[trackbeo]

No, that’s part of the point of PowerLink: There is no audio-presence circuit required, thus no leading low-level passages are missed.  (An audio-presence circuit may also be included separately, which is how the RCA line-ins turn on the speaker — eventually…)

Power is applied to the pin continuously so long as the speaker is to remain powered up.  Calling it a “trigger” muddies the waters; it isn’t.  I.e. there is no latching of the power/mute relay, the pin must be on 100% of the time.

Note on some old B&O equipment the Power pin is distinct from the Mute pin, so that a speaker which requires time to turn on its amp can get a power signal first, then the mute signal closes the relay (before the audio is sent).

[trackbeo]

That “tonearm” (cartridge-slider, actually) is reminiscent of the Revox B790.  Only thing missing from the B790 was a central spindle clamping mechanism so it could be wall-mounted.  Because the cartridge carrier had to constantly adjust itself, it could also register hits and spring the cartridge up and out of harm’s way.  So one way to stop playing mid-record was simply to grab the arm and rotate it 90 degrees, no fuss no planning, just grab it and crank. If you’ve never seen one, check https://stereonomono.blogspot.com/2011/12/revox-b-790.html .

[trackbeo]

Not my installation, but Michael Jordan’s house is up for sale (again).  It’s stuck in the late 1990s — which I personally like, but makes for a tough sell at USD 15 million, 30 miles north of Chicago.  Beolab 1’s in both the living room and the guest house, plus 4000’s (not shown) as rear speakers in the guest house.  No BeoVisions, rather NEC monitors from back in the day:

Alas, no B&O in the in the basketball court…

[trackbeo]

No, the point is not to get the *phone* to send or receive 455kHz IR codes, it’s to get that unknown-brand IR controller to do so.  Tuya is a cloud platform service provider.  They make developing “smart” hardware easier (supposedly).  Contact the purveyor of that IR box, and @Guy’s answer is what you need to ask them.

Or, if you’re just an end-user looking to control your system, try a (used, NLA) Logitech Harmony hub:  Though it cannot receive 455kHz codes, it *can* transmit them, and has a library of pre-programmed buttons for the B&O IR devices.  (Although Logitech no longer sells them, they still maintain the back-end computer allowing you to add/delete devices from your hub.)

[trackbeo]

Ah, I see.  But what prevents B&O from running its own pre-roll ads, requiring a subscription, or “curating” and entirely preventing other URLs from working?  They are planning to monetize themselves, just you wait & see…  That flurry of revenue-generation will not be so lackluster!

[trackbeo]

[You have more experience than most, so please pardon me if this is too baby-step and of course you have already looked…]  Usually scratching is from one of 3 sources: deteriorated foam/rubber surround, allowing the motor assembly to fall lopsided, or debris attracted into the gap (those darn magnets), or glue failing which holds the magnets to the rest of the structure and they shift/pull themselves all misaligned (those darn magnets!-).  Sounds goofy, but try laying the speaker on its back: improvement==>rotted surround.  All 3 of these causes can be fixed.  Used drivers from other speakers will eventually get the same faults with age.

[trackbeo]

Mr10Percent wrote:

I would also add, that those with TuneIn, will have a tuneIn account.

Not necessarily. Simple counter-example: take a BeoSound 1 out of the box, config it to Wi-Fi, and tap its top. With no other B&O sources to join, it plays RBB-Kultur from TuneIn. (No idea what it does post-update.)

Mr10Percent wrote:

The whole thing seems a little half-baked and low-energy from B&O. My feeling is it is all too much trouble.

Not if you wish to avoid TuneIn’s latest monetization method, namely playing ads themselves *before* connecting to the radio station (to whom they also supply custom ads in some kind of ad-swap scheme among their providers).

[trackbeo]

USA: From November 21 – November 28, 2022: Save 27% off retail price on Beolit 20, 24% off retail price on Beoplay HX, 37% off retail price on Beosound A1 and 40% off retail price on Beoplay Portal — “at participating Bang & Olufsen monobrand locations in the US and on Bang-olufsen.com only.  Product availability may vary from Bang & Olufsen partner location and certain exclusions may apply.”

[trackbeo]

I saw a price quote from New York USA, elsewhere may vary: The Contour frame is 55-inch “2nd Gen” black anthracite, model 1860950.  The 55″ screen listed LG’s model number OLED55C2PUA.  My dealer (not the one who issued the quote) claimed that B&O revised the frame to match the new LG screen.  If you ask for a price quote, likewise they should list your country’s LG model number, since they are acting as an LG dealer, selling un-modified stock TVs, not some B&O special part/order.  (The dealer actually assembles the pieces: a Contour frame, a Stage/for-Contour, a cloth or wood cover, and the LG TV.)

[trackbeo]

“May”? be related?  What [else] does that setting do?

Could someone please actually test this with their ASE2 device, for example a BeoSound1(2gen), with a local source, for example a local UPnP/DLNA server playlist/queue?  It used to be that tapping the top would, if no other source was playing, beep once, then pick up where it left off in the previously-paused local source.

[trackbeo]

[caveat: I do not own one, but I believe:] Give up on the bi-directional tape-to-tape dubbing aspect by unplugging an external tape deck and plugging in a DIN-to-4xRCA cable.  Then connect the output pair of RCA plugs to a 2xRCA-to-3.5mm stereo cable, because 3.5mm plug (male) or 3.5mm jack (female) is what most inexpensive Bluetooth transmitters use.  Connect one of the many, many, many available BT transmitter boxes.  Use its app or manual pairing (if available) to connect your Bluetooth wireless speaker or headphones.

If you want the second deck back — for playback only — get a custom 2xRCA female -to- female DIN cable to take the output of the 2nd tape deck back to the input pair on the receiver.  Or there may be some fancy bidirectional BT transmitter-*And*-receiver that could take BT input to the Beomaster, better than that second tape deck unless you’re trying to maintain historical accuracy.

[trackbeo]

Sia43 wrote:

Actually BS-Emerge seem to be very specific to its power source. I’ve tried to connect it to three different USB-C chargers with capacities from 10 to 30 watts and it doesn’t react to any of them (the lamps on toop doesn’t turn on at all), which is strange.

That’s because your (older) power supplies are not USB-PD compliant. See a previous thread and scroll down to the end:

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/new-member-looking-to-add-an-emerge-to-my-collection/

[trackbeo]

1) Yes, of course you should *test* it wired.  For the cost of one 20′ and one 40′ prepack Category 6 (or even Cat 5e, it doesn’t need expensive cables) you can eliminate all uncertainty as to software vs. [hardware damage + transmission failure].  If that fails, you just return them, full stop (and ask why your dealer didn’t deliver & set up your  $15,000.00-to-$18,000.00 speakers as part&parcel of the sale).

2) Sonos got issued a lot of bogus patents way too easily, but their original ones — for building & automatically maintaining a mesh network and synchronization among their zones — were real gems.  Versus B&O which must rely on the quality of the underlying Wi-Fi network.  Making your Wi-Fi network error-free may or may not be possible depending on where you live and what hardware you use.  But that’s where you go, next.  Another reason to at least try cables as part of the debugging process.  See #1 above.

3) There may yet be a B&O software bug responsible; recovery from transmission errors requires both high quality software engineering and a transmission channel that isn’t too frequently hit.  (And doing the pairing at all, though it sounds easy to you & me, still requires a fair bit of software.)  Or there may yet be a hardware bug, or some defect with your particular units’ Wi-Fi SoC or antennas.  (One might argue that debugging this isn’t your problem, but what price beauty?)  Cabling them up for a test gives you a baseline from which to work. See #1 above.

I agree with you that Sonos’ system software is way more developed than B&O’s.  B&O doesn’t even have a method (well, at least not customer-facing) to tell the units to report how well their transmissions (receptions, actually in most cases) are working.  But complaining about that and waiting for reply or updates is a fool’s errand.  Good luck, and please don’t forget to post once you figure it out!

[trackbeo]

[[O.T. @matador, but I said that just to remind regular users to click the picture button!  The offensive are other forums (automotive) that thumbnail *all* pictures except to members.  (Oh, and also I thought that particular photo should be visible to non-members.  If it were, e.g, someone’s living room with daisy wallpaper or tightly-placed sofas, I would not “out” their choice to make it a members-only attachment.)  Some people just want to browse & don’t want to login.  Likewise my shading language about B&O’s Discord: I don’t want to “create a relationship” by giving my data to get to see (==join) a discord.  Related, it’s kind of a bummer that @Mikipedia decided to roll his own (which I don’t get to lurk/see) rather than participating here after the reboot.]]

[trackbeo]

Mbee wrote:

What’s this thing?

It’s the love child of a Level and the Balenciaga bag. I think that’s 100% digital art, from the B&O design studio as artist, vs. the third-party artists.  By the way, it offends me when websites don’t let casual non-logged-in users see pictures, so here it is as an image and not a hidden attached-file as @Mbee posted:

So you have to join B&O’s Discord, to get an “allow” to bid for an NFT, using your third-party Ethereum coins (and having loaded a browser plug-in to manipulate your wallet)… which NFT, when minted, will be a randomized grouping of product & surfaces…  That’s a lot of steps to get into the nightclub with ~2000 others.  As I read it, the only physical manifestation they have committed to produce — which your NFT “allow” you to purchase — is a Skiniplay cover for the A9, showing the art in static form.  (“some” art?  your specific NFT art?  they say limited edition which implies a production run and not custom-per-single-user NFT)

To @kuyttendaele who wondered why survival mode could countenance this: It’s free money for selling ideas, kind of like software was viewed in the 1980s, and unlike software, there’s no post-sale customer support:  The work is all done by third parties, from the currency to the art, even to the physical production ultimately farmed out.  (For now, anyway.)  All B&O need is a contract giving them absolute yes/no editorial control — and one young, low-paid, but fashionista employee to run the thing.  Makes the design staff happy too, if their ideas are picked up as that particular art channel. It’s good advertising, and maybe even buzz for the youth market, even if the youths don’t want or get out-bid on the NFTs.

[Edit: Since the B&O NFT web page first linked above itself has a broken link to the HighSnobiety article, here it is.  They include an explanatory P.R. quote from Christoffer Poulsen: https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/bang-and-olufsen-nft-collection/ ]

[trackbeo]

Sia43 wrote:

I have a pair of BS-levels (+ a BL11) and…

Sia43 wrote:

…I’m happy with my BS-levels and addition of BL11, which compensates for the weaker BS-levle’s bass register.

How are you connecting the BL11 to a source with two Levels, in sync?

[trackbeo]

Promo ending tomorrow, October 15, per B&O’s e-mail — plus footnote: “Beosound Explore only available in Green variant.”

(Of course they mean that the free one is now Green not Chestnut.  As of today in the NA market, all colors are available on the website, even Navy which was formerly out of stock.)

[trackbeo]

I don’t think so.  But try resetting your 18s in the middle of the night when the TV is known to be off.  And then don’t unplug them, forever thereafter.  The “full reset” instructions in your manual are:

RESET: Press and hold the button for two seconds to reset the wireless setting of a wireless speaker. The status indicator is solid red for 10 seconds, then it flashes green quickly. The speaker is now in associate mode and ready to be connected to the wireless transmitter. If you press and hold the button for 10 seconds the speaker is reset to factory settings.

Hopefully the factory settings will trigger the green-fast-flash on startup, which will then time out because nobody is around to finish the pairing?  But if not and they “conveniently” re-pair with the transmitter which has memorized them and always on the lookout for “lost” connections — not an impossible mistake for a firmware author,  given how bad radio interference is known to be — well, perhaps you can approach your neighbor with beer (or boxing gloves) to turn off or reset their transmitter?

DETAILS: WiSA pairing requires both ends to take some positive action.  Usually this happens by powering up the speakers and the WiSA transmitter “at the same time,” because they all default into pairable mode for some period.  I.e. the TV couldn’t have paired with your speakers unless the 18s were in LED-flashing-green-fast mode, AND then the TV/transmitter also was powered up or some button (or app click) was done to it.  Maybe that’s not true for some “aggressive” transmitter brand that just gloms onto any-old-thing in range?  But that would be very odd.  So if full reset doesn’t work, then I’m curious to know what the transmitter is: B&O TV, Transmitter1, or a WISA SoundSend, Axiim Link, or…?  Not that you owe me, but the answer to this question is just saving you time because it’s probably the first thing you’ll be asked by your dealer or B&O “tech support”.  Re-connecting automatically is the done thing, but re-pairing automatically must be banned by the spec.  One hopes!  The obvious exception is if both you and your neighbor are using a hard power switch to turn off your speakers/TV/transmitter, rather than leaving them plugged in all the time and allowing them to do their own low-power sleep.  If that’s the case, you might just be getting unlucky power-up timing!  Yes, electricity is getting more expensive, but the standby “vampire” power really isn’t so much to pay vs. this inconvenience…

[trackbeo]

Website BOGO: “For a limited time, every purchase of two or more speakers comes with a complimentary Beosound Explore in Chestnut.”  Not that you would think of this as any kind of a discount on your Beolab 90 purchase (barely even on two A1s vs. retailer discounts) but if you were planning to gift Explore(s) to someone(s), now is as good a time as any to buy 2 and get 3.  (seen on US/CA website, doesn’t say promo end date or whether it’s country-specific.)

[trackbeo]

slanbexx wrote: Afraid I have a hard time making out the crack on pin 7 in the pic

It’s the dark “smiley”:

Glitch wrote: It might be just the camera angle, but the solder from TR32 seems close to the trace.

Also maybe camera, but TR31 “E” and “C” look like there might be a short in that labyrinth of solder dots. (Can’t be, given the symptom you describe, but still worth a check.)

[Author]

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