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ModeratorCould somebody remind us the bold lines why the 4002 is easier to service than the 4000?
Location: Paris France
I also see there’s something called an A1, which’ll be in the other end when it comes to sound,
Given you have considered a Beosystem 10 or even the Beolit 12 I’ve talked about, an A1 or even a second and A2 will not be “in the other end when it comes to sound”. At all!
I suppose they can’t be compared with the Emerge or the Level of course, that are standalone systems but they’re both very impressive speakers by themselves.
Location: Paris France
Ok, ok , ok, It’s just for display… But still…
Location: Paris France
Lausvi, your avatar rocks…
Location: Paris France
I can’t check because it’s in a box somewhere,
my soldering iron – it’s in a box somewhere …
Location: Paris France
One observation yes:
I’ve spent hours starring at non-working LC2’s guts in the hope something like you’ve noticed will jump into me and I’ll be able to repair them.
After thinking it twice, I thought that even if repaired, it would be a nonsense to have to use any 40w bulb nowadays and dropped the idea.
As fun and exiting it is to use B&O light control it do not worth it to me.
(But I still have and use my little 6 channels magical box that Beodrives intertechno switches !) 😉Location: Paris France
As far as I know, Black nose are SP 7 to X (?) and clear nose are SP10 to 14. Not the same at all. But “far” as I know may not be “far” as I believe!
Location: Paris France
Thanks for these pics Steve.
The Beogram 4000c looks really yellow compared to the rose gold in the marketing pictures. Do you know what this one is? I would have beleived all units (50 right?) would have been sold by now or at least not in the workshop.
And did you had time to talk with the guys about the name “4000” against “4002”?
Tank you.
Location: Paris France
But I just need two suitable Beovisions and a slightly older VHS player than the two I already have,
Please let me call them for you…
Location: Paris France
https://www.addictionhelper.com/rehab-locations/oxfordshire/banbury/banbury-lodge/
Location: Paris France
I’ve not been of any help in this, it’s far beyond my skills.
But I’ve felt that need to thank this ghost community (and maybe did, can’t remember, hope I did…). So even if I’m not directly concerned, I want to thank you to have taken the time to post this.
M.
Location: Paris France
An MCL junction box?
Close! The hole (and the two the other side) are for co-ax (aerial) cables.
What? This is a genuine thing?
Really someone should call the Jarman brothers and inspire them to write “Black boxes: the underground world of Bang&Olufsen”.
Location: Paris France
I wouldn’t say it’s a scam but at least its a misleading sale. Top and side views are not the same item: On the top view it’s a C7 power plug and there is only one “screw ear”, on the side views it’s a 12v jack and both “screw ear” are there. Definitely not a 1638 BL Active.
Location: Paris France
Strange that the Subwoofer socket is an input rather than output?
Yes, the mystery is what could this thing be for? What would be the use of a Woofer IN with two Front OUT? And if this would be some sort switch, how would it be controlled: no IR in, nothing appart INs/OUTs and Power. Should it be reversed I would understand it was what SIA43 said, but this ?
Location: Paris France
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
Are you talking about the 1985 stereo radio-cassette system versus the 2020 Bluetooth speaker ? They have next to nothing in common and nothing at all in term of sound.
First, the Beosystem 10 is more or less a Japan production that, how to say this, has only the B&O look. It’ two wide range speakers sounds flat, very average and of course, old, absolutely not B&O. But it is still a very nice device on display who needs regularly to have the dust removed from its shinny black panels.The Beolit 20 is a portable BT speaker with tweeters and woofers and has a more deep, detailed and modern sound.
Their footprint is also slightly different. The BS10 may be wider than your Tivoli system but also thinner and can be hanged to the wall.
Prices may also be very different.
Depending on your budget, your needs and the way you have to organise your space you may want to consider:
- a Beosound Century: it’s very wide but can be wall mounted and color panels for the speakers can help to make it more discrete. Can be remote controlled.
- A Beolit 12, same as Beolit 20 but they’re cheaper, Airplay not BT and its less boom sounding than the 15/17/20. The 12 can be remote controlled.
- If you can place the speakers away any Beosound Ouverture/2300/3000/3200 will give you a small footprint. The Ouverture has a tape deck. Can be remote controlled.
All have aux-in.
Hope this helps.
Location: Paris France
And more importantly, do I need one?
Yes you do, to tell us what it is…. 😀
Location: Paris France
Life is unfair!
Congratulation lucky you.
Location: Paris France
Bad Powerlink wires? Are they original? Long? Short?
Location: Paris France
Well, that was an example to illustrate that sometimes someone can stay with an empty shell because (what seems to be) a generic part is missing. I may loose myself and readers with examples but once I got for free a Beocord VX something. It was in very good condition and electronically all working apart from the loading mechanism that was broken: a specific plastic part. It went to the recycle bin. All in all it was it’s fate, part was difficult or impossible to repair and hunt for a donor would make no sense because eventually I nevertheless would have no use of a VHS scope. But the story would have been different in my mind if the problem would have been à lack of 24 Volts somewhere, I mean I’ve got plenty of 24 volts PSU in a box somewhere.
You see what I mean?
Now your explanation about power supplies is ver enlightening and I thank you. I recently had to strip an RIAA preamp from its built-in transformer because it added noise to the phono signal so, yes, I understand what you explained and it makes sense to me. Apart from that I currently have no transformer problem but I used that example because it’s a common topic on forums: Beolab’s Stand-by trafo, power source in Beograms or Beomaster, missing power lines in the same units sometimes… And when I see some PSU that weight now next to nothing when they used to be big, heavy and hot in the past 10 years, I wonder why this still is a problem. Now I know.
About Beogram motors its more or less the same ignorant logic. Luckily, on the 4 Beograms I have, all have working motors. If you remember, I’ve always have been scared about infusing bearings (12xx bearing, not smaller yet!), but I’ve finally tried too, with mitigated success, more likely due to wrong oil (by greed again!). But I learned that I can. So no motor needs now but I thank you for your proposition. But again, If Im correct, The 12xx motor is just a motor spinning at a defined speed and that’s why I wonder nobody came with a modern solution that could replace the whole, very beautiful and well engineered but prone to wear and misadjustement assembly – motor+idler wheel – with something less elegant but simpler. But here again your explanation help me to understand those things were well built and whatever the price or difficulties to service them (for the common user) when they are, they will last five or six decades again.
But don’t worry, I’ll soon get in touch with you for some rubber things! 😀
Thank you Martin.
Location: Paris France
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