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Ok, bought the belts, opened up the beast, strangely the tape belt drive, the long/wide one was perished broken, no idea why! So has anyone out there got a sketch /picture of the way the belt is mounted before I start backside scratching etc?
If you bought it from Beoparts they usually come with instructions.
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There is no datalink on the BS3000 aux port (pins 6 and 7 are not used):
As an alternative, maybe have a look at a Beolink Converter 1611 connected to the BS3000’s ML socket. You would need to investigate the Audio Aux Link input to the BL1611, or add an MCL2AV to use datalink. Have a read of this extensive thread to find out more: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/
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one buying advice for the MCL2AV is try to get one with the original power supply to be sure it has the right polarity on the power connector
I took the ‘OnTop’ model number on my MCL2AV adaptor (A31530B), did a search on UK eBay and found this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401496703764
Although I haven’t purchased one, I think it’s the same adaptor but from Sino American. If I needed one I would give it a try.
Hence you may be able to search for the ‘OnTop’ model number of the EU (2-pin) MCL2AV adaptor and find similar.
EDIT: Other UK eBay hits (for A31530B) show what looks like the same adaptor, but the polarity of the output pins is reversed (the MCL2AV needs centre-negative) so you would need to be a bit careful!
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Did we have other combinations in play?
Have you tried these pins with ML both ‘off’ and ‘on’, using MENU MENU 0 9 GO and up/down arrow? I suppose it could make a difference (not that I noticed any with mine, but mine is SW2.0, and your SW1.2).
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And there you go. an extra input that can be chosen by any audio command that is not used for a datalink unit connected to the DIN inputs.
That’s useful! So as a ‘stand-alone’ the MCL2AV can have 4 selectable inputs if you include the AUX/TV socket (using ‘AV TV’). And the MCL input is a one-button-press selection.
Does your test above have the AUX/TV socket connected to BL1611 etc, or is that to follow?
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Great news indeed – many thanks for coming back and letting us know the solution!
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Excellent purchase – and a long ML cable as well which will help with two-room setups. Looking forward to seeing some test results!
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I have fixed the glass panels on two BC9500s using super glue gel, with no problems after approx 10 years. Edit: I meant to add that I didn’t remove the old tape; just applied the gel over the top.
And you can get the new belts etc from Beoparts. https://www.beoparts-shop.com/product-category/beocenter/beocenter-9300/
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One thing I noticed though is that the relay is clicking every time I move the unit just a little bit. I haven’t thought about that before, so it might also have done it before but the unit was always laying still when powered on. I might have to look in to that one of the comming days. Could be a loose connection of some kind
Yes my relay only clicks (twice about a second apart) when I power up the MCL2AV.
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Yes I think we should ignore the transceiver numbers from now on! Mine are all 2046 or 2047, but all show SW2.0 so let’s suppose they all work the same with MCL2AV (except 2045).
Ok, tried this now with both of the IR eye’s and the MCL2AV being stand alone or connected to the 1611 and the BC6. No way in any case will it respond to the timer + reset command or timer + AV for that matter. so no wiser on this matter. Of course my MCL2AV arrived with defects, so it might as well have other defects.
I just tried removing the transceiver grey and/or yellow connectors to my MCL2av to see if I could replicate your mute fault. It works fully with grey and/or yellow disconnected – I just lose the ability to store start up volume (and it starts quietly each time). With those wires disconnected there is continuity between the grey and yellow terminals as shown on the circuit diagram.
Given that your other MCL2AV fault was a 5v supply problem, and the muting circuit seems to use a 5v supply, perhaps whatever damaged TR13 also damaged TR100? Perhaps someone connected an incorrect power supply (or incorrect polarity) in the past.
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We might be going down a deep rabbit hole here…..
I agree!
Have you tried putting the MCL2AV in MCL2A mode (by holding down the TIMER button and pressing RESET (SHIFT MUTE) on the BL1000? If I do this with mine, then use SHIFT RADIO 6 to turn it on, the LED stays on and no sound comes out of the PL speaker. However, pressing the sensor’s MUTE button I can hear the MCL2AV’s relay clicking on and off. Perhaps this works for your mute button?
I have then put the MCL2AV back in ‘2AV’ mode by holding down TIMER and pressing AV.
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I cant find any mention og them in the service manual. trying to analyse a little about it: At J1 on the diagram Option 5/6 there is a dash over 5. Coild that mean option 5 if connected and option 6 is broken? However according to the Older MCL manual option 5 and is programable via remote. Could make sense if used without IR eye of course. But what does option tv on J4 mean then?
I am not at all sure about any of this – but I don’t think it has anything to do with the mute problem.
I did, however, find this in the MCL Handbook Troubleshooting Guide:
I think the type label is inside the back cover – any idea what type yours are? Of course, it was only valid when written hence I would suspect that later transceiver versions may well work!
EDIT: You have already mentioned all this and said earlier that yours are Type 2027 – sorry I forgot!
EDIT: I just checked and the one connected to my MCL2AV is a Type 2046 and seems to work fine!
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I know for sure the J1 is cut on mine, and If I remember correctly J3 is mounted, but not J2.
J1 is cut on mine but I think the two ends were touching. J3 mounted but not J2. And J4 looks like it has been scraped to break the contact – there is no continuity.
(yes J2 and 3 seem to be missing from circuit diag)
My MCL2AV Type 2032 is similar, but with J4 intact:
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However it might not be that as the red LED next to the button is turning on and off when I press the mute button. I might not have mentioned that earlier.
With my MCL2AV in ‘stand-alone’ (just power, iPhone input to TAPE and speaker connected), the LED just flashes as I press the sensor’s Mute button – it doesn’t stay on. The LED comes on permanently when I switch the MCL2AV off with the remote.
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Hi Guy, and thanks for the welcome but having said that a long users here on the forum, just changed the id and I think this is the 3rd forum setup I’m seeing (sadly as we get a bit cut of and finding old threads/postings including instruction/images). Having said that, it’s great to be back as I kind of lost the interest for the forum when it changes, sadly.
Sorry for the confusion, but the main thing is that you are back so that’s great news! And Tignum has kindly stepped in to help (because I was beyond my comfort zone when you mentioned NL!!)
Good luck with the configuration – I will be following with interest for when I upgrade to NL …
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I just found the MCL2 sensor that I previously repaired – luckily I had labelled it as being from the kitchen in my last house. It was right next to the cooker hence exposed to a bit of grease over the 30 years that it was fitted.
Anyway, I have just dismantled it to have a look. You have to be a little careful prising the circuit board away from the front face, and I can see that I broke a few plastic clips last time!
Here’s the mute switch when you peel back the plastic:
And here’s the little square metal contact piece that can be removed:
When in position it ‘pops’ in slightly to connect the center PCB contact to the outer edge (ground) to send the mute command. Here’s the PCB with the metal piece removed:
I think that I had use a tiny dab of solder when I last fixed this one (there was a broken trace to the left), but perhaps yours just needs a clean?
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It is working now though sometimes a little unstable, but also on this one the mute button is not working. I wonder if it’s something on the MCL2AV that is actually not working.
This is strange! I think the sensor relays the MUTE instruction to the MCL2AV via the data stream, and your IR is working so the mute should be as well.
I did once have to take apart an MCL2 sensor to fix a faulty mute switch – from memory it simply wasn’t making the correct electrical contact when I pressed the button. So a faulty switch is not unheard off, but it seems a strange co-incidence that neither of yours work!
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Hi bnousr and welcome to Beoworld!
I don’t have experience of using NL/ML converter, but if you look at the schematic (and questions) in this post/thread it would seem to answer your queries:
https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/flash-your-bo-newer-thread/page/3/#post-16382
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Ahahahahahaha (sadistic evil laugh…) Yes, you have a lot of fancy beocom triangles under table remotes, BUT YOU DON’T HAVE A ML EQUIPPED BEOSOUND! Guess what? I DO! There’s a justice on this world! Et toc!
Now I feel inadequate hence I am searching eBay for something that I can collect when my wife is away at work … ?
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The other systems of the era (Beomaster 3500, 4500, 6500 and 7000) with Powerlink sockets didn’t have RIAA pre-amps, as they relied on the Beogram having a pre-amp built in.
It was a very rare accessory but BM6500 and BM7000 could be fitted with an internal pre-amp, as described back here:
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/7576/67094.aspx#67094
EDIT: The last couple of posts of the linked thread above also refer to RIAA add-ons for the BM3500 and BM4500 – I would imagine that these are quite rare!
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