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KolfMAKER

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Viewing 10 posts - 241 through 250 (of 250 total)
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  • KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    Thnx Matador!
    I am gonna use a small external Bt-antenna. Wire goes external via bottom to foot plate.

    But can you help find a DC voltage in the BeoLab 6000 that would work for me?

    Location: The Netherlands
    Favourite Product: BeoSound 9000
    in reply to: Beo Sound I type 2585 aux #34713
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    Dear Warrima,

    What brand and type of CD player did you connect to the BeoSound?

    Location: The Netherlands
    Favourite Product: BeoSound 9000
    in reply to: BeoLab 3500: how to fix ML input selection? #34430
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    Well I can only say that I have made a custom cable (mini-jack > DIN), that connects to the right pins of the MasterLink connection on the BeoLab 3500.

    Since what I connect, is not a B&O device, the MasterLink will not automatically ‘sense’ that an audio source wants to play via this connection.
    So to activate the MasterLink as an audio input, I use the BeoLink remote to switch to the ML-input, by pressing this sequence: “Menu > Menu > 0 > 3 > Go”

    The BeoLab than goes to the MasterLink input and my music plays. So everything does work, but I find the sequence one has to handle on the BeoLink, nut very user friendly. That’s why I am looking for an easier way to get the BeoLab 3500 to be activated on the ML input much easier.

    1. Preferably because it goes to the ML input when switched on.
    2. Or by pressing button to activate a kind of macro for the earlier mentioned sequence.

    Any ideas, suggestions welcome again! ย ๐Ÿ™‚

    Location: The Netherlands
    Favourite Product: BeoSound 9000
    in reply to: BeoLab 3500: how to fix ML input selection? #34428
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    Thank you all for responding and for your suggestions, great!

    At the moment I try to remain a bit stubborn (bear with me ๐Ÿ˜‰

    The BeoLab 3500 is an electronics product, which ‘boots’ when turned on. When booting it sets for the standard settings. Like for instance basic volume level, LED brightness, etc.
    I assume it also sets for a standard audio source/port. So my idea (I still hope it is not a fantasy) is for instance to re-program the settings that get loaded while booting. And by that, set the DIN-connection as standard audio source to ON.

     

    Some products have the ability to change the firmware, or hack it.
    I am curious if anyone has ideas about that.

    Location: The Netherlands
    Favourite Product: BeoSound 9000
    in reply to: Beolab20 Bass issues #33755
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    If you like to read into this topic, hereโ€™s an article about B&Oโ€™s ABL. It describes that ABL is not just one system, it has evolved with new speaker systems. But thereโ€™s hopefully something you will learn form it:

    B&O Tech: What is “ABL”?

    Location: The Netherlands
    Favourite Product: BeoSound 9000
    in reply to: Beolab20 Bass issues #33752
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    As far as I know, ABL was mainly developed to lift the ‘presence’ of bass in the lower volumes.
    So I think that relatively seen, it does not boost bass in the higher volumes.

     

    Probably there are other forum members who know more about ABL. Please comment.

    Location: The Netherlands
    Favourite Product: BeoSound 9000
    in reply to: Beolab 8000 preventive care. #33698
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    Don’t worry about de-attaching the front panels and the glue strips holding them.
    Obviously, you will first have to remove all screws. After that, the glue strips will hold the speaker driver panel and the PSU/AMP panel in place. The glue strips function as gaskets.

    Nevertheless you can push a flat hand screw driver (actually & literally with a flat head), just underneath the panel, and push it up a bit. Do it slow, and as soon as it comes a Biot loose, move the flat head down a few centimeters, and so on.

    “In the meantime do you know if not using them will slow down the process (less heat) or as this nothing to do?”

    The heat inside the cabinet makes the foam deform. As Long as you do not use them, the process will of foam rot will not continue. Be aware though that the damage might already have been done. Some times, some of the copper tracks on the PSU PCB are eaten away. And sometimes that’s even hard to see with the eye. But this is easy to solve with some by-pass wires.

    Location: The Netherlands
    Favourite Product: BeoSound 9000
    in reply to: Beolab 8000 preventive care. #33696
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    Hi Matador,

    Foam rot is a serious thing as it can damage the pcb and electronics, causing malfunction, etc.

    I am not completely sure about which serial number has the improved foam, but I think 12xx xxxx might still have the old foam.

    My advise for proper action is not to apply self cut pieces of plastic. This will not help, because when foam rot is there, it is already damaging the pcb and components. The only way is removing the old foam and thoroughly cleaning the pcb and components.

     

     

     

    Location: The Netherlands
    Favourite Product: BeoSound 9000
    in reply to: The BeoWorld Spring 2022 Prize Draw !!! #33720
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    Great & excited!

    Location: The Netherlands
    Favourite Product: BeoSound 9000
    in reply to: BeoVox S80: which glue for mid-tone driver repair? #33682
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    Thanks very much for this suggestion Christian. Very helpful to know!

    At the moment, I am quite sure I will be able to get the mid-tone driver alive and well again. So I will proceed to find the appropriate glue for attaching the dome back to the tape on the metal ring of the mid-tone driver.

    If you have an advice about the right type of glue, I am open to hear.

    Location: The Netherlands
    Favourite Product: BeoSound 9000
Viewing 10 posts - 241 through 250 (of 250 total)