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• Very few radio stations work on the BeoPort, and even those which work can’t be relied upon 100%. Even a “dependable” station appears to play from first selection only about 3/4ths of the time. If the “dependable” station doesn’t start, going to another station and coming back will usually work after a couple of times. Sometimes it will start on its own after a few minutes.
Have you checked that windows/beoport muting problem mentioned in the other Beoport thread? Basically every time you change station the BeoNetRadio level is Muted in the volume mixer – I have to go to the volume mixer and unmute each time I change radio station. See below (you can just see the red mute symbol – click the photo to enlarge):
• The radios are sometimes labeled differently on BS 5 vs BP. One BP-working station I found had two different label endings on the BP (only the 1st worked) whereas on BS 5 the “two” stations had exact same labeling and same audio, so on BS 5 it appeared to be a repetition of the same station.
Did you refresh the radio database when you reconnected the Beoport? It may be that the BM5 and Beoport are using different (i.e earlier/later) N.Radio database downloads. The latest Beoport N.Radio update was dated 2021-11-15.
I am not sure how to update the BM5 radio database, but on the PC running Beoport you can navigate to C:\Program Files\Bang & Olufsen\BeoPort and look for a file called UpdateNotifier.exe
Double click to run a database update, whereupon you get this message:
And see if the radio stations are now consistent with the BM5.
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Have you tried without pressing GO after SHIFT shows?
i.e: Just press LIST until SHIFT shows in the display, then press 9 0 2 5 8
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Congratulations Dillen, RustyFerguson and Beocool so far ….
(PS: Mulled wine is all gone, drinking Waitrose St Emilion ce soir)
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Sadly, the cable I was waiting on did not arrive on time for the Beogram so I ended up buying some cheapo stuff from Amazon. The Line-in volume is significanlty lower than streamed music, I have the volume way past 50. It sounds alright but I little muddy to my ears.
What Beogram are you using? It may be that you need an RIAA pre-amp before the connection to the Theatre. This would explain the low level and ‘muddiness’.
(I think that in an earlier post you said that you previously used a Beomaster 6000 with the Beogram, which would have had a pre-amp/RIAA stage built in.)
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Hi gerard,
I deleted that previous response because the User (now blocked) added a spam link.
Did the TV suddenly start behaving like that (in which case it may be a fault), or is there a possibility that someone has gone into the Picture or Service Menu and adjusted the settings?
If you want to look in the Service Menu, the following is from the Service Manual:
The Service Menu must be activated while the TV SETUP menu is displayed. From
this initial state, the Service Menu is activated in the following way:
Beo4: the Service Menu is activated by pressing 0 0 GO within 3 s.Be careful to note any settings before adjusting (maybe take a photo). You may also want to try resetting the TV to factory settings, which is one of the options in Service Mode.
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As far as I know (from the Service Manual) type numbers simply relate to the country of use (and corresponding supply voltage):
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isn’t the decoding handled by windows media player though?
I am not sure. I think I will just wait and see what happens.
To be honest most of my radio listening is on good old FM, which isn’t due to be switched off until 2030, so I am good for a few years yet!
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Do you have a link to an example of the Playmaker?
Presume you mean a link to one for sale? There’s nothing on UK eBay at the moment. This one’s in Hungary: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225263989300
I have seen them go for as little as £50 on UK eBay in the past – as always with eBay the trick is to be very patient! I usually save an eBay search and add email alerts.
By the way, do you know of any DIY kits, or boards that I could use for self-build integrations?
Sorry – none that I am aware of.
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A further thought – you could also use a Playmaker. There’s auto-sense on the aux in socket that will trigger connected Powerlink. Playmakers can sometimes be bought quite cheaply on the second hand market.
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I today had a response from B&O about the BBC radio stream:
We regret to inform that when BBC changes their streaming codecs, the Beoplayer will no longer be able to support it. We apologize for the inconvenience caused.
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How to place the essence in IR mode?
To use Beo4, you must set the audio system in A.OPT 1.
To set A.OPT 1 with Beo4…
Point the Beo4 remote control at the IR-receiver of the audio system.– While holding down the • (red dot) button, press LIST.
– Let go of both buttons.
– Press LIST repeatedly until OPTION? is shown in the Beo4 display and press GO.
– Press LIST repeatedly until A.OPT is shown in the Beo4 display and then press the number button 1EDIT: Info from here: https://support.bang-olufsen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360041742571-How-do-I-activate-sources-using-BeoRemote-One-or-Beo4-
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Maybe email b&o asking for the stream to be updated for the beoport – Im guessing windows media player can play these streams as it appears HLS is nothing new?
Thanks Rob – I’ll drop them a line and see what happens. I will report back here.
Everything is now pretty much working apart from the strange muting on change of radio station (as mentioned in the other Beoport thread) so I am happy despite these limitations.
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Something like this would probably do what you require: https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69116-powerlink-aux-adaptor/4154-powerlink-aux-expander/
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Maybe try Steve at Sounds Heavenly at his sponsor link below ⬇
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It’s great to hear that my Beoport/Beoplayer investigations have been useful! Apologies also to the OP, but he hasn’t been seen since 2 Oct so I hope I haven’t frightened him off with all my ramblings. To be honest much of my input has been to preserve the ‘knowledge base’ as some of these devices get older, and it’s great to see that XavierItzmann is looking at novel ways to use the Beoport to solve a particular problem – namely providing an ML audiomaster. Please keep posting back with your findings and suggestions.
My Beoport is back in the cupboard for the time being. Today’s task is to dismantle (and hopefully fix) my 16-year-old Brother printer that is malfunctioning – typically I am too tight to buy a new one!!
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Do you means the round one with timer button (or the earlier rectangular MCL sensor, with timer button). EDIT: I just read this thread and realised that you are talking about the newer round one!
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/20517/168404.aspx
When you say that you ‘connected the cables as described’, did you replace the DIN connector with an RJ45 plug, and if so what wiring scheme did you use? That earlier thread suggests that if you just stick with IR data, 5v and Ground then the IR will work, but not the buttons.
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I bought mine from here but it was 12 years ago so I am not sure if it is still available:
https://www.avaservices.co.uk/
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I have attached a copy of the instructions that were included with the repair kit – they may be useful. PCB5 is the display PCB that you have rotated backwards in your picture. I assume that you disconnected the ribbon connector that you can see in your picture?
I can’t remember how far I dismantled the keyboard, but I think I managed to get to the stage where it looked like this (picture from internet):
The simplest solution would be to replace this complete piece from your other Ouverture., if that is in good condition. (EDIT: I think the 4 light units will unclip to save re-soldering if you swap the panels over)
However, as it says in the attached instructions, the official repair kit requires your to cut off those 8 plastic buttons so that you can remove and replace the foil. The repair kit then comes with 8 very small self-tapping screws to replace the plastic buttons and hold the keyboard together.
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