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LCD leakage is starting to spread between the glass sheets now anyway – time to give up and open a beer! ??
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Wouldn’t it be possible to repair the screen? I don’t remember well how they’re made and what cause the leaking, but if it can be removed and the glass repaired, that would made a better remote that one with a missing line of pixel or very dimmed digits.
Looks like thin sheets of glass sandwiches together. I can peel the silver foil off the back and it seems that the rear sheet of glass is broken – this must have taken the shock when it was dropped or whatever.
I hesitate to try heating to separate the glass because I may well render it useless. I do have a tatty Beo4 (with lines missing from the display) on my desk (to answer random questions on Beoworld!), so I will probably fit in into that so that I can read the text more easily. If I can find some shiny black material I may blank off the area above and below the text to hide the damage.
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I bought a ‘spares or repair’ Beo4 on eBay and the only fault was a damaged screen – it displayed fine but had damage in the corner. Despite arriving loose in a jiffy bag, I was surprised how ‘new’ the Beo4 felt on arrival, with a nice positive click when pressing buttons.
On opening to replace the screen I noticed the test date on the chip – if I am interpreting it correctly it’s only 6 months old! Also ‘Teszt’ is Hungarian for ‘Test’ – is that where they are now made?
Picture below also shows the damaged screen and the 5.5mm socket that I keep in my desk draw so I don’t have to keep going out to the garage to get my socket set when fixing remotes!
I am not really sure about the cost effectiveness of such repairs: The Beo4 was about £20 incl P&P, a new screen about £25 and a new battery cover £4. In the past I have bought equally nice condition Beo4s for much less than £50, even a V.AUX version. Never mind, there’s a certain satisfaction in such a simple repair!
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Maybe – even if it is in danish – this thread from the late Peter Pan could be of interest for the viewers of this thread.
Thanks MM – I had seen the first part of the thread about SW variants for traditional Beo4s, but not the useful ‘Navi specific’ info.
It would appear that APPLETV was added (along with other ‘soft’ functions) in early 2013 with SW8.0.
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I earlier worked out a few Beo4 NAVI equivalent IR commands:
- APPLETV is the same as V.AUX2
- USB is the same as A.TAPE2/N.MUSIC
- DOCK is the same as PHONO/N.RADIO
(Where APPLETV*, USB or DOCK can be added to the LIST button)
* APPLETV is not available on all Beo4 Navis.
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So I just did another test of my DVD1 connected to the BL1611 AAL socket. I left the audio pins at 3&5 (video source) and the SCART ‘data’ pin 8 to AAL pin 6. I used BL3500 as link speaker, in L.OPT 6.
As before, selecting DVD did nothing, although (once manually started) a long press of the power button still turned the DVD1 off as before.
I then tried all other video and audio sources (including CD), and including those that had to be added to Beo4 using LIST. Most had no effect.
However, selecting either V.TAPE (A.MEM) or DVD2* would start the DVD1 playing Track 1, but further control (numbers, arrows or STOP/PAUSE) was impossible. A long press of the power button was still required to turned the DVD1 off.
* DVD2 is the same IR command as V.TAPE2, and displayed as such in my BL3500 display. It can also be access using [SHIFT] [V.TAPE] on the BL1000.
So, I seem to have demonstrated limited direct use of AAL data, albeit not very useful!
I will do further DVD1 experiments with MCL2AV when I can extract it from the box pile.
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No response from the BL passive when activating the MCL2AV. Disconnecting ML from the PL passive and then it works, but the IR eye seems to be disable apart from the red LED.
Looking at the Passive’s circuit diagram, there’s an ML-sense (ML pin 12) that triggers IC305 to switch from PL to ML. As discussed before, it’s a pity we don’t have the BL Active’s (1636) circuit diagram to compare.
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Yes maybe, Could be interesting to see how it responds to either command when connected to the 1611 converter also
I had done limited testing of DVD1 to BL1611 here: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/8/#post-14333
But I was trying to select using DVD command rather than CD, but in order to do the latter (and get sound) I would have to move the audio pins from 3&5 to 1&4. Of course I could just test control without audio.
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Thanks for testing the Active Passive combination – useful info to store away for the future.
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@Guy: Just a thought. When you tried testing with the DVD1 did you ever try if it would react to the CD command?
I can’t remember, but if I did then I didn’t note the result anywhere!! ?
Of course it won’t work if the DVD1 is connected to my BC9500 or BC2300 because they both have a CD built in, but next time I have the MCL2AV equipment out I will try it connected to the CD socket and see what happens.
It could be that the DVD1 only responds to AAL commands rather than Datalink commands?
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The BeoSound Ouverture was called BeoSound 4000 outside of Europe, as explained here: https://beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=952
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A further thought about the ‘three wire’ MCL sensor timer button: I suppose I could test using my BV10-32 as the source, but I am never quite sure about timer setups when initiated from the TV. Might be worth a try while I have the cables out, but not today.
I was about to test this but realised that (unlike my old BV6-26) my BV10-32 does not have a programmable timer function! It just has a ‘Sleep Timer’ and a ‘Play Timer’ – the latter giving the ability to respond to a timer set elsewhere in an ML system.
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@madskp. Any chance you could check whether the Active’s PL output will turn a connected Passive on/off? This could be useful if wanting a local ‘PC’ input in a room with passive speakers.
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The PC socket can also be used as a line-out (fixed volume).
The pins were listed back here: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/15997/261799.aspx
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The user guide found…. ….here might help. Beware – almost all BS4/DAB are DAB only, no DAB+ MM
Not a problem in UK where the majority of stations are still DAB.
(assuming OP is in UK)
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Tried that it is finding 120 odd stations but I don’t know how to find them or add them. thanks for your help much appreciated
Have you tried following the advice on page 15 of the manual? As follows:
If DAB tuning results in too many stations for the Program List …
> The available stations appear in the STORE PROGRAM menu.
> Turn the wheel to move between stations.
> Press GO to store a station.
> If the menu is empty, or if you do not want to store more stations, press EXIT to leave the menu.Location: Warwickshire, UK
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I once removed the stickiness from most of the interior and centre console of a Mk4 VW Golf – that was mostly plastic underneath. I remember using IPA and finding quite a few advice videos on the subject, such as this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbrznLcQwNg
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A further thought about the ‘three wire’ MCL sensor timer button: I suppose I could test using my BV10-32 as the source, but I am never quite sure about timer setups when initiated from the TV. Might be worth a try while I have the cables out, but not today.
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Apropos Beolink Active I just got a good deal on three of the including IR sensors and some ML cable and not related adapter cables.
A very useful acquisition and I look forward to more experiments including with the PC input!
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