[Madskp]

A good example of why preventive battery (super capacitor in this case) replement is a good idea

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beoplay-v1-not-turning-on/page/2/#post-55567

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

On jacek1313 said

I don’t have any photos. I cleaned the PCB under the capacitor to bare copper, soldered the paths with thin wires and covered them with PVB varnish.

Thanks for clarifying. And great that  there might be a relativly easy fix (depending on ones skills of trace repair). Maybe by studying the PCB layout it is possible to find some spots that could be connected by a wire instead of the PCB repair.

But this new info tells me that it might be easier to replace the super capacitor before it leaks to prevent PCB damage.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

To add to this, what about Google indexing? So far, seen from my point of view, it has been easier to find old threads via Google search than the internal search function. It would be a shame is this indexing was lost.

just my 2 cents

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

On jacek1313 said

Hello, in my case the electrolyte from the damaged supercapacitor damaged the PCB paths that ran under it. I could barely solder them.
One of them is the signal from the IR module to the FEP IC300 processor.

Thanks for chiming in with this very relevant info. This info suddenly makes it very clear why a leaking backup capacitor can make the IR function of the TV not work.

Also based on the corrosion we have seen on the pictures of the super capacitor earlier in this thread it sounds very belivable that this could leak down on the PCB.

Would you happen to have any pictures of the damage and/or your repair of the PCB?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

2) could also be replace in any case to prevent battery leakage.

But as Guy notes the batteri condition can vary much dependent on the use of the product

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

On Madskp said

Another thing I have mentioned before and found a temporary solution for is the view of recent topics.

I know you can see the last 5 post on the main page of the foums, but if you have been away for a few days and want to catch up on forum activity you will have to browse arround a lot instead.

For a while it was possible to find some view options in a top bar like: Topic freshness whis is my favorite view.This seems to have disappeered now though.

Would it be possible to ad links to these views, maybe in the main forum page where you have the 5 topics and the link could be called “more” or something like that?

Thanks in advance

For now I have saved a link to topic freshness that can also be usefull for others

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/view/topics-freshness/

Just ignore this. I obviously was not looking good enough on the forum main page. Sorry for the incinvinience

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

3) Replace when you allready have it open for belt replacing etc.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Another thing I have mentioned before and found a temporary solution for is the view of recent topics.

I know you can see the last 5 post on the main page of the foums, but if you have been away for a few days and want to catch up on forum activity you will have to browse arround a lot instead.

For a while it was possible to find some view options in a top bar like: Topic freshness whis is my favorite view.This seems to have disappeered now though.

Would it be possible to ad links to these views, maybe in the main forum page where you have the 5 topics and the link could be called “more” or something like that?

Thanks in advance

For now I have saved a link to topic freshness that can also be usefull for others

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/view/topics-freshness/

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Browsing a little arround the forum I noticed that the order of the posts in this thread is messed up https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-1612-s/

The starting post come as number three post.

Dont know if this is s general problem, but just want to give a heads up.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Here is the link to the old thread about repainting the BV8. https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/21214.aspx

All picture links are dead though.

The thread also mentions mechanical scraping, but I would suggest starting testing with the IPA

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

An example of coating removal is shown in this post

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-2-buying-considerations/#post-52544

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Congrats on the “new” TV. I had one of these before I got my current Beoplay V1, and remember it as being a great TV.

I have tried to remove the sticky coating on a Beocenter 2, Beosound 4 andBeosound 5.

I have used 99% isopropyl alcohol (because thats what I have), but the 70% might also work fine.

I use toilet paper for the rubbing, I would not suggest to reuse cloths after this use.

My experience is that you have to go over the same spot 3-4 times to get it right, but results may vary.

The surface will get another look, but in case of the Beocenter 2 and the Beosound 5 it was ok (in my opinion) and the coating is only on the bottom part, so not as noticeable as it might be on a BV8.

On the Beosound 4 my experience was that it was more sticky than the other two units, and it became more plastic like to look at. On this unit I also noted that if I rubbed to much I would get down to the bare plastic which did not look good.

So The coating might be different on that unit.

My best advice would be to make a little test spot on the back or the bottom (not really sure if it has coating on the bottom) to see if you are ok with the look.

But be prepared to use a lot of hours for this job because of the size.

Btw I remember an old thread probably on one of the archived forums where a member removed the coating on a BV8 and repainted it in purple I think, so there is also an option.

Good luck with the project

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Sound like a good idea.

When you place the BL3500 in the same room you can choose to program it to option 4 where it will only react to Link commands. That way you can choose wheeter or not you want the BL3500 to play

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I have now tested with my Beocenter 9300 and a Beolab 3500.

With the Beolink Converter 1611 everything works as it should.

With the Beolink Converter 1614 nothing works. The 1614 converter does not supply power to the Masterlink network.

Therefore a 1611 converter is needed if it is the Masterlink Route you take.

If you choose to go the MCL way a cable pinout is available here (These pages has not been reestablished at Beoworld, so linking to the internet Archive) https://web.archive.org/web/20220624064632/https://www.beoworld.org/beotech/wiring1.htm

Not that the whirring is shown for a wall plate so you have to be sure to use the right PIN numbers on the Din plug.

The pink wire is power, and is not used in the Beolab 3500, so you do not have to solder it to the plug, but keep it isolated so it does not short circuit.

 

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hi again

The NL/ML converter is for converting between Masterlink and the newer netlink products, so won’t work in your case.

A Beolink converter type 1614 might work, I can test that tomorrow and report back

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

First of there is both a MKI and an MKII version of the Beolab 3500

Both versions have Masterlink.

Beolab MKI (serial numbers are lower than 19343452) has an 8 pin connector on the back marked MCL and can be used with the Master Control Link system

Beolab MKII  (serial number 19343452 and up) has an 8 pin connector often refered to as powerlink on the back, but according to the servicemanaul for BL3500 MKII only intended for use with Beolink Wireless 1 (W1). I have done several tests in another thread that also suggest that this connction can only be used for this purpose, and not function as a normal powerlink speaker.

With your Beocenter 8500 I see two options:

1. Get a Beolink converter type 1611 which connects to the AUX port on the Beocenter 8500 and converts it to masterlink. This way you can connect both MKI and MKII Beolab 3500, and you have also the option to add other zones with Beolink Active, Passive or the Beolab 2000.
2. Use the Speaker 2 connection on the Beocenter 8500 to make a MCL network to a Beolab 3500 MKI, it will not work for a MKII. To do this you have to use the thick 7 wire MCL cable, speaker connectors with 3 legs, and have an 8 PIN DIN connector mounted in the BL3500 end. You might be able to get some MCL cable with connectors mounted secondhand, but else it will be a DIY job. Since the MCL connection is from a speaker output it is depending on the volume from the Beocenter 8500. The BL3500 has some compensation for this, but it is not optimal.

I would suggest you go with option 1 as this is the more modern way of doing things, and you have more options to add more zones in the future.

As for the ML/MCL converters. Those will not work for this setup. They are for connecting a Beomaster/Beocenter/Beosound with Masterlink to a MCL installation, so a way to add a more moderne main room system without replacing existing link rooms.

Hope this helps, and fell free to ask more if in doubt

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

A little of topic. For B&O datalink compatible Bluetooth receivers I can highly recommend Pilatomics project Beotooth 5500 https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beotooth-5500-a-datalink-bluetooth-receiver/#post-50219 if you haven’t stubled upon that yet. I have bought one myself and is very satisfied with it.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I do not have experience with Bosscom, but do know that some Danish shops do have some of their products, although mostly cables and cable covers like this https://www.av-connection.com/?Brand=3

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I am experiencing some thread which I can find I my topics, or search and find (the search functionality works again 🙂 ) but when I go to the thread I only get the headline like this:

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Never had the opportunity to open a BS9000, so can’t comment on which type of capacitors is used.

But even though it might be SMD caps you should be able to replace these with “regular” caps (maybe lying down instead of standing) if space allows it on the PCB, and there is enough height available.

Guy had succes replacing SMD caps with regular caps on his BC2300 CD laser PCB. It was in my BS Ouverture repair thread, but for some reason that thread is not available right now .

Location: Denmark

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