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Although I am not sure that it was fitted with the same amplifier, I used 4 ohm Grundig Audiorama 8000s with my Beocenter 9500 extensively, with no problems. Although someone may be along to give a technical recommendation, I would simply keep volume levels low when initially testing.
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I vaguely recall that pressing the power button slightly causes the TV to turn on. This is some sort of emergency mode in case you have lost the remote. A further slight press gets it to start searching for channels.
You could also try applying 5v to SCART pin 8 – this may turn on the SCART input.
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The service manual has a couple of paragraphs about precautions to take when changing the microprocessor and/or EEPROM modules (eg waiting 20-30 secs after connecting to mains before operating etc). Did you observe all the guidance?
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I think that the US tuner version adds AM frequencies if that’s any use to you!
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I’m unfamiliar with the names of the parts but I believe PCB 5 is the one after the transformer that sits under the door motor, correct?
Yes – to the left of the CD and at the back of the unit.
And 10 Mains seems to be the one where the power cable is plugged into and then has a wire that runs into the transformer, correct?
Yes to this too.
So if both those are the European versions then yes you can just change the transformer wiring.
Which version of the tuner board is fitted? – there are differences between US and European version here also. (Not related to voltage supply, but may affect functionality)
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I can’t tell from the service manual if the RIAA in the BM6500 is a separate board that can be be removed, as it is only shown as part of a diagram where it is surrounded by dashes and market RIAA amplifier acesory, and the text about cutting pin 7 when RIAA is mounted.
It is a separate board that sticks up vertical from the main board just behind the input sockets. There are pictures of an RIAA board attached to the first couple of posts here: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/7576/67094.aspx#67094
EDIT: I only remember because it was discussed in this thread: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/difference-between-source-sugnals/page/2/
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Further to the above, Module 10 (Mains) has an additional transformer that is wired differently according to the supply voltage, so you need to make sure this matches your mains supply.
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Yes – the service manual shows three different wiring schemes for the same transformer: 120v, 230v and 240v.
The fuses listed are actually on PCB 5, so if you haven’t replaced that with the USA one you will be fine.
(Sorry for the edits – hope I haven’t confused you!)
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Yes indeed. But I would try to use the original hole nearest the corner to make sure that it is secure and kept original!
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Your diagram is correct: +ve goes to one of the legs of R107:
When I last replaced one approx 10 years ago I fitted this replacement and it is still working well: https://uk.farnell.com/renata/cr2450-nfh-lf/cell-lithium-button-2pin-3v/dp/1319731?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003
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Have you gone into the ‘Test Mode’ and looked for fault reports? Worth a look, and if nothing shown you could always try a ‘reset to default’ to see if that fixes the problem.
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2 on the TV and 6 on the Beoport
With those options I can control and play the TV from the Beoport, changing channels and hearing the sound of the TV when using the PC screen or Beoport IR sensor. I had to manually add TV to the Beoport’s sources. I cannot access N.RADIO, N.MUSIC etc from the TV.
If I put the Beoport in Opt 2 (and disconnect its IR sensor) I can access the Beoport from the TV, controlling and hearing N.RADIO, N.MUSIC and CD (actually PC-CD – a disc in the laptop drawer). The only strange behaviour here is that N.RADIO still mutes when first starting and/or changing channels.
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had a little time and tried again to connect to my BC6 with master link, and this time with the windows Beoplayer software. Again no reaction on the TV from the N.musc or N.radio sources. Just checked the connections i mys masterlink cable (which I also used for the experiments with the 1611 box) and they are all good
I can try this later with Win10 laptop/Beoport and BV10-32. What option settings did you try on the TV and Beoport?
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Have you checked the L.OPT setting of the BL2000? It should be L.OPT 6.
To set L.OPT 6: (with the BL2000 powered off)
On the Beo4, press the POWER button and LIST together. Then press LIST until OPTION is shown, press GO (centre button), and then press LIST to show L.OPT. Then press 6. The power light on the BL2000 will blink to show that it has been accepted.
Then experiment again with the Beo4 controlling the BL2000.
Strange that you can’t add A.AUX to the LIST button. Is you Beo4 a hotel version with limited functionality?
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need to dig out a Beo4!
Doesn’t SHIFT then an arrow work on the BL5000 for the colours? I haven’t tried this, but perhaps it is like the BL1000:
Beo 4 Beolink1000 MkI & II Beolink 1000 MkIII & IV
[red] [SHIFT] [<] [SHIFT] [\/][blue] [SHIFT] [>] [SHIFT] [/\]
[green] [SHIFT] [<<] [SHIFT] [<<]
[yellow] [SHIFT] [>>] [SHIFT] [>>]
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Excellent – thanks for letting us know how you fixed it, and with a photo!
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That new LC2 thread prompted me to dig mine out and have another go at fixing the IR sensor! As previously mentioned I had been experimenting with a BS3 sensor – I even fitted a 3.5mm socket so that I could move it back to my Beoport for testing that!
Anyway, today I first replaced resistor R1 with a ‘fireproof’ metal oxide 5.6 ohm resistor – this one from RS: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-resistors/1870824
I had to buy 20 so if anyone in UK needs a couple please PM me!
Anyway whilst looking at the IR PCB I checked the continuity of the IR signal and realised that the trace was broken hence the signal wasn’t getting to the main PCB – I must have damaged this inadvertently when I replaced the caps. I re-soldered the IR PCB in place, soldered a quick wire bridge to R9 and now it all works as it should.
I am now going to experiment with finding something to replace that little contact piece that connects the touch sensor surface to the main PCB.
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When (if) you remove the top cover, be very careful to watch that any small pieces do not fall out. Here’s what you should see:
The red annotation is where the little contact piece sits – mine is missing. From memory it’s like a short rubber (conductive) tube about 5mm long, which sits tall enough to contact the silver area of the underside of the dome (which has to be fitted the right way around for it to make contact – so check this if the contact piece is present).
You can actually test the touch sensor circuit by touching the small solder pad in the circle with a metal object, but stay away from the mains voltages also present on the board!
My LC2 ‘repair’ thread is here (although I still haven’t fixed the IR sensor circuit or replaced the contact strip on mine!): https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/lc2-repair/
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From memory it won’t work with the wrong bulb. Try it with an old fashioned bulb of min 40w before removing the cover!
Edit: I think the light circuit needs a small current running through the bulb for it to work properly, hence the need for an old fashioned bulb.
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Beo4 programming is in the manual, but you have to be touching the upper dome whilst pressing the buttons on the remote.
So if the touch sensitive surface is not working then you will not be able to program it.
If you remove the top cover there is a small contact strip (that is easily lost) that provides contact between the PCB and the capacitive touch sensitive surface. If this is missing, or lost, then the touch sensor will not work.
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