[Dillen]

It’s blocked in the mechanism.
If in Denmark your deck is welcome here.

Martin

[Dillen]

The original bracket for the flying idler was black.
The last original replacements were white – as the one pictured, and they are known to break.

Martin

[Dillen]

Badly adjusted << and >> buttons?
There are voltage readings stated in the service manual.

Martin

[Dillen]

It’s solid enough, unless you misuse it or pack it badly for transport. But I suppose that goes for all tonearms.
Does it sound any different? – Well, not that I can tell, but perhaps it can be measured.
It’s much lighter and has a different resonance frequency.

Martin

[Dillen]

AdamS wrote:

I think the first picture looks better, too, but it’s irrelevant as the cartridge is the wrong colour in both pictures! :o)

So is the light at the speed dial. Looks all LED’ish.

Can’t your panels align properly?

Martin

[Dillen]

Yes, the tape mechanism is the same, but keep in mind that the tape controller
and the tape drive has been calibrated together.
If you replace only the tape mech, you must realign everything on the tape controller to match the new tapeheads etc.
Best is to keep the things paired and replace both the drive and the controller.
– Or repair your drive. What has broken?

Martin

[Dillen]

The outer shield of the round DIN plug carries the chassis ground.
If it still hums (that depends on your amplifier), the center pin in the DIN (signal ground) could be shorted to the chassis screw as well.

Martin

[Dillen]

Are you thinking about the wrong types of transistors fitted as 5TR4, 5TR5 and 5TR6 in the safety circuit?
They can cause the primary fuse to blow for no apparent reason and are found in
some Beomaster 2200 with serial number earlier than 1470001.
Servicemanuals give out wrong part numbers as well.

5TR4 should be a 8320408 (BC 256 or similar)
5TR5 and 5TR6 should be 8320409 (BC 174 or similar).

Martin

[Dillen]

Check the diode.

Martin

[Dillen]

Find an original manual.

Martin

[Dillen]

TR31 and TR32 are only one or two cms apart, in grids G1 (TR31) and F1 (TR32).
Most (but not all) original Beomaster 1900 / Beomaster 2400 servicemanuals have excellent PCB layouts.

Martin

[Dillen]

Replace capacitors on the decoder/audio PCB.

Martin

[Dillen]

Chatol of course.

Martin

[Dillen]

In the Master 41 service manual, where the versions B, K , S and RG are covered,
the B is mentioned as the model housed in bakelite.
Of course there must be another explanation for the 510B etc.

S is mentioned as a “konsolskab” (Skab = cupboard or closet), so a console model.

“Klangbund” is not really a part of the model name.
The Klangbund (“Soundboard”) is a type of passive radiator for low frequencies, working on what B&O described as an “elastic pillow” of air between the speaker cone and the radiator.
In fact it is the back plate of the receiver, and it’s a (relatively) airtight cover, that will “play along” with the bass (read: deepest notes) using a wall behind the receiver as reflector.

Try listening to it if you get a chance, it actually works.

Martin

[Dillen]

B: I think this was only used for bakelite models that were also available in a wooden cabinet. At present I can only think of Master 41K/41B

U: Universal (suitable for both DC and AC mains)

CH: Chartol

K: I think is for Kabinet (cabinet housed) – usually with built-in speaker. I believe this is a leftover from when many radios were also available as chassis’ only

S: Used mainly for console models. S could be for Stående (Standing) or solitair

RG: Radiogramophone (radio/gramophone combination)

RGS: Standing Radiogramophone

BRG: Bord-Radiogramophone (tabletop-radiogram)

P: I think is for Papir-isolation (paper-insulated leads – due to WW2 material shortages)

Martin

[Dillen]

1974/75 is correct.

Martin

[Dillen]

Check the muting switch.

Martin

[Dillen]

Drill through the breaks and glue in steel pins.

Martin

[Dillen]

No.
The small thermo relay has a yellow reset button sticking out the front near the “Overload” printing.

Martin

[Dillen]

If the whole speaker goes silent, failing contact in the safety (thermo-) relay.
Give it a blast of contact cleaner and excersize it a couple dozen times.

Martin

[Author]

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