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The cam and cogs have all been carefully cleaned.
Still need two clicks 🙁Location: Paris FranceModeratorYou shouldn’t. These cams MUST run dry and clean. Martin
Thank you Martin,
I felt like I did something wrong. I good to clean it all.
Can this be the cause of the double click problem?Location: Paris FranceModeratorWhile waiting for help, I thought someone may be interested in the re-infusing process I used, since it is well explain all over the internet but not often from a beginner point of view.
Disclamer: I know it could have been made better, with better oil, better vacuum device, better skills. But before investing too much, I thought I might give a quick test ride through the full process without any error that can’t be adresse with a little acetone bath.
First step was to take out and dismantle the motor. I decided to take out the full motor assembly before taking it appart. It was in bad shape, rusty, dirty. The rotor itself had rust marks, like drops of liquid that dried on it. I cleaned it and the inner side of the stator, with alcohol.
I finally made it to the pearls. Beware, the two pearls are different: one (the bottom one) is a ball, the other (the spindle side one) has a little cylinder part like a jar. Be sure to take pictures at every step.
I thoroughly cleaned the pearls with acetone and let them bath for several hours.
To do the vacuum I used a wine pump and a little bottle. I thought that the smaller the bottle the stronger the vacuum. For the oil I used the first SAE30 I could find: 4 strokes for lawnmower, it come in little container. Put the oil in the bottle, carefully drop the balls (I’ve read they break easily), close the bottle with the special thingy and start to pump.
After few seconds, bubbles starts to form around the pearls.
I pumped a little more from time to time all along the day.
In the meantime, I read somewhere something I thought couldn’t be armful.
So I soaked the idler wheel in fabric softener. for like 10 hours.The balls kept bubbling all night long…
With some magic!
The next day I put it all back together. The deck spins a right speed and silently (it was not so noisy before).
Hope this helps.
Location: Paris FranceModerator- Is the view of this picture, the male connector from the backside (soldering side)?
It is not (as often) specified in the Service manual, sorry.
- Are the ground wires (of the input and output cables that I need to combine to the DIN), combined on PIN 2?
In my experience, they are but you may want it to be confirmed by someone else. Nevertheless, they’re is no other pin available so it must be this.
Location: Paris FranceModeratorYou can find an image of the upcoming soundbar by hitting ‘beosound theatre event’ in google search.
Funny, you can see it in the google search result page but now it leads to an error page!
Wouldn’t it be linked to a B&O page I would have say it’s a fake as I already said about the Stage. Seems I don’t recognize the B&O design ADN anymore…
Location: Paris FranceModeratorIf you connected BL3500 or 2000 to the PC2 by masterlink then ‘yes’, with limitations – it would be set up as if the Beolab was in a Link Room. You wouldn’t need an IR sensor for the PC2 because you’d put it in option 0 and control it from the BL2000/3500 – Beo4 would be fine for full control.
This is interesting: The that old saying telling A Beolab 3500 can be used standalone with a 1611 converter only is wrong?
Location: Paris FranceModeratorNo, that one is forbidden until I find one of those little remote too. Unable to find one for 2 or three year when you gave me the idea and still controlling volume from the outside with a “No-com” 6000!
I’m jealous and will report to moderation this post 😉
Location: Paris FranceModeratorGerman movie “FamilienFest”
Location: Paris FranceModeratorListening to the excellent Sarah McLachlan album from 1993 tumbling towards ecstasy
Tried and liked!
Thank you Grumpy cat!
Location: Paris FranceModeratorGood evening Guy,
Thank you for your extensive answer.
What I understand is that the Beoport or Beolink PC2 is usefull if you have a masterlink network and want to add a computer source.In nowadays scenarios (server music shared through wifi or computer out to speakers not using the now deprecated Beoplayer software) they are more convenient solutions.
Am I right?
Nevertheless, it made me think of a new topic idea, something like:
“Can I do something funky with all this old B&O boxes I’ve collected over the years?”
Collectors always end up having beolink boxes, lot of Masterlink devices, lot more of something-link wires and a drawers full of remotes (just in case).What do you (Guy and Forum members) think?
Location: Paris FranceModeratorHi,
I hope Guy’s answer solved your problem.
Could you please elaborate on the use pf your PC2 box? What is the use comparing, say with an airplay box or a chrome cast audio? I think this is relevant for a full masterlink setup but could it also be use as some sort of “computer aux-in”.
How can it be used without IR eye (which are quite rare)?
In a nutshell, is there any non-obvious but absolutely useful use we can’t think of?
Thank you.
Location: Paris FranceModeratorHi and welcome to Beoworld.
The Line in-Line out connector is important because it need to be bridged with a special plug for the Beocenter to make any sound. I can see the plug but if the connections are broken (obvisously they are!) it won’t work.
Maybe you can bridge the broken traces by soldering wires (maybe they’re not much) and find an trick to keep the broken pcb part in place. If you need to use the connector for Aux-In, plug the cable in, secure it with anything and let it like that taking care to not applu too much strength on that side.
Of course, Guy’s advice is the way to go but meanwhile that should work.
Location: Paris FranceModeratorHi and welcome to Beoworld.
I can’t answer your question, but what I can advise is to remove and safely store the MMC3 before going any further in your work!
Location: Paris FranceModeratorHowever, you’ll need to control the devices manually.
Maybe I’m wrong but pin 6 and 7 not being connected he will miss the Datalink protocol and therefore, will need to control the cassette deck manually anyway, B&O or not.
Unless B&O restored the datalink protocol on the 3200?
Location: Paris FranceModeratorFrom the BS3000 Service manual, maybe it’s the same for the 3200.
Location: Paris FranceModeratorSteve, my comment was not meant to be disrespectful and not specifically aimed to the people you portrayed in you video.
Generally speaking there is a huge difference between, personnel museum or collection open to public (even if selected public) and private collections that are invisible and forgotten.
There is also a difference between the very very old items, that I reckon they must be stored and cared somewhere by instructed people and all the 80-2000’s systems that can still work and could find a home where they will do what they’re created to: sound and picture while being cared, displayed, cleaned, serviced etc…
Just a point of view.
Location: Paris FranceModerator1000, 2000, 3000, 5000… There is always a bigger fish!
Personally, I can’t see the point, the pleasure or the need for collecting (accumulating) so much items even more when they are stored away, useless and only aging without even being connected. Just above, and even thought I’m impressed by such a beautiful collection, there is enough to fill more than ten mini museum or exhibitions. Maybe they are used for that purpose, I hope so. Because if this is not the case, the only thing I can see here are systems removed from the second hand market that could be refurbished and used in enthusiasts houses.
This and (one of) the largest collection in the world of aging capacitors, rubber melt and foam rot!
Location: Paris FranceModeratorOh yes sorry, No problem at all. Screw driver or any flat head shape. They are not screws, more locks or something mounted on a spring. you just push them gently and turn them until they click in place. Not risk to break anything in there.
Location: Paris FranceModeratorHi Stoobie,
You can use the user manual for the STB Bracket stand. Although not exactly similar, the principle is the same: slot in the bottom, bolt and spacers at the top.
You have also a diagram in the service manual but I beleive you already seen it.
The holes in the BS9000 are the only ones apparent. When you hold the unit in front of the stand (or the stand below the unit) they should reveal themselves.
Hope this helps.
Location: Paris FranceModeratorReplace the two silver SMD caps. If the space allows you can replace them with ordinary electrolyctic capacitors ( 22µF / 6.3Volt ).
And it worked! Now I have a remote controlled Century wreck! But I’m happy I did it.
Warm thank you RaMaBo.
Location: Paris France -
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