[Madskp]

Just to see what the BLC supplies I took mine out and connected it to power and a ML cable with loose ends.

On the the data + and – lines I can meassure 0.2-0.3V and – 0.2-0.3V so I would say that might be 0.25V (when taking my shaking hands into account 😉 )

On the pink vire I measure 10.8V and on the blue wire -10.8 V

So the BLC seems to have all the voltages coming out of it.

Now I am really confused what the ML power box does?

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The service manual describes a testing procedure for when the door does not close, or only slides down. In that case it says that if 3.3V is measured on pin 2 in the connector P1 when the door is in the lower position, the PCB with the magnetic switch should be replaced.

I do measure 3.3V even when it is not in that position, so might be an indication that something is wrong.

However the 6V that should also be in that connector, which I would guess is a supply is not there, so maybe something else is also wrong. I tried to measure for the 6V 2 PCB’s down, but still nothing.

I might have to start replacing the magnetic switch, provided I can finde. a replacement, and see what happens then

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Tignum wrote:

Hope someone else has been wondering about this also

I have been wondering about that powerbox indeed, and would very much like to know how much there is in it.

It migth be that it has to generate both the positive and the negative voltage to support the systems that need both.

However the Beolab 2000 among others only has connections for the positive voltage according to the specifications in the servicemanual for it:

And on the diagram

 

So it might be that by supplying the postive voltage to pin 12 is enough.

In some of my testing with the BL3500 this was not enough for stand alone operation, but in this case where you also has the ML data signals from the BLC it might be that could be enough.

Looking at one of the other diagrams for the BL2000 I can see that the positive voltage fromt the ML connector is used to activate a transistor that activates a conenction called ML CON, which I assume is a way to tell the BL2000 that it is connected to ML.

I don’t know if it is this simple, but If you have some pieces of ML cables that are cut on the middle you could probably try to make an adapter.

I can also try some testing with a BL3500 but might not be before next week I have the time for it

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Just found this old thread about the ML Power box https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/16217/141383.aspx

There is especially on post that mention this:

Where the last part I have underlined with red might be a dealbreaker.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

One extra piece of advice. The double sided tape that holds the glass plates may not have the propper strenght anymore.

Therefor there is a risk of the glass plates falling of when the top lid is open

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Looking very good ?

I went the cheap way for my RL45’s and bought an extra set to get on replacement strap.
Ironic the used equipment are sometimes cheaper than the spare parts for it

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Great to hear you worked it out ?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

2020 is the one with the Antenna port.

The other ones are without. The differences lies in which setup type the where bought for and if the had the IR eye or not. For your setup it should not matter

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I would not suspect anything else at this point.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

pepps wrote:

Lovely Beocave!

Thanks ? though it is allready reorganised since the picture was taken to make space for more items ?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Jacope wrote:

I’ll also look into which capacitors I need to replace first for laser.

Unless you have good experience with mounting SMD caps I will recommend the Approach Guy have in the linked thread where he use standard capacitors instead. In my experience the SMD ones are not easy to solder on to the board with a soldering iron

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

When you are going to replace it a piece of advise is to also disconnect the power for the Beosystem 4500 to avoid any risk of damage anything in the process

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

ICHooligan wrote:

I noticed that Quality Dream Audio is out of stock on the one I have, but they have this one that I’ve attached. Would this work with my system? The only difference I see is the extra port for TV on it whereas the one I have only has the 3 ports, one being marked TV, which is the one that I use to relay from the bluetooth adapter to run my TV in the room above. Please let me know. I appreciate all your help with this, very frustrating.

Yes this would work the same. The extra port for TV is just an antenna cable pass through that was left out in the later versions of the MCL2AV.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

alexsalles wrote:

I tried with the mains plugged in and when I touched the pin with the multimeter something on the awareness board blew up

Sorry to hear that. Can you tell which component that blew up based on your pictures?

alexsalles wrote:

at this point I dont even know if it’s worth fixing this tv. Was the problem something else on the video engine and now that I made that part blow up would it affect the video engine in case it was okay and the problem was really the awareness one?

Hard to tell, but at least when you get the new PCB you will know if that was it or if it is the video engine part

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

All back together now …

wauw. Great looking. Just need some speakers now

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Quick photo of display with contrast too high (do I mean too low?) – only BBC R2, RADIO A and STEREO should be visible!  It is much better viewed direct on, rather than at an angle.

Very good illustration of how it should not be 🙂

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I am now able to check my display in the dark and it is far too bright! (the non-lit ‘pixels’ are glowing too much which reduces clarity).  I’ll re-adjust tomorrow, probably back to where I started.  It’s a bit of a faff to adjust so I actually wish I’d never attempted.  So if you can live with yours as it is then I recommend doing nothing!

Good to know. I have not noticed any issuses with brighness on my Ouverture, but if I do at one point I might have to consider what I can live with.

Guy wrote:

On a positive note, I replaced both belts today – first time I have tried that and it was a bit tricky but successful.

Yes they are tricky. When I did it I ended up re wirering the doors as I probably had disassembled the mechanism to much. But with the extra lenght there was in the existing belts I have no doubt that belt change is mandatory.

Guy wrote:

I also replaced the lithium battery – I (carefully) soldered a new battery directly rather than use a socket because the sockets I bought were a bit large and may have pushed against the upper shielding

Also good to know in order to get the right battery from the start.

Guy wrote:

Given that this is the first battery change in 20+ years I reckon that the replacement will probably outlive me.  (Old battery measured 2.86V no load, new one was 3.2V).

And based on that, you are right, that next battery replacement is probably not worth thinking on.

Guy wrote:

Apologies for hijacking madskp’s thread for the non-CD-related activities but I wish him all success in getting his Ouverture fully functional.

No need to apologise. Allways great with extra inputs, especially since my Ouverture is still open. I would hate to find out that I should have done this little extra thing when I had just reassembled the whole thing 😉

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

And BTW pin 5 is also ground so if you touch that while measuring you will probably also get 0V. Those small pins in these connectors are usually fididly to measure on

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Depending on how easy it is to see the pin numbers direction it could be that you are counting the pins from the wrong direction?

Counting to pin 4 from the wrong direction seems to be a ground pin which will read 0V

This test is only for checking if 5V drop to 3.8V, so I would expect a 5V reading.

But the could be problems before in the chain. Try to look at page 3.4 in the servicemanual. There is a flowchart with things to test where this is only part of it.

The TV has to be connected to mains for the test, and all internal  connections be intact, but as its part of a test for tv not turning on that should be it.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

ICHooligan wrote:

but the red lights are on the speakers as we speak, even though the MCL2AV box is not plugged in currently.

The speakers are active speakers with built in power supplies, so they will always be in standby indicated by the red light if they are plugged into mains even though there is no source.

ICHooligan wrote:

Assuming they are wired to the main system in the living room and the MCL2AV box is just an addition to let you run them with the IR eye and remote for additional sound in another room.

I would assume that yes. That is the way his system was intended to be used, as a link room to the main system.

ICHooligan wrote:

The IR eye, when the MCL2AV box is plugged in, does not come on, as the red light does not even light up.

You could try to disconnect the IR eye from the screw terminal in the MCL2AV and try to measure the voltage at the screw terminal again. If it now shows 5V that would indicate that the problem is in the cable or the IR eye. If it is still 2V the fault is probably in the MCL2AV.

Also as Guy suggested you could try to connect the old IR eye again to see if that works

ICHooligan wrote:

Maybe there’s something at the main system in the living room that I can reset or test to make sure there is accurate power going to the MCL2A box in the garage?

I don’t think that is nessecary at this point. The MCL2AV should work independently even though the main systems is disconnected. The MCL2AV do not use the 8V power from the main sytem as it has it’s own power suply.

 

Location: Denmark

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