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In my experience a faulty RF chip just gives a ‘no signal’ message
Yes they can be temperamental – sometimes you just have to keep trying!
Maybe in the menu of your internet box you can disable the DECT? Perhaps there is interference between that and the PSTN?
and hope you’re able to get it back out once Moore.
Brilliant … made my evening! 😂😀
Evening!
How frustrating!!! As the person who posted about connecting directly to a router I feel somewhat responsible!
Maybe try resetting the handset before then trying to register:
If a Mk1 (no INT button) press (dot) 7 000 9
If a Mk2 (with INT button) the Service Menu: 9#9#9*INT allows you to reset the handset.
Otherwise, try a reset followed by leaving the handset on the charging pyramid base. (Logically a PIN should only be required if the handset and PSTN are physically separated, hence worth a try!)
Hopefully fixing a Beocom 6000. The call answer and ‘C’ keys were only working intermittently, and then the phone would randomly shut down. I tried a new battery and a handset reset but to no avail.
Anyway, I have just taken the phone to pieces and reversed the little contact strip between the keyboard and PCB (it’s a bit like the screen connector in the Beo4) and now it all seems to be working!
Although I have spare BC6000s somewhere I needed to fix this one because it’s a Mk1 that has had the upgrade to a Mk2, hence has the right pins to charge correctly on my mk 1 pyramid base PSTN.
Sorry for reply in English!
Perhaps the Century is in A.OPT 0, where it does not respond to IR commands. To resolve this:
Turn the Century to standby/off.
On the Beo4, press the POWER (Red Dot) button and LIST together. Then press LIST until OPTION is shown, press GO (centre button), and then press LIST to show A.OPT. Then press 1. The power light on the device may blink to show that it has been accepted.Now try the remote.
According to the manual you store the sound level in the SOUND menu. Set the volume you require and then press GO (or PLAY, using BL1000).
EDIT: If you have a very old BL1000 remote it may not have a MENU button. If so, press SHIFT then TEXT to get MENU, then use up/down arrows to navigate.
Great news – thanks for letting us know that the DECT connection worked. I don’t think many people are aware that connection can be so simple!
I can’t help with the volume issue, but perhaps there are other BeoCom owners who can advise.
A further thought: If your internet modem/router has built in DECT, then you may be able to connect the Beocom straight to it without purchasing a PSTN. I have used Beocom 6000s like this in the past – there will be reduced functionality but calls in/out should work fine.
So a power supply with a phone line would not work ?
If you mean an original Beocom 2 PSTN charging base, then I cannot be sure. As stated in the FAQ, Beocom 2s were often updated with new SW to enable them to work with other B&O phones (eg BC6000) and share a PSTN. If the Beocom 2 that you are buying has had the SW update, then I am not sure if it will work with the original PSTN/charging base. Some of the Beocom 2s original PSTN charging bases simply had the phone line cut off once the phone itself had the SW upgraded.
That’s just the handset and charger so you’ll need to add a PSTN in order to connect to the phone line.
Have a read of this FAQ to work out which one to get: https://beoworld.org/faq_view.asp?id=74
PS: And welcome to the Forum!! 😀
Great. Be sure to come back and tell us how it works!
Guy, I’ve managed to create the Powerlink switch functionality like this
I don’t fully understand the technical aspects, but I don’t think it’s a good idea to have such a setup. Even if only one of the devices is powered up, the output stage of the ‘dormant’ device is effectively connected in parallel with the output of the ‘live’ device. In extremis this may cause damage – I think it’s something to do with output/input impedance and the dangers of overloading the source (or Beolabs, or dormant device). Be careful!
The cable Steve mentioned was to connect the Core to the Tape input. I suppose this will work from Line Out to the core.
Oh yes – the cable in his first link was indeed RJ45 (Core Output) to DIN (BM7000 tape input). This will not work as a Line Out to the core.
But I think the best option will be the Powerlink switch
Agreed!!
Guy, you are a legend for showing me that website!
Very happy to help!
The real question is what cable do I need to use the Line Out from the BM7000 to Core 3.5 mini jack?…
Steve’s already linked to a suitable cable that he can supply but his shop is closed at the moment. I have a quick look for an alternative supplier but it is difficult to guarantee that the cable supplied connects to pins 1 and 4 (i.e the output pins) of the BM7000’s DIN sockets.
One solution I have used in the past is to purchase one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phono-Cassette-Interconnect-Cable-CoolNovelties-Black/dp/B016CAJSSG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2GD3UJUHDE665
This cable connects to both input (one pair of RCAs) and output (the other pair) of the 5-pin DIN.
You can then add something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Adapter-0-20cm/dp/B09SM5LQT3/ref=sr_1_14?crid=1S3XMO47QSXEF to connect the appropriate RCA pair to the Core’s line-in.
Doesn’t Almando do something like this?
Yes but it’s a bit more pricey – possibly because it has extra functions that you don’t need in this application.
I haven’t used either specific product, but have purchased other OneRemote products in the past and been impressed.
Hi Kiran,
If you still want to avoid the double-volume issue then you could still use the BM7000’s Line-Out. This shouldn’t effect use of tape; both Tape 1 and Tape 2 DIN sockets should provide input and output at the same time.
However, there is another way of looking at this. You effectively have two B&O devices sharing one ‘set’ of Powerlink speakers. That is exactly what this device is designed for: https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69067-powerlink-switch/4162-powerlink-speaker-switch/
I’m only getting an audio signal to the Core using the Powerlink connection
This is because PowerLink uses pins 3 and 5 for audio output, whereas DIN Aux outputs use pins 1 and 4. You need a different cable.
