[Guy]

trackbeo wrote:

Not to mention, how else to record the “FM-Simulcast” onto the “VCR” audio track?

I made my edit as you were posting – great minds think alike!

[Guy]

Of the BM7000’s DIN sockets, TV/AUX, TAPE 1 and TAPE 2 are all fully-wired hence can provide AUX output – how else could you do tape-to-tape recordings*? ?

Only CD and PHONO are input only.

EDIT: Not forgetting of course the ability of the VX7000 VCR (connected via TV/AUX and a suitable Beovision) to record/playback up to 8 hours of ‘hifi’ audio using an E-240 VHS cassette in LP mode!  Life was much simpler then …

[Guy]

Guy wrote:

Here’s the full pinout diagram. For some reason I couldn’t take a pdf snapshot yesterday!

I was just thinking about this further and reckon that the SCART connections in the diagram are wrong. As far as I know, SCART audio out is pins 1 and 3 (not 2 and 6) and composite video out is pin 19 (not 20).  Hence I would hope that B&O’s cable would have the Brown, Black and Orange cables to SCART pins 1,3 and 19 respectively.

EDIT:  I just worked out the anomaly!  The diagram says ‘Pinout shown for 6271215’ which of course is B&O’s cable with a female SCART socket.  Hence connecting a further male to male SCART into the device would ‘correct’ the connections from input to output.  I can relax now! ?

[Guy]

Have a look at this thread: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/3595/32375.aspx#32375

Although the images do not currently appear, if you click on them and then amend the start of the ip address from ‘forum’ to ‘archivedforum2’ they will appear!

[Guy]

And the B&O part numbers:

(Click on images to enlarge and add clarity)

[Guy]

Here’s the full pinout diagram. For some reason I couldn’t take a pdf snapshot yesterday!

[Guy]

Cavscout wrote:

Does anyone know what could be wrong here ?

The cable could be wired for the signal to go in the opposite direction. Have a look at the diagrams here – schematics 7 and 8 may explain the problem (albeit you need to imagine a female DIN): https://www.hifi4all.dk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32157&PN=1

EDIT: The cable that you have bought is for an input into a DIN-equipped B&O amplifier – hence wrong direction. You need one like this: https://soundsheavenly.com/beogram-record-players/14-2244-beogram-to-non-bo-device-phono-pre-amp-receiver-amplifier-etc.html#/2-length-1m/60-grounding-internal_ground_link

[Guy]

Have a look at this thread: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/8855/78144.aspx#78144

The AV signal will be one-way (into the TV), but the second-to-last post suggests that you may be able to control the B&O devices (if AVL means datalink in this context*)

* EDIT: I had a look at the SCART to mini-AV pinout connections in the Beolink Handbook v1.9 (page 128) and it shows that SCART pin 8 (which is used for datalink) is mapped across to mini-AV pin 6 and is also labeled as AVL.  The part number of the official B&O cable (3m version) is 6271217 D.

 

 

[Guy]

Tignum wrote:

With a BeoMaster with built in pre-amp (some BeoMaster 4500s have that), you could skip a box (I am not sure if more recent BeoSounds that have a MasterLink connection can control BeoGrams through their AUX sockets). It will also require some persistence to program the BLC. But unless I oversee something I believe it could work.

As far as I know only the Ouverture (Beosound 4000) has both datalink and masterlink. But of course the Ouverture has no RIAA amplifier (which the 8002 needs).  If using a separate RIAA amp you would need to be sure that the datalink signal is passed to the correct datalink pin, as explained in this thread (see post by joeyboygolf): https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/41586.aspx

 

[Guy]

Hi Fabiqula,

It’s probably better to ‘bump’ (or just re-post) in your previous thread on this topic rather than starting another thread.  This just helps to keep the forum tidy!

Regards Guy

(If you do re-post there I will delete this thread)

[Guy]

Further to Nanoloop’s comment below – I believe that you will need the slightly thicker fully wired Mk2 version of the Powerlink cable in order to ensure correct on/off and muting function.

Here’s an example as supplied by the site sponsor: https://soundsheavenly.com/powerlink-8-pin-din-connection/23-319-powerlink-mk-2-compatible-black-8-pin-din-cable-with-fully-wired-8-cores.html

It’s worth checking with Steve that the Mk2 is correct – I am 99% sure ?

(EDIT:  Make sure that your disconnect the ML cable as it is not necessary in your configuration, and will probably stop the Passive from working correctly.  The Passive’s ML input is for the situation when it is powering speakers in a Link Room away from the main system, and in such a setup it would need the IR eye also.)

[Guy]

matador wrote:

does that mean you can use MCL IR sensors (square ones) with more modern hardware that need round sensors ?

I definitely used an old VX sensor as the IR input for a Beoport, and I remember making a short adaptor so that I could also connect it to a Beolink Passive or Active – see photo (adaptor lying on desk to the left):

But I have never owned any of the older MCL82 equipment hence can’t comment.  However, if you can determine the correct +ve, ground and ‘IR data’ connections in the MCL82 sensor (and if it also runs on a 5V supply) then it would be worth a try to see it it works as an IR sensor for newer equipment.

I may have posted more about IR sensors in the archived forum – hopefully it will be back soon!

[Guy]

Blokkenpiloot wrote:

Can someone tell me to which pins i should connect the wires from the MCL IR? i suppose it’ll be the Green: 5v, Brown: ground? and White: Data. But correct me if i’m wrong!

I made some notes when I used an MCL sensor as a Beoport IR sensor. The three connections that you require are:

Ground – Brown
IR Data – Yellow
+5v – Green

White is indeed a data connection but is used for relaying the other functions within the MCL sensor, particularly from pressing the buttons (eg Mute and Timer).

Hopefully you can work out the correct 5 pin DIN pins from having a look at the internal wiring of the loudspeaker switch.

IMPORTANT EDIT:  I have just realised that I actually used a VX sensor (similar to MCL but without Mute and Timer buttons) when I was experimenting.  The VX sensor only has three wires, hence IR data had to be Yellow by process of elimination!  I think that in your MCL sensor then ‘White’ may well be the data connection that you need.  Sorry for the confusion!

[Guy]

A great write up thanks!

I have a PM Mk1 in a box somewhere. I would have got rid of it, but I know that at some stage in the future I will find a use for it. If nothing else, the ability to ‘auto-sense’ a line-in input and use this to automatically turn on Beolabs will be useful. I can imagine using this to connect a non-B&O TV to Beolabs, for example.

The main downside for me is the lack of Airplay 2, but I suppose this isn’t really a problem if you connect it to a main room masterlinked source.

[Guy]

pepps wrote:

I’m curious though, if I activated the Beogram in the lounge from my office via MCL2A would that trigger the Beolink Converter to fire up my Beovision and consequently the speakers in my living room?

No it wouldn’t. The BM3500 would start up but it would be muted. The TV and its connected speakers should stay off.

pepps wrote:

This sounds very sensible but I wouldn’t know where to start with the set-up: Audio Auxilary Link to Beolink Converter to Masterlink to Beovision – I would have to split the ML cable and branch off to the office – would that confuse everything even more???

Yes you’d have to split the masterlink cable or use a ML junction box – I find that the ‘plug-in’ type is best to avoid cutting wires or cutting off plugs. In the office you’d then need a Passive with an ML-eye and of course some passive speakers. This system should work well.

pepps wrote:

The MCL2A option does seem simpler if my concerns above are unwarranted.

I agree -if you are happy with the volume limitations. There is however a way to get ‘pseudo-independent’ volume control in an MCL2 link room: Instead of an MCL2A you could add an MCL2AV, but this has Powerlink Outputs so you’d also need a Passive or MCL2P amplifier in order to get volume levels that can be different to the main room. If you do want independent volume then an ML extension is a better solution.

[Guy]

Yes an MCL2A would work fine; it connects to the BM3500’s speaker 2 sockets.

However, the MCL2A system has fixed volume (i.e same volume when listening in both main room and office). For independent volume control, you may wish to consider extending the ML part of your system into the office, and add a Beolink Passive instead.

[Guy]

I am not sure of your membership status but Gold and Silver Members are able to view the manuals. The Master Control Link handbook (listed first in this link as ‘Handbook’)) has sample setups similar to your proposals: https://beoworld.org/manuals_view.asp?pid=973

[Guy]

Sorry but I am not sure how it removes. I had a look at the on-site service manual and although there is an exploded parts diagram, the ‘dismantling’ section of the manual is missing. Hopefully there is someone else on the forum who can advise.

[Guy]

I don’t have a BG3000, but from experience with other belts/systems if you order the parts here they will be the correct type: https://www.beoparts-shop.com/product-category/beogram/

[Guy]

jvezina wrote:

I am responding here since it seems that the personal message facility has a bug since the sent/received messages show empty.

Slight thread hijack but I have just sent you a test message to see if PMs are working!

[Author]

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