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I just formatted the above post just so that the quote was separated from the post!
I assume that the post above was tongue in cheek, but the fact that we have three threads on the same subject does reduce the forum’s usefulness somewhat!
TBH, I favour trackbeo’s initial post because he had the good sense to include the product name in the title. The two subsequent threads brought content and comment that should have been added to the first.
I’ll close this thread now.
Can you find a part number somewhere, search for another brand TV in which the panel is used and then find a YouTube video to explain dismantling the panel itself?
I have just dismantled the panel in a edge-lit Samsung 32″ TV to try to fix a backlighting problem. In my case it’s actually unrepairable as the light diffuser sheet is cracked giving internal reflections. If it had simply been an LED problem it would have been an easy fix, hence well worth attempting.
In the Samsung I had to disconnect a couple of ribbon connectors from the timing controller to the LCD screen, unclip all around the screen and then the LCD panel simply pulled away to expose the LED edge strip (and diffuser sheet behind).
I couldn’t find my exact model, but here’s an example of one of the many videos that I referred to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0h433tokO1U
EDIT: This video was also quite useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77tymvTJDxo
- This reply was modified 1 month ago by Guy.
Funny that I should still appear as a bronze member Guy, by the way
I’ll raise it to Keith – I think there has been a fair amount of manual input required regarding membership status on transition to the new forum.
EDIT: Now sorted thanks to Keith!
- This reply was modified 1 month ago by Guy.
Thanks guys! I will reference the schems. It’s 117v, North America version I found some circuit board pics here, too: http://lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/REFERENCES/Bangandolufsen/Bang%20&%20Olufsen%20CD5500%20CD%20player.html I see some caps and those 2 large things that look like solonoids?
The full CD5500 service manual (incl 120V US version) is available on the site for Silver and Gold members, if that helps!
Great video thanks Steve! 😀
I suspect that I have nearly as many Beocoms – lots of charity shop ‘finds’ from when I lived in Denmark! The rest of my B&O collection sadly doesn’t compare … 🙁
^ You actually only need to add V.SETUP. It will only be available when on a ‘video’ source (TV, DTV, V.MEM or DVD), hence the need for the blocking procedure mentioned above. The other sub-options (TUNE etc) are added automatically.
Hence if I add V.SETUP to one of my Beo4s, and when on a video source press LIST to show V.SETUP and then press GO. Pressing LIST again will then cycle through TUNE, PICTURE, STORE, CLEAR, BASS, TREBLE, LOUDNSS and S.STORE.
EDIT: For completeness and future reference: In a similar manner, you can add A.SETUP which (for audio sources) will give you just BASS, TREBLE, LOUDNSS and S.STORE.
- This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by Guy.
As far as I know CAMERA is not possible using BL1000. The Camera socket is suppose to ‘auto sense’ and switch to that input, but I never got that to work on my BV6-26 or 6-23.
Any chance that you could move the Nintendo to the DVI/PC input and then access using BL1000 by pressing SHIFT then STORE?
The usual mute relay symptom is that the output cuts in and out according to the load. It is caused by oxidation of the contacts rather than a purely mechanical relay problem.June 24, 2022 at 9:53 am in reply to: Pays to take more photos mystery part😔Beocenter 9500 #6122
Are you sure that it’s from the Beocenter and not another project? I don’t recognise it from having dismantled mine (but I have the earlier single-belt tape deck) and I can’t see anything similar in the Service Manual’s limited exploded parts diagram.
Have you checked the mute relay? This is usually the culprit when the speaker 2 outputs are working fine.
Some BV10-32 stand information (in English, sorry!)
As far as I know there are two ‘official’ B&O stands for the BV10-32. I have owned both.
The Type 4707 is the motorised floor stand. The top of the TV will be at 96cm from the floor, like this:
This is the stand without the TV mounted:
The other is the Type 4710 which is the motorised table stand. I used one of these on the floor initially for my BV10-32, but found it to be too low (about 20cm lower than the floor stand, from memory). Here is the one I had, but sold:
I think that STB brackets sell fixed (non-motorised) stands but they are very expensive new and rare second-hand.
I recommend the type 4707 floor stand. I have used additional brackets to attach an Apple TV to mine behind the BV10-32.
Great result – thanks for letting us know and fingers crossed that the system behaves from now on!😀
There’s no volume control on the pre-amp output, so you’ll need to find another solution. (EDIT: Actually there is volume control of pre-amp – I was thinking of line- out! Hence this should be useable for Beolabs))
Have a read of the second part of Steve’s response here: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beomaster-3000-naar-powerlink/#post-5835
You could use the speaker 2 sockets (via attenuator) for the Beolabs. Be aware that the BeoCenter’s ‘Mute’ control would only work for the speaker 1 pair in such a setup, and does not mute the ‘pre-amp’ output.
I am sure that Steve will be along in a minute to confirm the correct cables!
Looking forward plenty of “unboxing” vids!
Some of the stuff has been in boxes for 12 years (and 6 house moves!), so it will indeed be exciting to find out what’s there. When UK house prices plummet ‘🤞’ and I can afford to buy my ‘forever house’, I look forward to getting everything out and working out where to put it. 😀
Boot up time on my BV10-32 for RADIO (from BS9000 over ML – BS9000 A.OPT 0 in mainroom and BV10-32 in V.OPT 6 in linkroom) is 7 seconds. Boot up time BV10-32 for direct TV (with an old PUC connected HD Dreambox, Sat receiver) is 17 seconds. Boot up time on my BV7-40 with built in Beo HD Satreceiver is 38 sec. – with Dreambox on the same BV 17 sec. Hope this helps Stefan
Thanks for that stefan – very useful to know! 7 seconds is not too bad at all.
However, I decided to go an alternative route and got hold of a BeoSound 1 (with FM radio and CD) to solve my ‘instant’ radio requirement. It’s more than adequate for the current living room.
Prior to getting the BeoSound I was going to do some experimenting with ML cable, a BeoLink1611 and my BeoCenter 2300, but my B&O collection is currently in these boxes which aren’t labelled too well. I suspect the 1611 converter is in the box in the far corner! Far easier to buy something new!
PS: Since that photo was taken there are more (non-B&O) boxes on top and alongside!
Can’t compete with matador for stunning scenery and location, but I just got hold of this to solve my lack of FM radio in the living room:
And added the ubiquitous AE to bring it into the 20th century 😀
As MM said above. But the MCL2A does indeed get power from the Audiomaster over the MCL cable. Pin 2 (pink) provides 7.5 to 8.5 V. This is also the extra pin in the left hand speaker connection at the audiomaster.
Main Web Site, then Products, then you will see User & Service Manuals at the bottom.
Or click here: https://beoworld.org/manuals.asp
Thanks Keith – that’s very useful to know. I think that I’ll look for another solution, perhaps add a Beosound 1 (original version) to my collection!
I use 2 x digital boxes, 1 for terrestrial french tv and the other for satellite english freesat tv, both these do not have anything programmed.
My UK Freesat box (Humax) used to ‘wake up’ at 0300hrs for SW updates (channel changes etc). I am not sure how you have it connected (hdmi or SCART), and anyway B&O don’t use hdmi CEC, but I suppose there is a small chance this could be related.
Otherwise I agree with MM that the Beo4 could well be the culprit. I had one that behaved in a similar manner – working normally and then changing channels some hours later! I tried cleaning it but eventually had to replace the contact foil.