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BRONZE Member
I’m not sure what that circuit board’s function is as it’s markings and wiring could indicate that it is on the power amp outputs. You definitely have a defective left channel if it is reading 24v. That is also the channel associated with the R101 that you replaced. Fix the left channel first and you may find that the right channel no longer makes noise.
BRONZE MemberThe transport screws are not used to adjust the leveling and do not come out so they are not likely stripped. The screws to level are under the platter. Take a look at the service manual at https://beomanuals.com/manuals/Beogram/Beogram%205500/Beogram_5500-Service_Manual-version2.pdf for instructions.
BRONZE MemberAre you certain it was R201 3.3K ohms that was burned? I ask because that is a series input resister to the power amp IC and i can’t see it getting the current to “blow” it. If that is the resister, could it have been cracked instead? As to the noise can you describe its character. Can you check if you are getting a DC voltage on the output with the speakers disconnected?
BRONZE MemberThose were power darlington transistors. You can use BDX33A and BDX34A to replace them.
BRONZE MemberI would check the 12v supply. You may have bad caps at C3 or C4. Make sure you have a clean 12v at the solenoid. TR6 regulates the voltage to 5v for the motor so it would not cause this issue. There may be 120Hz noise on the 12v line.
BRONZE MemberBased upon Beolover’s sample, that separation was caused by force. Note that there is thin film residue to the old bond indicating that a shear force will likely be more successful than heat softening. This would call for a non-marring mallet with the platter supported thru the center hole. You could also try a .1mm stainless steel spudger to work around the edge to break the bond.
BRONZE MemberI would not try as the two pieces are bonded. Applying heat to relax the bond would damage the ribs.
BRONZE MemberChristian, I’m afraid the 8002 had a different bearing yet again as it was a different drive system.
BRONZE MemberI believe the confusion is due to the 4002 having two different bearings. The earlier 5503 types had the platter from the 4000 which had a ball and thrust pad. Yours is the later one which had a lighter but larger black subplatter and only used a centered point. In any case, there does not appear to be anything missing.
30 May 2022 at 18:04 in reply to: Beolab 4000 vs Beovox CX 100 – which one is the better solution? #35166BRONZE MemberAre you sure about the models you are comparing? The CX100 is a passive speaker and the 4000 is active.
BRONZE MemberHope your son appreciates it!
BRONZE MemberI would check the 7V power supply section around TR19 and C10. If the fuse that was bad was T1A for the 5v supply there may be and issue with IC4 circuit or its zener.
BRONZE MemberI don’t know what you mean by “servo noise”. If you mean 120hz buzz then it’s likely a power supply cap problem. As for the 45 sod are you seeing a variable freq on pin 1?
BRONZE MemberIf you have access to an oscilloscope you should find a 500Hz sine wave on P1 of the motor connector when the speed is set to 33. It’s possible that the motor control chip has been damaged. Check the schematic available at https://beomanuals.com/manuals/Beogram/Beogram%202402/Beogram_2402-Schematics.pdf. While its a different model it uses the same motor control circuit.
BRONZE MemberYour problem is not likely an electronic one but a mechanical one. There is a muting switch under the tonearm that is activated by the arm movement. It likelly needs its contacts cleaned. The service manaul is at https://beomanuals.com/manuals/Beocenter/Beocenter%207700/Beocenter_7700-Service_Manual.pdf. The part is 1567 in the parts list but the diagram marks it as 1557. You open it by removing screws in the rear and it hinges from the front.
BRONZE MemberI would not hold my breath given that B&O is out of the turntable business. You might try contacting Rudy over at https://beolover.blogspot.com/2015/01/beogram-40024004-apple-remote-controls.html and see if you can convince him to come up with an 800x version. I have the one for my 4004.
BRONZE MemberYour BeoSound stage manages remote commands only via BT, HDMI or Ethernet and your 8002 needs a wired datalink signal coming from a Master system. From my knowledge your BeoSound does not have a source Master system interface nor do those ML and MCL components. The Master system is what decodes the output of your Beoremote One IR commands into the datalink control signals the 8002 receives via its DIN connector.
The other issue you have is that you need to get the DL signal into a Master system component which do not pass through your phono preamp as they have their own DIN signal pins.
BRONZE MemberExcellent work. Having done something similar for the Beogram 4002/4 series and GRado Signature carts(which I sold many in the 80’s), I fully appreciate the time and effort. I am confused by your statement that the cartridge is sealed in the shell as from your pictures you have omitted the cartridge body and its 4 pins that plug into the arm and are only displaying the SP stylus shell. In my case I re-wired the tonearm and built a special socket receptor for the pins. I don’t see any cartridge pins in your pics, hence the question.
BRONZE Member95GU55 or 95GU56 should work fine as replacements for the PU51.
BRONZE MemberIn the bottom cover there are two holes that adjust the set down point for 7” and 12” records. It is easiest to place it on a stand or supports so that you can watch the arm without having to constantly flip it. If your bottom does not have the holes then you will need to remove the 4 corner screws and remove it first. These eccentrics should be marked and are in the from of the cam gear.
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