[matador]

matador wrote:

Another lead here Beolab 3500 Standalone

So, I contacted that member Curious-dreamer and he was very kind to give all the details of its setup and answer my questions, Thank you Curious Dreamer!

So, That’s indeed a Beolab 3500 and it is used as a standalone like an usual Beolab speaker.
The 3500 is triggered by an external 5v signal coming thru the Din plug. I asked him if that was enough or if another trick was needed. The special Cable was enough and he don’t even have a remote so no cumbersome key sequence here.

I did a cable similar to is: L+R as usual and 5v on pin 1 grounded to pin 7.
And… It did not work! The audio part is good, tested in PL mode, and the power part do work and trigger correctly a Beolink Passive.

This do work on its Beolab 3500 but not on mine.
Its is a type 1601 with serial 116xxx and S.W 1.1
Mine is a type 1601 with serial 194xxx and S.W 3.1

Maybe the problem lies here in the S.W version or maybe I should use pin 4 instead of pin 1 to trigger the speaker? But it’s well known and repeated again and again that the 3500 can’t be used as an usual Beolab. And if it was pin 4, any Powerlink cable should have triggered the speaker right ?

The quest continues…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Steve at Sounds Heavenly wrote:

that looks like a Nikon…

I’m afraid it is even worse…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Steve, you know I respect you,

But are you REALLY shooting an interview with the Beolab 90 designer with only 24% of battery left? Not good!           🙂

Happy new year’s eve to you and all Beoworld members.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Carefully follow the procedure described by Ramabo and it will work. Remember to activate “again” the IR reception with the appropriate (I don’t remember right now) procedure.

Yes the Century is a beautiful piece, I always wanted to have a working one.
If you’re an Architect I would advise you to do a search on the old forum about fret reclothe: with this and and any fancy pantyhose shop, you can do miracles in terms of integration! The old forum ‘flash your B&O’ thread is full of gorgeous pictures of Centurys, in dark red, dark green, or any other duck blue like color that will just make you want to refurbish you interior.

Happy new year to you too and to all Beoworld members

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Ce sont deux choses  différentes et indépendante : d’une part l’affectation des touches et d’autre part la liste PUC.

Pour l’affecation des touches vous avez des entrées physiques sur le téléviseur AV1, AV2, etc et des touches sur la télécomande : DTV, SAT, V.MEM… Qui correspondent plus ou moins aux appelations B&O. Mais en réalité vous branchez ce que vous voulez où vous voulez et affectez la touche qui vous arrange. Par exemple, vous utilisez principalement decodeur TNT alors vous le branchez là où vous voulez, par exemple AV3, et vous affectez à l’entrée AV3 la touche DTV parce qu’elle se trouve en plein milieu de la telecommande donc facilement accessible… Pour la touche V.tape, vous afectez l’entrée AV1 si vous voulez mais au lieu de brancher un magnétoscope (V.tape, c’est l’appellation pour les magnetoscope chez B&O…) vous branchez une Apple TV par exemple : vous ne faites que decider quelle touche active quelle entrée de la TV, indépandament de ce qu’il y a réellement branché.

Ensuite la liste… C’est une liste de code PUC : c’est un système qui permet d’utiliser la telecommande B&O pour contrôler un appareil tiers, via un petit transmetteur Infra rouge. Donc déjà si vous n’avez pas le petit bidule qui permet d’emmettre les signaux IR, ça ne vous sert à rien. Si vous l’avez, il faut selectionner la marque et le modèle de votre decodeur TNT par exemple. Alors, une touche de la telecommande ouvre un menu speciale ou vous accedez aux fonctions primaire de l’appareil et cela vous permet, pour un usage courant de ne pas avoir sur la table, la telecommande en plastique moche à coté de votre superbe Beo4.

Mais la BV7 est une tele relativement ancienne et les decodeur ont évolué, donc il y a peu de chance que votre decodeur se trouve dans la liste. Seule possibilité, trouver une reference qui utilise des codes similaires mais pour cela il faut en effet s’eplucher toute la liste et essayer les codes un par un.

Bon courage.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Bonjou Lyosha,

CE que je comprends de votre message, c’est que vous n’arrivez pas à faire correspondre les touches de la telecommande (DTV, SAT, V.MEM…) avec les sources physiquement raccordées au téléviseur AV1, AV2, … C’est vrai que chez B&O c’est une gymnastique un peu particulière pour tout ajuster. Je n’ai pas de Beovision 7 mais a priori dans les menus vous devriez trouver la liste de toutes les entrée (AVx) avec en face la selection de la source, c’est à dire la touche de la telecommande qui va selectionner cette entrée.

Pour vous aider vous trouverez le manuel d’utilisation ici.

Bien tentendu si vous avez des élements à la suite les uns des autres comme votre box à travcers le décodeur TNT, vous ne pourrez selectionner que le dernier element de la chaine (le decodeur TNT) à moins que celui-ci ne commute automatiquement sur le signal de la box s’il s’en present un.

Le plus simple serait de trouver une personne qui est à l’aise avec ce genre d’appareil pour qu’il puisse experimenter avec le materiel.

Bonnes fetes.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Kay1Kar wrote:

I guess the first step is to open the device up and see which capacitor I need to order.

The danish song is mandatory, it won’t work without.

The capacitors are mentioned by Ramabo earlier in this thread:

RaMaBo wrote:

[…] ordinary electrolyctic capacitors ( 22µF / 6.3Volt ).

Read his post for the full procedure.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Kay1Kar,

I’ve been there before: dont bother with door slapping or whatever…
Follow the Ramabo Advice, change the capacitors.

The IR board is located more or less at the rail level, on the right side.
You’ll have to:
– take off the grills.
– take off the front CD and cassette fascia. Take care of the cd clamper.
– take off the screws holding the main amp PCB (heavy) on the right side, just enough to lift the IR board.
– Then disconnect the cable, almost in the blind.
– Take out the board, shoot it, note polarity of the two capacitors.
– Make a search on this forum for guidance (because some details have been already discussed here).
– Replace the capacitors.
– Sing a traditionnel danish song out loud (a traditional dance may help too).
– build back the unit (only after the previous instructions).

90% sure the unit will come back to IR life (option setting etc…)
2 hours work, 60% of the the time being taking the grills out if you never did it before.

Ramabo told me to do that long ago and I didn’t want to listen to him because e you know: capacitors etc etc…
But I eventually did and it worked.

Dont bother, do it.

Godspeed.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Are you sure the keyboard is correctly installed? Sometimesput it can look like ok but it is only hold by the magnets and not correctly put.

If correctly installed, maybe you could try to clean the contacts on both sides, or see if any key is stuck?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Xavier and thank you for your answer,

Thats exactly what I wanted to know and now I know!

Then it would not work for me because that’s exactly what I want to avoid: a system you have to set up each time your turn it off (that is the contrary of standalone for me).

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Yes… I’ve often told it but B&O market here is crazy: people often don’t even know what they sell but put hight prices just because some dark mysterious black box is labelled B&O ar sometimes because you have interest in it…

To be fair sometimes it’s the other way around and I’ve myself have had the chance of incredible bargains sometimes. But all in all it doesn’t seem to be a market as even or realistic as it seem to be in UK or the northern countries.

I’m not in a hurry, I’ll wait.

Ah, and about the PC2, I suspected that answer, so don’t bother spending time on experience but thank you anyway.

Enjoy your evening…

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thanks MM.

I know that one but i’d like to understand how these speaker works.

But while we’re at this, you remind me a question I forgot to ask:
Will ant 1611 works? I think I remember vaguely they were serial number or SW version limitation, no?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Guy,

I’ve read the link (I now have the 3500 and want it standalone more than ever!) and your post carefully. I still wonder if you think or know if the PC2 could act as an audiomaster for the beolab 3500 as it, disconnected from any computer and just using the line in, preferably without IR eye. Even if it would need to be connected to a computer for setup it deosnt matter, what I would like to know is if after that it could work by itself to drive the 3500.

The reason is that 1611 converter are not a lot around and even less in my prices but PC2 comes from time to time for cheap.

Thanks in advance and merry Christmas.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi KolfMAKER,

Did you find anything new ? I’ve found two Beolab 3500 and like to investigate a way of making them really standalone.

Let’s play with those things and give them a new life!

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Glitch wrote:

Could you put a piece of black electrical tape on the lip?

It would be difficult I think because the lip is a tight fit under the main plate and down to these level, electrical tape is quite thick.

What I did is to cut a square rubber belt and tuck it in the groove: absolutely reversible, no arm to any part, quickly removable in case of an unexpected hardcore beo-lover visit,  and to my eyes, better looking.

In fact, possibly better looking for B&O marketing people too, as they did emphasis (with photoshop) those black separation in every picture of the Beogram 4000c.

Thank you to everyone who gives is view.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi and welcome to Beoworld,

See here, have a drink and take a deep breath, Its just two hard hours.   😀

Alternatively, you can also search in this or better, in the old forum. They’re a lot of thread about laser replacement and the usual issues that may arise (whistling laser, incompatible ones even if the reference is good…)

It’s a common issue with plenty of solutions.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Dillen wrote:

So is the light at the speed dial. Looks all LED’ish.

Picture effect: light are usual lamps and shines orangish in real.

Dillen wrote:

Can’t your panels align properly?

They are as much as they can in the three dimensions. The shining line is from the “lip” from the upper right plate that goes under the main table.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

AdamS wrote:

I think the first picture looks better, too, but it’s irrelevant as the cartridge is the wrong colour in both pictures! :o)

Yeah, I know that and it’s hurting my eyes, but we have the cartridge we can…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

No solution but same problem here…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Lemme,

Once the STL generated I didnt kept the original 3D file (which was Cinema 4D BTW).
But I think you can “de-construct” the .STL file, I’ve checked it with CAD Assistant and all the parts are visible and do not look like merged.

Actually, adjusting the witness of the slots is the worst and more complicated part of the whole design, at least with the tools I had at hand. So the slots were roughly designed flat with… the dashed line tool in a vector design software (!), adjusted to be centered and then extruded in 3D. I remember that adding a slot, adjusting the size of it or moving them one side or another made instantaneously a mess.

My advice if I may: use your 5mm wood fret, mark where the touch the clamps and correct the witness with a file just on the rear part of the lamella. I had to do this for two or three sticks that were beyond tolerance (wood is sold for 4mm +/- 2%).

 

Location: Paris France

[Author]

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