[Madskp]

A little input that might get you further.

The SMD electrolytic capacitors (canned style) are fairly easy to remove by twisting them with a pair of tweezer while at the same time pushing in against the PCB. With this method the legs will separate from the can, and the risk of ripping PCB traces are minimal. Afterwards the legs can be desoldered from the PCB.

Soldering in new SMD electrolytic cap on the other hand is a pain in the *** as the legs are underneath the cap, and there is almost no place to get the tip of a soldering iron in. I did it on my Ouverture laser PCB, but would go another way today.

The alternative could maybe be ceramic SMD caps. I have seen retro computer entuisiasts use them instead of electrolytic caps on old computer PCB’s.

What I dont know is if you would loose any properties of the electrolytic cap which might be essential in this circiut, and if you can get any in the correct value.

But the SMD ceramic cap would be far easier to solder on in my opinion

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Next step is to check the damaged traces for continuity and clean up the areas with corrosion and check them for damage. Might not have time for that before sometime next week though.

I will also order a new super capacitor, although I wonder if I should go with a 3300uf electrolytic capacitor instead.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I removed the super capacitor to inspect below it. I thought it might be best to cut it off and just desolder the legs, but unfortnuatly I might have caused damage to some traces beneath the super capacitor while cutting

However the leakage did not seem to have affected this area.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I decided to take it apart to inspect the super capacitor and just as expected behind the plastic foil it was crusty, and had leaked to components below it (over it at the picture) causing corrosion

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Given that we might have the solution for this issue I took the plunge and bought a relativly cheap V1 announced as non working with the symptom not reacting to the remote, and the green dioade ligtning up when connected to power.

Fantastic enough when I got this home and connected it to power and my home network via the ethernet connection I was able to find it with the B&O app, turn it on with picture, and controlling everything with the app. No reaction to remote control though as expected.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Then the MCL2A will be a great opotunity to make use of some of those passive speakers.</p>
Jus to clarify, the BL3500 is not dependent on the MCL2A or MCL2AV, but can coexist in the same MCL network

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

On CharlieWednesday said

If I understand it correctly however the MCL2AV has no passive speaker outputs, so if I wanted to use the passive Beovox speakers I already have, I would also need a Beolink passive amp – am I right?

They actually have passive speaker output, but hose can only be used if you program it to work as a MCL2A, and thereby missing all the extra features.

But yes an amp like, MCL2P, Beolink Passive, or ML/MCL converter (the same product as the Beolink passive with another name) can be used for this and will power on/off via powerlink (a Powerlink MK2 fully wired cable is needed).

 

 

On CharlieWednesday said

I’m actually looking for a solution for a large, odd shaped room rather than multiroom.  I had considered getting a Beolab 3500 but that would require a 1611 converter and they appear to be difficult to get hold of (you helped me with that advice too, in fact!), so this is me looking for another solution.

If you are already thinking in MCL terms the BL3500 MK1 could also do. One of the versions of the MCL handbook has this description for odd shaped rooms, sounding a lot like what you want to do

One note regarding the MCL2AV. More than often a power supply is missing for it. If used with a MCL2P it can get power from that, but else you need a separate power adapter. The polarity in this adapter is non standard, so negative is the inner pin and positive is the outer pin, so be carefull as using a wrong polarity power supply can cause damage.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

On CharlieWednesday said

I would like the same or similar for my BC8500, and I think the MCL2A is the right thing for that, but before I go buying one on eBay, can anyone tell me if I am right!?

Thats right. The MCL2A is very similar to the MCL30 with a IR eye and a relay box in the link room.

On CharlieWednesday said

Also the MCL2a would allow me to have passive speakers connected and I do have 3 pairs of Beovox passives to choose from, but is there a similar option to connect Beolab actives in a second room, and control them in that room?

The MCL2AV can do that. Where as the MCL2A is just a “simple” relay for turning on or off the speakers and a link eye for controlling the main room system the MCL2AV is far more advanced.

The MCL2AV has powerlink outputs that can be volumen controlled individually from the other rooms (the MCL2A just follows the volume in the main room). Also the MCL2AV has local inputs, so it is possible to connect a B&O CD player and a Tape recorder and control them in the link room, but also have acces to the sources in the main room. A Beovision TV with datalink (only CRT TV’S) or Masterlink via a Beolink converter 1611  can also be connected to the MCL2AV and the speakers in the TV can be used instead of powerlink speakers. The MCL2AV has also been sold under names like X-tra active speaker kit and X-tra TV kit where the latter did not have an IR eye. The IR eye used by the MCL2A and MCL2AV is BTW the same.

If you choose to go this route you are not locked by using old technology. If you choose at one point to replace the Beocenter 8500 with something newer you can do that with a ML/MCL converter.

I can highly recommend looking at the Masterlink Control Handbook that should be available via Google search (Beoworld also has a lot of documentation about the MCL2 system, but it is not available at this time because of the upgrade of the site)

Hope this help you. Feel free to ask more questions, I have been spending a lot of time in the MCL2 rabbit hole 🙂

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Ok very interesting that both the Avant and the Beosystem 4 has a 3300uF electrolytic capacitor instead of the 0.22F super capacitor.

I can see that Beoplay V1 is from 2012, Beosystem 4 from 2013 and Beovision Avant from 2014, so it makes sense that a component is changed in newer product lines. Wheether it is because the super capacitor was causing trouble already at that time or if it was just a cost cutting measure is a good question.

But thanks for the pictures

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

On jacek1313 said

BeoSystem 4 boards already use a 3300uF capacitor.

Just to be sure, was this mounted by you or do you think it was mounted from the factory?

I am not sure how the 3300uF capacitor can replace a 0.22F super capacitor, but maybe someone can enlighten me?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

A good example of why preventive battery (super capacitor in this case) replement is a good idea

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beoplay-v1-not-turning-on/page/2/#post-55567

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

On jacek1313 said

I don’t have any photos. I cleaned the PCB under the capacitor to bare copper, soldered the paths with thin wires and covered them with PVB varnish.

Thanks for clarifying. And great that  there might be a relativly easy fix (depending on ones skills of trace repair). Maybe by studying the PCB layout it is possible to find some spots that could be connected by a wire instead of the PCB repair.

But this new info tells me that it might be easier to replace the super capacitor before it leaks to prevent PCB damage.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

To add to this, what about Google indexing? So far, seen from my point of view, it has been easier to find old threads via Google search than the internal search function. It would be a shame is this indexing was lost.

just my 2 cents

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

On jacek1313 said

Hello, in my case the electrolyte from the damaged supercapacitor damaged the PCB paths that ran under it. I could barely solder them.
One of them is the signal from the IR module to the FEP IC300 processor.

Thanks for chiming in with this very relevant info. This info suddenly makes it very clear why a leaking backup capacitor can make the IR function of the TV not work.

Also based on the corrosion we have seen on the pictures of the super capacitor earlier in this thread it sounds very belivable that this could leak down on the PCB.

Would you happen to have any pictures of the damage and/or your repair of the PCB?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

2) could also be replace in any case to prevent battery leakage.

But as Guy notes the batteri condition can vary much dependent on the use of the product

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

On Madskp said

Another thing I have mentioned before and found a temporary solution for is the view of recent topics.

I know you can see the last 5 post on the main page of the foums, but if you have been away for a few days and want to catch up on forum activity you will have to browse arround a lot instead.

For a while it was possible to find some view options in a top bar like: Topic freshness whis is my favorite view.This seems to have disappeered now though.

Would it be possible to ad links to these views, maybe in the main forum page where you have the 5 topics and the link could be called “more” or something like that?

Thanks in advance

For now I have saved a link to topic freshness that can also be usefull for others

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/view/topics-freshness/

Just ignore this. I obviously was not looking good enough on the forum main page. Sorry for the incinvinience

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

3) Replace when you allready have it open for belt replacing etc.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Another thing I have mentioned before and found a temporary solution for is the view of recent topics.

I know you can see the last 5 post on the main page of the foums, but if you have been away for a few days and want to catch up on forum activity you will have to browse arround a lot instead.

For a while it was possible to find some view options in a top bar like: Topic freshness whis is my favorite view.This seems to have disappeered now though.

Would it be possible to ad links to these views, maybe in the main forum page where you have the 5 topics and the link could be called “more” or something like that?

Thanks in advance

For now I have saved a link to topic freshness that can also be usefull for others

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/view/topics-freshness/

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Browsing a little arround the forum I noticed that the order of the posts in this thread is messed up https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-1612-s/

The starting post come as number three post.

Dont know if this is s general problem, but just want to give a heads up.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Here is the link to the old thread about repainting the BV8. https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/21214.aspx

All picture links are dead though.

The thread also mentions mechanical scraping, but I would suggest starting testing with the IPA

Location: Denmark

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