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Yes that should work. The MCL2P would take both L and R rear signals from the TV and send to the respective speakers. I think you’ll need a Powerlink Mk2 cable between TV and MCL2P in order to get power on/off and muting. I don’t think you’ll find BeoVox3000 in the BV7’s speaker menu, so you’ll have to experiment with other speaker choices to get the best sound, at an appropriate level.
I agree with this. Use a Mk2 cable, and I’d probably choose BeoLab 2500 or BeoLab 4000 as the rears which will be a similar equivalent in Active. 🙂
You need to use two-step authentication to log in to Google, otherwise it just will not let you log in. Then, you will need to update the software – then (in my experience) reset the TV to default and log in again. After that, leave the TV for a day or two to ‘stabilise’
The BV14 is a lovely TV, but… as with all B&O products of the era, it’s all about software.
Hopefully not… *cough*
The white is a painted finish and doesn’t go sticky. It also looks really nice, but white seems to be going out of fashion these days.
It’s just the black and the grey which suffer from the stickiness (which cannot be remedied, believe me). All other colours are fine as they’re painted as opposed to the soft-touch finish which breaks down…
Steve is your man for cables on here!
And here’s another image… This time a BeoLab 20 Mk2