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Further to Nanoloop’s comment below – I believe that you will need the slightly thicker fully wired Mk2 version of the Powerlink cable in order to ensure correct on/off and muting function.
Here’s an example as supplied by the site sponsor: https://soundsheavenly.com/powerlink-8-pin-din-connection/23-319-powerlink-mk-2-compatible-black-8-pin-din-cable-with-fully-wired-8-cores.html
It’s worth checking with Steve that the Mk2 is correct – I am 99% sure ?
(EDIT: Make sure that your disconnect the ML cable as it is not necessary in your configuration, and will probably stop the Passive from working correctly. The Passive’s ML input is for the situation when it is powering speakers in a Link Room away from the main system, and in such a setup it would need the IR eye also.)
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does that mean you can use MCL IR sensors (square ones) with more modern hardware that need round sensors ?
I definitely used an old VX sensor as the IR input for a Beoport, and I remember making a short adaptor so that I could also connect it to a Beolink Passive or Active – see photo (adaptor lying on desk to the left):
But I have never owned any of the older MCL82 equipment hence can’t comment. However, if you can determine the correct +ve, ground and ‘IR data’ connections in the MCL82 sensor (and if it also runs on a 5V supply) then it would be worth a try to see it it works as an IR sensor for newer equipment.
I may have posted more about IR sensors in the archived forum – hopefully it will be back soon!
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Can someone tell me to which pins i should connect the wires from the MCL IR? i suppose it’ll be the Green: 5v, Brown: ground? and White: Data. But correct me if i’m wrong!
I made some notes when I used an MCL sensor as a Beoport IR sensor. The three connections that you require are:
Ground – Brown
IR Data – Yellow
+5v – GreenWhite is indeed a data connection but is used for relaying the other functions within the MCL sensor, particularly from pressing the buttons (eg Mute and Timer).
Hopefully you can work out the correct 5 pin DIN pins from having a look at the internal wiring of the loudspeaker switch.
IMPORTANT EDIT: I have just realised that I actually used a VX sensor (similar to MCL but without Mute and Timer buttons) when I was experimenting. The VX sensor only has three wires, hence IR data had to be Yellow by process of elimination! I think that in your MCL sensor then ‘White’ may well be the data connection that you need. Sorry for the confusion!
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A great write up thanks!
I have a PM Mk1 in a box somewhere. I would have got rid of it, but I know that at some stage in the future I will find a use for it. If nothing else, the ability to ‘auto-sense’ a line-in input and use this to automatically turn on Beolabs will be useful. I can imagine using this to connect a non-B&O TV to Beolabs, for example.
The main downside for me is the lack of Airplay 2, but I suppose this isn’t really a problem if you connect it to a main room masterlinked source.
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I’m curious though, if I activated the Beogram in the lounge from my office via MCL2A would that trigger the Beolink Converter to fire up my Beovision and consequently the speakers in my living room?
No it wouldn’t. The BM3500 would start up but it would be muted. The TV and its connected speakers should stay off.
This sounds very sensible but I wouldn’t know where to start with the set-up: Audio Auxilary Link to Beolink Converter to Masterlink to Beovision – I would have to split the ML cable and branch off to the office – would that confuse everything even more???
Yes you’d have to split the masterlink cable or use a ML junction box – I find that the ‘plug-in’ type is best to avoid cutting wires or cutting off plugs. In the office you’d then need a Passive with an ML-eye and of course some passive speakers. This system should work well.
The MCL2A option does seem simpler if my concerns above are unwarranted.
I agree -if you are happy with the volume limitations. There is however a way to get ‘pseudo-independent’ volume control in an MCL2 link room: Instead of an MCL2A you could add an MCL2AV, but this has Powerlink Outputs so you’d also need a Passive or MCL2P amplifier in order to get volume levels that can be different to the main room. If you do want independent volume then an ML extension is a better solution.
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Yes an MCL2A would work fine; it connects to the BM3500’s speaker 2 sockets.
However, the MCL2A system has fixed volume (i.e same volume when listening in both main room and office). For independent volume control, you may wish to consider extending the ML part of your system into the office, and add a Beolink Passive instead.
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I am not sure of your membership status but Gold and Silver Members are able to view the manuals. The Master Control Link handbook (listed first in this link as ‘Handbook’)) has sample setups similar to your proposals: https://beoworld.org/manuals_view.asp?pid=973
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Sorry but I am not sure how it removes. I had a look at the on-site service manual and although there is an exploded parts diagram, the ‘dismantling’ section of the manual is missing. Hopefully there is someone else on the forum who can advise.
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I don’t have a BG3000, but from experience with other belts/systems if you order the parts here they will be the correct type: https://www.beoparts-shop.com/product-category/beogram/
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I am responding here since it seems that the personal message facility has a bug since the sent/received messages show empty.
Slight thread hijack but I have just sent you a test message to see if PMs are working!
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I am not sure what exactly is broken: Do you mean the contrast screen of the TV unit, or the sliding glass panels on the front of the AV9000 Master Control Panel, which looks a bit like the Beosound Ouverture?
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Good morning and welcome to Beoworld!
Unfortunately the link/picture that you attached did not work, so we can’t see exactly what hdmi to SCART converter you are using.
However, some of the cheaper converters of this type can be quite unreliable, and it can take a bit of experimentation to get good results.
You say that you are powering the converter via an iPhone charger block; if this is the smaller type then they only supply approx 5W which may not be enough power to supply the converter. Try a different adaptor, perhaps the iPad version which supplies at least 12W.
Otherwise, maybe experiment with connecting to the TV’s AV2 SCART connection, but be careful to keep a note of its current settings so that you do not muck up your decoder!
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I too am an 80s/90s B&O fan! Two things I wouldn’t sell:
- My spare Beolink 5000 – I need it for when first one fails! ?
- My white Beogram 6500 – won here on Beoworld in the Dec 19 Xmas Prize Draw, and previously owned by Sir Roger Moore of 007 fame! It’s actually in a box at the moment whilst we are in a rental, but will be back out as soon as house prices crash and we buy somewhere new to live!
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I am assuming I can ask for ‘the most recent list of PUC codes’ as long as I check the specific codes I need are included? (I’ve never had a B&O home visit before.)
I am not sure if there is a limit to the number of PUC codes that can be uploaded so best to check with the dealer. I have also never had a home visit; my first BV6 was purchased from Darren of Timeless AV and he uploaded my requested codes before sending me the TV.
The Youview box does have a scart output and I think I’ll have to stick with that, both for the reason you highlighted above regarding PUC use but also because my humble BV6 is an old one. It’s a type 9202 running SW2.3.
Yes I would stick with SCART – the type 9202 is a BV6-22 so with that screen size SCART will be absolutely fine.
When I connect a Firestick via a Prozor HDMI 3-in-1-out with audio extractor and HDMI/DVI adapter it pops up a thin blue strip across the screen stating that no DVI input can be found or that the device is incompatible
That does sound like an HDCP problem. Some of the hdmi audio extractors remove the hdcp, but if you are happy with SCART then I wouldn’t bother trying to investigate further. HDCP is a bit hit and miss, and mostly the latter!
Now what is interesting here is that although there are many posts to the contrary, when I first connected my BV7-40mk5 to this little BV6 with a masterlink cable I was able to see and hear picture and sound from the inbuilt terrestrial tuner, the bluray player (yes) and the firestick (connected by HDMI to the BV7).
The picture was not high definition, of course, but the image and accompanying sound was there.
Now if only a 25m long masterlink cable wasn’t so expensive I would be tempted to set up a link system from the living room to the kitchen.I did find an option within the BV7’s settings which provides the option to turn HDCP off for use with projectors, but at the time of testing this the feature was not activated. I wondered if this may have been the enabler which allowed various digital pictures to be shared with the little BV6 screen.
I also discovered something similar. I connected my BV10-32 to one of my BV6s with masterlink and co-ax cables, and it was able to distribute the picture even from Freeview HD channels, and from the Apple TV connected to hdmi. I agree that there are many posts that say that the distribution of digital sources is not possible! You could look out for second hand ML cable, but to be honest unless I wanted further functionality (eg CD and radio from a main room to the BV6) I probably wouldn’t bother with such a set up.
PS: Top tip: When replying and quoting another User, if you click the ‘Text’ tab above the reply box you can make sure that the quotes are indented and labelled as above – then click ‘Visual’ again to check formatting before pressing ‘Submit’. Keith did post about this but I think many users missed it!
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Thx a lot! I’ve ordered it
Great. When it arrives come back to the Forum and let us know your thoughts ?
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As MM said, I too would go for PUC remote using Beo4 wherever possible.
My BV 7 is ten year old, even this features a Apple remote in the puc menu, I think it would be little bit outdated (or no problem at all?)
My BV10-32 uses a 10 year old Apple TV PUC. It works fine for most functions, except that I can’t get it to automatically turn the ATV on. I have to press EXIT to turn the ATV on – simple enough. My Apple TV is the older, non-4k ATV4 HD version.
Two other points:
– Don’t forget that even if the Apple TV is not listed in your PUC list, you can teach the ATV to use other IR (non-B&O) commands. So you could select (for example) a Humax STB in your PUC list and teach the ATV to respond.
– The orginal (non-white circle) siri remote would control B&O TV volume, so maybe worth a try if you like the siri remote. If so, have a look here: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/34673/256188.aspx
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Would you (or anyone else reading this) think it possible to have my (old) Beovision 6 refreshed with new PUC codes also? This is in my kitchen, it’s a lovely wall mounted unit but of course has to be scart based due to HDCP limitations. But it would be nice if I could hide the Youview box behind that and control it via PUC.
Hi Julian,
You could almost certainly have the PUC table in the BV6 updated. I think (but am not totally sure) that the PUC update process will be similar to the BV7, but it is worth warning off your dealer in case he needs to bring additional cables (or software) when he visits.
Does the YouView box have a SCART output? If so, that is probably fine for a 26 inch screen. However, if your BV6 has a DVI socket it may be better to use an hdmi to DVI interface in order to get a digital picture. As DVI carries only picture and not sound, you would also need an audio extractor, and you can read all about such setups in my thread here (it also mentions workarounds for the hdcp problem): https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/47367/349807.aspx
One disadvantage of using BV6’s DVI input is that in the older TVs you cannot then use PUC to control the STB connected to the DVI input. However, this is possible with the newer BV6s and BC6s. If you want to go this route check your BV6’s model number and I will look at what is possible.
One other aside: A set top box like the Apple TV is able to ‘learn’ the IR codes from other remotes. Thus if either of your TVs has any other boxes listed in the PUC table then you may be able to teach the Apple TV to use these codes, rather than getting the PUC table updated. There’s a bit of a knack to it and you may have to experiment with different PUC choices. I posted about this in an old thread somewhere and will try to find it!
EDIT: Here’s the thread that talks about teaching the Apple TV new IR commands: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/46321/334962.aspx#334962
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For info, I found a photo to show my BV10-32’s DVB-HD module number and details:
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Hi Tim, and welcome to Beoworld!
Can I just clarify exactly what procedure you followed to ‘activate remote control’ on the system?
The simplest way to set the A.Option setting is to use the BL1000 remote. First, check that your BL1000 is actually transmitting an IR signal by viewing the end with an iPhone selfie camera – you should see faint flashing when you press any buttons on the BL1000.
The with the Beosound Century at standby (red light showing, but turned off), point the BL1000 at the Beosound and press STANDY (Red Dot) then SOUND then 1 then STORE. The digit ‘1’ should briefly be displayed on the Century’s screen. It should then respond to remote commands.
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^ That looks to me like the setup for an analogue tuner. I don’t have time to look right in detail right now (have to go out for a while) but there should be a Tuner Setup menu where you can disable the analogue tuner, and make sure that the DVB tuner is switched on. This should then enable you to tune the digital tuner.
The manuals are still available from B&O support here: https://support.bang-olufsen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360041950191
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