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Hi, I would remove the drawer just below the TV. Put a speaker in there. Make a wooden frame with same dimensions as the drawer. Clamp black speaker cloth on it. Place it in the ‘hole’ in front of the center speaker. You will have a nice integrated center speaker.
Or even show the speaker! (if it is a nice one :-)). But very good idea this, will look refined.
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Hello Cyana,
Nice to hear you are expanding the usage of the system, and bring it into the 21st century! I think it is great that B&O also provides support to keep on using older systems, even in today’s NetworkLink systems: my BeoMaster 6500/BeoGram CD 7000 set is eventually linked to a BeoSound Core!
Check this thread if you want: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/difference-between-source-sugnals/page/5/
With placing a speaker behind the TV you might block the tweeters indeed. There is no way to bring the TV up a few centimeters?
Regards,
Johan
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Hello Cyana,
For the center speaker not easy: also the slim BeoVox CXs on their sides are higher than 100mm (they are 120mm). Could look nice & symmetrical. Does your Sony TV by any chance have the possibility for using the in-built speakers for the center channel? There are some higher end models that can do that!
The manual (you can find it on Beoworld when becoming a silver or gold member ;-)) does not say anything about storing the 5 channel mode as default. It does say that by choosing an audio source ‘sound 2’ (stereo) and by choosing a video source ‘sound 3’ (stereo + center) is selected. I fear you cannot store ‘sound 5’ as a default.
Keep us posted!
Regards, Johan
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Hi Cyana, the Cona is a (passive) BeoVox and needs an amplified speaker signal. The red/white cinch connectors do not provide that. So then there needs to be an amp between the AV and the Cona. The Cona is not very powerful as beojeff said.
I also must revise my original response about the center channel: the center channel red/black clamps do provide an amplified channel, and can only be used with passive (BeoVox speakers) or need attenuation.
Regards, Johan
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Hi cyana, hi beojeff,
I did once plan for an AV7000, but then went for a BeoSystem 3. However I thought to remember that the center channel of the AV7000 was not using a PowerLink socket, but had regular red/black terminals. The manual confirms this (but is not specific about what speaker):
It would mean you can choose a BeoVox speaker (that has no internal amplification like the BeoLabs have), maybe a CX100 (or two)? BeoLabs that have a[n autosense] line in connection can be connected too (4000/6000/8000) [but would need attenuation]. Beolab 7s do not have such a[n autosense] line in connection and would require attenuation [as well as a trigger signal to power up]. [] Steve (Sounds Heavenly) can help there if you want to go that way. The BeoLab 3500 seems a nice ‘soundbar’ option but is even more tricky to make behave as a center speaker.
The sub outputs are red/white cinch connections, these do not provide the power-on 5v signal that PowerLink connections provide and BeoLab 2 and 11 need. BeoLab 19 seems to be the easiest [directly] connectable sub. A lot is possible but will need some cable magic [for instance a powered trigger kit].
You state that the BeoVox 4500s are active, are they then not BeoLab 4500s?
Hope this helps. Regards, Johan
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But honestly I’m considering doing the same modification of the Beovision 7-40 monitor (still here) as I feel you really loose some of the ‘class’ by just putting a plastic TV on top of the stand….
Very nice Ravsted! I agree with the above. However, how nice would it be to replace just the glass panel with a thin edge (oled) screen. You will win serious on inches too. Wishful thinking probably, as sizes would need to match very precisely.
Maybe one day there will be stick on & cut to size screens :-).
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Beautiful! And it must be a joy to watch a good movie with your setup.
Congrats, Johan
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Hi Alan, hi Mr10Percent, I just checked my (recently acquired) BS5/BM5 and it also says ‘no’ at network connection (where I can acces it through my LAN for sure), and my ‘last n.radio update’ is 2023-06-07 which is today. Do you think you can update the software? My ‘BS5/BM5 application’ states 7.04.01.1945. Regards, Johan.
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Hi Christian – good progress! For the fabric: I used akustikstoff.com (for my 8000s & 6000s) and liked it.
Regards, Johan
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Keeping you posted, I have now integrated the BS5/BM5 combo into the mix. What I did since I got it:
- rubbed the sticky soft touch coating from the BS5 with methylated spirit (under the coating is black gloss paint, it is looking quite nice again, and is much nicer to touch)
- had the cover of the BM5 sandblasted and powder coated in black fine structure (only pity is that the BANG & OLUFSEN logo is lost now)
- vacuumed out the BM5 with a soft brush (lots of dust, I damaged the yellow soft foam pad of the fan, but could replace it with a pad I had left when I gutted an HDR2)
- cloned the 500G HDD onto a 1T SSD, then stretched the data partition so there is almost 1TB space for content (using the helpful threads in the Forum and with some help of my brother, the BM5 needed a couple of recovery startups but now works rock solid)
- put it in Option 0, connected it to NL using a 3rd BLC in A Slave setting, only pushing N.MUSIC onto NL (I tried it straight onto the main ML network first with AM NO setting, but the system behaved a bit weird then, possibly with the main BLC being an A MASTER)
- converted my ALAC based iMusic library (all ripped CDs) into FLAC files using XLD
- placed the set behind my home office desk so the BS5 sits next to my monitor (so not in the kitchen :-))
Now the system looks like this:
As I type this I am I in the kitchen listening to The Police playing on the BS5 in the attic.
I can also play my (ALAC) library through my Core and Twonky, but what I want to explore now is the MOTS functionality (currently 20% scanned), as well as the Favorites, using the four colored buttons on the Beo4. Also I think the screen is not perfectly horizontal, maybe there is a possibility to set the rotation stop of the bajonet style fixation for that.
The interesting thing to know maybe is that when I did set the BS5 to connect to my Twonky/DLNA ALAC library, it played all the ALAC files fine, it only did not show the album art at all. I decided not to dig any deeper on that and convert the library into FLAC and place it on the (now) SSD of the BM5. All album art is shown perfectly after using the XLD converting.
Enjoy your sunday! Regards, Johan
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Nice set herrit! And really complete with the record deck and the mcp. This was the set my father in law bought (with BeoVox Pentas) that got me infected with the BeoVirus. Very much worth fixing, maintaining and using. Enjoy! Regards, Johan.
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Thanks for letting us know MM. I will remember his contributions to the forum with sometimes hilarious photoshop exercises but mostly with very helpful insights and visuals. Always worth a read. I do like his stubbornness to stick with what he needed, changing just to change is not always good.
It’s nice to know you had this special friendship going on!
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Hi Graham, that sounds like the best option to keep operating the BS3 as you are used to. Ideally the Sony has some kind of autosense to switch on when your BS3 provides a signal to it. Maybe you can align on that with the Sony guy. Regards, Johan
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The problems here mainly is the way you have to use/control the setup. As Tignum writes it is possible to get the sound from the LG to the BSys3 – I’d be an advocate for the HDMI ARC extractor there. If you want to use sources of the BSys3 as well as also those from the tv, it gets complicated….especially, if you have to concider that other members of the household might demand ease of use. My recommendation would be either to use the internal sources of the tv (including e.g. maybe a blu ray player connected there) and the BSys3 only for sound (speaker groups, volume etc) or to use the tv as a dumb screen and the BSys3 for everything (e.g. a Chromecast dongle, PUC-controlled external tuner, AppleTV etc…). In the first case you prioritize better picture – in the second better sound. Either way you will have to deal with two remotes. I guess you will have to do some experiments yourself in order to find out, what suits you best.
Good point MM. To keep everything working ‘as it was’, most logical seems to add an Apple TV to one of the HDMI inputs of the BS3. The Apple TV can provide in any desired smart tv app. No sound output of the TV required. The Sony will be the ‘dumb’ screen. Regards, Johan
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Hi Graham, the sound of my TV is coming from its optical out port (Toslink), then using an optical to coax converter, it is fed into an S/P-DIF digital input of the BS3. This allows 5.1 Dolby surround sound to be played over the connected speakers of the BS3.In the connections menu, at sound input, you should choose S/P-DIF.
If you have a 7.1 speaker set-up, you will likely need an HDMI ARC extractor and feed sound into one of the BS3’s HDMI inputs (plus maybe some help from a third BeoWorld member with that experience).
Regards, Johan
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Hi Benjnz, welcome!
I would say that with the BLC set to ‘Source center’ you can make N.RADIO and N.MUSIC sources visible to a joint BC6-26/BS3200 ML network, and also map the CD experience from that ML chain to NL. Check page 15 of the BLC handbook that you can find as an attachment in this thread: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/difference-between-source-sugnals/page/3/.
(A.TAPE is used to access the stored CDs on the BS3200 right? If so, then I do not expect any (N.MUSIC) conflicts. But if such ML source conflict does end up to be a show-stopper, you can always decide to indeed get one BLC more, set that one to A SLAVE and ‘map’ the desired BS3200’s CD ‘experience’ to the NL side that way. This is how bnousr (and me) in the mentioned thread have set up our (three) generations of BeoLink networks).
Let us know what you achieve! Best of luck. Regards, Johan
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