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BRONZE MemberIn my very humble opinion the Beograms of that era are very decent sounding decks and the 3000 is a good one. Make sure the stylus is in good order and it should perform very well. A Thorens or Acoustical based version of the earlier Beogram 3000 is better, but you’ll pay a lot more for one of these (a lot, lot more in the case of the Thorens!) and they are both becoming quite rare now.
As to the 12″ single thing, this isn’t the best deck for this. If I remember correctly, you have to set it to start playing on its 7″ 45rpm setting and then manually lift the arm back to the start of the 12″ disc.
I agree, I’m a bit underwhelmed, although I’m sure it will be an excellent system and it does look superb. That said, I’m sure I could take my Beogram 4002/MMC20CL down to my local dealer to hear it through Beolab 28s if i wanted to!
If they were going for a true “flagship”, it should have been a new Beogram 8002 with Beolab 90s, surely?
Oooh, count me intrigued as that looks suspiciously like a record cleaning brush!
Out of interest, is the product truly “new” or another classic product being refurbished?
And there are in fact two different counterweights – used in different models, but very similarly looking and not interchangeable. Martin
I think that may be my problem. The second weight under the arm is present and correct, but I notice in all the pictures, the counterweight cover on the Beocenter 1800 arm is silver but mine is black.
I’m guessing I have the wrong weight and it’s too light?
Ah, now that’s interesting – thanks; I hadn’t spotted that!
I shall investigate…
The originals were foam, therefore I’d replace them with foam.
Changing to rubber will alter the parameters of the drivers and make them sound different. Whether this is an improvement or not is purely subjective.
The D/A output is the digital output, which you’re not using, so ignore that.
It looks like the Marantz has both RCA (unbalanced) and XLR (balanced outputs, so the easiest way to connect it is simply to use a decent RCA-RCA lead and set the input sensitivity to 2V
Tim Jarman is also in that area (Farnborough, Hampshire) and I can pass on his details if you’d like.
However, I hate to break it to you but the brief flash of music at stylus drop/raise on a Beogram is a classic sign of failed suspension on the cartridge. Your MMC will need a re-build.
Saw and heard one in the flesh in Harrods today.
Not impressed by looks or sound, to be honest.
I’m sure it’ll be very good, but the styling really doesn’t do anything for me.
Still, lets hope I’m in the minority and that B&O sell millions of the things!
Someone I know on another forum recently sold his mint Beogram 4000 with MMC20CL for £2,250. On this basis, £580 for a project doesn’t seem completely ridiculous.
Don’t get me wrong, I’d love another one but I can’t afford it. 25 years ago I bought the one I owned for £4 and was thrilled when I sold it for £80 but, sadly, times change!
As another thought – shouldn’t we be pleased that that people are finally working out that these are superb turntables and not just “style over substance”?
Superb system and well worth restoring.
Whereabouts in the world are you located?
Normally I’d have said all you need to do if you have any concerns over the caps in your M100-2s, or their performance, would be to head to Beoparts and buy the correct capacitor kit for them.
However, Martin doesn’t appear to do one for them that I can see.
A loud pop and smoke but with everything still working in any audio equipment usually means a failed mains suppression capacitor.
Can’t remember if the BC2200 uses one – it’s been a while since I’ve been inside one!
It’s a crazy idea, which usually appeals, but it also seems like a waste of three pairs of Pentas…
I use standard PVA. Takes longer to set but offers fine adjustment capability.
@AdamS So you like your Redlines very much, I think? If you compare them with your other B&o Speakers? What do you think? Would you rate them above them?
I’d rate them as better than Beolab 6000 and Beolab 8000, on a par with Beovox Pentas, not as good as Beovox MS150.2s and a long way behind Beolab 90s!
Mind you, every speaker is behind Beolab 90s to a greater or lesser extent…
That’s fine. The most important thing is that the speakers are made to work again – I think we can agree on that!
However, it’s interesting you mention RL140s. I acquired a pair last year and one was fitted with the original two woofers that needed re-foaming, and one was fitted with the two B&O-approved replacement drivers, which had rubber surrounds.
After repairing the original woofers, the sound was distinctly unbalanced, with the speaker with the ‘new’ woofers producing noticeably more bass. To restore a balanced performance I ended up putting one new and one old woofer in each speaker.
As an aside, I almost wish I hadn’t bothered. I’ve always been secure in my opinion that I didn’t really like RLs. Trouble is, no-one told these RL140s – I haven’t listened to anything else since I finished them over a month ago. I had originally planned to sell them once repaired, but that’s not happening now!
Im not totally agreed. You had beovox rl60 who had foam surrounds, after that rl60.2 with rubber surrounds. For durability i would take rubber surrounds. But that is my opinion. I would not re-do the process each 15y because it’s time consuming
Yes, but they were different drivers with different performance and, as a result, the RL60 and RL60.2 crossovers are different to account for the drivers’ different sonic characteristics
I personally feel that it is always best to replace foam surrounds with foam and rubber with rubber.
Agreed – re-foam not repair! But do not opt for rubber surrounds if your originals were foam – stick with the original foam material otherwise you will alter the characteristics of the driver.
The correct foam surrounds from Audiofriends are here:
I’ve not used Audiofriends personally – I usually use Good Hi-Fi and they also do the correct S80.2 surround here:
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