Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
DillenModeratorQuestion is not why something works.
Question is why something doesn’t work.
In your case, – where things basically works when commanded from outside but not
from its own operation panel, there must be a problem getting the commands from the panel to the processor.Most problems of this sort are caused by cables, connectors, solder joints and
stuck switches. However, the keyboard reading circuit could also be at fault.
If the display on the front panel is also garbled, perhaps some circuit shared by those
two functions should be looked at.Martin
DillenModeratorWhen you fit the black subplatter to the hub, make sure to match the
three “protrusions” on it with the three small indentations on the hub.
If you don’t the subplatter will ride too high.And you have the platter upside up – right? Your photo shows its downside.
Martin
DillenModeratorFront panel cable/plug correctly seated?
One or more buttons stuck down?Martin
DillenModeratorYou should be able to find out the other leads as well using an ohmmeter / continuity.
Martin
DillenModeratorA handrule is that the “warmest” color is always right.
If your cable has red and white, red is right and white is left.Martin
DillenModeratorIf the relay is chattering, it could be the diode inside the housing has shorted.
I have seen this happen a couple of times.All fine inside the relay housing? – Check the adjustment and position of arms and levers
and that the small wire spring on one of the relay box arms is still present.Martin
DillenModeratorGreat progress! I would measure the woofers as the doped cones will likely change the parameters causing a crossover modification.
I agree. Even a few grams usually make quite a difference.
– And even more so will the change to rubber surrounds.
I tried it a few times, but when I measured and compared T/S I found them
to be far out compared to the original specs, so I ripped the rubber off
again and changed it back to foam. After a few hours playing time, allowing
the new foam to losen up a bit, everything was spot on, back where it belongs.
I never used rubber again, where foam was used originally.But of course it can be done if you really MUST have rubber.
A compensation for the lack of cabinet volume
needed to satisfy the T/S with rubber (I seem to remember them requiring
8-10 liters) could perhaps be made by introducing a filler driver of some sort, though
driving it right phase-wise could be quite a task and would almost
definitely require a bit of signal processing – not least because it would
almost definitely need to be rear-facing due to lack of front area.
A passive radiator would require a too large area to have any effect, – far
more than what is available – as would surely a bass reflex system,
– and we must not forget that if both the midrange and woofer drivers
are changed to rubber surrounds, both will need compensating, and
not necessarily in the same way.
But why? – When you can just fit foam.I am looking forward to seeing the frequency response and new filter calculations.
Martin
DillenModeratorIf some lights come on, but nothing more happens, it could point to the
CPU not running or not being reset correctly.
Most like a capacitor problem.Check power supply voltages and look for excess ripple from dying filter capacitors.
Martin
DillenModeratorWrong wattage lamp for the FM1 indicator?
Yes, they are critical.Martin
DillenModeratorThe lifter arm with the small pad should work in the groove, so it can lift and lower the wheel.
Martin
DillenModeratorRead my post in this thread:
https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beogram-1902-dust-cover/
Martin
DillenModeratorI like to use a teflon-based oil called “Liquid bearing”, but any good long-term oil or light grease would be fine.
Parts here.
Martin
DillenModeratorNote the note about cable and socket matching here:
Martin
DillenModeratorYou don’t replace it – it must be taken apart, cleaned and lubricated. It can all seize up
in dry lubricants.
New idler wheel, new lifting arm friction pad and a new belt.
The motor will almost surely also need new bearings in order to run correctly.
All of these parts are available.Martin
DillenModeratorNo! Not the circuit board (that’s not an easy task).
The large dial panel = the large black metal facia with the white lettering/frequencies
and channels, that the sliding dial pointer travels on, – that also holds the lamps.
One screw each corner of the panel (= two screws each end of the Beomaster).Martin
DillenModeratorThe large dial plate will have to be losened.
That’s four screws from below.Open the Beomaster and swing the bottom section away from the top section.
Push the dial pointer to a place where you can access its fastening to the string.
Mark up on the string where it is fitted to the pointer so you can fit it back in the
same place, remove one of the two small screws and losen the other so you can
swing the small clear plastic string holder away from the string which zigzags under it and between the screws.
Then take out the four screws holding the dial plate.
When done, make sure to align the dial plate correctly, so that both the dial
pointer and the sliding knobs are free to travel.(Same procedure for Beomaster 1200).
Martin
DillenModeratorYes, that’s correct. Both sideways and up/down. The metal “ears” mustn’t touch.
And it should be when the deck is upside up (not upside down as in your photo).The bushings are actually for transport safety, because the heavy motor would be free to
swing around pretty wildly in transport, if they weren’t there to limit its movements.Martin
DillenModeratorThe important thing is that the motor bracket is free floating, and its
metal “ears” will not touch the nylon bushings (or you will hear rumble/whirring/running noise).
If, when you have put it all together, and the deck is in its normal upside up position,
the metal brackets are close to the bushings, you could try swapping the two bushings
and see if it ends up better centered.There can be a washer under the nut as well.
Martin
DillenModeratorThe arm position is controlled by a steel rod running in a groove in a cam wheel.
It could seem to be put together wrongly.Martin
DillenModeratorAny passive Beovox models would suit it, really.
But Beovox S45 (Type 6302 or 6312) springs to mind.Martin
-
AuthorPosts
