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BRONZE Member
If the BC2300 works now with your Beo4, you do not need to change its Option (probably #1). As you have read, you need to set up the Beoremote One to send IR commands. There is no “pairing” of the remote to Beo4 Audio devices; pairing is a Bluetooth concept. It just spits out the IR codes and whatever can see them reacts. Thus your Beo4 will continue to work with the 2300. (I *only* use my BR1BT in IR mode, so I don’t know if it switches back and forth between IR and BT automatically for MUSIC vs. TV. Hopefully someone else will advise.)
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BRONZE MemberLots of B&O “Inside Lenny Kravitz’s Regal Paris Home | Open Door | Architectural Digest”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EftZvRGquA
He even gives the company a plug at 13:03.
BRONZE Member[Slightly O.T. but nowhere else in current forums…] Sighting of B&O in “Architectural Digest” magazine: June 2024 issue, a Beosound Edge. It’s wall-mounted in a Los Angeles building rehabbed by architect Wes Jones, now a studio for designer Giampiero Tagliaferri. No product mention, only in the photos: https://www.architecturaldigest.com/gallery/tour-designer-giampiero-tagliaferris-avant-garde-la-atelier
16 August 2024 at 19:31 in reply to: Beosound Core and Beoconnect Core vs. 3rd party DAC streamers #58359BRONZE Member[deleted]
BRONZE MemberNeither the Reference Book nor the Service Manual mention such a setting.
BRONZE MemberFor USA/Canada customers, online thru June 30: 25% to 40% discounts on Beolit 20, Beosound Stage, and Beosound Balance (aluminum only):
https://www.bang-olufsen.com/en/ca/exclusive-offers
https://www.bang-olufsen.com/en/us/exclusive-offersEnter the promo code “EXCLUSIVEOFFERS”.
BRONZE MemberGee, now I started looking, turns out there are a few of them. Who knew? (Obviously not me…) This tripod copies the A9 better, and made of ABS, ASIN= B0CZ148696 :
This one’s probably more feature-appropriate (“rubber mat to prevent walking”) but less cute:
BRONZE MemberWild guess: You bought a B&O “Aux In” cable, made to take a regular audio component into the Beosystem 7000? If that’s the case, the cable you really want has the RCA/Cinch connectors wired to a different pair of pins inside the DIN. Especially when dealing with sellers who don’t specify (e.g. amazon.com third-party) I always advise buying a 4-RCA<–>DIN cable, which was made for Tape In&Out, that way you can’t go wrong — if there’s no sound, just pick the other pair of RCA’s!
BRONZE MemberI hate to say it, @SinterKlass, but if static IP addresses doesn’t work, your next debugging step is to take all those (now) wires and hook them up to an un-managed multiport Ethernet switch, using the junky router supplied by your cable ISP (presumably?), and see if the problems go away. The switch will be super-cheap, especially as compared to your B&O equipment, and the router you already have gathering dust in a closet somewhere. The point being, flow-thru of various types of TCP packets, given the Orbis trying to minimize “useless” / “flooding” / “looping” traffic, might be restricted. Easy experiment anyway: if it’s no better, your dealer should have an simple job, subtracting one B&O device at a time.
Don’t even bother contacting The Morons. Last time I did, they started off by asking for the serial numbers of my B&O speakers, despite using the app to send the query, which of course sends them the entire system description embedded in the e-mail! Back and forth, and nothing ever gets fixed. Let your dealer deal. (Of course, if @BeoWillie is to be believed, B&O is telling them in tech notes how to get a fault-free network using… Ubiquiti equipment.)
Like @Stan, I have installed an Orbi setup with 3 nodes, and it ran a Beosound 1 and a Beosound Level together just fine. They coincidentally were using the same Orbi node, though; thus might have been the “easy case”. But also like @Stan, I had old units (RBK) and older software, and security be damned, I never updated it, not wanting to be a beta-tester.
Please update us here if static IP fixed the problem, or if non-Netgear gear worked.
BRONZE MemberEnes Yilmazer’s YouTube channel of mansion tours has posted another with at least 7 B&O TVs (2 Harmony, 2 Eclipse, 2 BV-Theatre, & 1 Contour). Bonus points if you can spot the BeoRemote 1’s: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goFsqVqQ8H8 .
One wag who comments on such videos pointed out that the Beovision Harmony is waaay too big for its place in front of a column and will form a “hazard to navigation” coming from the kitchen! What he didn’t notice is that they sped up the display opening — like they do filming motorized patio doors — because it’s much too slow for snappy video pacing.
BRONZE MemberI see no “logout” option in the Account menu drop-down once I’m logged in? If there are no “resource issues” or stale connections are terminated, then maybe this doesn’t matter. But I would have logged out as a matter of course, if I could — having an old-fashioned view of website limits.
BRONZE MemberAccording to @c-larsen, it is a converter from USB-C to ML interface, for *audio masters* only. I believe this means you can’t push the sound in the other direction to the 9000, nor can you hook the converter up to your BeoVision 10 to get sound or control it. According to @k-rasmussen, he doesn’t believe it can control the BS3200 incl. hard disk. From these 2 informed comments, I feel that either it only works for the BS9000, or if a broader view of @c-larsen’s comment is taken, then at the very least nobody has really tested it with anything else.
@k-rsmussen also said that the 9000 works in Option 0 (no ir) and the Beolab 28 or a Beoremote One can control the CD number, track, play pause, also with the MyButtons. Because ML is used, it’s analog output, not digital (not the SPDIF), so the analog input via USB-C pins as configured in the interface spec in the Beolab 28 can therefore receive A.Aux (& presumably AM/FM in the USA) as well as the CD sound.
BRONZE Member“So, I guess, where do the Beolab 18s fit into the equation? Can they connect wirelessly to the Sonos through a Sonos Port connected to a Beoconnect Core?”
Nope, for a Sonos reason: When the sound bar transmits audio to “its own paired” speakers (e.g. Sonos Sub), it does so via a proprietary 5GHz signal direct to them, so all is in sync. But transmitting to the rest of the house is done with a pretty large delay, thru their regular multi-room protocol. Thus the Port (or any other Sonos speakers not dedicated to their soundbar, which, by the way, a Port *cannot* be) would play way behind the TV sound.
Maybe try a B&O Transmitter 1 with a direct connection to the TV? I have no knowledge, whether the HDMI w/Sonos soundbar can also allow, say, headphone listening thru an analog connector. Pretty sure HDMI e-ARC prevents the use of TOSlink optical out inside the TV itself, but ask an expert instead of me. There still may be sync problems even if this works, because the Sonos soundbar still has *some* bit of delay which a different output direct to the 18s might not have. But that at least is worth asking the dealer of {TV&Sonos&B&O}.
BRONZE Member@Sandyb, Is there some way to get the “tap the top of your Beosound 1[2][A9] to start/re-start playback” with Roon? I.e. can one make a queue (own music) or playlist (Tidal) that gets auto-continued by the output device rather than by the Roon Controller? That’s principally what I use the BeocrApp for.
BRONZE MemberIn the Sonos app, the Settings tab, tap System.
Select the room with your Port, then tap Line-Out Levels and choose “Variable” instead of “Fixed” or “Pass-Thru” (you wish, be serious).BRONZE MemberHmm, a great silence here, not a good sign for your app. And claiming to have reverse engineered — what, exactly? — since B&O have *published* their control spec, seems silly. BUT that said, I *WOULD* pay for a replacement (one-time fee only, I never buy subscription apps). I assume such an app would be analogous to how “Sonopad” works versus the Sonos App: playback control plus more features, using the published spec, and leaving the adding-device / sound settings / registering / account /updates to the native manufacturer app.
A market has been created for you, by B&O themselves: Their playback interface in the new BeoApp on iOS sucks the big one. Can’t drag time slider, screen wastage for “columns” of products showing multi-room status, stealing artwork space and the godawful up-next queue, a tiny little “column” that expands into, well, another tiny little column when you click the icon, the lag in the display, etc. etc. etc. for a crappy UI — plus all the bugs people have been reporting. Who dreams up this garbage?!?!
Anyway, I wish others were more forthcoming to you in saying whether they would (or wouldn’t) buy a decent app replacement, but not holding my breath.
BRONZE MemberLow voltage like that is not a fire hazard.
Just make the mechanical connection good and tight. It’s the lazy person’s way to do it, but mild corrosion — enough to lower the IR signal — won’t occur for 5-10 years at the worst, by which time you will have upgraded something else. But you know they make tiny wire-nuts for such connections, or if you go high-tech, “Scotch-Lok” gel-filled compression connectors! The only “usual” rule is don’t bury any connections behind solid wall. Push them back into a box with a wall plate, or leave them open and running in the cabinet, whatever.
(If the time ever comes that you want to find the connections again and don’t know where you buried them, you use a telephone linesman’s tool called a “TDR” (Time Domain Reflectometer) to tell you how many feet down the wire your break (or in your case, messy splice) has occurred.)
BRONZE MemberPatents expired in 2019 (Euro) and 2022 (US).
It does address one of the shortcomings of the 6000s. Who knows how well, proof will be in the listening!
2 April 2024 at 12:19 in reply to: BM6500 / 7000 Powerlink – Attenuated Speaker or True Pre-Amp Out? #54011BRONZE MemberNovice question for the electronic experts here: Why the 100Ω resistors? Safety load to prevent shorting? Impedance matching, i.e. a dup of some 100Ω later in the amp circuit? IOW, what differentiates the amp next-door in the chassis from an amp down a few meters of cable inside the speakers? When running line-level output around the room, why would one reduce the already-low output? For that matter, I guess the same question is why you can’t hear the plugging-in of Powerlink speakers dropping the volume level to the main out speakers. Basic I’m sure, and I heard “output impedance low –> input impedance high” for line-level amps, but don’t *truly* grok else I might understand the resistors… TIA.
BRONZE MemberJust buy three (3) pairs of KEF LS60 and one (1) KEF KC92. But close your eyes when you listen. Or anytime you enter any of the three (3) rooms, for that matter.
But seriously, the answer to your actual question is at: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/vhnwi/ or any of @Sandyb’s posts on B&O’s quarterly financial reports, e.g. most recently: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/bo-releases-preliminary-q3-numbers-and-adjusts-revenue-outlook/
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