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GuyModeratorJoke aside, one thing we haven’t discussed about the use of the 1611 in this thread is how it could be used with a Beosound with Masterlink. It would probably give an extra aux input with a video command. But could it also give an extra sound input, or will the Beosound just open it’s integrated aux input regardless of audio command that is not integrated for example N.music?
Yes that would be a useful experiment, especially for one of the many BeoSounds with only one AUX socket (eg Ouverture), or with no datalink (eg BS9000 or BS3000/3200). I would imagine that some Beogram users would like to remote control their turntables using such a setup, (assuming you could add both BL1611 and MCL2AV).
Unfortunately I don’t have an ML-equipped BeoSound or Ouverture to test it with!
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GuyModeratorI have noticed strange physical mute button (and light) behaviour so I don’t think it’s a fault. I also had different behaviour between Type 2020 and Type 2023 so that confused me further. If I do further testing of MUTE and LED I will stick with the earlier Type 2020 to try to find results consistent with yours.
I had another quick look at this yesterday. I can only replicate the Mute button ‘lock up’ when the MCL2AV is in L.OPT 2.5, not 1.5. I used the BL3500 rather than a TV, and I could not get the same result every time. I think sometimes the result varied according to what order I did the Option settings (BL3500 before MCL2AV or the other way around), and I also think the behaviour changed depending on the order in which I then activated the devices!
The IR sensors are so very sensitive – this makes it very difficult to cover/shield each sensor to simulate two rooms! I resorted to placing the MCL2AV and sensor under a thick duvet to avoid it receiving IR commands!
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GuyModeratoruntil I find a 15V power brick
Great work fixing the fault!
If you intend to use it with passive speakers you could perhaps look for an MCL2P with its built in 15v power supply?
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GuyModeratorFirstly can I ask how you got on with the loudspeaker problem as you raised in this thread?
https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-9300/
With regard to the BC9300 CD door, can you still hear the motor running when the door tries to open? If, so, either the mechanism need cleaning and lubrication or the drive belts need replacing.
A service manual is available on this site for Silver/Gold members, and you can buy new door drive belts here: https://www.beoparts-shop.com/product/belt-for-sliding-doors-beocenter-8000-8500-9000-9300-9500/
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GuyModeratorGreat news that you solved the speaker problem – many people have left a headphone adaptor in the socket in the past (it is neatly hidden), so live and learn!
With regard to the door, I think the motors are supposed to run for a fixed time, rather than stopping because of a sensor. However, the motor probably will stop if it senses resistance.
Maybe have a look at the following thread for some suggestions about cleaning and belts, but if you are going to take the BeoCenter apart then the service manual will be a great help – you need to be very careful with the top and bottom glass panels when putting the unit in the service position, because they can drop out if the glue has perished.
https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/31601.aspx
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GuyModeratorI think it has been mentioned before that my MCL2AV is a type 2020, but there is no sticker with the SW version. Only sticker I could find is on the Eprom.
I just checked an my Type 2020 SW1.3 EPROM has the same lable. On my Type 2023 the label is formatted differently but has the same number up to …72, then is faded/illegible.
With regard to the rest of your testing, overall it looks pretty consistent with my results. The ‘two room setup (TV V.Opt 2, MCL L.Opt 1.5) does look most useful and it is re-assuring that datalink control of the BC3500 works so well. Also the power-off function is logical. (unlike when I used my Type 2023 MCL2AV).
Mute button on IR eye still has no function (but LED turns on and off) no long press standby, so I might have a defect somewhere.
I have noticed strange physical mute button (and light) behaviour so I don’t think it’s a fault. I also had different behaviour between Type 2020 and Type 2023 so that confused me further. If I do further testing of MUTE and LED I will stick with the earlier Type 2020 to try to find results consistent with yours.
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GuyModeratorDone now!
Great new name! ?
@Guy: One thing I don’t think you have tested is how the reaction to an AV + Video source command is from the BL3500 when connected to the 1611 and MCL2AV? Does it just open the video source on the 1611?
Just tried that now (with no IR sensor on MCL2AV):
BL3500 in Option 2 or 6: Behaves exactly as when selecting TV etc without AV first. Just opens the video source on the 1611.
BL3500 in Option 1 or 5: You need to press AV first to open video source on the 1611. (Hence behaves just like most audiomasters in Opt 1)
In both case above, if listening to video source, then pressing SHIFT RADO 6/7 or any audio source causes BL3500 to switch off.
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GuyModeratorIs the BeoSound 9000 connected to any other B&O equipment with masterlink?
Or does the BS9000 have a timer set which turns on the radio?
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GuyModeratorView the end of the remote with an iPhone’s selfie camera (or similar) and you should be able to see the two IR emitters flashing faintly. When you press and hold the << button do they keep pulsing, or only flash once?
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GuyModeratorIs there a chance to lock it by coincidence when entering random false PIN codes? Maybe making unwanted changes to a hidden menu?
According to the service manual, when 5 pin code attempts are made the TV locks for 3 hours, and cannot receive any commands. The three hours must be spent with the TV in stand-by for the timer to run (with the TV connected to mains power – red light on). After 3 hours, the pin code counter is reset.
I found out, that there must be some kind of 4-digit code that makes the set work for about half an hour, regardless of any pin entries, just for test issues, but I didn´t find that one either. Unfortunately, I hsave no access to any kind of service manuals or so.
Yes there is a ‘service code’ of 1 1 1 1 1, but you need to be in the Master code menu to enter it! If it worked it would give you 12 hours of service time.
EDIT: If you join the Forum as a SILVER or GOLD member you will be able to download the full service manual. ?
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GuyModeratorIf I remember correctly HDMI sources (or digital sources) can not be distributed via Masterlink, so that may be the reason for that behaviour).
Yes I think that’s the problem. I did once temporarily setup a BV6 as a link TV from my BV10-32 and was able to distribute hdmi sources (eg Apple TV) with sound and picture on the BV6. I didn’t investigate much but I suspect that it was mono sound coming over the Co-Ax rather than ML. The picture was pretty poor too!
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GuyModeratorThank you though for all the advice, perhaps a MK2 would work better.
No problem.
I replaced my Playmaker with a second-hand Airport Express, the later A1392 version with Airplay 2. I highly recommend this solution!
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GuyModeratorSoftware is up to date, no idea if its a MK1 or Mk2
Playmaker mark1 = type number 2930 – 2931
Playmaker mark2 = type number 2970 – 2971
Differences:
– Only the Mk1 will play FLAC files.
– The Mk1 has to be connected (cabled) straight to the router in order to download firmware updates, whereas I believe the Mk2 can do so wirelessly.Location: Warwickshire, UK
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GuyModeratorBut back to the experiments …
Yesterday I had a quick look at the MCL2AV (L.OPT1.5)/BL1611 connected by ML to my BV10-32 (V.OPT 2) in a separate room. Overall, as a controlling device, the TV behaved pretty much like the BL3500. When playing from the MCL2AV sources (TAPE and CD) the TV menu showed only A.AUX (with either MCL2AV type).
I could also control and listen to the TV from the MCL2AV/BL1611 ‘link room’ by pressing AV TV, but couldn’t listen to any of the TV’s hdmi inputs (eg by pressing AV SAT). After trying to do so, I had to switch the system off and on again to control/hear normal TV.
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GuyModeratorI suggest we rename the topics since it is now far from BL3500 and 1611 only. It would help people to find information about all your experiments. Being not good at naming threads, you can suggest anything that would be relevant.
I agree! The common piece of equipment used in every trial setup is the BeoLink Converter 1611, so how about a new thread title of ‘BeoLink Converter 1611 Innovative Configurations’?
But yes this thread is lenghty and it can be hard for newcommers to fin the info. Maybe we can edit some of the important posts with relevant info tags
I just went back to the first post where I mentioned MCL2AV and added a tag of ‘MCL2AV’. However, this seems to have added that tag to each of my posts (edit – everyone’s posts!) throughout the thread, which I am not sure is right (or useful). I will have a chat to Keith about the use of tags and how it may improve the search function. On that note, when doing a Google search for B&O information I think I am seeing less ‘Beoworld’ hits than before. Perhaps this is related to the new forum?
Another thought with the current situation for Beoworld, and idea could be to make some one or two pagers with a simple info drawing and a short description of the usecases we found in the thread that could be made available to Gold members as and added bonus? This could be true for other threads also. just a thought
Yes this would be useful. Matador produced an excellent diagram that summarised the early breakthrough with the ‘dual input’ BL1611 to BeoLab 3500. When we have finished playing with the ‘added MCL2AV’ we probably need something similar to summarise the one-room/two-room configurations with TV or BL3500 connected. Perhaps when the Beoworld User/Service Manuals library has been re-vamped we could ask for a ‘Novel Configurations’ folder where we store such information?
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GuyModeratorThe adaptor has full bar signal…..connected the playmaker via Ethernet cable.
Sorry but I am confused. Did you buy a powerline adaptor like the one I linked to, or a wireless access point or booster?
The powerline adaptor that I had in mind wouldn’t use wireless at all. One adaptor plugs in next to your Playmaker (and connects with ethernet cable) and the other next to your router (also connected with ethernet cable). The network is then transmitted over your house mains wiring.
If you do indeed have the type that I linked to, then we need to look for another solution. Do you know whether your Playmaker is a MK1 or Mk2, and do you know if its software is up to date?
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GuyModeratorStrange. I suppose that you could try hard-wiring the TV instead but you’d possibly need a powerline adaptor for that.
Alternatively, have a look at this old thread and maybe investigate some of the options including setting a static IP: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/9305/81619.aspx#81619
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GuyModeratorThis sound like a great use case, especially if you have a datalink compatible unit, and also want other sources connected. The Beolab 3500 should still be able to access the Video source in the 1611 I guess?
I hadn’t thought to test this earlier, so thanks for the suggestion!
I just connected the previous BL3500/BL1611/MCL2AV (no IR sensor) setup but included a Y-adaptor from the BL1611’s AAL socket. I then connected an iPad to the extra DIN socket.
So in answer, yes, you can still select a VIDEO source when the MCL2AV is also connected – any VIDEO selection (TV, SAT, DVD etc) will open this input as before. SHIFT RADIO 6 or 7 still work as before for the MCL2AV’s TAPE or CD socket.*
So the addition of the MCL2AV allows you to have a total of three selectable inputs from the BL3500.
* EDIT: One anomaly: when playing the ‘video’ source, pressing SHIFT RADIO 6 or 7 turns the BL3500 off, so to switch sources from video to audio you have to turn the system off first. There are no such problems when changing from audio to video.
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GuyModeratorFor you, there might be an alternative solution. I’ve been thinking about using a spare 3500 square foot space above a jacuzzi in my bedroom. In order to use an NL/ML Converter with an ML Power Box for my project, there must be no ML Audio or Video Master present. Instead, you must link the ML Power Box to the NL/ML Converter. This would give you access to the NL/ML Converter’s AUX input as well as any other sources, like Deezer, TuneIn, etc., that come with any NL products, such the modestly priced Beoplay M3. You would then have a lot of flexibility in the source buttons you could map the sources to. I now have a second NL/ML Converter.
Thanks for this – yes I saw the ML Power Box mentioned by MM in this thread: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/master-link-audio-master/#post-15890
However, I don’t have any NL equipment (yet) and am therefore looking for novel (cheap) ways to make use of much of the older B&O eqpt that I do own. The thread was started by Matador to experiment with the use of a BeoLab 3500 as a stand-alone speaker in conjunction with a BeoLink 1611 converter. This was successful and you can select two different aux sources using a B&O remote, three if you add a Beolink Active. You can get everything required (BL3500, BL1611, Active, remote and leads) for much less than the price of a second hand NL/ML converter!
The more recent experiments have looked at adding an MCL2AV to the mix so that we can add datalink control of BeoCords, Beograms etc. As far as I am aware the NL/ML converter’s aux input doesn’t allow for datalink, hence some of the things we are looking at should enable a system with datalink > ML > NL/ML converter > NL.
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GuyModeratorA few things to add to the above following further testing:
Firstly, I repeated most of the above with the other MCL2AV (Type 2020 SW1.3) and most of the results were the same. However, with the MCL2AV in the useable L.OPT 1 setup, when both rooms are playing, a short press on the BL1000 power button just turns off just that room (turns off, not just mute). A long press turns both rooms off. With the other (newer) MCL2AV (Type 2023 SW2.3) a short press on the power button usually turned both rooms off. Hence the older MCL2AV is probably more user-friendly in this regard.
I also realised that the MCL2AV can also be put in L.OPT 4, where it only responds to commands preceded by LINK. I thought this may be useful where there are two sensors in one room and you want to choose which speakers to use. However, with MCL2AV in L.OPT 4, control from the BL3500 is very similar to when in L.OPT 0. For example, the BL3500 plays TAPE input sound whatever audio source is selected on the remote.
I then wondered about putting the BL3500 in L.OPT 4 and leaving the MCL2AV in L.OPT 1.5. I thought that this could allow same-room independent control. However, once the MCL2AV was activated (using non-LINK commands) it then responded to LINK commands from my Beo4 (in permanent LINK-mode). Both MCL2AVs behaved the same way – very strange!
Anyway, enough for today – apparently the ML cable across the landing is a ‘trip hazard’ and the BeoLab 3500 needs moving from our bed!
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