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Have you treble-checked that you have the leads connected to the aux input rather than output????
There were a couple of people in the archived forum (2012-22) who had problems with BS4 aux inputs – unfortunately the threads that came up in my search don’t resolve the problem, but there is potentially a fault.
If you BS4 is faulty, there is a workaround using a BL1611 converter and the masterlink connection, but let’s hope that you can get it to work without.
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Asa madskp says above, assuming it’s a BS3000 (check here) then it should work as described. The usual problem is that people use a DIN output lead rather than input, but given that it works with another amp (with 5 pin DIN input?) then that should be ruled out.
If a BS3000, it could have a faulty keypad*. Does the display actually show A.AUX when you press the keypad AUX button? However, a faulty keypad shouldn’t stop the remote working, whereupon the display should show A.TAPE (or A.MEM) and open the aux input if you press that button on the remote.
* With a faulty keypad, it is usually a complete button row or column that stops working, so it would be unusual if just the AUX button were faulty.
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Great news about the easy fix. Those wires between boards are becoming more and more of a problem as the equipment gets older and more delicate/brittle. I worry every time I put my BC9500 into the service position – there are just so many connections that could fail!
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Hi Lee, Keith and all Beoworlders,
Firstly, happy with an Annual Draw – good decision!
Ref membership, how about just ‘Basic Member’ and ‘Premium Member’?
I agree with MM that archived Forums should be available to all registered members for free.
Additional benefits of ‘Premium’ status should include:
- Annual Prize Draw
- Manuals, where available
- Ability to Buy/Sell and post ‘Wanted’ ads – we need to tighten up on this, as there are very few places that you can ‘trade’ (private sales etc) within a respected enthusiast community.
Finally I think a flat fee to pull, scan and upload hard copy manuals is a very sensible way forward – there’s quite a lot of work involved hence I am sure that whatever fee is chosen will be very good value for the paying Member.
That’s all for now! Have a good weekend all ?
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Great – come back and let us know how you get on with it, as I am sure that others will have a similar requirement one day!
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I have a Beolink 7000 and Beolink 5000. Both of them worked before I recapped the Beomaster. Highly unlikely that both of them would fail at the same time – especially since I repaired their 2-way communication module 1-2 years ago.
Ah OK that makes sense. I have to replace the caps in my BL5000 a couple of years ago when the two-way suddenly stopped working.
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What remote are you using, and have you checked its two-way functionality with another Beomaster?
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Just wondering, with the active speakers, how do they know which is the left or right speaker? I have the right one on power link 1, the left one of power link 2. It does seem like it’s separating right now, just wondering if it’s correct.
Powerlink cables carry both Left and Right channels, hence each speaker should have a Mode switch on which you select L or R.
Now that you can remote control, you can adjust the balance to check that they are correct, and also store the preset start up volume on the BM7000.
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
I think that you will need to use an hdmi extractor that also incorporates CEC volume control (so that the TV’s volume control can control the device’s analogue audio output volume) . I found something on AV Forums that points to a device called the SHARC eARC audio converter. It is described here but listed as discontinued: https://www.thenaudio.com/product/sharc-earc-audio-converter/
Perhaps you can find one second hand, or someone else knows of a similar device.
EDIT: I just noticed that the newer device also has analogue out, but it’s a bit pricey: https://www.thenaudio.com/product/sharc-v2-8k-earc-audio-processor/
The description states:
Supports CEC switching and command passthrough using the TV remote and the source remotes.
- Use AppleTV / Roku / Xbox / other remote controllers to control the volume level, mute and source switching.
- Volume control applies to the audio system connected to the HDMI output, line-level RCA outputs, and the headphones output.
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I just found a Type number 2076 on UK eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255750627132
From reading the instruction page in the advert, it seems to have been originally packaged with a mains adaptor and a wall unit/transceiver that also served as a charging unit for a BL7000. I vaguely remember reading about this rare item in the old forum.
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Many thanks for the tip! I must admit that I am not looking forward to the repair – she has had the BeoCenter since new and it has about 34 years of dust and dirt inside, and that’s despite me replacing the backup battery in it about 10 years ago! (I was in a rush and didn’t have time for a fuller service.)
I will put some photos in this thread when I get around to fixing it.
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Digging back through my photos and the old forum I remembered that I had already mentioned using a VX sensor with ML devices:
This was the thread: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/5529.aspx
Where I stated: The VX sensor works very well to allow remote control. (And the little adaptor lead at the front allows me to use the VX sensor with newer ML devices without removing the 3.5 jack plug).
Of course the VX sensor only has the ground, +5v and IR connections.
And this was the photo that has since disappeared, showing the adaptor that I had made:
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I think it’s worth a try with just ground, 5v and IR and I think it will work. I have had good results mixing IR sensor with just those connections: I have used both VX sensor (old rectangular shape) and a BS3 sensor (circular) with my Beoport, for instance. I also successfully connected both those sensors to a LC2 in place of the IR board and it worked.
With regard to the other two connections, maybe SCL to CLK and SDA to BUS? I would think there’s a low risk of damage (but equipment may lock up until power is recycled) but then it’s not my equipment!
Looking forward to hearing results!
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Yes that works fine now and will be a great help – many thanks indeed!
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Slight correction to above: After Power/LIST together, the Beo4 screen shows ADD. Press LIST until OPTION shows, then press centre button (GO) whereupon screen shows V.OPT. Press LIST until A.OPT shows, then press 1.
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However, next time I visit my mother-in-law I need to change the door drive belts for her BC9500 so I will have a look at a working example there.
I checked my mother in law’s BC9500 last night and one of the CD door strings is loose inside! I’ll need to fetch it to my house in the coming weeks to give it a good clean and re-thread the strings. The upper glass panel is also loose so I will re-stick that to the plastic frame.
@Beitie – your video no longer works (says it is private), so could you possible re-post for reference?Location: Warwickshire, UK
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I wonder if the difference between type 2026 and 2032 could just if the were part of and extra active speaker kit or a extra TV kit, and maybe being preprogrammed for the correct options in theses setups
Yes that would make sense as the ‘Extra TV kit’ was supplied without the IR Transceiver.
A Type 2031 is mentioned in the old Forum also. Perhaps like mine but packaged with EU power lead.
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@Guy: You have called one of yours type 2023 with SW 2.3 also. I wonder if its actually the same box just for different markets?
I did mistakenly call mine a 2023 earlier in the thread, but I just re-checked the photo and it’s actually a 2032. Looks identical to yours though:
Yours appears to have a screw missing at the back of the CD socket – this probably makes the socket more secure when pulling leads out.
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I just remembered that the type label is under the speaker grill/fret, not ‘on the rear’ as I said in my post. Best to get it right if trying to ask the seller where to look!
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I’m safe to assume there is no way to turn off Hotel Mode, right?
I think that’s correct unfortunately. (Unless the CONFIG option throws up any other possibilities that you could have a play with, but it usually just adds various pre-loaded functions to the LIST button, if there was one!)
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