Forum Replies Created
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Madskp, B3OHACK3R, would you believe that a BeoLink Passive provides the required MasterLink voltage (as the 1611 does)? I do have one of those lying around. With two CXs and an IR eye (and a remote) I could maybe also keep the number of sound factory boxes limited to two. Regards, Johan
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That is an impressive list and job Glitch. A very timeless and complete set in my eyes.
This set is what my father in law bought new (with BV Pentas) and got me infected with the virus! He still has the speakers, but I just replaced the BM5500 with a BeoPlay Connection Hub + BeoLink Passive. To use the plastic Samsung TV remote (yuk). He clearly got cured.
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No flux capacitor! It does have an LED though.
I really cannot tell what the (tiny!) electronics do. If I did not capture a detail that is of use, let me know, and I can try to make a close-up with a camera.Location: NetherlandsMy B&O Icons:
Hello simonharries, be aware that the BeoVirus can hit hard! I trust you will be googling hard to find out what you best buy. You might find threads like these https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/28505.aspx that will give good insights. From this and other threads I am left with the impression that Beovox 45-2 is seen as a very well performing and not too large speaker, and that the X35 is to be avoided https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/21875.aspx. I had a Beomaster 1900 with S45 for some time, quite nice, but eventually went on to more convenience with a remotely controllable Masterlink/BeoLab based setup. Regards, Johan
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Hi Madskp, thanks for that! I will see to find an ML power box and share photographs of its content, just out of curiosity! Regards, Johan
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When I have all components of my garage sound system I will also try it out and report!
Many thanks so far! J.
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Hi B3OHACK3R, very nice to have you on board too! Could it be the BLC only fails to supply the POWER+? My ideal solution would be a ‘cable’ going from the USB socket to the MasterLink RJ45 socket of the BLC. I can then use the ML socket for the BL2000. Anything that comes close to that would be great!
Regards, Johan
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Hi Madskp, nice to have a fellow wonderer! When I will get my (5th) BLC I will produce a USB to RJ45 5V cable and test it. Trusting I will not brick the BLC with that! I read somewhere the thought that the BLC is mainly developed to bring ML sources to NL and not vice versa. This explains there was no need to provide ML power.
I also believe there is more going on inside the ML Power Box than just put 5v into ML. If someone has one, could open it and share a photograph of its magic content, that would help a lot I reckon. A mini flux capacitor could be in it? Who knows?
Regards, Johan
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When I read the title of the post I thought WHAT?! You got me there haha.
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That joint for sure looks amazing to start with!
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Hi Razlaw, I can start/stop the BS5, go to next/previous song, instruct a new MOTS seed, access colored favourites, select internet radio stations from preset list. So basic control. In my case the BS5 is in the office/attic where I use it mainly. But in the kitchen/living I often listen to BS5 N.MUSIC and let it MOTS on. I am discovering songs in my own collection that I sofar never really listened carefully to! And I enjoy knowing that my B&O kit is maximally integrated. Regards, Johan
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I have a Beosound 3000 connected by ML but it does not have the newer software chip to function well with a BS5 also connected. Have spent many hours trying to get both to work together well. The BS3000 would need a new chip with Option 5. Second, having N Music available both from NL and Mozart products and the BS 5, I thought might cause problems…..although as I type this it occurs to me I could rename N. Music on the BS5 as well as N. Radio.
Hi Razlaw, my thought was to introduce a second BLC: one for the BS3000 and one for the BS5, both A.Slave. That should allow to ‘filter’ the audio sources you want to have ‘mapped to NL’. And maybe solve your Line In / Mozart problem?
In my (non Mozart) set-up I do the same: I have one BLC feeding BS5 N.MUSIC into NL, and one feeding BS6500 CD into NL. Works well.
Just to be sure! Hope this helps, regards, JohanLocation: NetherlandsMy B&O Icons:
Hello Razlaw, I would say option 1? The only ‘no speakers connected’ setting is 0, but that is disabling IR remote control. Apart from Option 1, all settings are meant for a MasterLink setup in my view.
“The music system has five different Option settings:
Option 0. Used when your music system is connected to your video system and no speakers are connected directly to your music system.Option 1. Used when your music system is set up on its own or connected to a video system, when speakers are connected to your music system.
Option 2. Used when your music system is set up in one room and connected to a video system set up in another room.
Option 5. Used when your music system is set up in a link room which also comprises a Bang & Olufsen television.
Option 6. Used when your music system is set up in a link room without a Bang & Olufsen television.”
Regards, Johan
PS – why not ML connect it to a BLC and enjoy control from other devices?
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Hey! I’ve got this converter for sale. Its in excellent condition. I am missing the power adapter unfortunately.
Hi Beoboyo55, FYI, these BLCs work with a normal 230V power cable, no adapter/transformer needed. Regards, Johan
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Hello matador – good hint! I checked my plumbing box and found a few strong plastic rings with a matching (outer) diameter. I cut off the rubber ‘sock’ from the adaptor and found metal – steel for the magnetics with the base obviously. I fixed the ring with some good double sided tape, and it works well:
I will now try and find TX5 1.5mm x 5mm screws as one of them has a very tired head.
Merci! Regards, Johan
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Hi Matador, that is a generous offer, I think that it is a highly complicated part to measure and draw!
For now I just some horribly cut transparent packaging tape to keep all parts together while I will get a virtual machine working and the configuration tool running.
Some better cut black tape (maybe plotted) could do the trick also. Let me try that first.
The plastic material of the ‘ring’ is quite soft, I guess for a silent placement. But it got torn anyway. The plastic close to the copper contact points feels much harder. It could be a 2-piece construction maybe? Regards, Johan
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Hi, I do have the original battery still – it says:
- basic cells by PANASONIC
- HHR-120AAB33 F1x2
- 2.4 Volt / 1200mAh
- BEO5 PA-PN0095.R002
there is a (Dutch) vendor that uses a photograph of the original battery, priced at 69 euros, here: https://www.idav.nl/beocom-5-6-batterij.html.
Hope this helps. J.
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Back on topic 🙂 No one with a crashed Be05/6 with a good adaptor part?
Regards, Johan
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Hi Matador, no the bad one had a white sticker: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beo5-beo6-software-firmware-versions/#post-31292 but I get what you say – can we trust the appearance?
Regards, Johan
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Googling the EAN code on the box resulted in this site: https://www.batteries4pro.com/en/multimedia/remote-control/3,19049-24v-12ah-nimh-battery-for-remote-control-bang-olufsen-beo5-4894128166993.html. They use a very similar image. Quite a bit cheaper. Worth a try? Regards, Johan
Location: NetherlandsMy B&O Icons:
I really cannot tell what the (tiny!) electronics do. If I did not capture a detail that is of use, let me know, and I can try to make a close-up with a camera.
