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BRONZE MemberYou will need to open the top and remove the front panel as if I remember the switch assemblies are board mounted. Once you have access, you can see what is hanging up the interlock mechanism.
Yes it is.
Diodes like transistors typically cannot be measured without being removed as you are measuring resistance of their circuit.
When I have painted aluminum I’ve used a self-etching primer. However, you obviously are going to need to remove the old paint first which may need to be sanded. Given the dings, that’s probably required along with a filler If you have a paint booth for your air sprayer that’s how I’d try. Nice DIY project if you take your time.
Glad it worked out. I don’t know about a new string but belts and other spare parts are reliably available from https://www.beoparts-shop.com/. If you can’t find the “string” you can make a new one using tuning dial cord.
It’s likely that the tensioned string that moves the arm has broken or come untracked. There are instructions at the end of the service manual at https://beomanuals.com/manuals/Beogram/Beogram%209500/Beogram_9500-Service_Manual-version2.pdf
on replacing and adjusting.
I am having trouble parsing the symptoms you are reporting. In normal operation, simply pressing start momentarily will cause the tonearm to move to the edge of the record and lower. If you press and hold then it will continue past that point until you release. Pressing 33 should just cause the turntable to spin for cleaning without the arm moving. If it is then you may have a shorted transistor in the servo motor control section. You can see a table of voltages on the schematic available at (removed reference to external manual)
If you are referring to the resisters in the lower right where the board is darkened, those are 1/4w resistors which are typically 6.5mm in length. You will not find a replacement parts kit that includes standard resistors. I would check their values with a meter as even though the board is discolored most are probably fine when the resistor itself is not blackened in the middle.
There are small knurled knobs under the black trim aligned with the speed indicators.
From your picture it is missing the veneer. Quite frankly I was never a fan of that motor but you have nothing to loose in trying to relubricate it. Cannot comment on how long it will last. I would also have the stylus checked for wear as you don’t want to be damaging your records.
To answer that we are going to need a bit more information.
- Does the noise vary with volume and turn off when muted?
- Putting your ear to each driver (tweeter and woofer), do you hear the noise only from one or both? Note that the tone will be different.
IC1 is a voltage regulator and the operation is the same in that it is being turned off by the SO switch grounding the anode of D5. I would confirm that is occurring.
If the 1200 has the phono preamp then you would connect to an AUX/CD/Tape input on your Marantz. If not you go into Phono making sure MM is selected versus MC if your Marantz has this. Either the stylus or its suspension may have worn out which is not surprising after 40+ years. Finding a replacement will be costly or lucky.
Welcome to the forum. First, I would check that your cartridge stylus force is adjusted properly. It should be 2 grams. You will need a stylus force gauge as I don’t believe there were calibrated markings. If this does not solve your problem, I would check whether yours as the phono card plugged into the bottom. If it does then this could be at fault. Which inputs are you using on your Marantz?
No, a TR is not an IC. You will need to trace the circuit but you have the SO switch as a reference. Just follow its high side.
Does the turntable motor keep spinning as well as the lamps stay lit? If so, you still have an active 22.8v rail and OTR1 is not turning off. Is the anode of 1D1 grounded when this occurs?
I was referring to the switch marked “SO” that is on the Arm Transport PC board. This keeps the TT off when the arm has returned to rest. Sometimes the optical bar can be misadjusted in its engagement of the switch or it can be dirty as its contacts are exposed. As to D1, I am referring to the diode that is between a 2.2K resistor and the base of TR1. I highly doubt it changed for your type.
I’m afraid you are not going to find a new one. Your best bet would be to find a used non-working 3404 with a reasonably clean cover, that you could then part out to recover some or all of your cost.
25 September 2022 at 18:31 in reply to: How can I operate a Beogram 8002 with a Beoremote One #34980Sorry, I don’t have experience with the Beolink products that came later to answer.
For a start all of the electrolytics should be replaced, Thes are the cylindrical (horizontal or vertical ones) paying attention to their polarity. I would also clean and check the alignment of the switch that is activated by the optical rail when it returns to rest. This should be grounding the base of TR1 via diode D1.
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