[matador]

Hi,

 

Torx N°5

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Ok,

After watching this thoroughly and to echoes Trackbeo’s post, there is something that bother me. (Bother me as to be taken as from someone who can’t afford it, if it matters. And also from someone who spend time “reverse engineering” wood lamellas on BL18):

The wood strips are so apart you can see the plastic structure holding them. It would work for a far (should I say “ignorant”) point of view, but to client used to B&O perfection it’s look like a pale copy (not even to mention the totally ‘not B&O forward design’).

It’s easy to criticize when I’m not ever gonna buy it, but still, eager to hear what you think.

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Being blessed enough with a somebody who would fancy gift me with a Stage if I ever wipe out all the little Yamaha cubes around the sofa, I’d like to know how the it compares with the Theatre in matter of “just” sound, not connectivity or expandability or whatever else. Lest’s say just in terms of sound and “spacialization” (pseudo rear channels).

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Looks like Rocketeer  flying reversed or some sort of Art Deco Snowpiercer…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

tuttivini wrote:

Still hoping I can find the STL files somewhere online

Tuttivini, I can design an STL based on the widely available 3D Beolab meshes provided by B&O, I can even make them stand on top of BL8000 as an aesthetic add-on. If you want this, just give me some time. they should be visually accurate.

But If you want to replace the 8000’s top plate with a true lens, I see two reasons I can’t help:

First, I won’t dismantle my 8000’s (again) to see how the original top plate is assembled to the column. so I can’t provide an exact replacement part.

Second, as I already said, I suppose ALT is a mix of tweeter size, related curves for the shell and (sound reflectivity?) material. If the first point was net there, I would still be designing look-a-like pieces in the blind hoping they will fit BL8000’s tweeter specs.

Something I thought some time ago… You can find on the second hand market, tweeter from an Audi car installation, they lean a little bit forward and that can make the whole thing look more modern and they should be accurate in rendering, but it’s playing god there…

(Geoff, if you read, please forgive us and remember I never did it!)

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

styppen wrote:

@matador, can you confirm if multiplying the scale factor for x100 will get the right dimensions?

I confirm,

I would have like an “hello” and a “thank you” though. But I’m old fashioned.
(Not the drink… Ok the drink too, but not what I meant, even if… Well, you see, right ?)

Location: Paris France

[matador]

tuttivini wrote:

And make our own accoustic lens on the beolab 8000 (In The Netherlands I found a person who 3d-printed this top cover. Re-using, rewiring, relocating the original 8000 tweeter).

This is typically too much for me, cheesy, the wood grills are too large and I would never ever alter the “sonic” design of the speaker more than just playing with the frets.

I suspect ALT is a little more than just a plastic shell over a tweeter. I wouldn’t do that.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

tuttivini wrote:

would it also be possible for you to design (stl files) those clamps for the 6000 series?

In theory, yes. But I don’t have Beolab 6000 to take measurements, do the adjustments and figure out how to fix them using the speakers hooks.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Tuttivini,

Thank you.

Interesting point you raised, that allow me to add some comments.

I’ve asked my brother in law (the father of the kid who printed the clamps for me) if he would do the same thing and he smiled at me saying “no”. What I understood is “if you have 8000’s keep 8000’s, don’t make them look fakes 18’s or even worse, fake B&O”.
It made me think. But just the pleasure of trying was enough (and the grills were already made at that time). That said, I can’t swear that the fabric covers will never return.

All this to say that I rather the 18’s “hommage” over the 18’s “copy” or “makeup”.
On top of that and more grounded, rounding the lamellas would have been a lot of manual work I’m not sur to be able to do. So I went for another way of doing it:

The ears are half rounded, and the rounding leads to the angular front-end, making all this quite pleasant in real. Enough to me.

Another detail I like every day when looking at them (and I must say, over other commercial alternatives) is that the chrome top cap of the column stick out of the wood top line. I’ve always thought that the wooden grill on Bl8000’s makes them look weird because our eyes are so trained to “wood=ALT”, they were always missing something. To the point of thinking to add a falser ALTs with Liliviken caps!
And then, I can see this little chrome ring sticking out the wood and it’s enough to me to balance de speaker design.

Now, more seriously, the important part is the clamps (and even more, the back part of the clamp), as a piece or as an idea.
It’s open to anyone to make it better, with thinner lamellas, different angles, better wood or wood work. I did go for cheap, that’s why I’ve advertised a total cost of 50€.

See this as a proof of concept and make it better, I’m sure it can.

Next work: the black 80 denier Woolford fret!

Cheers and thank you all for your comments.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

It would look like a little box with line-in and line-out sockets and a 5V input (or whatever is need to start the Beolab AND power the box circuitry.

Inside there will be a relay or something similar that would be triggered by the amplified Line-in signal (sound). The relay would have an auto hold loop with some sort of timing circuitry (I.E it would stick for “some” time when no sound is present and then open).

Output of the relay will trigger or not the 5V to the Beolab.

Now, Please note that I’m totally ignorant of how it could impact sound (since we’re playing with the main audio feed, but as far as I remember my electronic classes, this is not NASA technology here.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Sia43 wrote:

It seems like the trigger is going on as soon as a line signal is received and turns itself off after 6 minutes with no signal.

I’ve always wonder why no “electronic Guru” ever made that kind of thing: a box that amplify audio signal enough to trigger a relay with a timed auto hold that could power up any Beolab from a line in signal.

I say this as an ignorant but theoretically it doesnt seems so from an outer world, no?

Even by retro engineering the RCA line in part of a Beolab 4/6/8 x1000.

Just a thought.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi alls,

The STL’s are now attached to this post.

Credits and big thanks to Keith who add this feature so fast.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Glitch wrote:

I am looking for a second cartridge to use while servicing the turntable. I don’t want to take the risk of something unexpectedly happening and damaging the MMC1.

More seriously, I understand the fear of damaging a so valuable cartridge. Really, I was there before.

But we’re not talking about a cheap thing that can easily be found in different qualities and price ranges.
Unless you’re (very) lucky, an MMC4 will cost, whatever the way you get it, around 200$/€.
It can be a broken MMC plus refurbishment, a refurbished MMC, a NOS one (beware of NOS), or even a useless one sold as good.

Refurbishing a Beogram is a long, careful, and meticulous process. When you’re there, taking in an out the cartridge for tests isn’t the big deal, moreover with an MMCx (compared with an MMCxx where your always afraid to break the bridge).

And if I’m not mistaken, there is plenty of work to do before even needing to plug-in the cartridge and when you need, then it’s just a matter of adjustments than can be done carefully.

Whatever the price of a cartridge, it may be better used in components or spare.

Even if an MMC1 is legendary, I reckon.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Guy wrote:

… plus $55 shipping and packing. Plus about £55 import duty (payable direct to UPS) if shipping to UK.

Thank you for pointing that, absolutely true, import duty are not their fault but true anyway, and 55$ shipping and packing? C’mon on…

Glitch wrote:
I’ll have a hard time justifying the purchase to my wife.

Seems we’re all doomed with the same curse!       🙂

Location: Paris France

[matador]

egru123 wrote:

do you work for the swedish furniture company with the blue/yellow logo?

Like everybody in the world, I’m a customer.

But not a worker! Thank you for seeing the “hommage”.         😀

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

Have you read this?

https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/36279/270046.aspx#270046

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Guys,

I wanted to let you know that I’m still working on a way to publish the mesh “inside the B&O community”. If no success, STL’s will go to thingiverse.

In the meantime, you’ll find attached a little How-to with the plan for the top mask.

Regards.

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thank you Soren.

I would like to say that I, also like things to be 101% originals.

But the temptation, of having something close to, or just to try to mimic and maybe succeed, won.
The funny part is now it’s done I may soon revert to the original frets or even previous speakers.
I like the result, but for a so called “enthusiast” it will always see them as a fake thing, not  8000’s anymore and never 18’s. I had fun copying the fancy Beosystem 72-22 like for common people but I still see it as an experiment, and nothing more.
But to me it raised some questions, like the one you answered, that’s the fun of it.

Anyway, theses speakers are in my office, where I spend most of (99%) of the time seated in the same place. Will check about directivity.

Thanks for stopping by…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Die_Bogener wrote:

it just needs an old retired tv tecci and some parts…

Like everyone of us…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Olivier.

Thank you, all you linked to worked and it was indeed an answer if I understood it well.
What I understood is:

• The effect of the grill may or may not be negligible.
• Speakers are tuned with the grill.
• If the grill has an effect, changing it may affect the rendering of the speaker.
• That change may (scientifically) or may not (perceptibly) obvious.
• I reckon for, say a level, it’s not important if you change the grill — fabric for wood or the other way around — aftersale.
• But for an high end speaker like the BL 50 or even 28, what happend when you change the original setup? Beliviing that client for them are “aware” of rendering.

Thanks again Olivier.

Location: Paris France

[Author]

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