[matador]

Good evening cavscout,

The Beosystem 5000 is a complex system. I never did like t until I owned one and ended u loving it.

Maybe your problem is related to a common fail of the system that is the ribbon cable between the keyboard and the system. It needs dismantling and work, but if you’re not afraid of fixing the CD50 or the BC5000 it’s nothing beyond usual abilities.

The “Big” Remote is mandatory to program the system, which was a breakthrough feature in it’s time but not so useful nowadays. For everyday use the “little” remote is more useful (volume, source…). Nevertheless, when owning an BS 5000, the MCP5000 is a very impressing thing to have and very usefull too, even if you dn’t need to program any record.

Search in the forum 2012-2022, you’ll get plenty if not all the information you need.

All the best.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi alls,

I’m excited and a little bit proud to announce the first panel is playing music!
It was a battle to reunite the two ends of the broken wire in the coil but I worked.

To answer my own first question, this speaker is amazing and the bass are round and deep even thought I didn’t push it too far. Maybe not as clear as S45’s but very close and to be confirmed when (if) the second speaker will be repaired.

Drivers 3 and 4 are open on the table and waiting for their glue.

Also thinking to a way to fix the frets, maybe with neodyne magnets?

As it was a stressful first attempt, I didn’t take pictures but will when fixing the other speakers.

Again, thanks to Beoworld for all the useful informations it has provide.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Even if the purist part of me has some reserves, the User part of me scream it’s too good and quite well done aesthetically.

Would you share a little be more on the process to do it?

Thanks.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

The two last days where tense. After glueing and testing the first woofer it did work well.

Full on confidence and arrogance I went to the other one and I was punished for my pride.
The coil wire broke, and it was a nightmare to manage to relink it. The tool for centering the magnet broke too and I had to take some distance before coming back (24h) and start it all over again.

Fortunately, the second woofer is drying right now, the contact show continuity and read close to 7 ohms of impedance. It will be mount tomorrow in the evening I hope and I hopefully will be able to listen to one speaker.

Regarding the previous question about the fret, I’ve found pictures on the net that confirm the the fabric is original. I don’t know what to do with it right now because as original I want to keep those speakers, I can’t see a way of attaching the frets without them vibrating. I’ll see when I’ll be there.

A new question arises: the Phase Link driver, it looks like stuck too, no movement at all. I wonder if it’s by design (I hope so because on my S45, it’s not moving too). And also, why is that thing sticky?

Cheers.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

I believe “damiendada” is some sort of spamer because his two post are just “I agree and was asking myself the same…”

KolfMaker, nowadays the PSU are small. I dont know about the empty room size into BL6000 bt couldn’t you fit a PSU, feed from the main power socket to the voltage you need and tuck it somewhere inside the beolab? That would also makes your mod totally independent of the beolab electronics and rule out any related problem if they happen?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

As another member would say… Progress!

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thank you Guy, after a little search the Beolink MCL82 type 2041 works with the BS5000 and BC7700. The search also returned a little extract from the Beoworld product page that says: “It was superseded by the later MCL2 system which used Beolink 1000 codes.”

So I’ll assume it may potentially not work with moderne remotes. When I had a full 5000 system, I used little cheap IR repeater to help the return of the IR signal to the remote. It did work when the same repeater don’t with modern Beo remotes (1000/4/6/5000). So the theory is it wont work.

To the OP, apologies for this little out of topic, I felt like it didn’t deserved a full thread on it’s own. It’s now ended.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

I made some notes when I used an MCL sensor as a Beolink PC IR sensor. The three connections that you require are: Ground – Brown IR Data – Yellow +5v –

Hi Guy, does that mean you can use MCL IR sensors (square ones) with more modern hardware that need round sensors ?

To be more precise, would an MCL82 type 2041 sensor be able to control a beolink passive ?

Thank you.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

Another lead here Beolab 3500 Standalone

It is said that the speaker is triggered with a 5V signal in the powerlink socket.
Never heard about this solution that I would find easy and perfect, but the OP says it works.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi, nice project, but wouldn’t the bluetooth signal be too weak if the module is mounted inside the speaker?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

Still thinking on the better way to fix the magnet. In the meantime I’d like advices on something: the frets.

They’re in a coarse and stiff fabric glued on a thin panel made of wood and plastic for the wedge. the fret is fixed to the speaker with weird velcro strips, some in the groove in the edge of the speaker, and more wide bands in the flat surfaces of the front panel (those looks like added afterwards, not originals). The fabric is folded to follow the beveled shape of the wedge and not deformed like in the S45 or C30 I’ve seen.

I’d like to know if this fabric is original or not. It is actually in not so good shape and the speaker will benefit of changing it all (once the drivers are fixed!) but if they are original, I’d rather try to rescue them.

I’ve noticed P45, which seems to be technically identical have everything needed to clip their frets, like holes in the front panel which P50 don’t have.

So the two question I have are:

• Are those frets original (fabric and structure)?
• How where they originally fixed to the enclosure?

Below some pics. Thanks to alls.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Bill, thank you for the explanation. It helps.

This is a schematic view of the Beolab 8000 internals:

From top to bottom: top plate, bass port, tweeter, 2 woofers, amplifier section, base cone.

The new damping looks like this:

Then after your comment, it blocks the high frequencies from the tweeter, but allows low frequencies coming from the woofers to “fill” the whole speaker, right?

I should add that if the kit didnt come with instructions, I would have placed them like that:

To “push” all the air towards the bass port.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Alls,

Got the P50!

First of all, they’re big and heavy. Despite being very thin, they make My S45-2 look like a portable speaker!

Second, of course and as expected the 4 woofer are seized. I extract the two woofers from speaker 1 and was able to remove the magnet quite easily. Now the battle is to stick him back with the right alignment. What I’m the most afraid is to damage the coil in my attempts. One of them already has the coil wire flying out of the base cylinder that only begs to be cut!

I’m currently studying the Beoworld II forum about the better process to fix this.

Stay tuned.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Dariod,

Sorry if I tell you things you already know but as you said your newbie…

All your speakers are powered speakers that don’t need an amplifier to work.
Normally, they all have a line in socket that allow you to use them with a simple “RCA to anything” wire, sparing you from the need of expensive Powerlink cables.

Now, if you want to build an home cinema with all those speakers and be able to listen to music, manage scenarios, speakers allocation and more, the easiest way would be a Beosystem 3 or 4. It’s an AV system that stand between the TV and the speakers and can do… A lot of things… But they’re not cheap.

Or you can search for dolby boxes with line out (to your speakers) or Powerlink out (maybe Almando or something like that…) but then the music part would need to be handled by your TV.

Good luck.

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Jim,

Regarding prices I would not be a good source of information. I live in Paris and the second hand market in local ads is crazy, you can find a Beovision MX for free one day, and the other day another add with the same TV around 400€. There is currently a Beogram 4002 @ 2500€.

The eyes are rare, so rare that when I sold a beosystem 3 to a Swiss guy, he did send me his own IR eye for me to check the BS was working and I had to send it back, luckily with the Beosystem 3. So do the math: somebody want to sell one, he knows there is “Bang & Olufsen” printed on it, he looks for similar ads, he don’t find any then he puts a high price! Easy.

But I also know that depending on countries this rules do not ever apply. Each time I hear about second hand bargains on the forum I say to myself, “why do I not live in that country”!

Regarding your boxes, It don’t looks like B&O to me but I never opened that kind of box, so I don’t know for sure.

Good luck.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

To me the only thing preventing the PM to be “future proof” is the lack of support for 5 Ghz wifi. In my case this is not a problem because wifi works well and must stay 2,4 Ghz to allow standalone wifi speaker compatibility and sensitive connections are hardwired.

The ability of using it as a tiny basic Audiomaster is perfect to use a spare pair of Beolab.

I too thought of using a playmaker for TV, but the main problem is the lack of audio output in modern TVs. Of course you can use any audio extractor but I hate to have a collection of boxes and PSU behind the TV.

As for Airplay 2, You’re right, it may be a major downside. But when you’re streaming from a computer, it’s not a problem in since you can add and select many Airplay 1 devices.

Thanks for your kind words.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thank you again Julian.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thank You Geoff.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thank you Geoff for your answer, I was just worried my question became “invisible” with new topics coming along…

I adjusted the piece around the bass port tube, but what I don’t understand is isn’t the V shaped piece (the one just below the entry tube one) preventing the air coming from the woofer movement going through the bass port?

Actually I did “feel” that something is coming from the bass port by getting closer to the sounding speaker, but I’d like to understand the rough theory behind this since the original foams and the replacement are not alike at all.

Below, the foam kit guide…

Thank you Geoff.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Excuse me but after thinking it twice, I’d like to be sure I’ve understood well:

Are you saying the rendering is more affected by the height of the driver than the wall making some kind of reflector or resonator that compensante the box thinness?

Is that right ?

Location: Paris France

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