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auric wrote:

What is “accu?”

Die_Bogener wrote:

What do you expect without accu?

As you probably gathered by now, @auric — but just in case — @Die_Bogener means a battery. The abbreviation comes from the rechargeable nature of it, an “energy ACCUmulator”.

[trackbeo]

Beosound 2, almost-equally iconic, was updated with Mozart. (Understood not mentioned in the same breath above, because not battery-powered and 2.5 times more than BS1-gen.1 cost.  But what price beauty… it’s what I would choose except for price, because my BS1 so rarely leaves its AC base.)

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Spraying vinegar, or bleach (Clorox Clean-Up™ is bleach&soap&water), can sit on styrofoam without ruining it, I believe…  Alas, I think he’s in Australia which makes shipping this oversize monster from the USA kind of a waste?

May I ask which of the sheet products you are using to encapsulate?  Folks always suggest Visqueen liners, like they used to put under mobile homes, but that doesn’t work on crushed stone.  I once found a multi-layer specialty product, but it isn’t in Google anymore, just dozens of application contractors (thank you SEO companies).

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“…and others”, according to the Radiomuseum, “output voltage switchable between 6 – 7,5 – 9 and 12 volts DC,” because why not work with the smaller ones, too — https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/bang_beopower_1000.html

https://www.beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=1168

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https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/39440.aspx

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My experience has been that 3rd generation (the with-separate-power-cord type) is still going strong, both as a solid, never-reboot AirPlay2 (with the last firmware) endpoint and as a gateway of wired Ethernet to the “main” Wi-Fi router.  The 1st generation (integrated-plug) has started to fail, sometimes seemingly having little Wi-Fi range, though it’s usually the tough-to-repair power supply at fault. Hopefully @XavierItzmann will reply too.

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As of July 10, amazon.com is selling their remaing Beosound Edge units at $2,234.81.  (Roughly the same as last year’s sale price at Peter Tyson.)  Use the search term “Bang & Olufsen 1666130 Beosound Edge” (or its ASIN, B07PMDVX72) because some third-party is also selling some, at near retail price!  Natural aluminum, black fabric, USA.  As the listing says, “Be sound edge is Wi-Fi enabled… Equipped with bobolink multi room functionality…” (:-) Chirrup to you!

[Edit: July 11, price raised to MSRP.  Wonder if they are prepping for “Prime” offer of “fantabulous discount”.  View the waterfall price chart at camclcamelcamel.com.]

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Could be worse… At $60,000, Linn is getting in on the act: a new Jony-Ive-designed Sondek (LP12-50[th anniversary edition]) debuted today, also limited run, of 250: https://www.linn.co.uk/uk/turntables/lp12-50

It is minimal but it isn’t beautiful — OK, well maybe, to one who has USM Haller everywhere.  At least the 72-23 is arguably pretty, and includes “Sond”-making equipment with the turntable!

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+1 @Sandyb: At least this item conjures up some real money, maybe even enough to pay for a designer or two for another year.  Versus calculate how much extra profit there was for making “gradient green” BeoSound 2’s, given they limited the production run to 15 — that’s right, fif-teen! — units.  Even if the excess MSRP went 100% to B&O and the margin on the base sale price also went to them and not dealers, that amounts to a hill of beans.  They shoulda done 100-999 if they wanted to make extra money, that’s not what it’s about.  [Edit: Website vague, might be 15 “per market”, still de minimus.] Will we see “ombré orange” & “variegated violet”, and will that matter to the bottom line either?  IF they can sell all the 72-23’s, no matter what pejorative you apply to the “man-pad” decor, it’s a good thing for everyone, both here, and in Streuer.  The only way it’s bad for us here is if they are so successful that they decide to double or treble the current prices on everything else because “it worked!”

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Late to answer you, but technical info: Wall bracket is available for 55″ and 65″ only.  Distance from wall to front of wings is 13.1 cm, distance to front of soundbar is 19.2 cm.  One thing not shown in the technical drawings is that the bracket lines up with the wings, but at the bottom edge, the rear panel hangs down slightly lower than the front panel, leading to a sort of “chamfered edge” effect, very nice detail.

All dimensions are available from: https://www.bang-olufsen.com/en/us/soundbars/beosound-theatre and scroll down; click on “Product Sheet Download”.  (Your dimension is on pages 6 & 7.)

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(Note: that’s assuming you are not in the USA, which never received the DECT version.)

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3.5mm plug half-pulled-out / not fully inserted into jack on AirPort Express?

Despite the fact that cables don’t die and active devices do, cable failure of some kind is nevertheless more likely than the Beosound 9000 Aux input going bad.  But that’s easy to test, by unplugging the BS9000 DIN end of the adapter cable, and if there’s still a hum on Aux.In, it’s likely the BS9000 itself.

If the AirPort Express is gen.1 (hard plug to wall), possibly it’s dying — that power supply doesn’t last forever.  But usually other stuff happens instead/also, like its Wi-Fi range gets much smaller.  If the AirPort Express is gen.2 (separate line cord), it’s too soon to be dying, which is why I suspect the cable (or its connectors).  If it is the culprit, maybe replace it with a brand-new Wiim Mini rather than trying to source an old, used AirPort Express on eBay.

 

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Really?  I thought it just listened to the output and calculated a boost as a percentage of the input, i.e. you could be driving cardboard (or flax!) with tubes, for all the DSP algorithm cared.  This is how Dirac Live can work inside a MiniDSP DDRC-24 (e.g.): Dirac knows nothing about the speakers or the amp, only what it hears from its microphone input when it sends out a known signal sweep.

And “speaker elements” == “drivers” colloquially so yes, s/he is indeed hooking up the inexpensive Symfonisk amp to the 4000’s drivers and bypassing or removing the electronics.  BeoWorld description claims 35 watt x 2 (ICEpower version mk.2), and supposedly the amplifier on the Symfonisk speaker is the TI TPA3116D2, a two channels x 30 watts per — so it could work OK unless you crank the volume up, maybe? [Edit: the DSP will take some headroom too.]

P.S. @carljh, kindly use your first sale to buy a gold membership here, in order to post to sell stuff.

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tph wrote:

For the record, that is not how the Level volume control works

Thanks! I’ll play with mine again next week. So just “for the record”, could you *please* comment on how the Beosound 1’s top button really works? (2.gen, no GVA so just the single center) You can see/read all the speculation I went through…

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Yes, the BS1’s rotary volume knob is easier to use than the Level’s touch control, where you can miss and “set-to-here” the volume rather than increment or decrement the volume at the edges.  (Particularly annoying when you get max-volume instead of +1!) Likewise picking up the unit to move it outside doesn’t upset a BS1 but the Level ‘s controls are close to the handle so sometimes it Play/Pauses.  On the other hand, children might ruin the tweeter of a BS1 while transporting it (mostly but not guaranteed by the neck, because it’s so heavy) — which will not happen with a Level.

But the Play/Pause button on the BS1 is the most finicky I have *ever* used: Press it just long enough, and just hard enough, or sometimes it does nothing.  It’s so finicky, I still don’t really know for sure if it’s a capacitance detector switch, because of course the track-forward and track-back *must* be.  But “hard enough” seems to indicate a physical switch in place of, or in addition to, a detector circuit.  Licking your finger or switching to a thumb in place of forefinger don’t seem to differ, thus my decision that there’s a button buried in there somewhere.  Or maybe not, rather some deformation of the plastic top is necessary to approach the antenna of the detector?  Or is it some battery thing because Pause works more often than Play?  I dunno, but it’s an annoyance and not as surefire as a BeoCenter 9500.  (In the old forums someone else agreed, so it’s not my one-off.)

Both of them have acceptable sound but neither is amazing.  Obviously there’s a bit of stereo in the Level, but if you’re always going to put it in the unused rear corner of a kitchen counter, even if it’s flat against one of the walls and not spanning the corner diagonally, you aren’t really getting much.  I think your use case should depend on the room.  If you hate the thought of the BS1 getting splashed with foodstuffs, get the Level and a wall hanger, and you can unhook it, flat, to party.  Of course that loses the stereo effect entirely (not documented but it’s what I hear) because on-wall doesn’t have left/right and out flat is trying to broadcast a uniform sound field.  Personal opinion: Use the Level against a side wall on a bathroom counter where the location of the user is constrained (by the sink & the mirror), and use a BS1 in the kitchen counter corner.

If you plan to move either one around, even rarely, buy the charging stand for the BS1, or the wall hanger for the Level.  Particularly the BS1 because that AC cord is a bear to plug and unplug.  The Level’s of course is easy.  If you plan to do anything but AirPlay and Bluetooth, well, get the Level because it has line-in and Mozart platform support.  Not playing from a DLNA server, which the BS1 still does, matters less to most folks.

Though they do sound different, since neither of them sounds dramatically better, don’t feel bad about letting looks dictate your choice!  Personally I prefer the BS1 conic solid, with mysteriously hidden drivers.  Versus the Level looks like an original 2001 BS1: a basic slab boombox.  Everybody raves about its wood front, but who wants to see the drivers thru the slots, and veneer on plastic is just so declassé, prefer the cloth to hide the works.  But my Final Answer: listen for yourself, no better advice than that.  Sorry to be so long-winded, but you asked…

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<grenade> Gee, what a soft pitch.  He even tried to steer the comments section away from the equipment per se:

“… and that is our review.  Question of the day: Tell us your story…  Yeah…  A9 is gonna be the A9…  If you want more information, links are always gonna be in the description.  Share your story —  your hi-fi story.  Let’s make
that what the comments are about.”

What?!?!?  Why?  Because the first comment would be, “Wait, that’s FOUR [expletive] THOUSAND Dollars for a single-point-stereo streaming speaker!” </grenade>

Disclosure, I admit I spent $2660 to get an A9 gen.4, mostly because it looks cool & handily replaces stereo-paired Apple HomePod’s that just can’t stay in sync and play nonstop given typical Wi-Fi disturbances vs. the AirPlay2 streaming design.  But $4000 just because “we can work from our porch now” seems lame for a YouTube channel that’s ostensibly about audio.  Though it does Put Paid To anybody who claims their BeoSound 1 or Level sound like much out-of-doors, more than a meter or 2 away.

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archie wrote:

the spliter is 100% mechanical , no power, so i think it will be ok.

Probably, but I would still look inside before using it: There are all kinds of crazy interlocking-pushbutton switch combinations, e.g. 6PDT w/ DPDT on the other half! Good you’re considering the oneremote.dk auto unit, much nicer than manual.

archie wrote:

someone know the bosscom ?

Search the “ARCHIVED FORUM — March 2012 to February 2022” for “bosscom”, you’ll see.

P.S. Still hoping you’ll post what your use case is for 2xBeoSound 9000. (Now that most folks treat playing a single CD as “an event”, like putting on a single record.) Heh, hacking the sled software so both units alternated shuffle play, that would be cool!! 🙂

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P.S.  A manual switch for such sleek equipment seems rather declassé.  Given the one you proposed, I guess an automatic Almando Multiplay Stereo is way too expensive? Perhaps using one of the 9000s as the Aux-input to the other one might work…  On the other hand, who really needs a 12-CD changer nowadays?  By all means tell everyone what kind of cool installation you intend to do!  (Or as they say on the automotive forums, “If you don’t post pix, it didn’t happen.”:-)

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Brand name & model # of the A/B switch?  And/or a photo of the interior?  If it contains a physical 8-Pole Double-Throw switch, it might work.  But if inside is a 100BaseT network multi-port router on a chip, with a single pin to that switch, controlling the output of all the signals, it definitely won’t work.

Personally, I would bet against it connecting all 8 pins directly to all 8 other.  But a customer photo inside the (more rugged-looking, $17 instead of $6) CablesOnline.com model # SB-034 physical switch looks OK:

In theory the box will subject the audio signal to no shielding by ground thru routing the wires, but for short runs and where only audio signals are inside a metal box, you should be OK.  The only thing you need to make sure is that your box, like the one shown above, actually switches all the wires and doesn’t take any shortcuts like connecting a bunch of them together, e.g. “because only 4 are used in 10BaseT”.  Yes, in theory you only need 4 wires for Powerlink mk.1, but do you know which are which?  Don’t chance it.  Also I don’t like the potential shorting of sliders inside a multi-pole switch, so I would advise powering down both BS9000s (and thus the BL8000s are also told to power down) before switching and powering up only one of the BS9000.  In the unlikely event you get “the usual hum troubles and noise burst each time the volume button is pressed”, switch to Mk.3 Powerlink cables from the box to your BS9000s.

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