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I have a Beosound 3000 connected by ML but it does not have the newer software chip to function well with a BS5 also connected. Have spent many hours trying to get both to work together well. The BS3000 would need a new chip with Option 5. Second, having N Music available both from NL and Mozart products and the BS 5, I thought might cause problems…..although as I type this it occurs to me I could rename N. Music on the BS5 as well as N. Radio.
Hi Razlaw, my thought was to introduce a second BLC: one for the BS3000 and one for the BS5, both A.Slave. That should allow to ‘filter’ the audio sources you want to have ‘mapped to NL’. And maybe solve your Line In / Mozart problem?
In my (non Mozart) set-up I do the same: I have one BLC feeding BS5 N.MUSIC into NL, and one feeding BS6500 CD into NL. Works well.
Just to be sure! Hope this helps, regards, JohanLocation: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHello Razlaw, I would say option 1? The only ‘no speakers connected’ setting is 0, but that is disabling IR remote control. Apart from Option 1, all settings are meant for a MasterLink setup in my view.
“The music system has five different Option settings:
Option 0. Used when your music system is connected to your video system and no speakers are connected directly to your music system.Option 1. Used when your music system is set up on its own or connected to a video system, when speakers are connected to your music system.
Option 2. Used when your music system is set up in one room and connected to a video system set up in another room.
Option 5. Used when your music system is set up in a link room which also comprises a Bang & Olufsen television.
Option 6. Used when your music system is set up in a link room without a Bang & Olufsen television.”
Regards, Johan
PS – why not ML connect it to a BLC and enjoy control from other devices?
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHey! I’ve got this converter for sale. Its in excellent condition. I am missing the power adapter unfortunately.
Hi Beoboyo55, FYI, these BLCs work with a normal 230V power cable, no adapter/transformer needed. Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHello matador – good hint! I checked my plumbing box and found a few strong plastic rings with a matching (outer) diameter. I cut off the rubber ‘sock’ from the adaptor and found metal – steel for the magnetics with the base obviously. I fixed the ring with some good double sided tape, and it works well:
I will now try and find TX5 1.5mm x 5mm screws as one of them has a very tired head.
Merci! Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHi Matador, that is a generous offer, I think that it is a highly complicated part to measure and draw!
For now I just some horribly cut transparent packaging tape to keep all parts together while I will get a virtual machine working and the configuration tool running.
Some better cut black tape (maybe plotted) could do the trick also. Let me try that first.
The plastic material of the ‘ring’ is quite soft, I guess for a silent placement. But it got torn anyway. The plastic close to the copper contact points feels much harder. It could be a 2-piece construction maybe? Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHi, I do have the original battery still – it says:
- basic cells by PANASONIC
- HHR-120AAB33 F1x2
- 2.4 Volt / 1200mAh
- BEO5 PA-PN0095.R002
there is a (Dutch) vendor that uses a photograph of the original battery, priced at 69 euros, here: https://www.idav.nl/beocom-5-6-batterij.html.
Hope this helps. J.
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberBack on topic 🙂 No one with a crashed Be05/6 with a good adaptor part?
Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHi Matador, no the bad one had a white sticker: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beo5-beo6-software-firmware-versions/#post-31292 but I get what you say – can we trust the appearance?
Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberGoogling the EAN code on the box resulted in this site: https://www.batteries4pro.com/en/multimedia/remote-control/3,19049-24v-12ah-nimh-battery-for-remote-control-bang-olufsen-beo5-4894128166993.html. They use a very similar image. Quite a bit cheaper. Worth a try? Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHello Matador, I did use this battery https://www.123accu.nl/Bang-Olufsen-8700091-HHR-120AAB33-F1x2-accu-2-4-V-1200-mAh-123accu-huismerk-i47359.html for some weeks now and it seems to work fine.
Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHello, that is correct. I bought two batteries in the end.
This one did not work.
It seemed to work at first, but would not charge. Sometimes it showed it was fully charged, but when the remote was taken off the charger, it told it was low.
This one (from here: https://www.123accu.nl/Bang-Olufsen-8700091-HHR-120AAB33-F1x2-accu-2-4-V-1200-mAh-123accu-huismerk-i47359.html) worked:
Its box:
Hope this helps! Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHi Steve, would it be an idea to explore how B&O has set up their support team, how they organized dealing with the different requests coming from their customers?
Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberThe cat enjoying Bryan Ferry behind the couch.
Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberCurious to see how much love these good old CX100s are going to get xschop!
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHi emabonacchi, I do use my BeoSystem 3 like that. The video inputs go into my LG OLED c9 (like an apple TV), the audio signal comes from the TV through its Toslink (optical), is then converted to S/PDIF digital coax, and fed into the BS3. Dolby Digital 5.1 surround sound is supported.
The idea is to use the modern 4K TV as the ‘video hub’, and the BS3 (with its MasterLink capability) as the ‘audio hub’.
Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHello Mark,
Great to see you value BeoWorld, with all the work Lee and Keith have done to allow many to bring and take useful information for a better Bang & Olufsen experience. And have a good laugh (or rant) in doing so :-). Looking forward to your input!
Lee, Keith, it has been a pleasure to ‘feel’ your dedication through the years. I hope to see you on the forum for many more years to come. Many thanks to you.
Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHi Carolpa,
To illustrate:
Name the CD source CD6500Carolpa in the BLC:
Make it available in the Core:
And seeing it on the BR1 (under MUSIC)
So Bluetooth would be the best! (as MM already said). Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHi Darkstar101, it seems your post was not meant for this thread? Regards, J.
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHi, I am assuming that then the BR1 will show the (in the app selected) NL sources (with the names given in the BLC settings) under the MUSIC button.
To your other question on the IR based communication in the diagram – the expectation is that ‘CD’ will start the Bs9000 and ‘[Link symbol]CD’ will start the BC2.
It is a pity that the Core does not have the settings page to link IR commands to NL sources as the BLC has!
Maybe something for the development team?
Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:GOLD MemberHi,
It is not installed yet – for now it exists only in the above chart :-). We will have to wait a little before testing this.
I do actually hope the Bluetooth connection between BR1 BT and Core is so strong that the above is not necessary. (Will investigate ‘bridging/meshing’ Bluetooth in the meantime).
B&O support actually hinted that what we want to achieve is complicated, and a B&O installer should be consulted.
We will have to be a bit patient I guess.
Thanks for thinking with us! Regards, Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons: -
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