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Moderator- Is the view of this picture, the male connector from the backside (soldering side)?
It is not (as often) specified in the Service manual, sorry.
- Are the ground wires (of the input and output cables that I need to combine to the DIN), combined on PIN 2?
In my experience, they are but you may want it to be confirmed by someone else. Nevertheless, they’re is no other pin available so it must be this.
Location: Paris France
You can find an image of the upcoming soundbar by hitting ‘beosound theatre event’ in google search.
Funny, you can see it in the google search result page but now it leads to an error page!
Wouldn’t it be linked to a B&O page I would have say it’s a fake as I already said about the Stage. Seems I don’t recognize the B&O design ADN anymore…
Location: Paris France
If you connected BL3500 or 2000 to the PC2 by masterlink then ‘yes’, with limitations – it would be set up as if the Beolab was in a Link Room. You wouldn’t need an IR sensor for the PC2 because you’d put it in option 0 and control it from the BL2000/3500 – Beo4 would be fine for full control.
This is interesting: The that old saying telling A Beolab 3500 can be used standalone with a 1611 converter only is wrong?
Location: Paris France
No, that one is forbidden until I find one of those little remote too. Unable to find one for 2 or three year when you gave me the idea and still controlling volume from the outside with a “No-com” 6000!
I’m jealous and will report to moderation this post 😉
Location: Paris France
German movie “FamilienFest”
Location: Paris France
Listening to the excellent Sarah McLachlan album from 1993 tumbling towards ecstasy
Tried and liked!
Thank you Grumpy cat!
Location: Paris France
Good evening Guy,
Thank you for your extensive answer.
What I understand is that the Beoport or Beolink PC2 is usefull if you have a masterlink network and want to add a computer source.In nowadays scenarios (server music shared through wifi or computer out to speakers not using the now deprecated Beoplayer software) they are more convenient solutions.
Am I right?
Nevertheless, it made me think of a new topic idea, something like:
“Can I do something funky with all this old B&O boxes I’ve collected over the years?”
Collectors always end up having beolink boxes, lot of Masterlink devices, lot more of something-link wires and a drawers full of remotes (just in case).What do you (Guy and Forum members) think?
Location: Paris France
Hi,
I hope Guy’s answer solved your problem.
Could you please elaborate on the use pf your PC2 box? What is the use comparing, say with an airplay box or a chrome cast audio? I think this is relevant for a full masterlink setup but could it also be use as some sort of “computer aux-in”.
How can it be used without IR eye (which are quite rare)?
In a nutshell, is there any non-obvious but absolutely useful use we can’t think of?
Thank you.
Location: Paris France
Hi and welcome to Beoworld.
The Line in-Line out connector is important because it need to be bridged with a special plug for the Beocenter to make any sound. I can see the plug but if the connections are broken (obvisously they are!) it won’t work.
Maybe you can bridge the broken traces by soldering wires (maybe they’re not much) and find an trick to keep the broken pcb part in place. If you need to use the connector for Aux-In, plug the cable in, secure it with anything and let it like that taking care to not applu too much strength on that side.
Of course, Guy’s advice is the way to go but meanwhile that should work.
Location: Paris France
Hi and welcome to Beoworld.
I can’t answer your question, but what I can advise is to remove and safely store the MMC3 before going any further in your work!
Location: Paris France
However, you’ll need to control the devices manually.
Maybe I’m wrong but pin 6 and 7 not being connected he will miss the Datalink protocol and therefore, will need to control the cassette deck manually anyway, B&O or not.
Unless B&O restored the datalink protocol on the 3200?
Location: Paris France
From the BS3000 Service manual, maybe it’s the same for the 3200.
Location: Paris France
Steve, my comment was not meant to be disrespectful and not specifically aimed to the people you portrayed in you video.
Generally speaking there is a huge difference between, personnel museum or collection open to public (even if selected public) and private collections that are invisible and forgotten.
There is also a difference between the very very old items, that I reckon they must be stored and cared somewhere by instructed people and all the 80-2000’s systems that can still work and could find a home where they will do what they’re created to: sound and picture while being cared, displayed, cleaned, serviced etc…
Just a point of view.
Location: Paris France
1000, 2000, 3000, 5000… There is always a bigger fish!
Personally, I can’t see the point, the pleasure or the need for collecting (accumulating) so much items even more when they are stored away, useless and only aging without even being connected. Just above, and even thought I’m impressed by such a beautiful collection, there is enough to fill more than ten mini museum or exhibitions. Maybe they are used for that purpose, I hope so. Because if this is not the case, the only thing I can see here are systems removed from the second hand market that could be refurbished and used in enthusiasts houses.
This and (one of) the largest collection in the world of aging capacitors, rubber melt and foam rot!
Location: Paris France
Oh yes sorry, No problem at all. Screw driver or any flat head shape. They are not screws, more locks or something mounted on a spring. you just push them gently and turn them until they click in place. Not risk to break anything in there.
Location: Paris France
Hi Stoobie,
You can use the user manual for the STB Bracket stand. Although not exactly similar, the principle is the same: slot in the bottom, bolt and spacers at the top.
You have also a diagram in the service manual but I beleive you already seen it.
The holes in the BS9000 are the only ones apparent. When you hold the unit in front of the stand (or the stand below the unit) they should reveal themselves.
Hope this helps.
Location: Paris France
Replace the two silver SMD caps. If the space allows you can replace them with ordinary electrolyctic capacitors ( 22µF / 6.3Volt ).
And it worked! Now I have a remote controlled Century wreck! But I’m happy I did it.
Warm thank you RaMaBo.
Location: Paris France
I really thought it was an .stl file somewhere but I can’t find it either.
If somebody can post a rough sketch with measurement and pictures, I should be able to shape it.
Location: Paris France
Do a search on the previous forum. The 3D mesh is available for download in some topic about 3D printing. Get it and have it printed with a local 3D printing service.
Location: Paris France
has advised me for shorter 1 meter mains which have already been purchased.
Be sure they are labelled “audiophile power cord” to enjoy the full 28 experience!
(Dillen if you read us…)(Of course a joke…)
Location: Paris France
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