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Are you using an audio extractor to get sound from the hdmi as detailed in my second post of this thread?
each time its not clear if the data flaow uspside or downside.
By design (and its original purpose) data and audio should flow in both directions. When my TV was connected to my BC9500 via a 1611 I could control (and listen to) each device from the other.
I do think that the 1611 defaults to videomaster (as in your case) but it would be really useful to find out what forces it to become an audiomaster.
I have found a spare 7-pin DIN plug, but am going to give up for today for two reasons:
– Firstly I hate soldering, especially fiddly little DIN plugs with my sausage fingers!
– Secondly, I need to research SCART to hdmi converters: my father has just purchased a new (non-B&O) TV and wants to know how to connect his VHS player!!!
What’s missing is the purpose of that shorting: what means “trigger the 1611” when in the same diagram you also have a Beo4.
I think he means triggering as an audiomaster, because in the text above he states that you can select using A.AUX or PC on the Beo4.
Pin 2 is ground.
Pin 1 and 4 would normally be for the L and R audio in the other direction (output from the 1611), and I assume that the 1611 would use it as such in a normal MCL/ML setup. It’s therefore not logical that pin 1 should connect to ground.
I just made up a lead and it didn’t work!
Perhaps it’s a mistake and pin 6 (datalink) should connect to ground (pin 2)? I need to find a 7 pin plug before I can test!
(LSNUT and PCNUT are for OneRemote inputs to Passive and BL Active respectively, not 1611). I know that the Active has a non-standard PC input connection for some reason, so that makes sense)
I have now found my 1611 and associated cables and have experimented a little to try and work out the audiomaster/videomaster trigger.
I put my BV10-32 in V.OPT 2 and connected a 1611 with ML.
I tried my iPhone as a source using a 3.5mm to 7-pin DIN cable into the 1611’s AAL socket (inputting to DIN pins 3 and 5 as usual). Pressing any audio source will turn the TV on, but there is no sound. When I press MENU the TV’s screen shows the audio source that I selected (eg RADIO). I tried various Video sources (unused by BV10) but still no sound. Hence the TV is detecting the 1611 but it is NOT working correctly as either video- or audio-master.
I then connected my (old) BS1’s AUX in/out to the 1611 with a 7-pin DIN to DIN. The TV turn on with any AUDIO source and I can hear the radio from the BS1 through the TV speakers. I can’t control the BS1, but didn’t expect to be able to as I was just using it as an audio source.
So in the second case above, something conveyed by the 7-pin DIN (possibly from the BS1) is triggering the 1611 to work as an audiomaster.
Then I spotted a little note in Peter Pan’s diagram at this post: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-how-to-fix-ml-input-selection/#post-13657
There’s a note by the DIN plug that states (in Danish) ‘to trigger the 1611, connect a wire from Pin 2 to Pin 1’.
@Matador have you made this pin 2 to pin 1 connection in the source to your 1611? Perhaps this is what OneRemote’s ASNUT cable does?8 January 2023 at 15:27 in reply to: Connecting Active BeoLab Speakers to Speaker 1 Output (BM3300 & BL6000) #42640Anyone who can clarify this topic?
Wait until Steve at Sounds Heavenly’s site (sponsor at foot of page) is open and I think he can help – from memory he supplies attenuated cables for just that purpose.
Would a MCL2AV help?
MCL2AV is designed for a link room and would be conected to the BM3300 Spkr 2 sockets. You could connect Beolabs to it’s Powerlink sockets in a link room. If you tired to use an MCL2AV in the same room as the BM3300 you would not be able to control volume fully via the front panel. Better to use a solution from Steve to attenuate the spkr 1 socket output.
On MK2 that has only ML and a frustrating useless Powerlink socket, what would be the use of turning off Masterlink?
I think that in some setups (with Wireless 1) you are suppose to connect via the 8-pin plug. The Mk2 service manual mentions this, without calling it MCL. I will see if it is mentioned in the PCG.
EDIT: There is also this text, Google translated from one of RaMaBo’s posts in that earlier thread I mentioned:
The 8 pin DIN connector may also be an MCL connector if the BL3500 has been updated with a new software version! Then there is an MCL connection electrically, but technically a PowerLink connection for the software! The PL Connector will then not work properly! This can be recognized by the serial number of the BL3500: from SN.19343452 it is really a BeoLab 3500 MKII, before that an MKI with a physical MCL connection! Unfortunately, both sockets look identical.
Hence different behaviours for different software versions of Mk2.
And guess what? i saved a key! Now the speaker starts, still with a video source key (TV, SAT, V.TAPE, CDV…), but without the need to press the AV key before. Just what I was looking for.
Great news – let’s hope it stays that way!
PS: With ref to your earlier question:
Regarding ML or MCL mode does this apply even to MK2 speakers?
I did reply earlier but it disappeared! Yes I think it does apply to Mk2 speakers. I stumbled upon this thread with the help of Google Translate: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/45513/329811.aspx
A late night thought: Are you 100% sure that the BL3500 is going into L.OPT 6? Is there feedback in the display?
If not, are you sure that the BL3500 is in ML mode? Press MENU MENU 0 9 GO* then use up down arrow to select the ML option and press GO again. Power down for 5 mins then re-do L.OPT 6 setting.
(* Might be MENU MENU 9 GO – without the extra 0 before 9)
As an aside, with your Beo4 you can probably also add ‘A DVD2’ or ‘A V.AUX’ to the LIST button, and then use to turn on the BL3500. This may give you something more acceptable than TV on the BL3500 screen!
Yes indeed! I may as well open a few of those boxes as we are not moving house imminently – waiting for house prices to fall further before we buy …
I added those ASNUT and VSNUT cables to a basket at OneRemote but they wanted €72 postage to UK!!!
As an aside, did you ever here further from francoisvl? His post suggested a ‘one button’ solution. https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-how-to-fix-ml-input-selection/#post-4665
Could be worth a PM if he is not often on the forum.
Cables are VSNUT and ASNUT. Cables being all the same price I wonder if it’s a marketing trick or if there simply something in the socket, like a resistor between the two datalink pins, that fools the converter.
I’ve often wondered about those two cables! I have a OneRemote internet radio and considered connecting it to my BV10-32 via a 1611 converter. Their website suggests that an ASNUT cable is required, but I really don’t understand why I can’t connect it straight to a 1611’s AUX socket.
If I can find my 1611, an ML cable and an AUX cable I may experiment in the coming days!
I’ve read the Powerlink socket just carry the trigger signal for use in certain configurations. What if I send him a 5v when powering it on? Wouldn’t make it think it is connected in an audio config?
My understanding is that the 1611’s PL connection is for volume data. If you have a BC2300 in A.OPT 0 connected via a 1611 converter to a TV in V.OPT 2 (i.e only the TV has speakers connected), you need the PL connection so the BC2300’s keypad volume control will operate. (Remembering that the BC2300’s AUX output is a fixed line level).
It is worth experimenting with connecting your (MCL-era) BC2300 to the 1611, this just needs a 7 pin DIN from AUX to the 1611 (no PL connection is required).
If it’s in the same room, put the BC2300 in A.OPT 0 first to avoid double IR commands, and then see how the BL3500 behaves with various Option Settings.
The 1611 auto-configures to a video- or audio-master when power is applied, so maybe you can spoof the 1611 into reconfiguring and then disconnect your BC2300 and connect the other source? However, you are taking a risk by making/breaking connections whilst power is applied.
matador wrote:
Even if the Beo4 is in link mode you can still send traditional commands right?Not sure! I read somewhere that when Beo4 is in permanent LINK mode, you have to then press LINK to send a ‘normal’ command. I will test this now …
Tested, and the answer is …. NO it doesn’t work! In permanent LINK mode the only thing I could control (even pressing LINK first) was my lights (and that is via Lightmanager Pro).
EDIT: But all the traditional commands will work for the product that it in OPT 4.
Even if the Beo4 is in link mode you can still send traditional commands right?
Not sure! I read somewhere that when Beo4 is in permanent LINK mode, you have to then press LINK to send a ‘normal’ command. I will test this now …
And I agree that L.OPT 6 should be the setting for a BL3500 in a system with a normal audiomaster. (I think OPTs 1 and 2 only referred to the older LCS9000).
I have only ever heard of a 1611 ‘audiomaster’ aux input being activated by a VIDEO source selection – any of which should work.
With regard to the pressing of AV. I used this button when I had a mixture of (connected) video and audio sources in the same room, each with their own speakers. I could press AV TV to hear the TV though my BC9500, or press AV RADIO to hear the RADIO through my TV. So in effect you are having to press AV TV to hear your ‘video source’ through your ‘audio’ system.
I think that with a normal audiomaster (with connected videomaster), connected by ML to a link room BL3500 would not require you to press AV (even to hear a video source) – it’s a funny requirement of the 1611 workaround.
It’s not the LINK key that I must depress, it’s the AV. On the Beolink 5000, where there is a LINK key, I’ve tried LINK+TV. Didnt work, must be A/V+TV.
Sorry for confusion. I was wondering whether you could first set the BL3500 to L.OPT 4. In that configuration commands have to be proceeded by LINK. My thought was that this could potentially avoid the need for the pressing of AV. Worth a try.
Of course this would only potentially reduce button presses for a Beo4, and only if you can set it in permanent LINK mode.
Congratulations on the 1611 purchase – a very useful bit of kit!
The 3500 works the same way in option 5 or 6.
Have you tried L.OPT 4 and then set your Beo4 as a LINK only remote, so you don’t have to select LINK each time?
EDIT: Also have you tired L.OPT 1 and/or L.OPT 2? In some of the older MCL kit you had to set L.OPT 1 or 2 as well as L.OPT 5 or 6 to make it work correctly.
This is basically a copy of a posting I also placed in General Discussion but that was before I knew this sub forum existed. So my apology but hope you will read it anyway.
I have deleted the other one, otherwise I think many people will see both from the Forum Home page. Hopefully someone will be able to assist.
(And welcome to the Forum!)
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