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BRONZE MemberI would also not use the speakers again until you have given the amplifier unit a thorough once-over. Two blown tweeters and smoking resistors in a passive crossover suggest to me that the amp could be putting out DC.
If it is, then it’ll just keep blowing your tweeters and crossover components every time you replace them.
Just an update – I found pictures of the MS150.2 crossover online and it appears that mine have been half re-capped! However, one of the original capacitors has broken and one of the replaced caps appears to be the wrong value.
Consequently, I have done what any sensible person would do in this situation and ordered a full capacitor kit from Beoparts!
Would still be keen to know if there’s a service manual out there, though.
Not specifically Beogram 4000 related, but Multicare came and visited us last year to carry out a safety recall upgrade to our Beovision Eclipse and I got them to update our BL90s to the latest software version while they were there.
Excellent communication and service all round, so a thumbs-up from me.
They’ve also been very helpful in contacting B&O HQ regarding an issue I have on the B&O iPad app with the Lab 90 control, but this remains unresolved as yet.
If you’re using the digital output of the Beosound 9000, then the CD is the only source you will hear as that’s the only one that has a digital output.
You will not be able to output the radio or anything plugged into the AUX socket through the digital output as these are both analogue signals, and the 9000 does not have an inbuilt ADC to digitise these.
In addition to the point above, some ‘continuity’ meters only beep when below a certain resistance. The filament of the lamp will have a resistance and if it happens to be above this point, then your meter won’t ‘beep’, giving the impression that there is an open circuit.
No big issues on these in my experience. The motors can make ticking noises but this can be remedied, and I’ve had a similar Beogram 2000 do some odd things when dirt got behind the front panel and into its start/stop switch but other then that, they’re pretty reliable.
Lovely decks – go on, treat yourself!
I’m working on a big speaker drive unit re-foaming session currently.
The two drivers at the left rear are from RL140s and I’m sure you can all work out where the SIXTEEN midrange drivers at the front came from!
I was hugely impressed by the Beolab 28s when i heard them – one of the best speakers B&O have developed in years (outside of the 90s or 50s, obviously).
However, I would say personally that they still fall a fair way short of the Beolab 5s’ performance.
My main loudspeakers are Beolab 90s and I also use Beovox MS150.2s regularly.
Hi Adam, that is indeed superb! which amp do you use for the MS150.2s? ps/edit: how to get out of the quote mode?
edit 2: ah it works, thanks Guy!
I obviously have a Beomaster 8000 but I mainly use the MS150.2s with a Yamaha C-5000 preamp and M-5000 power amp
What a wonderful selection of prizes and hearty congratulations to all!
Very envious of Martin’s boot bag!!
I know the chap who made the original post, and he and I have been in conversation about these. I hope he won’t mind me reproducing part of a text he sent me last night here:
“….these things sound fantastic!”
Looks like we may have another convert… :o)
My main loudspeakers are Beolab 90s and I also use Beovox MS150.2s regularly.
I agree that the Theatre does look a bit odd but, in contrast, of the items that the OP mentions that he likes, I’ve always found the Beovision 5 to be an odd looking thing that permanently seems to be about to topple over backwards. Even worse, I think that the Beolit 12 is one of the ugliest things ever to bear the B&O name!
Horses for course, as they say…
19 December 2022 at 14:35 in reply to: What does B&O do with all the speakers they buy from different companies? #41512When I worked in loudspeaker design, we would often buy competitors’ speakers for evaluation purposes.
When done with them, they were either donated to charity, or offered to staff for a nominal sum.
I think the first picture looks better, too, but it’s irrelevant as the cartridge is the wrong colour in both pictures!
:o)
Looking at the two pictures, ‘B’ could stand for ‘Brown’!
Whoops – yes, sorry I should have said that.
And don’t worry – we’ve all done it!
If the relay is the same as that used in the MS150.2 loudspeakers that I own, then I believe it is no longer available.
However it”s not difficult to pop the case off the relay and clean its contacts with some fine emery paper, which should do the trick.
It would also be worth replacing any electrolytic capacitors in the protection circuit – if they have aged and dried out then they can cause problems with the circuit’s operation.
I’d say it’s a poor quality cassette shell that has allowed this to happen. You’ll probably have to break the shell apart to fix it, then glue it back together.
They are just an interference fit. Once the drivers are out, give them a tug or a gentle tap with a hammer and they’ll pop off.
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