[Madskp]

B3OHACK3R wrote:

Wasn’t A.MEM used for Spotify when it was still working? If you haven’t set it up (which you can’t nowadays) it will probably just ignore that source command.

Of course, thats probably it. Could be great if it could be redirected to ML though

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I managed to get hold of another motherboard for the BM5, the 1,5Ghz version for aaround 40€ including shipment and another mini itx motherboard.

I have installed the replacement motherboard, updated the BIOS and done a restore.

Although it took some boot loops and manuel restarts it now seems like it is running like it should.

Next issue the sticky black coating, and a broken glass on the BS5 head unit.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

B3OHACK3R wrote:

Pretty straight forward to make that available as the N.Radio / Phono source on ML then.

Nice. I guess that it could also be served to NL devices as well?

B3OHACK3R wrote:

Unlike the “Univeral Link Adapter” project the MDT does not have a built-in RIAA equalizer. So it either needs a BeoGram with normal line-out or an external RIAA.

That I think is ok. Then people can choose which price/quality they want, and people who already has a RIAA or a turntable with a built in RIAA do not have to pay extra for that feature

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Another idea for a usecase for this adapter:

As systems like BC2, BS3000/3200, BS4 and BS9000 does not have datalink control of the Aux connection the adapter could be used to have tape2 and phono available via Masterlink and control connected record and tape players.

This would require the use of datalin80 on the datalink connection, but I gues that is not a limitation hardware vise

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

eil047 wrote:

Just to complete the list: a MasterLink Gateway is also an option (if

Even though I am not sure of the capabilities of the MLGW it will not be able to do anything for the BS1 and the Century

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Thats a tough one.

The BS9000 (and maybe the BS2500) can probably be set to option 4 where it only accept commands when Link is pressed before the command.

Also if acceptable some units could be set to option 0 where they do not react to the remote and therefor only have local control.

Another option is  a plastic cower (I dont know what the real naming gor it is) to reduce the IR signal strenght of the BEO4

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Madskp wrote:

As the Beolink passive also use pin 1 for powering up I would expect the same result for that, but interesting to hear what you are going to find out when testing it.

I tried the BeoLink Passive with the BC2300 today, and there is indeed no muting.

Even though it seems a little odd I think I know why the Bc2300 (and probably other) works this way with Pin 1.

To be able to work as a master unit in a MCL2 network (as shown in the above picture) the amplifier for the MCL2 network cannot be muted even though the local speakers are. as listening in link rooms should still be possible.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

and a new CR2450 battery will arrive with the capacitors!

Where is this CR2450 battery located? I don’t think I have noticed one while working on my Ouverture.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Thanks for commenting.

Do you happen to know any system model numbers they are used in?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I can chime in on the brittle plastic. I think I have damage on at least 3 screw post on my ouverture.
I also think Matador has mentioned this as an issue with these systems before

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I take it that you replaced with standard (non-SMD) caps?

Actually I bought SMD caps, but they where a little difficult to source, and also not that easy to solder on the board. So if there is space enough I would recommend standard caps.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Madskp wrote:

Always read the manual Was looking for some other MCL2 related stuff and came upon this in the MCL2 installation manual Is seems to have a very specific purpose for the wall anchors supplied with the MCL2P

Ah, brilliant – thanks for that! I will sleep easier tonight!?

you are welcome 🙂

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Also in the MCL2P box – solid plastic plug 42mm long. Any ideas what for? Perhaps the unused type number label is the MCL2P ‘accessory’, and the plug from elsewhere – the BC2300 perhaps?

Always read the manual 😉

Was looking for some other MCL2 related stuff and came upon this in the MCL2 installation manual

Is seems to have a very specific purpose for the wall anchors supplied with the MCL2P

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Thanks for the info. very good points

B3OHACK3R wrote:

As far as I know the pin code is stored in the socket unit. I have two BC2 here. One with pin code enabled, the other came disabled. I remember connecting the “pin code” head unit to the other socket unit (several un-powered hours in-between). It then didn’t ask for the pin code, so…

Ok that is indeed worth to know. Funny enough the one seller who is selling a socket unit also sells a head unit separatly and tells that he has the pin code for that. But Of course if you don’t know it it would make more sense that the pin cpde was in the head unit.

B3OHACK3R wrote:

Watch out for sticky soft touch paint on the head unit.

Did not even think about that. But that is an issue with a lot of products from that era. I also have a sticky Beolab 7.1 and Beomaster 5.

B3OHACK3R wrote:

Also worth checking the display for signs of wear. The VFD technology used has a limited life-time. If people let it running 24/7 or enabled the standby clock some pixels will be worn out heavily and pretty dim while other will still be bright. While it still functions then it will just look bad.

Yes this might be a deal breaker. And for the sellers who only sells the head unit this will not be possible to check before buying.

B3OHACK3R wrote:

The wing mechanism tends to stop working properly. Usually caused by a slowly failing rubber belt.

This I was expecting as I can see that the Beoparts shop has the belts for it.

 

Anyone knows what to expect about laser durability?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Interesting 🙂 looking forward to your results with this project.

The decoder/servo board looks much like that in my Ouverture. At least the caps are the same values.

I removed the old capacitor holding them with pliers, pushing down and twisting them back and forth. This method is described a lot of places, and seems to be a very safe vay to remove the caps without damaging the PCB traces. After the removal the component legs has to be desoldered, but that is quite easy, maybe with some added solder.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I also got a bargain for a Beogram 2000 some time ago. 200 Danish kroner which equals arround 23 punds at the time. It was in working condition but without a pickup an scratches on almost every aluminimum part and the dust cover.

Last week I found another Beogram 2000 for the same price which is in much better cosmetical condition, but where the pickup arm i broken off.

I now hope I can combine the best from these 2 decks and get a decent Beogram out of it for almost the same bargain price that you got yours for

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello both

I would expect bothe the mechanism and the decoder board to be replaced to. In case of Beocenter 2300 and Ouverture my thinking was to replace the whole unit that are held by the to springs.

The reason for thinking og this is beacuse og the issues with the linear alser,  ut also because relativly often I am able to find a defective Ouverture/2300/2500 cheaper than a new laser from Beoparts shop.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

auric wrote:

Hi Guy: What is your experience with the Philips CDM12 linear pickups? I used to have Beocenter 2500 (Radial Pickup) and a Beocenter 4000 (Linear Pickup). I found that the radial pickups will play anything… pressed CDs as well as CDRs with no problems. The linear lasers seem to be more picky. My BC 4000 plays pressed CDs fine. It doesn’t do well on CDRs even after laser change. It seldom plays CDRs perfectly from beginning to end. Some CDRs are unreadable others will skip near the outer tracks. Derek

Hi Derek – similar experience for me: Both mine and Mother-in-Law’s BC9500s CDs have always played fine with all CDs, as has my early model radial laser BC2300. The linear tracking late model BC2300 that I took out of storage last week is the first CD that I have had major problems with, and I am about to dismantle and investigate further. Also both my BeoSound 1s initially had CD problems but are both now playing well after a light clean and running CD test modes to ‘exercise’ the laser pickup!

Does anyone know if these drive mechanisms are interchangeable, or if other components and/or software versions are required for that to work?

My thinking here is if the linear type is unreliable there are lot of defective systems out there with the other type of CD mechanism to pick spare parts from.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Yes the 15v (measured 14.75V no load) is always on

Ok good to know.

Guy wrote:

One thing that I remember from before is that the BC2300 will not ‘mute’ the MCL2P, despite using a fully wired PL cable.  I have a(nother) Passive arriving in the next few days so I will check mute with that also.

This might be related to the fact that the MCL2P only use pin 1 in the powerlink connector for powering up. This thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/powerlink-power-up-vs-speaker-on/ mentions pin 1 as powering up and pin 4 as a mute function on older powerlink speakers.

Looking at the diagram for the powerlink connector on the BC2300 it shows that PIN 1 is connected to 5V supply through a small resistor, and therefor probably not related to the mute function of the BC2300, but still having power when the BC2300 is on.

As the Beolink passive also use pin 1 for powering up I would expect the same result for that, but interesting to hear what you are going to find out when testing it.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Also in the MCL2P box – solid plastic plug 42mm long.  Any ideas what for?

I seem to remember seeing something similar in white before, but can’t remember what it was for.

Madskp wrote:

Guy wrote: The connectors are actually a little strange – the external contact has a small plastic sleeve on it that will slide up and down. I am not sure of the purpose, but it does need a bit of force to push it into the MCL2P socket, whereupon there is a positive ‘click’ once fully inserted: Interesting with the design of that connector as the connector I am using for mine is not sitting very well in the socket, and as the MCL2AV is designed to have the connections downwards this design would sure help to keep the the connector inside.

I actually discovered that I have one of these conenctors, so I might as well put it on my power supply for the MCL2AV to help secure the connection better.

Guy wrote:

MCL2P with Original Instructions and the 15v cable for powering MCL2AV

Have you tried testing the MCl2P yet? I was wondering if the 15V output for the MCL2AV is always on? I guess I has to be on in standby for the MCL2AV to be active, and then the MCL2AV can wake the MCL2P from standby via powerlink.

Location: Denmark

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