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Have you checked against the latest listed releases here? https://update.bang-olufsen.com/products
According to page 3 of the link, Essence Mk2 latest update was released 9 Apr 25. I will connect my Essence later and check that it updates OK.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
Effectively you have two devices connected directly to your Beolabs, which you shouldn’t do – for reasons that you have discovered, but you could also cause damage!
You have at least two options:
- A powerlink switch like this to enable two devices to share the speakers: https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69067-powerlink-switch/4162-powerlink-speaker-switch/
- Adding a NL/ML Converter so that you can connect the ML socket of the BeoSound to the NL socket of the TV. This could be a better option if you want to add more NL devices in the future and want to play the BeoSound 9000 over the NL system.
There are possibly other options making use of the aux input of the BeoSound (or AV input of the TV) but these may not be as user-friendly.
EDIT: Here’s a cable from one of our Sponsors that makes use of the TV’s AV input: https://soundsheavenly.com/tv-input/138-2295-9-pin-av-cable-for-beovision-11-12-new-generation-avant-v1-and-beosystem-4-powerlink-input.html#/5-length-5m
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I set up my Mk1 Playmaker today and experimented with a few things including factory reset, followed by different methods of setup.
Some observations:
- I too was not able to setup or access the Playmaker using the B&O app – I saw the same messages as Madskp.
- I was able to use the old BeoSetup app (no longer avail) to do a ‘first-time’ setup the Playmaker. As described in the instructions, I had to first go into the iPhone wireless menu, disconnect from my home wifi and connect to ‘Playmaker_AP’, whereupon the BeoSetup app (but not the B&O app) could be used to complete setup.
- After a further factory reset, I was able to complete to complete a ‘wireless setup via cable’ using a laptop (switched to airplane mode) and the following instructions:
I found the Playmaker setup menu under the published IP address of http://169.254.11.22 – so perhaps it is indeed just different for the Mk2 Playmaker (or perhaps it is only for first time setup via cable – I haven’t seen a Mk2 manual).
I am not sure how the above helps @TWG, but am happy to experiment further if required. It would be useful to know if his Playmakers are Mk1 or Mk2, but I would recommend webpage setup using a computer on his home network to find the individual devices by IP address (look in computers Network folder for Playmakers) and change settings as required.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
(I am not sure why this is not as mentioned in the manual, but maybe a difference between MK1 and MK2 or something that has changed with an software update.)
The only significant difference that I know of is that the Mk1 had to be connected to router by RJ45 to update firmware (as mentioned in the Mk1 manual), whereas the Mk2 could apparently do so wirelessly.
I usually used the setup webpage (rather than the app) to set up my Mk1, and it was relatively straightforward. Although I don’t currently have the Playmaker in use, it is listed in my B&O app so this must have detected its presence in the past. I do remember experiencing connection/detection problems if I renamed the Playmaker and included an ‘&’ sign in the name – eg ‘B&O Playmaker’, but this may have been specific to the dnla streaming app I was using at the time (I didn’t have an iOS device when I first bought my Playmaker).
I do still have the ‘BeoSetup’ app (no longer avail) on my iPhone, and think I have used that with the Playmaker in the past. The app has slightly different setup instructions for PM Mk1 and Mk2 – the Mk1 has an orange flashing light when ready to connect to network, whereas the Mk2 has green.
@TWG I am happy to dig out my Mk1 Playmaker and test anything that may help with your problem – I’ll see what I can discover later in the week.Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
The Beolink Converter 1611 would not be any help in this setup. Masterlink audio connections need to be activated and controlled by B&O equipment at the ‘receiving’ end of the connection.
I assume that the BS4 and Denon amp are in the same room and that the BS4 has no other speakers connected?
I can see two options:
- Use Masterlink to connect the BS4 to a Beolink Active 1636 (and IR sensor – the ‘hockey puck’ type) co-located with the Denon amp. Then use a cable like this to connect the BL Active’s Powerlink output to the Denon amp’s aux input. If the BS4 and Denon amp are in the same room, put the BS4 in A.OPT 0 and remote control it through the BL Active’s IR sensor. You will have a double volume control situation, able to control volume with either the B&O remote or the Denon amp (but not via the volume buttons on the BS4).
- Re-purpose the wires in the masterlink cable either:
- To connect the BS4’s aux output to the Denon’s input. Aux output is fixed volume hence volume control would only be via the Denon.
- To connect the BS4’s Powerlink output to the Denon amp.
Original B&O masterlink cables are wired as in the following diagram, so you could chose appropriate wires and solder your own connections:
(EDIT: Unable to load image for some reason, hence added as attachement)
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Haver you tried a handset reset? Press (dot) 7 000 9
Also (but you may have done this), after a battery replacement you are supposed to press 9#9#9✱655 OK
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi Roger and welcome to Beoworld!
The runners for the doors (especially at the bottom) may need cleaning and light lubrication – I would try this first.
In addition the door drive belt may need replacing, or the wires that move the doors may have come off their runners.
With the video in the thread above, plus some of the disassembly instructions in the following thread, you may be able to attempt a DIY repair: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/4707/42777.aspx#42777
If you need the Service Manual it is available on this site to Silver and Gold Members.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
But now it seems that to get a PUC code for Apple TV would cost way more than I paid for the Apple TV!?
Don’t forget that you can also teach an Apple TV to respond to another remote. Hence you can chose another device that is available in your TV’s PUC list (eg a Humax Set Top Box) and teach the Apple TV to recognise the IR commands. I used this technique with my BV6, and have written about this in the past on Beoworld. I should be able to find the thread together with some helpful hints if you are interested?
EDIT: Here’s the thread where I talked about my experiences and gave a handy hint about pressing some of the commands repeatedly and fast: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/46321/334962.aspx#334962
The DVB-HD does seem to be behaving itself so best left alone???
Yes probably, but you mentioned a ‘new menu in a foreign language’ – has that gone away?
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Can anyone tell me if the BC9500 and BC8500 amplifiers are the same?
The 9500 and 8500 share the same service manual, so I just had a quick look through and can’t spot any highlighted differences on PCB60, but it’s probably worth a more thorough scrutiny.
I don’t think I’ll ever have use for the 2-way remote capability of the 9500.
There is one other useful feature of the 2-way remote capability, that doesn’t need a 2-way remote. The fact that the BC9500 can transmit (as well as receive) IR commands can be of use: You can use Beo4/BL1000 to transmit a LIGHT command from an MCL link room and the BC9500 will re-transmit this in the main room. I found this useful to relay LIGHT commands from an MCL link room to a Lightmanager Pro in the Main Room, which then controlled (by RF) lights back in the link room (or anywhere else in the house in RF range). The BC9500 has to be in A.OPT 1 or 2, and I did not try it from an ML link room (I didn’t have one). It’s a bit of a specific case and may not be of value in your setup, but worth mentioning.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Thanks for the assistance. I know there was a list of PUC codes on the TV previously as I stumbled apon them by accident a few times but it appears that now there is just “B&O test control” There are no others. How this could happen I have no idea?
Additionally a new menu has appeared down the left side of the screen in a foreign language on DTV despite English being selected. It seems to have a mind of it’s own?
That all sounds a bit strange! I would be tempted to go into the Service Menu and ‘Reset to factory settings’ to see if that has any effect – at your own risk of course!!
Given that there also appears to be a DTV problem, you could also try re-flashing the DVB-HD module software using the USB socket. I have copies of the latest SW for mine that I downloaded from B&O before it was removed from their support pages – file name is ‘9100357_SW_DVB_HD_MODULE_10_01.990.fpkg’ if that’s any use?
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I have just spent 5 hours trying to find the PUC list on a BV10 to include apple TV.
Not sure that I can help with your other concerns, but on my BV10-32, when you go to the ‘connections’ menu and set up an input, if you populate the ‘IR SOCKET’ setting with ‘PUC 1’ (for example), once you press GO to store, the next screen is one where you can see the PUC list(s), and use the Left/Right arrows to move through the various PUC lists, (one for STBs, one for DVD players etc).
I hope this helps!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Yes that does look strange, but if there is a problem I am surprised that it passes all the Test Modes.
I look forward to hearing whether a new laser cures the fault. Fingers crossed!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Ah yes, sorry I can see that now when I read the whole manual!
B&O has had a habit in the past of making late modifications to PCBs by adding such components, but I doubt that they would do so for such a relatively modern element that should work as designed.
My most relevant CD repair experience is all detailed in this thread, but the CD on my BC2300 was CD Pro rather than CDM12: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-ouverture-cd-not-working/#post-50375
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
just wondering because I have never seen anyone uses home number since 2008
Welcome to Beoworld!
The analogue phone network is still in use here in UK – switch off is delayed until at least January 2027 because of the number of vulnerable users who reply upon it for such things as personal/house alarms and telecare. I still use my BeoCom 6000s and Beocom 2 as a home phone (landline) because the mobile signal is intermittent where I live.
Even after analogue switch-off, I will continue to use my Beocoms as a landline with a VOIP adaptor.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I am not sure whether you have the service manual (avail on Beoworld to Silver and Gold Members), but the following extract may well explain the extra resistor and capacitor (Edit – possibly/probably another resistor?), and can I see a surface mounted diode (green LED?) in the second picture? Is pin 6 of 8IC1 still short circuited to ground? If so you may wish to revert and try again.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I can’t help with the overall problem, however I had a quick look at the Service Manual (avail on Beoworld to Silver and Gold members) and it would appear that you can change the voltage by re-wiring the transformer, and the tuner variant (Japan to USA) can be changed by cutting (or perhaps re-instating) certain jumpers on the tuner board.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I’m about to list some Atari 2600 consoles/games on eBay on behalf of a family member. It’s great to be able to activate the analogue tuner on my ‘retro’ BV10-32 and check that they work! 😀
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to our friendly forum! Hopefully we can help you get set up and connected.
To answer your question about which ML source should connect – it doesn’t matter! In a masterlink setup all the masterlinked components are connected in parallel – effectively they all share the same connections. If you have a spare socket on the distribution box then you can connect to the NL/ML converter from that.
I think that when you come to set up the NL/ML Converter, you will have to set it up as ‘Source Centre’ because you already have a Videomaster (the BV10) and an audiomaster (the BS3000) on your ML system. However, my experience on NL/ML Converters is quite limited so please have a read of the setup manual (do you have it?) and try to work out what is best for you. I am sure that other forum members will be able to advise further.
Good luck!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
The LCD display itself in mine fades to nothing over a couple of days and I have to re-boot the phone to restore it, but I can’t bring myself to investigate further as it’s too stressful a process!
Quoting myself, but I just wanted to say that, after several weeks of use (mostly sat on the charger) the LCD display in my BeoCom 2 no longer fades away as it did before. It seems that many B&O faults seem to go away the more you make use of the equipment 😀. In another example, my previously intermittent BeoSound 1 CD player has been running smoothly since I started using it more.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
