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Setting the IR eye to option 1, and covering the BM5500’s IR eye full control is possible.
That’s very interesting. It maybe worth trying the MCL sensor connected directly to pin 6 of your Beocord 3500, or even a turntable!
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Wouldn’t it be possible to transfer the display from a BEO4 with another defect, or are the different versions of the display?
Yes I have often swapped components between different versions of Beo4 to fix faults – they share most components (apart from main PCB and the keyboard/dome foil for the NAVI version). Trouble is that I cannot resist then buying new spares to fix the leftover broken donor ones – it’s like an addiction!
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the title reads “AppleTV 4K dolby vision issues” ; are you seeing something different?
It does now, after I changed it! ?
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The “lead” is what remains of an original indoor AM antenna.
In reality merely a plug with a 3m lead.Here, most of the plug has gone missing, leaving only yhe lead and the pin.
Thanks Martin – in that case I will put it in a box with my other AM antennas! ?
EDIT: Thanks for the photo. I just went to said box (actually a tin) and found that exact antenna complete with plug, albeit not in a bag. So why do some of my other AM antennas (possibly not B&O) also have a wire connected to the second (earth?) pin?
EDIT 2: I think it may be because the others are actually FM antennas??
EDIT 3: I think this useful page answers most of my questions! https://technical.beoworld.org/Aerial/default.asp
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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We got one of these video terminals at home when I was a kid, and I remember wondering what the Print button was for. Now I may even wonder more that it it equal to the PC command. What equipement was it for?
According to this thread:https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/38215/317414.aspx
… it was supplied with the with the LX2800 and 2500 TVs amongst others. And the PRINT button may have been for printing out Teletext, although B&O never supplied a printer.
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I can’t really add much but have you worked your way through the suggestions on the Apple site here: https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT208074#:
Also I have changed the title of your thread to say ‘dolby’ instead of ‘don’t’. I assume it was an autocorrect typo ?
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I just got hold of a pair of remotes, both listed as ‘spares or repair.
I have spent the last couple of hours stripping them down, removing the dirt and grease and re-assembling. As expected (hoped?) they both work perfectly, but I thought I’d post ‘before and after photos’ for those who want to zoom in and see the grime. Rest assured that the inside was far worse than the outside, and took quite a bit of hot water and scrubbing to remove the grease!
After:
As you can see they clean up quite well as long as you are careful not to damage the rubber keyboards. The trick is to remove/assemble when they are warm, and a hairdryer may help. There was a bit of battery acid in the Video Terminal but a little dab of vinegar dissolved this.
The Video Terminal is interesting. Initially I tried to test the AUX and TAPE button with my BeoSound 1, but then realised that it will only control video equipment, hence AUX is actually V.AUX (or DTV2) and TAPE is V.TAPE (or V.MEM). I also discovered from an old thread that PRINT sends the PC command.
Anyway it will go nicely with my Audio Terminal in a future setup.
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The tape deck problem could well be the belt which is well worth replacing anyway. You can get new belts from Beoparts but it is important to check which of the two types of tape deck is fitted – this is explained on the Beoparts site.
With regard to cleaning the outside, I always fight the temptation to use any chemicals such as Isopropyl Alcohol! I would first dust the unit using a gentle, clean feather duster, plus maybe an air duster (compressed air can) for any groves. Then simply use water and a new, clean microfibre cloth. I use a small spray bottle to spray a very fine water ‘mist’ over the BeoCenter and then wipe very gently until dry. Don’t be tempted to press hard to remove marks – simply repeat the gentle wiping process until they fade.
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Is it worth me trying this:
The with the Beosound Century at standby (red light showing, but turned off), point the BL1000 at the Beosound and press STANDY (Red Dot) then SOUND then 1 then STORE. The digit ‘1’ should briefly be displayed on the Century’s screen. It should then respond to remote commands.
That is simply the A.OPT setting process when using a BL1000 remote to carry out the process that I described for the Beo4. It sends exactly the same command to the Century.
Your problem seems to be the Century, not the remote.
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ok thanks so much for all your help, is this the right remote for the Century ??
Yes the one that you pictured is a fairly modern Beo4 remote and will usually work fine with the Century.
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Yes the display on the remote stays on unless the batteries are removed.
I think the IR sensor on the Century is faulty – here’s a thread about repair:
https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/bo-beosound-century-remote-control-troubleshooting/
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Thanks – I have got it to say link off as it was on but still doesn’t work, is there a way to reset the remote or anything ?
No it should work as it is. I think that the remote is fine.
If the ‘A.OPT’ setting procedure that I first mentioned does not work then sadly Dillen’s repair suggestion may be required.
Did the previous remote work OK before you lost it?
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If my earlier suggestion doesn’t work, there is one other possibility: the Beo4 could be set up in permanent ‘link’ mode, which will not work correctly with the Century.
To check this:
On the Beo4, press Standby (red dot) and List together
Press List till CONFIG appears
Using remote keyboard, enter 2 0 0 2 , the display will read LINK ON (or LINK OFF)
Press Exit
If necessary, repeat the process to get the remote to say ‘LINK OFF’, which is the option that you require.
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Thanks so much Guy, do you mean do this on the remote or the stereo itself as I tried it and it still doesn’t work, I checked the IR an that works ok.
Thanks for all your help
Yes you do this on the remote. The Century itself should be at standby while you press the button sequence on the remote.
Thanks but the remote seems to be working with the camera test, am I correct in saying that the BEO 4 is the right remote for the Century ?
Yes the Beo4 should work fine with the Century.
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
The Century may be in A.OPT 0, where it will not respond to IR commands.
To resolve this:
Turn to standby/off.
On the Beo4, press the POWER button and LIST together. Then press LIST until OPTION is shown, press GO (centre button), and then press LIST to show A.OPT. Then press 1. The power light on the Century may blink to show that it has been accepted. (EDIT: The digit ‘1’ should briefly be shown on the Century’s display)
Remote control should then work.
If the above procedure does not work, check that the Beo4 is actually transmitting IR signals by viewing the end of the remote with a mobile phone camera (selfie camera if iPhone). You should see the IR transmitters glowing when buttons are pressed.
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
Are you sure that the cables are not faulty? Have you tried swapping them out/around and/or trying both powerlink sockets?
If you have a multimeter, check the continuity of the PL cables – pin 6 is data and pin 7 is data ground. Make sure that pin 6 isn’t shorted to one of the other connections.
It’s also worth disconnecting anything else from the BeoSound (Masterlink and Aux socket) to rule those out as part of the problem.
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Sorry. I forgot to mention that pin 6 and 7 on the CD connector on the MCL2AV is connected with a little piece of wire by a former owner. Therefore I could just connect the Beogram 2000 even though it has datalink on pin 6
Makes sense – thanks for the clarification.
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A further thought:
For datalink, we had discovered that Tape and CD use pin 7, whereas Phono uses pin 6, unless RIAA is built in (to the Beogram) in which case it uses pin 7 also. We had also thought that the MCL2AV circuit diagram was incorrectly showing datalink to Tape/CD pin 6 instead of 7.
From the service manual, your BG2000 uses pin 6 for datalink.
So does this mean that pins 6 and 7 are connected inside the MCL2AV, or has your BG2000 been modified?
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Great news – I’m very glad that it worked and many thanks for letting us know.
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Setup: BL3500 -ML – 1611 – datalink – MCL2AV – datalink – BG2000 (connected to CD input) Control og the BG2000 was fully possible from the BL3500 with the use of CD command.
Excellent – a very useful configuration! I am sure that I will be making use of this in the future with my BG6500 (which of course already has built in RIAA/pre-amp). Out of interest, could you also control it using PHONO (N.RADIO)?
Also looking forward to seeing this connected to the BLC to the NL world beyond!
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