[Mark-sf]

The symptom that’s troubling is that you are observing the problem in both channels but still getting a signal. I would next try Martin‘a suggestion of recording on the 9000 and playing back on another machine. This would help identifying  the defective section.

[Mark-sf]

In your description of work performed you said nothing about the tape heads. Have you cleaned them, checked for wear, and adjusted them?

[Mark-sf]

That type of damage is typically caused by overheating which can be the result of any of the following or in combination:

1. clipping an amp into the speaker
2. if the series capacitor, C2 was too large or shorted
3. if the parallel resistor, R6 is open.

[Mark-sf]

Glitch wrote:

Are B&O and Sound-Smith the only sources of compatible cartridges? I suspect that other sources are unlikely, but wanted to ask to be sure. Thanks, Glitch

Actually, B&O has not been a source for years and are even using a Sound-Smith in the 95th Anniversary Limited Edition 4000c.

On the used market your best bet would be for a non-working table with the cartridge intack as that will likely be cheaper and you can even part out the table to pay for it.

[Mark-sf]

Unless you can find an MMC4 used your best bet is Sound-Smith SMMC4: https://sound-smith.com/cartridges/bo/smmc4 at $200.

[Mark-sf]

I would agree with Martin but initially focus on tracking force if the diamond is still intact based upon your transporting without locking the screws.

[Mark-sf]

Assuming you have tried it with multiple tapes, I would contact the seller as its obviously not in “superb condition”.

[Mark-sf]

Since you are able to play using the < key, the issue is in the << electronic switch. I have found TR12 to be bad though rarely its been TR11. Also I have found TR8 to be bad on the muting board; however, in that case it tries to start and shuts off immediately.

[Mark-sf]

Unfortunately,  there is no industry standard for 12” record weight. They can range from 80-200g. I have never had a problem finding a suspension height that will work with all without bottoming or scrapping. In the end it’s critical that the platter also remain level.

[Mark-sf]

The service manual provides clearance specifics so I would adjust to that with your 180g records.

[Mark-sf]

Check the rear of the tonearm’s clearance with the record edge.

[Mark-sf]

I would still suspect the muting contacts. They should be cleaned and adjusted as per the service manual available at https://beomanuals.com/manuals/Beogram/Beogram%204000/Beogram_4000-Service_Manual.pdf.

[Mark-sf]

Check out the service manual available at beomanuals.com.

[Mark-sf]

Glad to see you are making progress. Are you able to start the turntable using the < key to move the arm inward? Does it stay or want to go back and shut off?

[Mark-sf]

There are some major issues there that can only be explained by one or more errors in your parts replacement. Pressing 33 should ONLY cause the platter to rotate and not move the arm. It is a “clean record” function. ON should cause the collector of TR12 to latch high (17v). If pressing 33 is causing that then I would carefully check your diode orientations as you may have one in backwards or a shorted one. The slow return could also be your pulley alignment, lubrication or servo belt.  If it is running at the same speed as “>” then once again there may be a diode/trans issue. This is when TR13 should latch high. Finally, don’t forget to check D9/10 and TR8 on the muting board as they perform the same functions.

[Mark-sf]

To do a fair comparison I would still connect the 3500 directly to the 28s.

[Mark-sf]

You likely have a shorted transistor in the On portion of the electronic sw. Check TR13 if I remember correctly. There is also a companion on the muting board for the remote.

[Mark-sf]

First, which RIAA preamp are you using?  I would definitely try a direct connection to the line in of your BL28’s bypassing the Moment.

[Mark-sf]

Yes that is what I meant. I do see that Martin has an 8002 Cap kit at https://www.beoparts-shop.com/product/capacitor-kit-beogram-6006-8000-8002/. I have gotten parts quickly from him in the US.

[Mark-sf]

You can’t get a “set”. You need to get a cap kit that includes all the values you need. These kits are available on Amazon, DigiKey, Mouser, etc. Only do the electrolytics (the cylindrical ones) first as they are the most likely culprits. Don’t forget the 47mF on the CPU board.

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