[matador]

Guy wrote:

Of course this would only potentially reduce button presses for a Beo4, and only if you can set it in permanent LINK mode.

Yes that could be interesting to have the Beolab 3500 with it’s own remote in a same room that use another “general” Beoremote. Even if the Beo4 is in link mode you can still send traditional commands right?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Oh, and another thing, sorry: when I press the mute button it goes straight to RADIO, not the last source, which was TV. Any chance to change that?

Thanks.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Millemissen wrote:

why should a ‘pure’ audio command not work?

I think that too, but after reading old post from BW2, I must have confuse things.
The guy speaking of “any source” was RaMaBo and in fact, he wrote “any Video source like DTV, V.MEM, TV, etc…”

Now what I still dont understand is why I need to press AV before.

Millemissen wrote:

Using the A/V function/button before you hit a video button however, means that you adress an audio source.

Ok I get that, I use this command on a BV6 to start just the sound without the picture.
But why don’t I hear the sound when pressing TV only? Shouldn’t it bring picture (on no screen) AND sound?

Millemissen wrote:

That is a sophisticated setup – but probably a bit over the top of what Matador has aimed at.

Indeed!

PS: No MCL Master. A BC2300?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Guy wrote:

Congratulations on the 1611 purchase – a very useful bit of kit!

Thank you Guy,

I know you’re quite a fan of all those mysterious (or not so) black boxes, but honestly, a Beolink converter is not the piece of B&O I was expecting to be congratulated for!     🙂

It’s not the LINK key that I must depress, it’s the AV. On the Beolink 5000, where there is a LINK key, I’ve tried LINK+TV. Didnt work, must be A/V+TV.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

beojeff wrote:

There could be a different solution for you.

Interesting. I too would like to hear how it turns. But for now, its a little bit over… me.
I’m not an NL or ever ML guy and right now I just want to go for the cheaper: a converter, the Lab 3500 and an airport base.

But Id like to know more about the ML power box: would it work as an audiometer by itself or does it need the NL/ML converter ?

Thanks

Location: Paris France

[matador]

You’re right, after reading the manual again it looks like they are talking about the main systems.

I powered the converter last as you already mentioned it in various topics.

So for you, now way of triggering it with any key other than AV+TV, right?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi KolfMaker,

Thats the one I would like, Yes.
I’ve still not seen one for sale around but I was told they’re quite expensive.
There is a wall stand for sale in local ads and it’s around 60€, that is more that I paid for the two 3500.

That’s when finding bargain B&O stuff dont helps you !    🙂

BTW, stil no luck in fixing the powerlink input, but if the 3500 from your friend is an MCL model, you should try the 5V trick!

Regards.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

The Midwich Cuckoos aka Invasion of the Beosnatchers…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Merci d’être revenu nous donner la solution. Profitez bien de votre nouveau Beoviseur !

Location: Paris France

[matador]

I’ll add all the files to the first post.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Pfffewwww…

Thank you Guy and guys!

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Yes, that’s the one I was talking about. Did’nt want to post it without permission but now it’s there that’s the one.

Search on Beoworld often return this limitation, but don’t say what happen if its not SW 3.1.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

I’d like to chime in even if my point of view may not be useful at a all.

I entered the world of vinyl records just because Beograms were beautiful.
Not because records sounds better or whatever else.

Of course quickly came the question of “what if my cartridge is just not good?”
And even if sometimes, on certains records, I found the sound pleasant, good, nice… I’ll always going to have that little voice in my head: “maybe your cartridge is just not good”.

Reading around people who are blown away with cartridges that cost a lot or using words you would never use to describe music didn’t help.

Also reading about all that can turn wrong in a cartridge (stone, cantilever, suspension, coil…) didn’t help either.

Then I had the opportunity to have MMC4 rebuilt by a reputable man, who’s work can’t be questioned. I was exited to listen to those “like new” cartridges, with new diamond and new rubber. I put them on, put a record and what I heard was… Music.
The same that with my old SP10, SP14, SP12 and not better than my recent old MMC20S.

Just music, good enough, I mean I can hear the difference with a CD or a digital file but music with the added pleasure of seing it spinning and holding the sleeve and so on.

But honestly, in the different cartridge families I could listen to, their condition and their quality level, I never heard any major difference.

I’m not saying they do not exist and that a trained or used ear can make a substantial difference between them. But I may be fuzzy, I want just to say that sometimes its more about hype than music. And forums don’t help: they are so much things that can change the music between the tip of the diamond and the sound in your head: deck condition, preamplifier, amplifier, speakers, power cords (this one is for you M), room acoustics…
I let it go. As long as I can listen to music and have a spare cartridge just in case, it’s good for me. I’d like to have an MMC20EN for my deck, yes, but it’s only because it is silver.
And maybe if it happens, I could wake up in a different world that will make me consider this whole post as stupid, maybe… But, I doubt.

With all due respect to those who ear a difference.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Ok, I surrender and have a 1611 converter on the road . But…

I vaguely remember and a drawing from our old funky pal Peter Pan seems to confirm that the box MUST be SW 3.1. Mine (my future) is SW 1.3.

What should I expect from this?

Thank you!

Location: Paris France

[matador]

matador wrote:
Another lead here Beolab 3500 Standalone

So, I contacted that member Curious-dreamer and he was very kind to give all the details of its setup and answer my questions, Thank you Curious Dreamer!

So, That’s indeed a Beolab 3500 and it is used as a standalone like an usual Beolab speaker.
The 3500 is triggered by an external 5v signal coming thru the Din plug. I asked him if that was enough or if another trick was needed. The special Cable was enough and he don’t even have a remote so no cumbersome key sequence here.

I did a cable similar to is: L+R as usual and 5v on pin 1 grounded to pin 7.
And… It did not work! The audio part is good, tested in PL mode, and the power part do work and trigger correctly a Beolink Passive.

This do work on its Beolab 3500 but not on mine.
Its is a type 1601 with serial 116xxx and S.W 1.1
Mine is a type 1601 with serial 194xxx and S.W 3.1

Maybe the problem lies here in the S.W version or maybe I should use pin 4 instead of pin 1 to trigger the speaker? But it’s well known and repeated again and again that the 3500 can’t be used as an usual Beolab. And if it was pin 4, any Powerlink cable should have triggered the speaker right ?

The quest continues…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

matador wrote:

Another lead here Beolab 3500 Standalone

So, I contacted that member Curious-dreamer and he was very kind to give all the details of its setup and answer my questions, Thank you Curious Dreamer!

So, That’s indeed a Beolab 3500 and it is used as a standalone like an usual Beolab speaker.
The 3500 is triggered by an external 5v signal coming thru the Din plug. I asked him if that was enough or if another trick was needed. The special Cable was enough and he don’t even have a remote so no cumbersome key sequence here.

I did a cable similar to is: L+R as usual and 5v on pin 1 grounded to pin 7.
And… It did not work! The audio part is good, tested in PL mode, and the power part do work and trigger correctly a Beolink Passive.

This do work on its Beolab 3500 but not on mine.
Its is a type 1601 with serial 116xxx and S.W 1.1
Mine is a type 1601 with serial 194xxx and S.W 3.1

Maybe the problem lies here in the S.W version or maybe I should use pin 4 instead of pin 1 to trigger the speaker? But it’s well known and repeated again and again that the 3500 can’t be used as an usual Beolab. And if it was pin 4, any Powerlink cable should have triggered the speaker right ?

The quest continues…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Steve at Sounds Heavenly wrote:

that looks like a Nikon…

I’m afraid it is even worse…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Steve, you know I respect you,

But are you REALLY shooting an interview with the Beolab 90 designer with only 24% of battery left? Not good!           🙂

Happy new year’s eve to you and all Beoworld members.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Carefully follow the procedure described by Ramabo and it will work. Remember to activate “again” the IR reception with the appropriate (I don’t remember right now) procedure.

Yes the Century is a beautiful piece, I always wanted to have a working one.
If you’re an Architect I would advise you to do a search on the old forum about fret reclothe: with this and and any fancy pantyhose shop, you can do miracles in terms of integration! The old forum ‘flash your B&O’ thread is full of gorgeous pictures of Centurys, in dark red, dark green, or any other duck blue like color that will just make you want to refurbish you interior.

Happy new year to you too and to all Beoworld members

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Ce sont deux choses  différentes et indépendante : d’une part l’affectation des touches et d’autre part la liste PUC.

Pour l’affecation des touches vous avez des entrées physiques sur le téléviseur AV1, AV2, etc et des touches sur la télécomande : DTV, SAT, V.MEM… Qui correspondent plus ou moins aux appelations B&O. Mais en réalité vous branchez ce que vous voulez où vous voulez et affectez la touche qui vous arrange. Par exemple, vous utilisez principalement decodeur TNT alors vous le branchez là où vous voulez, par exemple AV3, et vous affectez à l’entrée AV3 la touche DTV parce qu’elle se trouve en plein milieu de la telecommande donc facilement accessible… Pour la touche V.tape, vous afectez l’entrée AV1 si vous voulez mais au lieu de brancher un magnétoscope (V.tape, c’est l’appellation pour les magnetoscope chez B&O…) vous branchez une Apple TV par exemple : vous ne faites que decider quelle touche active quelle entrée de la TV, indépandament de ce qu’il y a réellement branché.

Ensuite la liste… C’est une liste de code PUC : c’est un système qui permet d’utiliser la telecommande B&O pour contrôler un appareil tiers, via un petit transmetteur Infra rouge. Donc déjà si vous n’avez pas le petit bidule qui permet d’emmettre les signaux IR, ça ne vous sert à rien. Si vous l’avez, il faut selectionner la marque et le modèle de votre decodeur TNT par exemple. Alors, une touche de la telecommande ouvre un menu speciale ou vous accedez aux fonctions primaire de l’appareil et cela vous permet, pour un usage courant de ne pas avoir sur la table, la telecommande en plastique moche à coté de votre superbe Beo4.

Mais la BV7 est une tele relativement ancienne et les decodeur ont évolué, donc il y a peu de chance que votre decodeur se trouve dans la liste. Seule possibilité, trouver une reference qui utilise des codes similaires mais pour cela il faut en effet s’eplucher toute la liste et essayer les codes un par un.

Bon courage.

Location: Paris France

[Author]

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