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The PC socket can also be used as a line-out (fixed volume).
The pins were listed back here: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/15997/261799.aspx
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The user guide found…. ….here might help. Beware – almost all BS4/DAB are DAB only, no DAB+ MM
Not a problem in UK where the majority of stations are still DAB.
(assuming OP is in UK)
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Tried that it is finding 120 odd stations but I don’t know how to find them or add them. thanks for your help much appreciated
Have you tried following the advice on page 15 of the manual? As follows:
If DAB tuning results in too many stations for the Program List …
> The available stations appear in the STORE PROGRAM menu.
> Turn the wheel to move between stations.
> Press GO to store a station.
> If the menu is empty, or if you do not want to store more stations, press EXIT to leave the menu.Location: Warwickshire, UK
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I once removed the stickiness from most of the interior and centre console of a Mk4 VW Golf – that was mostly plastic underneath. I remember using IPA and finding quite a few advice videos on the subject, such as this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbrznLcQwNg
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A further thought about the ‘three wire’ MCL sensor timer button: I suppose I could test using my BV10-32 as the source, but I am never quite sure about timer setups when initiated from the TV. Might be worth a try while I have the cables out, but not today.
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Apropos Beolink Active I just got a good deal on three of the including IR sensors and some ML cable and not related adapter cables.
A very useful acquisition and I look forward to more experiments including with the PC input!
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I can’t access my MCL sensors at the moment to try them, but maybe later in the week (the BC9500 goes back on Friday). I do want to test out the MCL button Timer function as raised by madskp earlier in the thread.
So I just carried out the sensor test using an MCL sensor with just three wires connected to the BL Active via a terminal block and adaptor. Brown->Gnd, Green->5V and White->IR data. (I initially confused myself and had Yellow to IR data, which is wrong and did nothing!)
Anyway, it worked fine as a sensor (light coming on with IR transmission), and the mute button worked. However, despite the Timer light going on/off, I could not get it to initiate when the BC9500 was programmed with a timer event. So it looks like the timer does not work with just the three wire connections in this setup.
The BC9500 goes back tomorrow, so no time to investigate further sadly (unless I unbox my BC9500 ?)
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Great find – here’s the page from the Beolink Handbook v1-9:
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Quick thread drift, but whilst the ML cable was deployed across the hallway I couldn’t resist a quick check of my BL3500 and BL2000 together with the BC9500/BL1611 combo.
All worked as expected, although it took a while for the BC9500 ‘time’ to be displayed in the BL3500 display (at first I thought it may be a limitation of the BL1611 converter), but after resetting the time on the BC9500 it suddenly appeared.
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I just tried a few sensor tests (albeit with BL Active rather than Passive) whilst I have my mother in law’s BC9500 to play with as a source.
I connected BC9500 TV/AUX to BL1611 to ML cable to BL Active in another room. As usual, I used A2 Active as temporary Beolab.
Tested first with ML sensor – gives full functionality including buttons and Timer as expected:
Then tried with VX Sensor via 3.5mm to DIN adaptor. This gave full IR functionality, with just an LED indication when receiving an IR command. There are no buttons (even dummy ones) to test on this sensor:
Then with BS3 Sensor via the same 3.5mm to DIN adaptor. This gave full IR functionality, but there was no LED indication even when receiving an IR command. The buttons were non-functional, but of course only 3 of the possible 5 connections are made:
I can’t access my MCL sensors at the moment to try them, but maybe later in the week (the BC9500 goes back on Friday). I do want to test out the MCL button Timer function as raised by madskp earlier in the thread.
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Great project but a frustrating problem!
I had a similar problem with DVI but in my case I was trying to feed an Apple TV (hdmi) into a BC6-26 DVI input – the picture would ‘blink’ every few minutes.
One thing you could try (although it didn’t work in my setup) is a ‘EDID Emulator’. I don’t know or understand much about them so you’d have to do your own research, but they are used to solve display incompatibilities in many applications and may be worth a try if you have exhausted other options.
Perhaps others have better knowledge of the use of BS3 with alternative (non-B&O) panels and can help further.
Good luck – please let us know how you get on.
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Great news – thanks for letting us know!
To be honest we should have solved this a bit quicker and Matador’s first ‘check adapter wiring’ was effectively the solution. I suspect that there is a short between pin 4 (right line out) and 2 (gnd) in the adaptor DIN plug. Mind you, if your aux cable is just a input (to the DIN end) then pins 1 and 4 should not be connected.
EDIT: Added Aux pin diagram below just to be clear – the image shown is when viewing the pins in the plug: (and I doubt that your adaptor has pins 6 and 7 as they are not needed)
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Didn’t think of that. Unfortunately I still only hear one channel
I should have said earlier, when you did that headphone test, was the AUX connection disconnected also? If not, try headphones with both PL and Aux disconnected.
If you have a masterlink connection, try unplugging that as well. Check there is no dirt/debris in the ML socket (a small wire could short out the Right channel).
If a headphone channel is still missing then I think there is an internal problem. As far as I know there’s no simple fix (such as fuses) so you may need to look for a specialist.
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One other thing – try the headphones whilst both Powerlink speakers are unplugged (from the BeoSystem PL sockets).
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It doesn’t appear to be a cable issue. When I switch the speakers to „L“ and turn the volume up I can hear the channel faintly. Looks like it might be in the amp.
Have you tried headphones? If they work L and R correctly you cannot yet rule out cable problems.
How are the speakers connected? Does each have it’s own PL cable or are they daisy chained?
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Thanks for the hint. There is no sound coming out when the switches are set to „R“. Guess that means the right channel is defekt. Is there a fuse that I could check?
You need to check point 1, 3 and 4 of Matador’s suggestions first and report back!
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So I have spent quite a few hours getting the BC9500 up and running.
I first re-stuck the upper glass panel. I used the ‘gluing’ technique as this has worked well for me in the past. I cleaned up the panel and plastic surrounds, leaving the old 2-sided tape in-situ and merely brushing off the loose bits of perished tape. I then placed the glass panel face down on a totally flat surface. I fixed the two end (U shaped) pieces of plastic first, because this enables you to then centre the middle strips and leave an equal small gap each side. I simply spread a thin bead of Loctite Super Glue Gel along the centre of the tape on the reverse of the glass panel, and then firmly pressed the plastic strips into place, holding each for about 30 seconds. When you do the centre strips it is important to note that they are not interchangeable – the one closest to the centre panel has a chamfer along its edge.
Here’s the glue that I used – I needed both 3g tubes to glue the complete upper glass:
I then moved onto the CD door strings. First I tried simply replacing the broken plastic slider from the earlier photo. Although I managed this successfully, the door would stick when opening and closing. I then removed both strings and gave the entire system a good clean – rollers, drive shaft and sliding grooves. Upon re-assembly it still stuck!
Whilst observing the door opening and closing with the BeoCenter in the service position, I then noticed that the upper CD string was fouling on the drive shaft. I think the string was sticky/greasy (perhaps it had been ‘lubricated’?) and was sticking to the drive shaft. Basically it couldn’t slide axially, hence the three loops moved to the outer edge of the drive shaft and then started wrapping over itself and jamming.
Anyway, I decided to replace the strings and thankfully this cured the fault. The door is still slower than the tape door but this is to be expected because the door also moves the CD clamper mechanism in and out. I also cleaned and lubricated this mechanism to make the door’s task easier.
Many thanks to Beitie for the inspiration and also for his invaluable tip about painters tape which is very useful for holding ends of the string in tension whilst re-threading the rollers.
One other thing I found useful was using a small bulldog clip to hold one of the sliders in place whist re-threading the string on the other side. You can see it in this photo:
Also, just as I was finishing my wife noticed the difficulty of the task, went upstairs to her craft box and came back with these ‘crossing lock’ tweezers, which would have been very useful several hours earlier to move the tiny knotted ends of the drive cord into place! I will use these next time!
Anyway, it’s now all re-assembled and up and running, but I will test it over the next few days before taking back to my mother-in-law. I am using the A2 Active as a speaker connected to one of the Powerlink sockets.
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Excellent – control of a datalink device from NL without a datalink audiomaster! I am sure NL users who want remote control of a BeoGram turntable will be very interested.
I am looking forward to the new BLC thread. I did ask a few NL/ML converter questions here, so perhaps you’ll be able to provide new information once you investigate more: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/app-control-of-masterlink-products-using-beolink-converter-nl-ml/
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Hpefully it wasn’t all disapointment looking through the boxes?
Not at all! I found lots of useful stuff that I look forward to unwrapping again when we eventually find a house to buy. I am not sure whether I have more phones or remotes …
Anyway, off to the pub! ???
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