[Madskp]

Great to know that it is repairable 😀

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

matador wrote:

Jealousy…

understandably judging by the prices on used B&O you have mentioned in other posts 🙂

matador wrote:

Madskp wrote:

As for the BC5000 it is completly dead,

Nothing B&O is ever “completly dead”, maybe the Beosound 3 and still, not always. Correct your post unless I will have to moderate it!

Let’s call it dead on arrival then 😉

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

An excellent find – I am looking forward to hearing about lots of experiments with your new acquisitions, in particular the Video Link 1

I was also a little curious about that. I looks like it can send datalink signals between TV’s with datalink capability through the antenna cable, and that way a local room (I guess that means Link room in modern terms) can control the VCR in the main room. Clearly something for the MX and LX line of Beovisions, but might not be very usefull today. I will save it though if an idea pops up.

Guy wrote:

The DVD2 is a fantastic piece of engineering but just so very complicated in use – I had one for a while but gave it away free when I sold my BC6-23.  I now just use the far simpler DVD1.

It’s actually a HDR2, so again a thing that might not make much sence for modern TV’s. I will hook it up to the BC6 and test it though.

Guy wrote:

What’s the plan with the Playmaker?  (The main reason that I keep mine is in case I want to use the aux-in auto-sense to trigger PL speakers, perhaps for a non-B&O TV)

It is the autosense function I was going for, and might be primarely used in test setups

 

Btw. I have teted the 2 Beolab 3500. One is software 2.0 and is working, but the bass driveres are damaged. The other one is software 1.0. I ca not get it to activate my Ouverture, but it says ML is ok. But the SW 1.0 was also not fully working with Masterlink, so that might make sense.

As for the BC5000 it is completly dead, and the CD50 is ejecting the CD when I try to play one. It might be a small reapir.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I was in the market for a Playmaker when I stumbled upon this deal for ~150€

All untested so have to see how good of a deal it was, but there might be some working parts between. A bonus is the Beolab 3500 table stand on one of the BL3500’s which seems to be almost unobtanium

From top to bottom:

Beogram CD50

Beocord 5000

Playmaker

2 x Beolab 3500 MK1

Beolit 505

Beolit 707

MCP 6500

Beocom 6000 MK1 with extra handset

4 x MCL2AV

MVL2A

LC2

HDR2

2 x BL1000

Video Link 1

Beolink Passive

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I’m not sure it’d work now anyway – out of curiosity I connected the BL3500 directly to the BV8 TV via Masterlink, and although it is clearly connected (the display on the BL3500 shows ‘TV’ or ‘SAT’ and so on, depending on the TV source selected), I still get no clock, and no sound out of the BL3500.  Probably a setting I’m not getting right where the sound is concerned, but I’m guessing that if the clock were going work, it would just work.

I would have expected the sound to work here, but again not sure if a Beovision is different compared to a Beocenter in that regard.

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I also connected my Beocenter 9000 (which does have clock and timer, unlike my Beocenter 8500) to the BL3500 via the 1611 box, and again, no clock! I’m assuming therefore that foe the clock in the BL3500 to work, it needs to be connected to a more modern B&O audio system that has Masterlink built in, such Beosound 3000.

According to this post https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/38541/293010.aspx#293010 on the archived forum it can take some time to syncronize the clock so it might not show up instantly

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The Beovirus makes you do the wierdest things 😉

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I just ran your proposed setup through the B&O Product Configuration Guide and it stated that either BL1611 or 1614 is suitable.  There was a note to say that the TV ‘must be equipped with software Build 109b or higher, in order to be compatible with the Beolink converter’, but you’ve already tested it with the BL1611 so I doubt that you will have any problems.

I wonder what that comptability issue is about, or if it is just about the 1614 Beolink Converters missing voltage for the Masterlink network. New rabbit hole to dive into 😉

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I’m also wondering (and judging from your previous posts you might know this @Madskp!), if I bring my BV8 TV into the Masterlink network, then the TV becomes the ‘controller’, so to speak, and powers the network, so I could use either  the 1611 or the 1614, but not both?

Probably the 1614 should work in this scenario*, however since you have the 1611 this is more flexible if you decide to get a different TV that does not have Masterlink.

*My experience is based on use with a Beocenter 6-26, so actually a little unsure if there is any difference to using it with a Beovision with Masterlink in that regard.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Great. Your BEO4 is  one where A.TAPE2 is replaced with N.MUSIC and PHONO with N.RADIO then. The IR commands are the same just renamed for newer functions

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You might be able to add the command L.A-TAPE2 to the list ( I can’t remember if is availAble. If so that should do the trick

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Or did you just mean that you will use the masterlink cable from the 1614? I might have missread

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Great deal 😀

I don’t know if the BV8 has the timer, but if not it is possible to not show the missing clock on the BL3500. There are three display setting where one is not showing the clock. You can switch between them by holding the timer button and touching the mute button on the BL3500

Regarding the connection to the BV8 you can not use the 1614 when you already have the 1611.
You have to divide the masterlink connection with a junction box

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Leosgonewild wrote:

The BeoRemote One controls the Beosound 9000. Just like normal if it was a standalone system. So the adjusted volume goes into the Almando multiplay. Since this just passes through the line signal it receives, it doesn’t really do anything in this setup. The reason I have it is because my Denon receiver sends the front speakers into it in order to turn on the Beolab 5’s.

Ok makes sense. Was just thinking if Almando had made some new features in their products

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Leosgonewild wrote:

I run a powerlink cable from my Beosound 9000 into a Almando that is connected to my Beolab 5’s. I can control the Beosound 9000 fully with my BeoRemote One BT (which controls all my other units).

Could you elaborate a little on how this works, Is it just the IR function from the BeoRemote one you use for this control or is it something in the Almando box (which of their products is it?) that can recieve the Bluetooth signals from the Beoremote One and relay them via the data in the powerlink cable?

Thanks in advance

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Very nice looking 😀

I especially like the now playing hook system both for having a place to store the now playing covers, but also for displaying the art on the covers

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Wauw some collection you have/had there.

I also tend to buy thing that sounds like a bargin although sometime they may require more work than other 😀

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Great that the equipment is working.

When you are going to choose which  BL3500 to keep you might consider if they are MK1 or MK2, and also which software version they have. All versions should work with your current setup, but judging from your posts you might have caught the Beovirus (like many of us 😉 ) and may want they most future proof version.

Software version on BL3500 can be checked by pressing  Menu + 0 + 0 + GO on a BEO4. If the BL3500 is a MK2 you have to press Menu twice in that sequence

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Might have found a little info regarding this. According to Soundsheavenly’s product page regarding an AUX Y splitter https://soundsheavenly.com/bang-olufsen/11-7-pin-aux-splitter-dual-aux-tape-input-sockets.html

mains hum can be introduces if two mains powered sources are used.

Any thoughts are welcome

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

AdamS wrote:

Sorry to bring this one up again but how do we write text below quoted replies on the new Multicare Forum? I was familiar with the ‘Text’ tab on the previous forum but that doesn’t seem to be there now.

What I do when I have quoted something like here is to press enter, an then the Quote sign to left allign the text after the Quote. I think it also was that way it worked before.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

As for the hum possibility, I was hoping that since the WIIM Pro gets its power from USB, and is therefore not running on mains voltage, I wouldn’t get the hum.  I guess I’ll find out once I get it all connected!  The Aux Splitter that Steve sells is only £20 so it’s worth a try.

Absolutely worth a try. I also seem to remember a thread where it was mentioned that the quality of the USB power source could affect how much hum was introduced .

Let us know how it works out

Location: Denmark

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