker on a flat surface without hurting the surround.
I also blocked the cone to prevent the coil from protruding from the base.
Scratching and cleaning the old glue residue.
The base in the 10€ rig and the magnet ready for the wedding.
After a loud “clac” sound, the magnet is ready for adjustment using the 6 screws around the rig.
I had to cut the dust cap to see the magnet core and use it as reference for adjustment. Not completely to be able to glue it back. But if everything works I may offer us brand new dust caps as the glued back are not so pretty.
After roughly 15-20 min of adjustment, the coil release itself around the magnet core and you can do quite fine adjustment. The “precision” of the adjustment is given by the screw you use. Some people uses wood screw, I prefer metal bolts with flat end for better contact with the magnet.
Once the cone move freely (and without any scratching noise) you just have to let it dry.
The most scaring part is what happened with the second speaker: breaking the coil wire or damaging the coil tube made of some sort of tin sheet easy to bend or dent. Thats why it’s important to protect the coil and check for electrical continuity at every step before the magnet is in place and the glue dry to much. The rubber surrounds give a little flexibility for that.
Once it’ dry, I put a bead of glue between the magnet and the gasket base and let it dry again.
Listening session Wednesday if everything goes fine.
Cheers.
Hi,
Still thinking on the better way to fix the magnet. In the meantime I’d like advices on something: the frets.
They’re in a coarse and stiff fabric glued on a thin panel made of wood and plastic for the wedge. the fret is fixed to the speaker with weird velcro strips, some in the groove in the edge of the speaker, and more wide bands in the flat surfaces of the front panel (those looks like added afterwards, not originals). The fabric is folded to follow the beveled shape of the wedge and not deformed like in the S45 or C30 I’ve seen.
I’d like to know if this fabric is original or not. It is actually in not so good shape and the speaker will benefit of changing it all (once the drivers are fixed!) but if they are original, I’d rather try to rescue them.
I’ve noticed P45, which seems to be technically identical have everything needed to clip their frets, like holes in the front panel which P50 don’t have.
So the two question I have are:
- Are those frets original (fabric and structure)?
- How where they originally fixed to the enclosure?
Below some pics. Thanks to alls.
Hi Bill, thank you for the explanation. It helps.
This is a schematic view of the Beolab 8000 internals:
From top to bottom: top plate, bass port, tweeter, 2 woofers, amplifier section, base cone.
The new damping looks like this:
Then after your comment, it blocks the high frequencies from the tweeter, but allows low frequencies coming from the woofers to “fill” the whole speaker, right?
I should add that if the kit didnt come with instructions, I would have placed them like that:
To “push” all the air towards the bass port.
