[Guy]

I have one of those! Yes it’s just an on/off switch with figure 8 connectors as you describe.

I think it was made for those who like to power down their devices when not in use – i.e they don’t like leaving them in stand-by. This could be linked to legislation in some countries but I am not at all sure.

EDIT: And see Peter Pan post here: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/311/290767.aspx#290767

[Guy]

It’s thread drift for this thread, but I am helping a relative sort out some tech/AV gear and have a Google Chromecast HD for a few days. I just tested it with my BV10-32 and realised that you can setup the Google Chromecast remote to control the TV’s volume in the same way that a siri remote does! The Chromecast menu also offers the facility to turn the TV off/on (I could only get ‘off’ to work) and to change inputs, but I couldn’t get the latter to work.

I am quite impressed that such a cheap device (£35 in UK) has the IR codes to control a Beovision!

[Guy]

deaddruid wrote:

I think I’m going to have to find someone with a Beoline2 base so that I can try to connect the Beocom5. That way I’ll at least have a little more information – if it works, then the problem is my Beoline2, if it fails, then it’s more likely the phone. Mark

That’s a good plan – or you could try it with any of the compatible bases shown in the table. Beoline 2 should be the most straightforward, however.

[Guy]

Hmmm … I think I would try a base reset next.  I am not sure but perhaps you can transfer the numbers to be stored as a Personal Phonebook on one of the BC6000s, and then transfer back to a Common setting where numbers are shared later.  This is within Settings, Handset, ‘Handset Type’ but check the manual to be sure – and maybe write all the numbers down (or take a video as you scroll through the phonebook).

If you do reset the base, try registering the BeoCom5 on its own first.

[Guy]

deaddruid wrote:

The list of registered phones viewed from a 6000 mk II (pressing the INT button) has only three slots used (1, 2 and 4).

Try going into the Settings menu from the centre button. Scroll to ‘Base’ and then ‘Remove Handset’. Using the wheel will then scroll through all the registered handsets. Pressing INT and scrolling will only show the handsets currently connected.

[Guy]

According to the compatibility table they should work together:

From the Type number I assume that your base station is a Beoline EU Mk2, so you need to read note 2 above.

Two things to check:

• Are you opening up the Beoline to registration by powering it down and then up again?  I think it stays open for 5 minutes.
• Are you 100% sure that no other handsets have been registered to the Beoline – I think the maximum is either 6 or 8?

 

[Guy]

I can only assume that those sheets would protect from scratches caused by opening the plastic ‘hinge’ beyond its normal range of movement.

[Guy]

When I first opened mine it was screen downwards on an old cot mattress. I re-inserted the top part of the bracket so it could pivot (unfold) upwards.

I then reversed the tv so that the back was downwards and the screen carefully pivoted up.

[Guy]

Dillen wrote:

Note the note about cable and socket matching here:

Hi Martin – yes I did have to trim the ribbon cable very slightly as described, so that it would go into the housing. When I next have time to disassemble I will double check that the ribbon is pushed fully home and will also have a look at the alignment of the contacts.

[Guy]

matador wrote:

Picture updated with correct wiring for 40+ people !

Great work, great amendment! I can’t believe people are so picky about what channel enters what ear!! ?

[Guy]

I have a faulty V1-32 that I bought with a similar fault with similar LED behaviour. I saw reference to a leaking battery somewhere on the forum so I opened up the TV and searched the PCBs inside, and found nothing remotely like a battery! I think my internal investigations damaged something else because now I get no lights whatsoever. It’s now back in a box waiting for donor parts, or to become a donor!

EDIT: Mine didn’t show up in the app either (when connected to my network via RJ45).

[Guy]

Quick update regarding my BC2300 CD problems:

All the spares (new laser, batteries, capacitors) arrived about a month ago, and finding myself with about an hour to spare I decided to replace the laser first. It was quite straightforward using the instructions within the YouTube videos linked earlier.

Anyway, on testing, the CD player burst into life and worked faultlessly, for about 20 minutes …. ? Then the same fault re-appeared and I couldn’t get it to play any CD again! I ran the test mode and am still getting the same ERR 2 focus error.

Pressing family matters mean that I am unlikely to investigate further for a few weeks (hence my absence from the forum recently), but when I do have time I plan to replace the SMD capacitors on the CD driver board. I did mean to do this first but didn’t have time to devote to my least favourite pastime of soldering!

I do worry that fitting a new laser to a faulty CD driver board may have damaged the laser, but hopefully my concerns are unfounded.

More to follow, but not for a while …

[Guy]

Have a look on the back of the BV26 Service Manual. This has diagrams of all the stand options with Type numbers. However, I can’t recall ever seeing one in person!

EDIT: I am pretty sure that the same table stand is used for the BV7-32. It has attachment holes for the Beolab bracket, although I think these are covered when the BV6-26 is mounted.

[Guy]

Jmen wrote:

Does anyone know if a service manual for Beoline 2 is accessible with membership?

Sadly no – the Beoworld library only holds User Manuals for Beoline.

[Guy]

That’s a shame.  But a good exercise in Beovision stand disassembly!

How about trying to find a BV6-26 table stand, Type Number 4092? That’s significantly shorter.

[Guy]

Madskp wrote:

I will try to disassemble and look into it

When upside down you will see an opening (hole), possibly covered by a sticker. Rotate the stand on its base until the hole lines up with the pole and you will see the four screws. As you can see in my photo, there is usually a DIN connecter within the pole to lengthen the motor control cable for the floor stands.

My photo was from a job lots of 5 stands (plus wall mount) that I bought from ‘cashconverters’ for about £40. The 5th stand was for a BV10-32 which was all I wanted, so I sold all the others, got a ‘free’ BV10 stand and made a small profit!

[Guy]

The metal of the pole is a constant cross section and if I recall correctly there are four screws that go into the pole from the base vertically from below.  With a very neat (accurate) cut this should be very achievable.  I assume that you need somewhere between table stand and floor stand height?

EDIT2:  I think (not 100% sure) that the screws are self-tappers hence no need to make a new internal thread in the pole.

EDIT: Zoom in on the one that is missing its pole and you will see the screw holes:

[Guy]

B3OHACK3R wrote:

finding out if the BS9000 can handle the “Server” or “CD2” sources

Sorry a quick thread drift question for B3OHACK3R:

Is the IR command ‘Server’ the same as ‘CD2’? I keep a list of newer Beo4 Navi commands, and had not come across ‘Server’. I have listed ‘JOIN’ as being the same command as ‘CD2’. (CD2 was avail under LIST in early Beo4s such as AV and DVD version).

Sorry for thread drift!

[Guy]

Welcome to Beoworld!

Several options will move you in the right direction:

Use a Range Reducer – see here: https://www.beo4.faithweb.com/

If you have a Beo4 Navi, you can reduce the IR output.

You can also put devices in A.OPT 0, where they will not respond to any remote control.

You can also put some (not all) devices in A.OPT 4, where you have to select/press LINK on your Beo4 before pressing further commands.

See your Beo4 and/or device manuals for details of how to set A.OPT options, and for details of how to add the LINK function to the LIST button of Beo4.

[Guy]

Thanks for the update and glad that you got it all working, albeit with a few hiccups along the way!  I am surprised that you can’t disable that TV volume ‘pop up’.  @Madskp too had similar problems with an Apple TV remote, also resolved by a ‘restart’ of the remote, if I remember rightly.

Tignum wrote:

I might tape off the Hub IR receiver to avoid this happening.

I assume that this is easier (more easily reversible) than learning a different remote (to cancel the first). I assume that the S8 has no A.OPT 0 equivalent, even in fixed volume mode?

[Author]

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