[Madskp]

I have now tried to a 1611 converter to the setup, so both the BLC NL/ML, BLC 1611 and BL3500.

Now the BL3500 says ML OK

The voltage on the Pink wire power + is 10.9V

The voltage on the blue vire power –  is -10.9V

The voltage on the Green wire data + is 0.25V

The voltage on the green/white wire data – is -0.25V

So it seems that the BLC NL/ML does not have enough power to pull the voltages to the correct levels when a piece of ML equipment is connected.

So it might be that the options are:

• The ML power box
• A BLC 1611
• B3OHACK3R’s solution
• or a real ML audiomaster

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

A little update from at testing session today.

I tried to connect the BLC to a BL3500 MK1 with a ML cable, and also connected the network link to my network.

On the BL3500 when I press Menu, 0, 2, GO it says No ML, so not registering it.

The voltages are also different when connected:

The pink Power + is now +4,68V

The Blue power – is now – 4,68V

Data + and Data – both are reading +0.4V which mean that at least the Data – can not pull the voltage to the correct level (-0.25V).

Also when I disconnect again and measure the data voltages they are both positive, and arround 0,3V. They might also both have been positive when I measured yesterday, so it could be that the missing negative data voltage is what the power box does?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Tignum wrote:

Could it be the BLC only fails to supply the POWER+

According to my measurements it does supply that.

What I noticed when I tried measuring again is that power + and – starts at a low voltage 3-5V when the BLC is booting, but then changes to the +10,8V and -10.8V when it is ready.

One thing I did not mention before is the blue/white wire for ML sense. That has no voltage, but should not be relevant to the BL2000. Also in the RJ45 ML cables it is connected to power+

If I can find the time in the weekend I will try to connect a BL3500 to see if I can make it do anything

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Just to see what the BLC supplies I took mine out and connected it to power and a ML cable with loose ends.

On the the data + and – lines I can meassure 0.2-0.3V and – 0.2-0.3V so I would say that might be 0.25V (when taking my shaking hands into account 😉 )

On the pink vire I measure 10.8V and on the blue wire -10.8 V

So the BLC seems to have all the voltages coming out of it.

Now I am really confused what the ML power box does?

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The service manual describes a testing procedure for when the door does not close, or only slides down. In that case it says that if 3.3V is measured on pin 2 in the connector P1 when the door is in the lower position, the PCB with the magnetic switch should be replaced.

I do measure 3.3V even when it is not in that position, so might be an indication that something is wrong.

However the 6V that should also be in that connector, which I would guess is a supply is not there, so maybe something else is also wrong. I tried to measure for the 6V 2 PCB’s down, but still nothing.

I might have to start replacing the magnetic switch, provided I can finde. a replacement, and see what happens then

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Tignum wrote:

Hope someone else has been wondering about this also

I have been wondering about that powerbox indeed, and would very much like to know how much there is in it.

It migth be that it has to generate both the positive and the negative voltage to support the systems that need both.

However the Beolab 2000 among others only has connections for the positive voltage according to the specifications in the servicemanual for it:

And on the diagram

 

So it might be that by supplying the postive voltage to pin 12 is enough.

In some of my testing with the BL3500 this was not enough for stand alone operation, but in this case where you also has the ML data signals from the BLC it might be that could be enough.

Looking at one of the other diagrams for the BL2000 I can see that the positive voltage fromt the ML connector is used to activate a transistor that activates a conenction called ML CON, which I assume is a way to tell the BL2000 that it is connected to ML.

I don’t know if it is this simple, but If you have some pieces of ML cables that are cut on the middle you could probably try to make an adapter.

I can also try some testing with a BL3500 but might not be before next week I have the time for it

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Just found this old thread about the ML Power box https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/16217/141383.aspx

There is especially on post that mention this:

Where the last part I have underlined with red might be a dealbreaker.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

One extra piece of advice. The double sided tape that holds the glass plates may not have the propper strenght anymore.

Therefor there is a risk of the glass plates falling of when the top lid is open

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Looking very good ?

I went the cheap way for my RL45’s and bought an extra set to get on replacement strap.
Ironic the used equipment are sometimes cheaper than the spare parts for it

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Great to hear you worked it out ?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

2020 is the one with the Antenna port.

The other ones are without. The differences lies in which setup type the where bought for and if the had the IR eye or not. For your setup it should not matter

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I would not suspect anything else at this point.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

pepps wrote:

Lovely Beocave!

Thanks ? though it is allready reorganised since the picture was taken to make space for more items ?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Jacope wrote:

I’ll also look into which capacitors I need to replace first for laser.

Unless you have good experience with mounting SMD caps I will recommend the Approach Guy have in the linked thread where he use standard capacitors instead. In my experience the SMD ones are not easy to solder on to the board with a soldering iron

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

When you are going to replace it a piece of advise is to also disconnect the power for the Beosystem 4500 to avoid any risk of damage anything in the process

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

ICHooligan wrote:

I noticed that Quality Dream Audio is out of stock on the one I have, but they have this one that I’ve attached. Would this work with my system? The only difference I see is the extra port for TV on it whereas the one I have only has the 3 ports, one being marked TV, which is the one that I use to relay from the bluetooth adapter to run my TV in the room above. Please let me know. I appreciate all your help with this, very frustrating.

Yes this would work the same. The extra port for TV is just an antenna cable pass through that was left out in the later versions of the MCL2AV.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

alexsalles wrote:

I tried with the mains plugged in and when I touched the pin with the multimeter something on the awareness board blew up

Sorry to hear that. Can you tell which component that blew up based on your pictures?

alexsalles wrote:

at this point I dont even know if it’s worth fixing this tv. Was the problem something else on the video engine and now that I made that part blow up would it affect the video engine in case it was okay and the problem was really the awareness one?

Hard to tell, but at least when you get the new PCB you will know if that was it or if it is the video engine part

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

All back together now …

wauw. Great looking. Just need some speakers now

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Quick photo of display with contrast too high (do I mean too low?) – only BBC R2, RADIO A and STEREO should be visible!  It is much better viewed direct on, rather than at an angle.

Very good illustration of how it should not be 🙂

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I am now able to check my display in the dark and it is far too bright! (the non-lit ‘pixels’ are glowing too much which reduces clarity).  I’ll re-adjust tomorrow, probably back to where I started.  It’s a bit of a faff to adjust so I actually wish I’d never attempted.  So if you can live with yours as it is then I recommend doing nothing!

Good to know. I have not noticed any issuses with brighness on my Ouverture, but if I do at one point I might have to consider what I can live with.

Guy wrote:

On a positive note, I replaced both belts today – first time I have tried that and it was a bit tricky but successful.

Yes they are tricky. When I did it I ended up re wirering the doors as I probably had disassembled the mechanism to much. But with the extra lenght there was in the existing belts I have no doubt that belt change is mandatory.

Guy wrote:

I also replaced the lithium battery – I (carefully) soldered a new battery directly rather than use a socket because the sockets I bought were a bit large and may have pushed against the upper shielding

Also good to know in order to get the right battery from the start.

Guy wrote:

Given that this is the first battery change in 20+ years I reckon that the replacement will probably outlive me.  (Old battery measured 2.86V no load, new one was 3.2V).

And based on that, you are right, that next battery replacement is probably not worth thinking on.

Guy wrote:

Apologies for hijacking madskp’s thread for the non-CD-related activities but I wish him all success in getting his Ouverture fully functional.

No need to apologise. Allways great with extra inputs, especially since my Ouverture is still open. I would hate to find out that I should have done this little extra thing when I had just reassembled the whole thing 😉

Location: Denmark

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