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It might have stopped working because I did a RESET? on the Beo4
RESET on the navi Beo4 should not affect the BM7000 IR receiver.
However, let’s check again by using your older Beo4 remote – you know this is working because you could see the transmitters glowing with your phone.
Re-try the A.OPT 1 procedure with the older Beo4. Be sure to follow the instructions preceisely, ie:
- Turn the BS7000 to standby/off by using the power button on the front panel.
- On the Beo4, press the POWER button and LIST together. Then press LIST until OPTION is shown, press GO (centre button), and then press LIST to show A.OPT. Then press 1. The power light on the BM7000 should blink to show that it has been accepted.
If that doesn’t work, then on the older Beo4, try this:
- Power+ List together
- Press List till CONFIG appears
- Enter 2 0 0 2, and the display will say either LINK ON, or LINK OFF.
- Press Exit
- You need the screen to say LINK OFF, so repeat the above procedure until it does so (it will toggle each time the procedure is followed)
Then try setting A.OPT 1 again.
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Is the datalink cable a fully wired 7-pin? And is it definitely connected to the AUX/TV socket of the BM7000 and the AAL socket of the BL1611?
I don’t think that the Powerlink cable is required in this setup – it’s probably worth disconnecting in case it is causing a conflict.
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Just to confirm, the IR receiver in the BM7000 is internal?
Yes it is. There was an external sensor available in case you wanted to put the main unit in a cupboard, but even fitting this wouldn;t disable the internal sensor.
Looking at this thread https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/18489.aspx, might there also not be an option to turn off the IR receiver at the BM7000 and I might have accidentally done that when resetting the Beo4? Because, before that, the remote was sort of working. And if that is another solution, question remains how to turn on the IR receiver on the BM7000.
Using the Beo4 remote to set A.OPT 0 stops the BM7000 from responding to IR commands. (Pedantically, it doesn’t actually ‘turn off’ the IR receiver, because you can use the Beo4 to set A.OPT 1 to get it to start responding again).
When you say that the remote was ‘sort of working’ before, was that when it was connected to the TV? In your earlier setup (with the TV connected to the BM7000 and the speakers connected to the TV), the TV would have been set to V.OPT 2, in which setting it would respond to both video (TV, DTV etc) and audio (RADIO, CD etc) commands – relaying the latter to the BM7000 over Masterlink. The BM7000 would have been set to A.OPT 0 where it would not respond to direct IR commands because it is getting them via the TV/masterlink.
So the BM7000 is either stuck in A.OPT 0, or there is a fault that stops it receiving (responding to) IR commands.
I assume that you were using a BeoLink 1611 converter to connect masterlink to the BM7000 – have you removed that from the system? If not, try disconnecting it from the BM7000.
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I can’t see anything lighting up from the Beo4 with little navi button (maybe it’s to faint?).
Strange. In that case you could try adjusting the IR power setting on that navi remote to the maximum.
Access the service menu by pressing stby + LIST at the same time, and then MENU + (joystick) at the same time. Press ^ several times until the display reads IRPWR: X. 1 is the lowest and 7 is the max IR signal strength (default is 4). Give 7 a try to see if that gets through to the BM7000 – try the A.OPT 1 setting procedure again.
If that doesn’t work, and given that the other remote also won’t control it, perhaps your BM7000 is faulty like the one in this thread: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beomaster-7000-not-responding/
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I would be very coincidental if the Beo4 just gave up emitting IR signals at the same time I removed the TV out of my installation. How do I exactly check Beo4 remote working with an iPhone selfie camera?
I agree, but worth checking! Just view the end of the remote with the selfie camera and you should be able to see the IR transmitters glowing faintly when you press buttons on the remote.
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Can you also confirm that your Beo4 has the little navi button in the centre of the arrow keys? Is it the one on the far right in the picture below?
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Could it be I need to point it to the IR receiver more closely, and if so, where is that positioned on the Beomaster 7000.
That shouldn’t be necessary* – but have you checked that the Beo4 is actually working (transmitting IR) by observing the end with an iPhone selfie camera?
* There is a setting for turning down the IR output on the Beo4, but we’ll come back to that once you have checked the above.
Or could another device (like the Apple TV I do have) capture the IR signal before it reaches the Beomaster 7000?
No. There have been reports of plasma TVs affecting IR signals, but this is unlikely.
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The BM7000 should be in standby (off) when you carry out the A.OPT 1 procedure – and I think that it should acknowledge the instruction in some way – either a flash of the standby light or a number in the display.
The A.OPT 1 procedure does not change the output of the Beo4 – it re-programmes the Beomaster to accept IR commands.
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Good advice above – I would go for PL Mk3 cables from Steve.
However, you also asked about the 5-pin DIN cable in your post. Checking the service manual of BL8000, the input makes no use of PL pins 6, 7 or 8. This would suggest that a 5-pin DIN cables would indeed ‘work’, but there is no guarantee that L&R signal connections (pins 3&5) are correctly shielded, hence best to stick with the correct cable. I can’t find the circuit diagram for Beolab 2, but this may be the same.
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Hi again Stefan,
The rugby was a bit one-sided as France beat Wales 43-0, and England’s defeat against Ireland yesterday wasn’t much better! The Rugby ‘six nations’ runs for the next few weekends so hopefully it will improve!
Well done for finding the battery. Regarding replacement, it is NOT a good idea to try desoldering the battery from its terminals as there is a danger of the battery exploding if heat is applied. They are spot-welded in place as far as I know.
Ideally, you need to replace with one of these which has the correct pin spacing for the holes in the PCB: https://uk.farnell.com/renata/cr2450-nfh-lf/cell-lithium-button-2pin-3v/dp/1319731
… which means you will have to remove the processor board in order to solder underneath.
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Still can’t figure out how to do the same with my Beo5, but at least it’s sorted, thanks.
There’s a table in the Beo5 handbook that says ‘S.STORE’ on the Beo4 is equivalent to ‘Sound Store’ (text in full) on the Beo5 – does that help? I assume that like the Beo4 it will only appear when you are controlling an audio product. Can’t think of anything else but hopefully someone else knows!!
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If I go back into List settings I can see that A.Setup is there (available for me to move or remove), so I know I added it successfully, but I cannot seem to get it to appear in the extra buttons when I click List.
This may be because the Beo4 is set to control a Video source (eg, with TV showing in display).
Have you tried pressing RADIO (or any other audio source) and then cycling through LIST?
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Beo4 Mk4: The lexicon says that S.Store should be available to add as a list item, but only if A.Setup has been added. So, I added A.Setup, but still could not find S.Store to add. Even though I have added A.Setup, it does not appear if I press the List button to cycle through the extra buttons, but if I go back into List settings, I can see it is there.
Use LIST to go to A.SETUP. Then press OK. Then use LIST to cycle through BASS, TREBLE, LOUDNSS, and then …….. S.STORE 😀
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Do you think I can remove the cable sockets without damaging or just leave them at the PCB trying to get under it ?
I think that you can just leave the cables connected, unclip the PCB from the black clip on the right hand side and then rotate it up and to the left. But you might have to remove the microprocessor board so that you can solder a new battery from underneath.
I am more than happy to help – I have the 6-nations rugby (France v Wales) on another screen and a nice glass of red wine! 🍷
Have a good weekend! 😀
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I think that the microprocessor board with the metal cover is under the PCB marked in green:
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(Sorry for reply in English!)
Unlike the BC9000/9500, the BC9300 is based heavily upon the BC2300/2500 and the battery is located in a different place, under the metal cover of the microprocessor on the main PCB in the centre of the Beocenter. This thread may help: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-9300-no-life-almost/
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Further to the above: I was looking for a new PSU for the Beoline and realised that 5.5V 350-500mA may (just about) be supported by USB Type A.
I made a quick connection from an old USB cable, plugged it in to a USB2.0 socket the front of my computer and it worked fine. This could be useful in the future, for instance if I want to reduced PSUs by powering the Beoline from the USB socket on my modem/router.
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The grey plug/socket is a loop through which enables you to add external tone control – it is of no use here and the grey plug should be inserted for the unit to play correctly.
The Tape 2 ‘line in’ phono/cinch/rca sockets are the next two along – left and then right. They should be labelled on the rear edge (behind the connection in your picture).
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
Maybe have a read of this thread so that you know the location of the sensors (it’s a bit confusing to read to the end): https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosystem-2300-where-is-the-motion-sensor-for-the-doors-located/
But it is strange that they should suddenly stop working! Are you sure that the problem is not mechanical – no sound whatsoever from the motor? Have you tired gently pulling the glass apart whilst waving hands in front?
Any strange new electronic devices in the room – plasma TV, strange wavelength lighting? Maybe re-position the speakers further away from the BC2300. Are the speakers BeoLab 3 by any chance?
Are you sure that it’s a BC2300 – check the label on the rear? The newer BS3000/3200 had a setting where the doors could be locked to prevent unwanted tampering.
I nothing above helps, it may be time to strip the system down and look for internal faults suck as jammed mechanism or faulty drive belt or door motor. The service manual is available on the site for Silver/Gold members.
EDIT: This is why I asked about Beolab 3: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/32921.aspx
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The BeoCom 2 that was the subject of my original post in this thread had some problems:
- I have recently changed my BC6000 setup and am now using a Beoline EU Mk2 rather than the older ‘pyramid’ PSTN base. The Beoline works fine with the BC6000s (Mk2s) but although the BeoCom 2 will connect and operate (including access to ‘common’ phonebook), it will not update the time and the handset name does not show on the other (BC6000) handsets. I think that this is because it’s a BeoCom 2 Mk1.
- After being used for a while, the LCD display on the BeoCom 2 fades to nothing – the only way I can get it back is to cycle the phone off and on again – it’s not really practical for reliable use. A new display is £75 so I don’t really want o go down the replacement route.
- The rubber on the BeoCom 2 table charger has perished to the extent that the charger has crumbled into several pieces – it is no longer useable!
Anyway, last week I purchased a ‘spares or repair’ bundle including Beocom 2, table charger and Beoline EU for a total of £35. I bought it primarily for the table charger which looked to be in fairly good condition, apart from a few marks, hence one of the above problems is sorted.
The ‘new to me’ Beocom 2 was a very scruffy, scratched white version with very faded buttons and scratches on the screen surround, but I was pleased to see that it is the newer Mk2 version (see here for differences). I changed the battery and it burst into life and worked perfectly, including full compatibility with my Beoline base! I therefore stripped it down and put the innards in the silver ‘better condition’ case. I also swapped over the keypad buttons and screen surround, and now have a quite presentable fully working BeoCom 2 Mk2: (it looks white in the picture but is the silver one)
I then turned to the Beoline – when connected to the mains the light didn’t even come on so I suspected a power problem. The plug-in adaptor was a sealed unit so I took apart the Beoline itself to check for power at that end. There was one small screw to undo and then it prised apart – I managed to break every clip in the process so I will have to glue it back together but never mind! Here’s it disassembled, and for interest I have circled in red a little port that is usually covered by the little rubber blank that you can also see; I assume this hidden connection if for dealers to carry out SW updates etc.
Anyway there was no power getting to the Beoline, so first I attempted to dismantle the PSU using a selection of destructive tools …
But as expected that was an impossible task, so I cut the cable, found a 5.5V BC6000 charger PSU and bodged a quick connection to test the Beoline:
I connected the Beoline to my phone line, powered it up, registered the Beocom 2 and it works perfectly!
Although it’s been quite satisfying playing around with the two phones, I am not sure that I would recommend Beocom 2 repair – it’s quite tricky to take apart so hopefully mine will stay working for a while now!
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