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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
You probably need to adjust the ‘FM offset’ – quite common if the set has been serviced and the tuner section disconnected or the microprocessor disconnected from the backup lithium battery.
The process is explained on pages 5-1 and 5-2 of the Service Manual, which is available on Beoworld to Silver and gold members. It is probably worth replacing the lithium battery before adjusting the FM offset, as explained here: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-9300-puffer-battery/
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I have had a similar humming/feedback problem with PC speakers – I can’t remember 100% but this may well have been with my BL4s. As far as I remember there were problems when a speaker was either too close to the PC screen (all sorts of high frequency signals inside there!) or too close to a B&O phone PSTN (potential interference from the DECT phone signal). Does re-positioning your speakers away from other components make any difference?
Either way, I would think that a good quality cable should help resolve.
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i have to ask are you a repair guy i need som pointers where to look fore faults.
Sorry but I can only help with very simple faults, but if you post more details of the fault that you are finding then others may be able to help. The pictures that you have attached are not very clear, in that I am not sure what you are trying to show.
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I think that the only difference is that the BeoLab 4 PC do not have powerlink sockets, hence either will work with a PC.
I bought the ‘standard’ BeoLab 4 for use with my PC, and connected via 3.5mm (line-in socket) using this cable from Steve: https://soundsheavenly.com/beolab-4-and-4pc/79-336-beolab-4-4pc-input-cable-minijack-connection.html#/4-length-3m
I tried using them with the Line In switched to ‘PC’, where they go to stand-by if there is no signal (both versions do this). However, I found that the ‘switch on’ delay was annoying – i.e if the PC made a chime noise as an email arrived, then the speakers would only catch the last bit! I eventually moved the switch pack to ‘Line’, and made a new double power cord with a switch on the cable; resorting to simply powering the Beolabs up when the PC was in use.
You could always use your Beoport if you want them to switch on automatically whenever the PC is booted up.
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I have just tried to direct message you with a copy – hope it works!
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I have got hold of a RiAA with 7 Pin Din connectors where the datapins are reversed throug the unit.
Is it this one? https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69068-riaa-amplifier/4199-riaa-ii/
(I assume that it swaps the datalink connection from pin 6 to 7)
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ok have orderet 2 5m cables for my beolab penta ,trye when they arrive.
If they are Beolab Penta then they have built in amplifiers and wouldn’t need the Passive. I assume you mean Beovox Pentas.
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found out that my powerlink cabel , there is no connection in pin. 1 and 6.
In that case it’s a Mk3. You need a fully wired Mk2, like this: https://soundsheavenly.com/powerlink-8-pin-din-connection/23-319-powerlink-mk-2-compatible-black-8-pin-din-cable-with-fully-wired-8-cores.html#/9-length-18m
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i connect it to beosound 4 thrue masterlink , do i need the ir eye to make i work as poweramplifier.
Yes. Usually masterlink would be used to connect the Passive in a link room, and the IR eye is then needed to control.
If using just as an amplifier for the BS4, then connect with Powerlink (Mk2) only.
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I just tested with a Passive Type 1657 SW1.4 (with the little switch). With no connected cables (PL or ML), when powered up, the light comes on Red. The switch has no effect, and the relay only makes a noise when I remove the power.
Perhaps yours is faulty, or has been modified inside somehow to make it permanently ‘on’.
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Here’s that photo as an attachment which may be better resolution enabling you to read the button labels!
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Received a Beo4 remote, believe it’s MK4 with the DVD button available.
Unit powers on fine, TV, RADIO, CD and A.TAPE buttons work fine.
If it’s got a DVD and an A.TAPE button then it’s either a ‘Mk2’ (second from the left below) or a ‘hotel’ version (i.e: not pictured below – unless very special/rare CINEMA version):
First thing I wanted to do was perform a full reset on it before pairing etc. then quickly hit a wall.
Not sure what you mean by reset or pairing. Neither is possible (or indeed requied) with that remote!
Try viewing the end of the remote with an iPhone ‘selfie’ camera, and see if the IR transmitters glow when you press the Power or LIST buttons.
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
I checked the BV1 service manuals available on Beoworld, and unfortunately they don’t go down to circuit board level. BV1 was one of the early B&O products that moved to a system of ‘module replacement’ rather than component level repair, with faulty modules being sent back to the factory.
If the BV1 was based upon an earlier B&O TV then there may be a similar service manual available, but failing that I would think that a good old fashioned TV repairer (if you can find one) could has a good guess at the component required. Or perhaps a Beoworld member has a BV1 that they are prepared to look inside.
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Can you answer the revised question?
Ah I see! In that case the answer is a firm ‘no’ – getting the info out of the Beocom/PSTN is not possible.
Maybe scroll through the phonebook whilst videoing the screen, and then use AI to produce a readable copy. Totally beyond my capability, but I could imagine it being possible!
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Is there currently a way of copying a shared phonebook to/from a Beocom 6000.
Welcome to Beoworld!
The phonebook on a BC6000 is either stored on the handset (‘personal’) or on the PSTN (‘common’). You can change this in settings.
If the handset is already set to ‘common’, the numbers will be stored on the PSTN, and you should be able to access them from any handset connected to the same PSTN (as long as that too is set to ‘common’).
If the numbers are stored on a handset (‘personal’) and you change the handset type to ‘common’, the numbers stored on the handset will be deleted, and replaced with any stored on the PSTN.
If the numbers are stored on the PSTN (‘common’) and you change the handset type to ‘personal’., then the numbers previously stored on the PSTN will be copied to the handset.
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Is this what you need? (from the ‘Fan Adjustments’ section on page 4.9 of the service manual):
In this menu, the following settings can be made:
Fan full speed temp 45-64
Fan stop speed temp 36-50
Fan PWM min. 16-39
Fan PWM max. 20-41The following can be read out:
Fan 1 speed 2057 RPM
Fan 2 speed 2002 RPM
Temperature 1: 42c
Temperature 2: 24cLocation: Warwickshire, UK
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if I get hold of an HDMI audio extractor with a digital coax out, then connect that to the BS3 and choose that as the sound input for that particular AV input, that might work.
Yes that should work fine*. When hdmi inputs were first introduced on B&O TVs, users with ML systems were told to add a SCART connection in order to make sure that sound was distributed to link rooms. This was quite straightforward when, for example, DVD2 had both hdmi and SCART outputs.
* EDIT: Actually I am not sure that it will! It’s still a digital input to the BS3. Maybe an hdmi extractor providing analogue output that can be fed into the BS3 would be better.
* EDIT2: From the BS3 Userguide p14:
NOTE! Only sources with an analogue signal
can be distributed from a main room TV to
the link room system.I have had mixed results trying to distribute hmdi sources from BV10-32, as described in this post (and the wider thread): https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beovision-10-and-new-apple-tv/#post-51987
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I’m not sure which version of PTSN it is, so I have a ttached a photo of the back of it, hoping that will identify it.
That’s a Beoline EU Mk2. If you take the second to fifth digits of the number under Beoline (1113068 GB), I can see that its Type Number is 1130, and then you can make reference to that table. The GB next to the number indicates that it is built for the UK market and should be able to provide caller ID with compatible phones.
Unfortunately the table indicate that the BC6000 Mk1 is incompatible with that PSTN – basically not all functions work. I had a similar problem connecting a BC2 Mk1 to a Beoline Mk2 where everything worked except clock and phonebook.
First I would be tempted to try your original PSTN again, resetting phones and PSTN before setting up the whole system from scratch.
Failing this, I would be tempted to replace your three BC6000 Mk1s with the much more capable and reliable BC6000 Mk2s – they are quite good value on UK eBay currently.
Lastly, here’s a copy of notes that I have made about using the service menus in Mk1 and Mk2s – this may be useful:
Beocom 6000 Mk2: Service Menu: 9#9#9✱INT
(allows handset/base reset and to check SW versions etc)
Beocom 6000 Mk1:
Service Menu: 9 – # – 9 – # – 9 – ✱ – (DOT) – 7 – OK
1: HS SW VERSION
2: BS SW VERSION
3: CURRENT VOLUME
4: MAX VOLUME
5: NOMINAL VOL
6: MIN VOLUME
7: FORCED TRANSM
8: EEPROM EDIT
9: RAM WATCH
10: CONTRAST
11: SERIAL NUMBER
12: ONTIME TOTAL
13: ONTIME OFFHOOK
14: ONTIME CHARGER
– When replacing the battery, always press: 9#9#9✱655 OK
– Reset base: Press (dot) 7 000 8
– Reset handset: Press (dot) 7 000 9
– Read out Handset software version: Press (dot) 7 000 1
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Are the Beocom 6000s Mk1 or Mk2? The Mk2 has an INT button to the left of the wheel.
What version of PSTN are you using? Is it the second one along on the table below?
Check compatibility between phone and PSTN using the table – for example there could be problems using BC6000 Mk1 with Beoline EU Mk2.
You could also try re-setting all handsets/bases and setting the system up again from scratch.
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Sorry, my impatience made me click too many times, perhaps a moderator can take away two posts? Thanks! Johan
👍
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