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I have attached the door string fitting instructions that were included with the kit – basically they are an extract from the service manual.
I will also upload to the manual library.
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I also found this in a box – the VX sensor that I had previously used with my Beoport (see earlier photo). It seems that I also kept the useful yellow Post-it from when I made the little adaptor. I think that the connections are even correct!
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So despite hurting my back yesterday mowing the lawn I have today commenced the great box search!
After four hours of careful extraction, unwrapping and disappointment, I have uncovered the very last box and saw this red writing on the top: (I was organised after all!)
And in a little box inside the box I found this:
Reverse view, just in case anyone else finds the part number useful!
I am so relieved – I was beginning to doubt myself and had even searched out the eBay confirmation email from when I bought it. (this confirmed that it cost me £4.10 exactly ten years ago!)
Anyway, I need to rebuild the box pile and then go out for a meal to celebrate the find. I will start the CD-door re-stringing exercise in the next few days and will let you know how it goes!
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I have the kit somewhere including the fly lead with socket for hard wiring into BM7000.
Found the BM7000 sensor kit (whilst searching boxes for BC9500 spares – not yet found!)
Weird 6-pin DIN connection visible:
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Thanks Madskp – I think it’s a rainy day job, hence I can put it off until tomorrow and crack on today with all the other jobs I normally avoid: lawn mowing, vacuuming etc.
Any unboxing photos will be of me sat in the middle of a pile of cardboard and wrapping with my head in my hands, wishing that I had been far more organised when I packed it all away! ?
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The first thing I would try is the old cartridge, if you still have it – did the fault start immediately on fitting the new cartridge? If so, and you don’t have the old one, simply remove the cartridge, check the contacts are clean and refit.
Then try another amplifier, just to rule that out (or try another line input on the same amplifier).
There could be a break in the cable inside the DIN plug. Either try moving the cable around where it enters the plug, or it may be possible to prise the plug open (sliding the plastic cover away from the pins) and see if there is a loose connection inside.
If none of the above finds the problem, the fault is probably within the BG6500 or the cartridge, hence specialist knowledge may be required to investigate.
(PS: I’ll delete your previous thread/post – just reply within this thread once you have an update or require further advice)
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Great news that the input now works with the re-soldered lead – thanks for coming back on the site and letting us know.
also, I followed the instructions for the List button and that worked too. Oddly the A.Mem button no longer shows A.Aux, it now shows A.Tape. Any tips on how to change this?
It’s quite strange that the display has changed from what you previously saw – I don’t actually have a BS3000 so perhaps another Forum Member will confirm the behaviour of theirs? Perhaps the software in the BS3000 is designed so that a ‘remote-initiated’ selection of A.AUX tells the system to assume that future selections of other audio sources are specifically not A.AUX.
Adding a function to the Beo4 LIST button should not change anything on the BS3000. Maybe try disconnecting anything from the Aux socket, then turn the BS3000 off and temporarily remove mains power. Then power it up and see if there are any changes (with the aux still disconnected).
What is displayed when you press AUX on the BS3000’s keypad?
A.MEM is just the updated name for A.TAPE as a B&O source – the IR command is identical. The BS3000 does not have datalink so it cannot control a B&O tape deck via the aux socket anyway.
Thanks, by the way, for being a great resource! I live in the desert area of central British Columbia in Canada, where no-one has even heard of this equipment, so to have access to an international team of experts from multiple time zones is pretty nice
Many thanks for the compliment! Beoworld is indeed a great worldwide resource and it’s always nice to see new Members.
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I once had an IR sensor for BM5500 with a 6 pin DIN plug. It was looking like the VX sensor, so it might be the same type, but with more connections.
6-pin DIN rang a bell, and I found this:
I have the kit somewhere including the fly lead with socket for hard wiring into BM7000. The fitting instruction show some strange DIN socket pin numbering: https://forum.beoworld.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/Beomaster_7000_IR_sensor_mounting-instructions.pdf
4 wires are used, but pin 6 does not appear to be connected to anything in the BM7000.
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You and your black boxes…
Ha ha! Actually fashionably very dark grey ?
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when he daily drives a Dacia
Me too! (I sold the VW on the left ?)
(and apologies to the moderators for thread drift … ?)
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So as promised I am hijacking Beitie’s thread to described repair of my (Danish!) mother-in-law’s BC9500, collected yesterday. I merely fitted the CD transit screws, taped down the loose glass panels and placed it carefully in the boot of the car in the centre of an old cot mattress that I keep for just such purposes (unless more grandchildren arrive!)
The faults are a sticking CD door and loose top panels (I re-glued the lower panel approx 10 year’s ago and it is still secure). I removed the glass panels and centre panel, then opened the unit up and realised that the service position support arm is missing, hence had to prop the lid against a box to work on it! You can see the loose CD door string hanging down:
Close up:
I then removed the CD door to make access easier, and realised that the little plastic sliding clip is broken where one end of the CD door string should attach! I left the other end of the string in place so you can see how it should look.
So clearly this repair is a bit trickier than I anticipated!
Two immediate thoughts:
- I wish I had kept the donor (‘Christmas tree’) BC9000 that I got rid of a few years ago – I could have transferred parts across.
- Again several years ago, I remember purchasing (on eBay) a ‘BeoCenter 9500 door string replacement kit’, thinking that I would be sure to need it one day. I think it even included new plastic sliders. The problem is that it is in one of these boxes:
What the above photo doesn’t show is that there are now several more boxes on top and all around (not all B&O) plus a precariously balanced BL3500, BL2000 and a partially dismantled Beoplay V1-32 propped against the side. I can barely enter the room!
So I will try to muster the energy to delve into the boxes again – I really must label them in much more detail.
I am also waiting for ‘super glue gel’ to arrive to re-stick the upper glass panel, so I can’t even crack on with that task while I procrastinate about the boxes.
To be continued ……. timeframe uncertain! ?
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In conclusion my BL Passive / Ml-MCL converter seems to work for all functions
Good conclusion – if I do try anything similar with the BC9500 as a source I’ll post it here, but it’s only really the ‘timer’ functionality (with rectangular sensor) that may be worth testing. I vaguely remember having problems trying my BC9500 with a BL1611 and Passive many years ago but can’t remember what sensor I used. Performance may be related to the SW version of the BC9500 source of course, so I’ll check the config tool to see if there are any relevant notes.
It may be worth deciding terminology/names when talking about IR eye/sensor types. I tend to think of the four main types as follows:
– MCL sensor (normal rectangular type with Timer and Mute buttons – 5 connections hard wired)
– VX sensor (as MCL but no buttons – 3 connections only to 3.5mm plug)
– ML sensor (normal round type with Timer, Vol and Play button – 5 connections – usually via 7 pin DIN)
– BS3 sensor (as ML but with no button markings – 5 connections possible but only three used to 3.5mm plug)I haven’t mentioned newer ones with fancy ‘join’ buttons and RJ45 connections etc. Nor special hardwired types like the BM7000 sensor which will be a variation of the above (probably VX with DIN plug).
Next subject is my new NL/ML converter, and I probably will test the IR receiver with that also, but that’s for another thread
Looking forward to the new thread! I expect experimentation with all the above sensor types and full MCL/ML/NL integration – just think of the number of permutations once you add in Converter configuration settings!! ?
PS: It could be worth getting hold of some of these if you do want to try different sensors: https://www.amazon.co.uk/PENGLIN-Terminal-Ethernet-Extender-Connector/dp/B0BTYH9726
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Agree about the timer function not nesesarely working just because the light is on. I don’t think I can test that as I don’t have the MCP 5550 to program timer settings.
However If you take a look at the diagrams for the MCL2A only the yellow wire is in use (for the speaker on/off circiut), and on the MCL2AV the yellow and the grey wire seems to be connected on the screw terminal (will have to double check that on the actual unit), so a little in doubt about the actual function of them
Ah yes I had forgotten about that. I suppose for the MCL2A, the Mute just needs to ‘directly’ operate a relay on the same circuit board (only sending data for a long press), whereas in an MCL2AV everything is done with data? Linking yellow and grey ‘tells’ the IR sensor that it is connected to an MCL2AV, not an MCL2A.
Also, looking at the MCL2A circuit diagram there are two way arrows on the IR data (white) wires, and in the circuit MCL2AV it shows data in/out (connection B4), so two-way data would allow for any timer or indeed two-way IR functionality.
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BL Passive – ML – 1611 – datalink – MCL2AV – datalink BC3500
Got it! I was just being a bit slow about the 1611 -> MCL2AV connection from earlier trials!
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That sounds hopeful – come back and let us know if it works!
By the way, if you are using a Beo4 remote you can add A.AUX as a source to the LIST button.
To add it, on the Beo4:
– Press Power (On/Off button) and LIST together, the display should read ADD?
– Press GO.
– Press LIST until the display shows A.AUX. then GO.
– A.AUX should then be listed under LIST.To use it, press LIST until A.AUX shows then press GO. A.AUX should appear on the BS3000’s display.
(Alternatively, just use the single button press A.TAPE or A.MEM as mentioned earlier!)
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I can control my Beocord 3500 through 1611 + MCL2AV (with no IR eye)
Sorry a further question from your earlier post: How exactly is this connected – and where does the Passive fit in?
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Ok, I might have to correct myself. Reading the instruction manual for the Beolink Passive again I can read that a press on play should turn of the passive, and a press again should activate the last played source, and that is working as it should when the BM5500 is used as Audio master.
? that makes sense. And it’s easy to get confused with the number of permutations that you are testing!
Going back a few posts, it’s interesting about the functionality of the extra two wires on the rectangular IR eye. Being required for two-way IR would make sense, and potentially for the ‘timer’ function. I suppose that just because the timer light goes on, doesn’t mean a message has been sent to the Passive via the IR data connection – the IR sensor may still need to be interrogated by the system before the Passive responds to a Timer event.
I am collecting my mother-in-law’s BC9500 for repair later today and will have it for at least a week, so once I have ‘serviced’ it (doors and glass panels) I might have a play with some BL1611/Passive/MCL2AV/Converter options!
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But the Mute button will put the whole system in standby with a single press regardless of the two setups.
So is the (round sensor) ‘Mute’ button actually the ‘Play’ button, or am I confused?
Here’s the front of a normal ML sensor:
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Interesting stuff! So the ’round IR eye with no markings on the buttons’ is internally probably just a normal ML sensor, which usually has Timer at the top and Play at the bottom. I have one, and just thought of it as a BS3 sensor (or Beoport sensor), although the buttons did indeed click I didn’t realise that they might work!
Here’s mine inside: (picture previously posted in my LC2 repair thread)
EDIT: Just for reference, Yellow and Grey would be the (missing) connections 1 and 2 in my sensor.
EDIT 2: And connection 4 would be White, in a ‘normal’ ML sensor.
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Have a look at the very first diagram in this excellent thread ?: https://www.hifi4all.dk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32157&PN=1
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