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I don’t think so. But try resetting your 18s in the middle of the night when the TV is known to be off. And then don’t unplug them, forever thereafter. The “full reset” instructions in your manual are:
RESET: Press and hold the button for two seconds to reset the wireless setting of a wireless speaker. The status indicator is solid red for 10 seconds, then it flashes green quickly. The speaker is now in associate mode and ready to be connected to the wireless transmitter. If you press and hold the button for 10 seconds the speaker is reset to factory settings.
Hopefully the factory settings will trigger the green-fast-flash on startup, which will then time out because nobody is around to finish the pairing? But if not and they “conveniently” re-pair with the transmitter which has memorized them and always on the lookout for “lost” connections — not an impossible mistake for a firmware author, given how bad radio interference is known to be — well, perhaps you can approach your neighbor with beer (or boxing gloves) to turn off or reset their transmitter?
DETAILS: WiSA pairing requires both ends to take some positive action. Usually this happens by powering up the speakers and the WiSA transmitter “at the same time,” because they all default into pairable mode for some period. I.e. the TV couldn’t have paired with your speakers unless the 18s were in LED-flashing-green-fast mode, AND then the TV/transmitter also was powered up or some button (or app click) was done to it. Maybe that’s not true for some “aggressive” transmitter brand that just gloms onto any-old-thing in range? But that would be very odd. So if full reset doesn’t work, then I’m curious to know what the transmitter is: B&O TV, Transmitter1, or a WISA SoundSend, Axiim Link, or…? Not that you owe me, but the answer to this question is just saving you time because it’s probably the first thing you’ll be asked by your dealer or B&O “tech support”. Re-connecting automatically is the done thing, but re-pairing automatically must be banned by the spec. One hopes! The obvious exception is if both you and your neighbor are using a hard power switch to turn off your speakers/TV/transmitter, rather than leaving them plugged in all the time and allowing them to do their own low-power sleep. If that’s the case, you might just be getting unlucky power-up timing! Yes, electricity is getting more expensive, but the standby “vampire” power really isn’t so much to pay vs. this inconvenience…
Website BOGO: “For a limited time, every purchase of two or more speakers comes with a complimentary Beosound Explore in Chestnut.” Not that you would think of this as any kind of a discount on your Beolab 90 purchase (barely even on two A1s vs. retailer discounts) but if you were planning to gift Explore(s) to someone(s), now is as good a time as any to buy 2 and get 3. (seen on US/CA website, doesn’t say promo end date or whether it’s country-specific.)
slanbexx wrote: Afraid I have a hard time making out the crack on pin 7 in the picIt’s the dark “smiley”:
Glitch wrote: It might be just the camera angle, but the solder from TR32 seems close to the trace.Also maybe camera, but TR31 “E” and “C” look like there might be a short in that labyrinth of solder dots. (Can’t be, given the symptom you describe, but still worth a check.)
I regret saying anything. You have a dealer who will let you borrow a Beolab 19? Just do it! Then you will know how it sounds.
People already go pushing their subwoofers around the room to eliminate room modes, and live to tell the tale without “incoherence of the bass” ever being discussed. Also, I completely disagree with @Die_Bogener about straight-line. Even putting a sub in the middle of two 8000s which are in an equilateral triangle with you, already shortens the distance somewhat! If any expert reads this and would care to weigh in, especially if your large room size makes the effect (if any) better or worse, that would be great, but it’s still theory until you “pressurize the volume” yourself.
As to the 11, in a large room you might think either: (a) any little bit will help, or (b) that’s not enough to even notice. Maybe *two* 11s, one for each 8000? (Joke but not joke.) You just have to *try* it, unless you’re an audio genius with a modelling program.
But after re-reading your initial post I wondered why you would spend Beolab 19 bucks on a woofer given that part of the point of the 8000s was being a bargain. I love the way they look myself, and would never switch to 20s from a designy point of view, but if you can get them for a reasonable price… from a sound point of view, I might make an exception… Their 10″ woofers are good for your large room, and the acoustic lenses let you roam around too. In all ways except looks superior to 8000s.
P.S. Don’t forget to post saying what you finally installed. A picture would not go amiss either…(:-)
The Beolab 19 will have a very slight delay (4.4 msec) from the 8000s — DSP takes time vs. analog instant sound. This may not matter if the 8000s have no significant output at those frequencies anyway, to phase-cancel. But in the (unlikely) event you find the bass uncompelling, place the 19 closer to your main listening position than the 8000s by 1.5 meters.
This may help – at least as a start. Cheers – geoff
Grateful for the info but worried for the result: TrueImage has the potential to cause *such* a mess. Recently at a dealer, the pit-crew scene in “Ford vs. Ferrari” sent the dialog to the Harmony center at a low volume, and to wide Celestials at about the same level!!! I couldn’t judge if the distance had been tweaked to sound the center sooner but no matter what the settings, it was !@#$%. (Using 50s as rear surrounds made for great vroom noises though!) There is no beam-width or virtual-speaker justification for open-air dialog to come from the ceiling.
<rant>Alas, no test disc (or stream, 21st c.) exists. Dolby FAQ spouts some pabulum about rights-holders as if they couldn’t force cross-licensing or just take snippets under fair-use — and then has the gall to say, “If you’re calibrating a new Dolby Atmos® setup, you actually don’t need a Dolby Atmos demo disc.” Nonsense. Suggestion: It’s a non-revenue project when writ small, but writ large, if B&O really wants their system to be enough of a “wow” that it sells millions, they will create a test to show how good the system (or installer) has done. Even if it’s the Danish National Opera playing cha-chas. Otherwise Floyd Toole’s Circle of Confusion will reign and nobody will know if the Beosound Theatre is any better than a Sennheiser Ambeo or Sonos Arc(+Sub), except, big whoop, one might play louder than the others. As @Sandyb is implying above if not stating so obnoxiously as I dare, will we all be wishing for a simple On/Off switch to squelch TrueImage, and another one for Atmos? Both “Off” forces 5.1 or 7.1 which are predictable and easily calibrated. </rant>
Regarding that dialog from Celestials, at least a Beosound Theatre when used stand-alone will have all its real drivers location-constrained.
Moreover one point of marketing emphasis is, as you infer, on the capability of a Theatre alone with 28s as rears
Oh duh, of course, B&O’s “model home” diagram (lounge/dining single L-shaped room) with the TV in front of the sofa and the pair of surround speakers that do double-duty as dining room stereo “ventriloquists.” Now just make it a Theatre and 28s (no front L/R) and voilà! Same as before only grander (and more “grands”).
Hopefully either here or in your blog @geoffmartin, or from your experience @Sandyb, one of you might say why the 28 were used for rear and the 18 for front? Based on the “typical” towers front (w/sub) & satellite surrounds in a home theater, it seems backwards. Is there some secret sauce in TrueImage combining the 18s as fronts with the Beosound Theatre as their woofer, and/or using 28’s woofers as multi-point room-modes-elimination method? I don’t see the reason, especially since the Theatre’s frequency response has been said (by whom?) to be “much like” a 28 — simple L/C/R timbre-matching would forestall a lot of DSP foofaraw.
The Line In/Out jack is used for an equalizer (or similar) between the 7000’s preamp section and its amplifier section. Your photo shows the factory-installed crossover plug, which you should leave alone. (If it were removed you would get no sound out your non-powered speakers.)
In your case, I would use the Tape 2 jack, just because it’s easier to put your fingers on. The usual problem is that someone gives you a Line-In RCA->DIN-8 cable rather than the Line-Out cable — just the wrong pins hooked up. For this reason I tell folks to buy a Tape-In-AND-Out cable even if you don’t need it — so you can listen to test which plugs are the inputs and use the *other* two! I bought one on amazon, ASIN# B00M0FXR8A, less than $10. Also a forum sponsor (scroll down) sells cables, and guarantees you’ll get the correct one if you order just Tape->Line-Out!
Feature request: Add custom logic to attachment creation when the usual picture suffixes are used for attachment files, so that it asks (approx.), “Can I insert this into your message as a picture?”. Thus posters can say “yes” allow the pictures to be visible to anyone, or “no” to keep the pix invisible to folks not logged in. Forum websites that don’t allow visitors to see pictures are anathema — make this one at least *offer* to prevent this, because most folks won’t understand the difference. See the most recent thread where the poster almost certainly intended for people to view the TV on offer but mistakenly (I believe) attached the pictures as files rather than inserting them: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/i-want-to-give-away-a-beovision-5-fully-operational/
I always thought of of pin 4 logic as “~MUTE”, i.e. the opposite of the state of the mute-relay inside older Beolab speakers. Pin 1 comes on when the zone is active so the speakers power up. Pin 4 comes on when the speaker is to play, and goes off when the Mute button on the remote or the control panel is pressed. This was changed for newer speakers so that only pin 4 is used for control nowadays, so a trigger & a timer inside the speaker control power on/off. If you search the Archive forums for “Powerlink Pin 4” surely you will find more detail as it may relate to the specific speakers you are using.
From the photographs, I prefer the straight-edge aesthetics to NOTO’s design: this looks bulbous by comparison to the almost-seamless integration in the Contour. I had hoped their decision to rotate the lamellas vertical would lead to the “wings” for larger screens being slide-on lamella “tube-ends” fitting against the vertical seams in the aluminum bottom. Alas wings are only the flat panels, and the soundbar bulge stays the same width. The empty slot space between the bottom of the screen and the top of the speaker bar is unavoidable because of the LG IR receiver “tongue” (and various future-proofed compatible TV screens’ similar appendages), but again contrast the Contour (especially black fabric version where the screen’s IR receiver all but disappears). The empty space stands out more with gold anodization and a screen with aluminum trim, i.e. LG 2022 versus ’20&’21. (P.S. Did it bother anybody else that the lamellas are rounded on the bottoms and chamfered on the tops? [Edit: B&O mini-video shows this, but P-P’s video samples are chopped on both top & bottom.])
Neat how the rotating wall bracket adds the extra structure at the bottom of the bar rather than trying to use bolts into the rear of something which itself is supporting quite a bit of extra weight — but needs to be manufactured economically. Contrast BV 10&11 where there had to be plenty of metal inside the edge moldings to accomodate the hinge attachments. (Aww, no 77″ version?!?! Just imagine what that would look/feel like in the room as this slab swings out to knock over your bird cage, sweep the desk, topple nearby floor lamps, create HVAC eddies… just kidding, but no 77″ wall bracket is no surprise.)
Looking forward to the Technical Sound Guide for this one… after the mysterious “four” patent filings get approved, I guess. Let us pray for the firmware, because there’s so much room for slop when doing proprietary up/down mixing, vs. how is it “supposed” to sound with this movie or that, in this or that encoding from which streaming service, etc. etc, etc. ( Cf. Sennheiser Ambeo and the string of Sonos Arc updates, trying to fix complaints versus happy-campers.)
Related to previous comments, the tear sheet says “OR” for the various wing sizes, not “AND”. As regards 8 PowerLink outputs, again the tear sheet is not clear enough: are 8 wireless AND 8 wired external speakers all supported? [Edit: P-P’s video answers: Yes. 16 external speakers allowed.] (Also the decision of what the superfluous internal drivers be doing? Cf. Sonos Five tweeters in horizontal vs. vertical orientation. Technical Sound Guide, here we come!)
H95 in “Nordic Ice” is now 35% off thru 9/12 — USA/CA only, website only, code “FLASHSALE”. Code also temporarily rolls back some gratuitous recent price increases by modest discounts on Beolit (18%), Level in alu/black (20%), and any Stage (10%). (The speaker colors which were also available sold-by amazon.com reflect the same prices today.)
Level has a delay to do equalization DSP (supposedly only in some orientations?). But does this get applied to Line-In? You should probably test this yourself: hook up a turntable or musical instrument to the Level’s Line-In jack to see if it’s noticeable.
I believe the BeoLab 11 has zero delay. But the 11 — and of course the Level — is not in @geoffmartin ‘s list of speaker delays at https://www.tonmeister.ca/wordpress/2017/12/06/bo-tech-beolab-loudspeakers-and-third-party-systems/
B&O TV’s are supposed to correct automatically if you choose the speaker by name from a menu list. But the Core? Via the App? Please let us all know…
The obvious inexpensive change is Beolab 6000s –> Beolab 8000s. When they came out, non-B&O-fans pointed to the BL6000s as the perfect example of foolish form over function, and how physics was king and their own big boxes simply sounded superior (and louder, which is part of what you’re asking for). I hear-ya’ that a 2.1 system is plenty — especially if “you only have 1 chair and no friends.” (I.e. fixed, centered, listening position means no Center channel needed.) But: Listen to the early-ish YouTube Beo Talk podcasts by @Mikipedia, for his take on how much difference surround speakers made.
Talking through my hat because I don’t own one myself, but this sounds like the classic “Option 0” setting where the attached TV is supposed to process the IR remote. Everybody says “just do Sound / 1 / Store on your Beolink 1000 remote, while the power is off.” The manual fragment below confirms & tells how to do it with a Beo4:
I believe it’s perfectly normal for Aux output to be louder than PowerLink because PowerLink level is controlled by the volume control. I was recently reminded of that the hard way, accidentally plugging my Beocenter 9500 Aux out straight into a power amp: Yikes that was loud.
Schönheit: Beovision 10
alles andere: Beoplay V1
(BV10 panels are known to fail sooner or later, not repairable. Any V1 panel will be newer than any BV10. BV10 speakers sound only fair, not great. My BV10 audio even goes silent after an hour, some heat/fan problem. But… the V1 is ugly!)
Lösung: Kaufen Sie einen BV11.
H95 in light pink (OK, “Nordic Ice”) are 25% off thru 8/18 — in USA/CA at least while supplies last, because they are out of stock in UK & EU. (Not as good as their 30% code discount last month, but available to all; maybe they don’t think they need to give up the extra 45 bucks to sell thru the straggler stock.)
In the USA & Canada, Beoplay EQ have a 25% discount, code “BEOPLAYEQ25”, on the company website, thru August 14. [Edit: extended thru 8/18]
Notice to DIY-ers: DIN connectors often have the pin numbers embossed in the plastic. So you can check your work.
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