[KolfMAKER]

@Die_Bogener

Thanks! I will make those checks and come with my findings.

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[KolfMAKER]

To make this thread complete, here’s a picture of the by-pass wire correcting the broken trace.

 

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After having made the by-pass wire for the T2 transformer and concluding it worked properly again …

I today put the PSU/AMP block back in the speaker casing, and connected the speaker panel. So back to the original configuration.

Having done some tests, and using the system for a few hours; it’s properly alive again!

Special thanks to: Beobuddy, Dillen and Die Bogener!

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Thanks for your response Tignum, great info again!

Yes, I will do some reburbishment with Akustikstoff in the near future. I have several BeoLab 8000 grills with terribly looking cloth; wrinkles, holes, discolored, ect.

I do like the looks of Akustikstoff standard black, so that’s what it is gonna be. And I am sure it will look better than the original.

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Update, after adding a wire between 7 + 3.

I added the wire and made a first check powering the system. Result:

• I immediately heard the relay clicking.
• The power LED became alive again; turned green and back to red.

 

Next I measured AC voltage on T2:

• Between 4 + 6 = 43 volts AC
• Between 4 + 5 = 22 volts AC
• Between 5 + 6 = 22 volts AC

Are these the correct measurements?

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Thnx BeoBuddy.

 

So, you measure from 7 along the trace to point 3 where the trace is broken.

• Yes, confirm. From 7 to 3 there is no continuity.

But, you should have continuity between A and 1, and between B (through 7) and 3.

• Between A + 1 = continuity.
• Between B + 3 = no continuity.
• Between B + 7 = continuity.

 

Piece of wire between 7 and 3 will solve it.(or at the point of where the trace is broken).

• I am gone do that.

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Thanks so much Tignum (fellow Dutchman!) This is really good information and the pictures speak for itself; wonderful.

There’s two things I am curious about how you handle that.

1. I think I saw that you put the HPX tape on the length of the plastic grill, but both on the outside and the inside.
   • Is that correct?
   • Does it mean the cloth folds for about 1.5 cm to the inside of the grill, so also covering the notches? (Because B&O utilizes a very small edge where they stick the cloth, not covering the notches)
   • If you make the cloth fold 1.5 cm how do you handle the the notches, so that they are not covered?
2. How do you handle folding the cloth (without wrinkles) around:
   • The circle shape of the top lid?
   • Around the corners of the top lid?
3. Did you order the cloth at Akustikstoff.com by the meter, or pre-cut?

Thanks again, looking forward to your tips.

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[KolfMAKER]

So I did some measurements again.

• Between 1 + 3 = 0 volts / and also no continuity.

Also checked for continuity between the incoming 230v connector and Pin 1 and 3 of the T2 transformer.

• Between A + 1 = yes, continuity.
• Between B + 2 = no continuity.
• Between B + 3 = no continuity.

But I also found something interesting:

• Between B + 7 = yes, continuity.
• Between 7 + 3 = no continuity. (Visually I cannot see any broken trace)

 

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I assume you mean the point in the red circle Martin.

It looks like there should be solder. But there is no pin sticking through that hole, so there is nothing to solder.

 

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Thnx Beobuddy for responding!
This is what I measured for AC voltage (see also picture).

Left side:

• 1 + 2 = 0v
• 2 + 3 = 0v
• 1 + 3 = 0v

Right side:

• 4 + 5 = 0v
• 5 + 6 = 0v
• 4 + 6 = 0v

Just to be complete, I also measured (again) if 230v AC is coming in at the 230v connector on this PCB. The result: positive, 230v has been measured.

Let me know if this is what you meant?
I assume the T2 transformer is dead. I am just wondering why the behavior of the T2 changed from:

• Dead (no red LED at all), to
• Alive with errors (LED changing from red to green and back all the time), to
• Now dead again.

Interested in your comments and advise.

 

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[KolfMAKER]

I might need one.
What is the cost for the T2 trafo and what for shipping to The Netherlands?

You can also send that via PM if you prefer.

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@Beobuddy

You mentioned that replacements for T2 on eBay are often wrong ones. I found this one on eBay: https://www.ebay.nl/itm/284404189940?hash=item4237cf8af4:g:TZAAAOSwLgpcPjdO

 

Questions:

1. Is this one correct?
2. How can I recognize the right one?

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[KolfMAKER]

Thnx Chekler!

Do you also have instruction info for putting new cloth on?

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Very interesting to see this overview of 4 different versions Martin!

Also interesting that the top left and right and the bottom left, are different but have the same number on the top of the PCB and the same number on the label at the bottom.

So I have now component list for two versions, see the attached. The right one is based on the info mentioned by Mexking earlier in this thread. And added the alternatives for certain capacitors mentioned by RaMaBo and Chartz.

I think MexKing mentioned the left component list belongs to the PCB trace pattern also shown in this thread.

 

Question

• Are there really differences in the trace patterns between these two versions?

 

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In the process of re-building the original BeoGram 1000 Pre-Amp PCB …

I am now selecting the capacitors for my order. I noticed that it is hard to find the exact same values as the originals. For the voltage it is not such a problem, I can just step up the value for the voltage, and it will still work.

For the capacitance I am not sure. For instance, a capacitor with 32uF is hard to find. Though I do find 33uF. Also 1.6uF cannot be found, but 1.5uF is available.

Also 80uF, I cannot find.

 

Question

1. Will choosing 1.5uF instead of 1.6uF work?
2. Same; will choosing 33uF instead of 32uF work?
3. Same; will choosing 100uF instead of 80uF work?
4. Same; will choosing 150uF work instead of 125uF?

 

PS. I have searched via:

• https://www.nichiconcapacitors.com/shop/
• https://nl.rs-online.com/web/c/passive-components/capacitors/aluminium-capacitors/
• https://nl.farnell.com/c/passive-components/capacitors/aluminium-electrolytic-capacitors/leaded-aluminium-electrolytic-capacitors

 

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@Styppen

Just to be sure, are you looking only for the rubber feet, or also the metal bolts?

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Felt is an option.

Though I use rubber feet by Delock 10 x 3 mm. These fit in size.

https://www.delock.com/produkt/18309/kaufen.html

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If you don’t have/know how to handle a multimeter, try to find someone who does, and has understanding of power supplies and amplifiers.

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Hi mojofml,

Do you have a multimeter and know how to handle that?

 

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Very unfortunate to hear that, it is such a beautiful product.

I just ha d a look in the service manual, and noticed that the power transformers are near the PCB’s that are in the middle. Of course that are cooling elements. But I can imagine that high temperatures in such small casing, after years of use, do have impact in the electronics.

What I am saying, is that the soldering of the IR-PCB might suffer from loose connections or cracks in the soldering. If you have nothing to loose, you could try to check that, and do some reflowing of the soldering with an soldering iron, or the ‘oven trick’.

 

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