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Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberFirst, was the plater on when you tried this? If not, try it with? If that does not work, try pressing Stop instead of >>- what happens?
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberI’m glad to see you’ve got it working. our comment about every 5 revolutions is incorrect, According to B&O’s calibration procedure, the servo motor shutter should be adjusted to cause the servo motor to run every 2-3 revolutions.
The first picture is definitely a damaged diamond and will do damage to your records which is why you should be diagnosing and testing with a record you don’t care about.
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This reply was modified 2 weeks, 3 days ago by
Mark-sf.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberAll of that type of information that is available is in the service manual. The schematic will show how it works, If you do not understand the operation from it then let us know the specific problem you are having.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberThe speciations are at the end is the service manual.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberYes you should perform that adjustment and no you do not need a test record.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberThe click you are hearing is the muting relay and independent of the solenoid.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberThe extra pins in the DIN connector are for a datalink connection allowing the remote control from the receiver to control the turntable. Those pins can be unscrewed from the Beogram ouput dim. If there are no holes for them, likely the cable has been changed and perhaps grounded incorrectly. Pin 2 is the audio ground and should have continuity to the DIN connector shield and the chassis of the 8002.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberI gave those to you already.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberPlatters also come up for sale quite frequently in various marketplaces, ranging from USD $50 to $100. In the mean time, you might consider milling two solid discs with a diameter of 10cm each. Place a layer of rubber on the bottom one for a bit of grip. Place the bottom disc on the spindle with the rubber facing up, next the record, last the top disc as a weight to hold the record in place and level to the bottom disc surface. You might need to make the top disc a bit heavier to provide additional stability. I haven’t tried this myself, but I feel like it would work fine, provided it is balanced properly, and can compensate for the 1.5g of downward pressure provided by the tone arm.
This is really not a good idea. First, the record need full support underneath which is 300mm. Secondly, for this motor design the correct weight is very important as there is a tight servo loop and additional weight can cause undesirable rotational inertia. Finally, the MMC1-4 cartridges tracked at 1.0 to 1.2 grams.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberThe platter diameter is 300mm and the height is 24 mm; however, it was not a solid piece of aluminum as it was cast with the underside hollowed out. I believe the weight was around 1.5kg but was never published. A solid piece would be too heavy at about 4.6kg. This would require you to remove about 16.mm of material except for a 1-2mm outside edge. For this motor design it’s essential for the platter to be light weight as the servo system with its ~200mm rotor would be impaired by the higher inertia of a typical direct drive platter. You would also need to stencil the black ribs. The black rotor that supported the turntable platter was part of the motor. Do you have that?
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberThere is no possibility to pick a single song.
22 May 2026 at 03:26 in reply to: Beogram 4002 platter motor running too fast — 55 RPM at 33 setting #123704 Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberI have not seen this type of malfunction and I would suspect it may be related to how you reassembled the motor. This is because it generates the frequency that ultimately governs the speed. Unfortunately that can’t be confirmed without an oscilloscope or a frequency meter. You can get a multimeter that measures frequency for under $50 (as well as capacitance), so I suggest its a good investment if your current one is inadequate.
21 May 2026 at 20:40 in reply to: Beogram 4002 platter motor running too fast — 55 RPM at 33 setting #123701 Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberFirst, I would check all of the voltages around the 1IC3 and the 8.5V at P1 Pin 3. While you’ve replaced the electrolytics, sometimes the tantalums can also fail. If you have a scope or frequency meter you can check the feedback frequency of P1-1 which should be 125Hz for 33 and 167 for 45. Now all of this pertains to the DC gold motor.
If you have the older AC silver motor then the frequencies are 42.3 and 57.3 respectively at 5V AC. You should have also changed the 4000mf motor cap. You should also get 11.4VDC on its transistor side.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberYes there is though not inexpensive at https://www.designedav.com/connect-bo-turntable-to-modern-systems. You can make one yourself with 7-Pin DIN male and female connectors where the L/R signal uses male RCA connectors to connect to an external phono preamp and pins 6 & 7 are directly connected with a wire between bypassing the preamp.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberB&O does not produce an external phono preamp for its turntables, but there are many out there depending on your country. Here in the US but available internationally, a particular fine one is the Schiit Mani. As to repair ability between the 7000, 6500, and 5500, they are equivalent as they share many of the same parts. It was the 5000, I would not bother with.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberThe Beogram 6500 or 7000 would be your best choice since it came with the phono preamp built in. Otherwise, it is the same as the 5500, which would require an outboard preamp. I would avoid the 5000 which is older.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberThe answer is unchanged. Follow the procedure in the linked manual or video.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberYou should realize with a cartridge likely over 30yrs old and and obvious suspension issue and unknown diamond wear, that you are likely doing damage to your records which may in total be more valuable.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberI’m afraid it does. You are not likely to be able to get it rebuilt, but Soundsmith sells an SMMC4 for $230 as a replacement. They are reputable.
Mark-sf
BRONZE MemberI would first check to make sure that at rest, cued up, the stylus is centered. If it is, then the shutter is misadjusted. You may see evidence of that when the arm is cued down, in that the tonearm moves a bit laterally instead of dropping straight down. When the belt is off, and the arm is cued down on a record, it should drop straight and then not move for 2-3 revolutions of the record.
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This reply was modified 2 weeks, 3 days ago by
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