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BRONZE MemberIn the regular menus, not service menu: Settings / Base / Remove gets it off an existing base. Settings / Handset / Register gets you on a new one.
Neither my early BR1 nor my early BR1-BT does this. But I do have a speculation and a proposed “repair”:
There was a point in time when the BR1-BT firmware was using up batteries very very fast. **Maybe** a temp fix was issued to halt the bug, a “blunt instrument” of sleeping after a time. Then future firmware fixed the problem properly. Maybe you got the remote brand-new at that quick-fix moment? “Repair” would be: Force update the firmware at your dealer. Supposedly your TV will push updates to the remote, but I never understood under what conditions, and besides my TV has no Internet, so I would ask a dealer to ensure it’s up-to-date.
(Or maybe not. Hopefully someone else has relevant experience. At least updating the remote’s firmware is easy and usually low-risk.)
Ha-ha, seriously, like, “plug it in, dude!”? That’s even more fundamental than I could have imagined. But one feature belying such a scenario: The Level is battery-powered! So in theory you could unplug it and (a) it would take *hours* before it stopped playing, and (b) it would never “cut back in” again! I don’t have one at hand to test, but color me surprised if unplugging the power brick caused any glitch in the Wi-Fi reception (and thus the music) or analog pops or digital static at the moment of final power death. But regardless, please let all us Level owners know what you finally discover… Thanks!
Well, support is poking at the right issue this time, because occasional loud pops are what dropouts or delays in digital data sound like, typical of UDP packets spewed blindly on a best-efforts basis. Playing static is similarly related, and of course so is music cutting in and out, except in that case the speaker was smart enough to cease playing when the data got sparse.
Whether this is related to a networking “edge case” that excites some bug in the Level firmware not present in the Beosound 2, or more mundane networking channel interference and total airtime saturation is “left as an exercise to the reader”. But there are differences between the boards in Level & BS2, including that the BS2 supports 802.11ax but the Level is only 802.11ac (according to the spec sheets which aren’t totally reliable because: B&O). AX significantly improves performance in crowded networks over AC. Might be your case? Putting the speakers on their own VLAN like you must have done with cash registers and climate control shouldn’t help, because airtime is still finite — but if you’re grasping at straws it doesn’t cost anything to test that and/or switching channels. I’m assuming that Access Point backhauls are wired, yes? If you’re doing it wireless, you deserve what you get because latency will be highly variable. Also “auto” channel selection in any access point is a terrible idea, but you probably already know that. Nevertheless, check each WAP to make sure one didn’t slip back to that typical default configuration by accident.
Other possibilities are less likely: One thing that probably differentiates you from typical home user is that your Levels are powered up always and playing 12 hours per day. The other thing that makes you different is the number of speakers running at the same time in a particular store. So…
If the problem started on all Levels at once where before they worked OK, that would point to a firmware update bug.
If a brand-new Level taken out of the wrap-bag works fine, that would point to overheated old hardware.But those are unlikely, and I would test first with any of your existing Levels not just on Ethernet cable, but on a cable directly attached to the network/router switch at the core of your setup — merely “on Ethernet” if it’s an aux port on an access point, isn’t enough. Likewise test it reducing your Airplay group to a single speaker: You want is to “provide perfect data” to that one Level which was not working, and see if now it does. Airplay buffering isn’t perfect — I find in my (admittedly low-brow) home Wi-Fi that 3 wireless Airplay speakers (any brand) work fine, 4 is rarely OK, and 5 absolutely causes random rolling drop-outs of 1 or 2 or even 3 speakers from time to time. (Mixed AirPlay (1) and Airplay2 is also problematic, depending on the source transmitting, but supposedly all the B&O speakers now support Airplay2.)
B&O tells me its the “outdated” Airport express and I need to jump to the Core which has a better DAC….
That’s funny stuff! They should send first-level support back to wherever they did stand-up comedy routines before pretending to work at an audio company.
Instead, in 2.1 mode, turn off the 19’s LPF and flip its phase switch. (Maybe this isn’t your problem, but it’s trivial to test.) In theory, a sub’s bass in the opposite phase would cancel out the main speaker’s bass, and you’d notice decreased bass until such volume as you totally overwhelmed it with the opposite phase. Fits your description! This also corresponds to your result with the double low-pass filtering, because LPF control will alter the output phase. (Type as a question into your favorite search engine and look at the resulting diagrams or videos for an explanation.) As a second-order tweak, because phase ~= delay at low frequencies, you could experiment moving the 19 closer to or further from your listening position than the 18s. Alas, moving also messes with distance from whatever wall or corner you have placed 19 beside, further increasing or decreasing bass from room gain.
(Caveat: I also use 18s and 19, but daisy-chained with wired Powerlink cables, and no Transmitter 1. Adjusting the LPF, gain, and location of the 19 was a pain, in part because I didn’t do the time-tested method of seating the 19 in my listening chair and crawling around the floor to listen for the maximum output point. Why not? Locations were “constrained by where it looks good”. My loss.)
Used to be a “Report” button beside the “Reply” and “Quote” buttons in message header stripe?
In any case, reporting: posts #69374 & #70058 are phishing spam to hacked-android-apps sites. One userID was recently created for this single reply, and the other was… lurking for 4 years, to upload just one poisoned link?!? Remarkable persistence.
Nice, and sleek looking for the party too. Are you simply running Apple Music.app thru the MOTU M2, or something DJ-ier?
I read somewhere (here) that the charging base itself can fail and needs new capacitors in its own little circuit. (The circuit diagram says 6V but the test instructions say to expect 7V???) Hopefully that’s the problem — it’s way easier to work on the base than the remote!
[Edit: Also note service manual at leicht.io has an addendum with different battery parts, apparently differ depending on Typ.?]
^^^This. Also the screen glue & alignment isn’t always 100% from the OEM (Ruwido) so the top row of buttons can get caught underneath the edge of the display, in some samples. But @severedhand forgot to answer your direct question: Yes, it will work. There is a button translation diagram from the Beo4 on page 19 of EN_1405_BeoRemoteOne_Online_Guide.pdf, downloadable from B&O’s website of support documents.
I like its looks too! That’s always the principal reason for buying any B&O equipment IMHO. You might even be able to find a bargain for the non-BT version. But I’ll keep using my old Beolink 1000 for old systems, until it dies.
The A9 (4th-gen at least) has a 3.5mm analog/optical input jack behind the back plate near the power cord.
To avoid tethering a CD player by cable, you could remotely use an old/inexpensive M3’s line-in, then JOIN to it from the A9. See here: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-level-beoplay-m3-multiroom-with-line-in/
Ha-ha, y’all are funny (as well as harsh) — a subwoofer in less than 12 cubic inches!
It’s a desk accessory, unsure who made those (it is not the Arne Jacobsen “Cylinda” for Stelton).[Edit: oops, and wow!, see below] The subwoofer is either the black box in the left corner, or else not visible, in the footwell underneath the desk. Thumbs-up to @xschop for posting the photo in the first place, and I hope s/he takes pity on you and ID’s the cylinder!The traditional fix to “bass feels empty” is to flip the phase switch and see if that improves it.
Note this is not the true answer to your question, nor to any delays canceling out certain bass frequencies, to which B&O ORL alludes. But it may give a better-sounding few days while you work on the issue.Sparse B&O in the penthouse condo of Dubai’s “Opus” building (Zaha Hadid architect), as seen in one of Enes Yilmazer’s VHNWI residence tour videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3zCg6vU_uQ
A9 at 0:22 (& 2:13), A9 and Stage at 27:15, Theatre at 30:26. All are dwarfed by the volume of the rooms!
If the BC2300 works now with your Beo4, you do not need to change its Option (probably #1). As you have read, you need to set up the Beoremote One to send IR commands. There is no “pairing” of the remote to Beo4 Audio devices; pairing is a Bluetooth concept. It just spits out the IR codes and whatever can see them reacts. Thus your Beo4 will continue to work with the 2300. (I *only* use my BR1BT in IR mode, so I don’t know if it switches back and forth between IR and BT automatically for MUSIC vs. TV. Hopefully someone else will advise.)
Lots of B&O “Inside Lenny Kravitz’s Regal Paris Home | Open Door | Architectural Digest”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EftZvRGquA
He even gives the company a plug at 13:03.
[Slightly O.T. but nowhere else in current forums…] Sighting of B&O in “Architectural Digest” magazine: June 2024 issue, a Beosound Edge. It’s wall-mounted in a Los Angeles building rehabbed by architect Wes Jones, now a studio for designer Giampiero Tagliaferri. No product mention, only in the photos: https://www.architecturaldigest.com/gallery/tour-designer-giampiero-tagliaferris-avant-garde-la-atelier
16 August 2024 at 19:31 in reply to: Beosound Core and Beoconnect Core vs. 3rd party DAC streamers #58359[deleted]
Neither the Reference Book nor the Service Manual mention such a setting.
For USA/Canada customers, online thru June 30: 25% to 40% discounts on Beolit 20, Beosound Stage, and Beosound Balance (aluminum only):
https://www.bang-olufsen.com/en/ca/exclusive-offers
https://www.bang-olufsen.com/en/us/exclusive-offersEnter the promo code “EXCLUSIVEOFFERS”.
Gee, now I started looking, turns out there are a few of them. Who knew? (Obviously not me…) This tripod copies the A9 better, and made of ABS, ASIN= B0CZ148696 :
This one’s probably more feature-appropriate (“rubber mat to prevent walking”) but less cute:
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