[Guy]

pepps wrote:

I am assuming I can ask for ‘the most recent list of PUC codes’ as long as I check the specific codes I need are included? (I’ve never had a B&O home visit before.)

I am not sure if there is a limit to the number of PUC codes that can be uploaded so best to check with the dealer. I have also never had a home visit; my first BV6 was purchased from Darren of Timeless AV and he uploaded my requested codes before sending me the TV.

pepps wrote:

The Youview box does have a scart output and I think I’ll have to stick with that, both for the reason you highlighted above regarding PUC use but also because my humble BV6 is an old one. It’s a type 9202 running SW2.3.

Yes I would stick with SCART – the type 9202 is a BV6-22 so with that screen size SCART will be absolutely fine.

pepps wrote:

When I connect a Firestick via a Prozor HDMI 3-in-1-out with audio extractor and HDMI/DVI adapter it pops up a thin blue strip across the screen stating that no DVI input can be found or that the device is incompatible

That does sound like an HDCP problem. Some of the hdmi audio extractors remove the hdcp, but if you are happy with SCART then I wouldn’t bother trying to investigate further. HDCP is a bit hit and miss, and mostly the latter!

pepps wrote:

Now what is interesting here is that although there are many posts to the contrary, when I first connected my BV7-40mk5 to this little BV6 with a masterlink cable I was able to see and hear picture and sound from the inbuilt terrestrial tuner, the bluray player (yes) and the firestick (connected by HDMI to the BV7).
The picture was not high definition, of course, but the image and accompanying sound was there.
Now if only a 25m long masterlink cable wasn’t so expensive I would be tempted to set up a link system from the living room to the kitchen.

I did find an option within the BV7’s settings which provides the option to turn HDCP off for use with projectors, but at the time of testing this the feature was not activated. I wondered if this may have been the enabler which allowed various digital pictures to be shared with the little BV6 screen.

I also discovered something similar. I connected my BV10-32 to one of my BV6s with masterlink and co-ax cables, and it was able to distribute the picture even from Freeview HD channels, and from the Apple TV connected to hdmi. I agree that there are many posts that say that the distribution of digital sources is not possible! You could look out for second hand ML cable, but to be honest unless I wanted further functionality (eg CD and radio from a main room to the BV6) I probably wouldn’t bother with such a set up.

PS:  Top tip:  When replying and quoting another User, if you click the ‘Text’ tab above the reply box you can make sure that the quotes are indented and labelled as above – then click ‘Visual’ again to check formatting before pressing ‘Submit’.  Keith did post about this but I think many users missed it!

[Guy]

first4580 wrote:

Thx a lot! I’ve ordered it

Great. When it arrives come back to the Forum and let us know your thoughts ?

[Guy]

As MM said, I too would go for PUC remote using Beo4 wherever possible.

first4580 wrote:

My BV 7 is ten year old, even this features a Apple remote in the puc menu, I think it would be little bit outdated (or no problem at all?)

My BV10-32 uses a 10 year old Apple TV PUC. It works fine for most functions, except that I can’t get it to automatically turn the ATV on. I have to press EXIT to turn the ATV on – simple enough. My Apple TV is the older, non-4k ATV4 HD version.

Two other points:

– Don’t forget that even if the Apple TV is not listed in your PUC list, you can teach the ATV to use other IR (non-B&O) commands. So you could select (for example) a Humax STB in your PUC list and teach the ATV to respond.

– The orginal (non-white circle) siri remote would control B&O TV volume, so maybe worth a try if you like the siri remote. If so, have a look here: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/34673/256188.aspx

[Guy]

pepps wrote:

Would you (or anyone else reading this) think it possible to have my (old) Beovision 6 refreshed with new PUC codes also? This is in my kitchen, it’s a lovely wall mounted unit but of course has to be scart based due to HDCP limitations. But it would be nice if I could hide the Youview box behind that and control it via PUC.

Hi Julian,

You could almost certainly have the PUC table in the BV6 updated. I think (but am not totally sure) that the PUC update process will be similar to the BV7, but it is worth warning off your dealer in case he needs to bring additional cables (or software) when he visits.

Does the YouView box have a SCART output? If so, that is probably fine for a 26 inch screen. However, if your BV6 has a DVI socket it may be better to use an hdmi to DVI interface in order to get a digital picture. As DVI carries only picture and not sound, you would also need an audio extractor, and you can read all about such setups in my thread here (it also mentions workarounds for the hdcp problem): https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/47367/349807.aspx

One disadvantage of using BV6’s DVI input is that in the older TVs you cannot then use PUC to control the STB connected to the DVI input. However, this is possible with the newer BV6s and BC6s. If you want to go this route check your BV6’s model number and I will look at what is possible.

One other aside: A set top box like the Apple TV is able to ‘learn’ the IR codes from other remotes. Thus if either of your TVs has any other boxes listed in the PUC table then you may be able to teach the Apple TV to use these codes, rather than getting the PUC table updated. There’s a bit of a knack to it and you may have to experiment with different PUC choices. I posted about this in an old thread somewhere and will try to find it!

EDIT: Here’s the thread that talks about teaching the Apple TV new IR commands: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/46321/334962.aspx#334962

[Guy]

For info, I found a photo to show my BV10-32’s DVB-HD module number and details:

[Guy]

Hi Tim, and welcome to Beoworld!

Can I just clarify exactly what procedure you followed to ‘activate remote control’ on the system?

The simplest way to  set the A.Option setting is to use the BL1000 remote.  First, check that your BL1000 is actually transmitting an IR signal by viewing the end with an iPhone selfie camera – you should see faint flashing when you press any buttons on the BL1000.

The with the Beosound Century at standby (red light showing, but turned off), point the BL1000 at the Beosound and press STANDY (Red Dot) then SOUND then 1 then STORE.  The digit ‘1’ should briefly be displayed on the Century’s screen. It should then respond to remote commands.

[Guy]

^ That looks to me like the setup for an analogue tuner. I don’t have time to look right in detail right now (have to go out for a while) but there should be a Tuner Setup menu where you can disable the analogue tuner, and make sure that the DVB tuner is switched on. This should then enable you to tune the digital tuner.

The manuals are still available from B&O support here: https://support.bang-olufsen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360041950191

[Guy]

pepps wrote:

I have the aerial connected to the ‘middle’ socket.

I just had a quick look at the manual and I think that’s the correct one, so your problem must be elsewhere. Do you have another TV that you could connect temporarily to check the rest of the antenna path?

Also, do you have the manual so that you can check that you are using the correct tuning method for the digital (rather than analogue) tuner? They are different menus.

[Guy]

I updated my BV10-32 from 0.1.8.9 to 0.1.9.9 shortly after I bought it, but didn’t notice any improvements/changes.  I vaguely remember seeing a  thread somewhere about what the improvements were supposed to be, but can’t find it any more.

I have no problem receiving HD programmes via terrestrial.  Are you sure that the antenna is connected to the DVB-HD input, rather than the old analogue one?

[Guy]

Hi again – sorry that did not work.

Here’s a thread from the archived forum that may be useful: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/16661/180744.aspx

To help with the dismantling etc there is a copy of the service manual on the main Beoworld site available to Silver and Gold members.

With regards to the wall bracket, I can’t really help but this eBay listing seems good value: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304457427422

[Guy]

Isthatthebeotime wrote:

Thank you trackbeo for your reply, I’m in the United Kingdom and with a provider called Virgin Media using their Hub 4, tried the suggestions with no prevail, seen a lot of people having the same issue in the UK on forums when switching from the old phone lines to VoIP, managed to resolve it tonight if anyone has the same issue in the future… – Unregister all phones – Unplug BeoLine PTSN – Plug back in – Register Phones Fixed the issue

Thanks for letting us know that the problem is solved. It’s useful to know that Beocoms connected direct to routers/hubs are still likely to work when UK switches off the analogue (copper wire) phone network in 2025. I hope to still be using my Beocom 6000s ?

[Guy]

brianlaing wrote:

Very low audio: If I turn the BeoCenter all the way up, I get sound. At normal listening levels, I get nothing. I can hear a cassette and CD playing fine through speakers and headphones, but way too low. The fuses are all okay. The lights all work as expected as does the remote. Switching between outputs works fine. Any suggestions where to look or what to do next?

This could possibly be a mute relay problem – maybe search the archived forum for ‘mute relay’ and look at the results for both BC9500 and 9000. One quick way to check is to plug the speakers into the speaker 2 sockets as these are not wired though the relay. If this works, the relay is probably the problem, and is quite easy to replace.

[Guy]

Have a look at this: https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69116-powerlink-aux-adaptor/4154-powerlink-aux-expander/

Although I have no experience of this device, it seems to do exactly what you require.  I have used other OneRemote products in the past and have been very impressed.

[Guy]

Welcome back Kiran!  Looking forward to seeing the rest of your progress!

Maybe add a link to your old thread so that people can see the extent of your project!

EDIT: Here it is ?: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/24942.aspx?PageIndex=1

EDIT 2:  But the photos on the archived thread are currently missing! (at least for me on Chrome and Safari)  Hopefully we’ll get those back in the near future when Keith has has a chance to look at the problem.

[Guy]

pepps wrote:

A final curiosity – I was wondering if the fact that my DVB module is a mark1 variant might hinder its ability to capture Freeview HD. I read in another post from Beoworld that FreesatHD was once the preferred tuner module.

That does indeed sound like the problem, and I just had some input from Keith that supports that theory. B&O were caught out with a last-minute change to the UK Freeview HD spec (requiring the T2 version), as explained in this thread (albeit for BV10): https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/3477/31419.aspx#31419

(I do find it strange that your DVB-HD module accepts the same SW updates (0.1.9.9) as my T2 version, however, which probably led to my confusion!)

If you still want Freeview HD, then I would suggest that adding one of the Humax Freeview HD tuners would be a far more cost effective solution than trying to fit a newer DVB-HD module. If you do decide to go this route, make sure that the B&O engineer installs the STB PUC code for whatever Humax box you purchase. In my experience the user interface (even with STB/PUC) will be far better than the B&O DVB module! I am a big fan of the Humax boxes, having used both Freesat and Freeview versions for years with my previous BV6s.

[Guy]

I recently noticed that some B&O equipment had crept into one of my wedding photos, from 1989.  It’s actually a ‘portable’ MCL2 box consisting of two CX50’s with an MCL2 transceiver above.  It was connected up to my in-laws’ house B&O system by the local B&O dealer.

[Guy]

matador wrote:

I must say that the day my BC6 will fail, it will be a big loss.

I used to think that, but my wife complained about the screen size so much that I bought a used BV10-32, and sold my BC6-26, BV6-26 and BC6-23. Life is now so much simpler with hdmi sockets and not having to worry about DVI connections, PC-buttons, audio extractors, hdcp etc ?

[Guy]

matador wrote:

I have Beocenter 6-26 so it may be work differently. AV3 is set to an input selectable with an hard key (V.MEM maybe, can’t say because I use a blind Beo6 now, sorry…). Then the HDTV option below is set to DVI. I remember that even when I was using a Beo4 It didn’t never required to use the LIST key. I even remember it was an AV Beo4 because I used that key to start the BV as a speaker with the picture muted. Hope this helps.

Yes this is the case with some of the newer BV/BC6-26s and 6-23s. Unfortunately the older 6-22’s connections menu does not allow you to assign DVI to one of the inputs, hence ovide will need to find a remote with the PC option.

[Guy]

I assume that your remote is like the left hand one in this photo, with an AV button in the middle of the second row of buttons.  If so, we tend to call it the ‘AV version’ and this will not allow PC to be added to the LIST button.  You cannot update the software, but theoretically you could replace the motherboard and buttons to change it into a newer version that allows you to add the PC version to LIST.  This is unlikely to be cost effective, hence I would simply look for a newer remote (any of the others pictured) or find an older Beolink1000 (BL1000) which will allow you to access PC by pressing SHIFT then STORE.

On UK eBay, newer Beo4s sell for between £30 and £50 and BL1000s approx £30.  Often you have to be a bit patient as sellers can ask for more.

EDIT:  There are Hotel versions of Beo4 with reduced functionality – they usually have less marked buttons that any of the ones pictured, and probably would not have the PC functionality.

[Guy]

Maybe still worth seeing if your Beo4 has the later software – it needs version 3.4 or later.

Have you tried adding PC to LIST ?  (Press Power and LIST together, then select ADD etc)

Otherwise best (only) option is to find a newer Beo4 or any BL1000.

[Author]

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