[Madskp]

benjarys wrote:

Thanks for the tip, but I don’t see anything there. I would think it’s not the screen but the video engine that’s the problem? Is that possible?

I have only had the remote control issue on my V1, so no experience with video engine/panel problems.

benjarys wrote:

I hope I can do something when I receive the original remote

I am not sure that would make much difference since it should react to any BEO4 and or Beolink 1000 remote.

One thing you could try though with one of your BEO4’s i to set the options settings for the TV  to 1  (if it is in option 0 it will no respond to IR signals)  by pressing and holding the LIST and • buttons, then repeatedly pressing LIST until “OPTION?” appears on the display, pressing GO, and finally scrolling with LIST to select V.OPT and pressing 1 to confirm.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

When it is turned on try to use a flashlight close to the screen to see if anything is showing on the screen. If so it could be a backlight issue.

To be sure there is something to see on the screen you can adjust the volume with the app. The current volume level should show up in the middle in top of the screen

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I’ll persist a bit longer, but to be honest I don’t like working on it!  Those pull-out ribbon cables are very tricky, and the very sticky outer case leaves black marks all over your hands (and workbench) when handling it.

I had the same feeling when I was working on one of these.

Guy wrote:

I am adamant that I won’t clean it until it shows signs of life!

Fully understandable, it’s a lot of work if it does not end up working

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You might wan’t to take a look at this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beoplay-v1-not-turning-on/ where I did end up repairing one with a similar issue. It seems like a leeaking super capacitor can make some issues in the circitry for the IR receiver. However I ended up scratching the board by removing the super capacitor so had to go through some hardcore micro soldering, but if you are lucky the issue might be solvable by cleaning the affected area and replace the super capacitor.

When you say you do not see an image does that mean that it is not even showing the little source text in the top of the screen when it is turned on by the app? Or are you maybe able tho change source to see if something else is showing af picture. If nothing is showing your V1 might also have other issues.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

But first I had to have a quick look at my grandson’s Lightsabre – no prizes for guessing what was wrong with it …

I have repaired that same fault on several pieces of toys 🙂 Not great production quality

Guy wrote:

I have also had a good look at the faulty BeoSound 4.  Basically it’s stuck at stand-by and will not respond to remote (other than power button which closes the door, which works fine).  On the keyboard the only button that makes anything happen is the LOAD, which causes the door to open further for CD loading.  The stand-by red light shows permanently, and responds by flashing if I change the option setting.   I have tried entering the Service Menu using both keyboard and remote – neither work.  I do have the PIN but am unable to enter the PIN menu.  I have tried controlling it by connecting to my BV10-32 with an ML cable – no joy there.
Searching the old forums came up with this post (amongst others) from Peter:  https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/39215/325907.aspx#325907
So I think that is probably the problem – a SW problem related to the PIN system.  Nevertheless I stripped it down and checked all the connectors etc – the ribbon cables are mostly the push-in type (no locking mechanism) which I found a bit strange – some were quite difficult to re-insert.  The backup battery is fine (3.2V) but I also tried shorting it out briefly in the hope that this would kick the processor back into life – this didn’t work!   So unless anyone has any further suggestions I think I will give up!
Just for interest here’s a photo of the insides – the ‘suspect’ PCB6 is at the bottom and the backup battery is behind the two ribbon cables that emerge from it.

Tough luck. These Beosound 4’s does not seem to be as easy to work on as the BC2300/2500/BS Ouverture/BS 3×00 system

Looking in the servicemanual for the BS4 something about modules being registered to the BS4 when powered on for more than 12 hours or the Pin code being activated/deactivated which sounds like a lock in between the main PCB and the other components which could probably cause trouble if one module is malfunctioning.

I also noticed in the servicemanual that there are some pictures showing different points where certain voltages should be available. If you wan’t to dig further one option could be trying top measure if these voltages are present.

Other than that trying to switch modules with some from a donor could be an option, knowing that it could have the same issues.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello and welcome to Beoworld

You can use a Beolink Converter type 1611 as a source. This can give you 2 inputs that are selectable in the room by using either a audio (eg. CD, Radio, A.mem etc.) or VIDEO (eg. TV, DVD, V.MEM etc.) command from a Beolink 1000 or BEO4 remote. Furthermore the AUDIO source can be selected directly on the IR eye’s by pressing play, and turned of again by pressing the same button.

The diagram in this post https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/22/#post-42623 shows how to wire it (with a Beolab 3500 as link room, but the principle is the same). The easy rout for the cable to the audio aux conenctor is a 5 Pin din to 4 RCA connectors. Two of the RCA will be for left and right the AUDIO command, and the other two for left and right for the VIDEO command.

Hope this solution is helpfull

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

TK wrote:

I have a working 4000 – does it share the same Aux Dual-DL pin-outs as the 2300? If so, I could test and see how it behaves with this setup.

The 4000 is the same as an Ouverture in Europe, so it has Masterlink, and therefore not DL86. The AUX connector does have DL80 that responds to both TAPE2 and PHONO commands like the BC2300

TK wrote:

What I’m not entirely sure of is the logic and safety of having two sources share a single audio channel without some form of protection circuitry, so I’ll leave that to others.

That part can probaly be reverse engienered from how that part of the circitry is made in a Beomaster/Beocenter with separete TAPE2 and PHONO connections, but will need some interfacing with the BB part to switch between the audiosignals for the two sources

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Oh an btw if it was from ML I would suspect that a Beolink Converter type 1611/1612 could be used just as well since that tranlates between ML and DL86

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

TK wrote:

: with respect to the BC2300, I think that it speaks ML, and not MCL2, which would mean for the moment that there would be a bit more hardware to acquire in the form of an ML/MCL converter just to get the communications working (I’ll get to ML support at some point in the future, but probably it will be a while)

Actually the BC2300 does not have ML but instead both DL80 and DL86 in the same AUX connector on pin 7 and pin 6 respectivly

But as mentioned for BS Ouverture and BC9300 I guess that the DL80 dataline responds to both the TAPE2 and the PHONO command

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

pl212 wrote:

One particular use case I’m curious about would be a “smart” interposer device, for units such as the BeoCenter 2300 with only one AUX port. In theory this could intercept a start signal from either a BeoGram or a BeoTooth, and allow just that device to switch the 2300 on to that source. (A kind of automated version of the old four-port AUX Expander.)

I was wondering of something of the same kind for BS Ouverture and BC9300 in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-ouverture-2-external-sources-y-cable/ as they can detect/send both PHONO and TAPE2 commands for the same AUX connection. The conclusion in that topic was that some switching circiut between the 2 audio lines might be needed depending on which source is detected, so that would have to be part of such solution.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

If I understand correctly your BL3500 will connect directly to a BLC thus being the only ML  unit in that ML chain?

if that is correct then as Guy also point out you will need something to supply the correct voltages in that ML chain.this can either be

– A ML audio system

– A ML TV

– A ML powerbox

– or a Beolink Converter 1611

In my opinion the last one will be the cheapest and most simple solution.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello

I had something similar going on with my BS Ouverture over in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-ouverture-cd-not-working/#post-50361 I started with cleaning the laser, and later replaced it which did change some of the behavioiur, but could still not get it to play. I then recapped the board on the back of the CD mechanism which helped getting it to play:  https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-ouverture-cd-not-working/#post-50369

However it had and still have the issue that I most times has to press CD twice to get it to play, but other than that no issues.

Maybe you can find something usefull in that thread.

jacope wrote:

Disc motor does not start: If focus is searched and the laser switches on, and yet the disc motor does not rotate, the error is probably in the transport mechanism itself. For
further service tips, see section 5 (section 7 as regards Beocenter/
Beosystem 2500-2300).

This states to reference section 5 (or 7), but transport issues are not specifically mentioned here.

I have also noticed the lack of these chapters for the newer type of CD mechanism in the servicemanuals available on Beoworld. Would be nice if someone had a fully updated version of this service manual. Maybe @Multicare has something that is not uploaded to the product section yet?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Here it is – basically isolates the power and data connections:

Picture extracted from here (half way down page):  https://beoworld.org/wiring-diagrams/

And it comes from the MCL System manual 89-90

I notice that it just says below 32 degrees which must be in fahrenheit for it to make sense as that equals 0 degrees celsius.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

lausvi wrote:

Related to the accessorie, I was happy to find this desktop mount for the ‘oblong’ transceiver (in this case a white one) some years ago. I think it looks quite nice sitting on an angle.

Yes thats a nice assecory. I also have one of these in my collection

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

lausvi wrote:

That’s got to be a 3rd-party electrical box, B&O probably made only the foam inserts themselves

I agree looks like a very generic box

lausvi wrote:

Not very practical either to be disconnecting the outdoor units if the temperature falls below 0° (as the instructions say!).

No, but I think there is a circuit description of how to make a switch for that in some of the MCL documentation, so B&O did something to make this solution plausible.

lausvi wrote:

I like how they call the older rectangular MCL transceiver the “oblong” one 😀

I did not notice that myself, but I can see what you mean. Not the word I would choose for it, but the translater might have had a limited vocabulary.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Here is another item I will give away for the price of postage

2 pcs. AV9000 Audiokit type 1610

I have no way to test them, so for trial and error for a AV9000 owner

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You can see the pinout for the 7 pin DIN here https://beoworld.org/wiring-diagrams/

Its the one called datalink

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I’ve tried every other conceivable option setting but none of it works – I either get nothing, or limited functionality.  It seems so strange the B&O would build IR mapping into the Beolink Converter, but not allow for the full setup to work via only that one IR Eye?

I think the reason for that is that the Beolink Coverter (besides being a converter between NL and ML ) works more like a link room with it’s own speakers. So when you activate a source from it it activates that source directly through the link cables (in your case the Aux input on the BS4) and has no need to activate the BS3 for this function to work, and also do not need to activate the BS3 speakers.

Your option settings on the products  mostly has to do with what type of IR commands your product accept (no IR/audio/video/audio and video/link+), and does not define how it reacts to commands from a link room.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I tried having both the BLC and the BS3 in Opt.1, but that way the BS3 only responds to Video sources, not Audio sources.  My speakers need to be connected to the BS3 because I have a full set of surround speakers (front, surround, centre, sub).

What exactly do you mean by ‘Powerlink Switch’?

Both Almando and Onermote has these. They have two powerlink inputs and one output for the speakers. One of the connected inputs is always connected to the speakers, but when the other product is turned on it will switch to that product instead.

In your case it could be inserted between the front speakers and the TV/Music system

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I have however experienced another issue.  Because both my BS3 and the NL/ML Converter have IR eyes connected, both are responding to remote commands, so for example if I hit 1, I get 11.  I tried setting the BS3 to Opt.0, but if it’s in Opt.0, it does not come out of standby at all when I select a source.  If I set it to Opt.1, it only responds to video sources, not audio sources (My Beosound 4 is set to Opt.0, and I’m sure that’s the only right option to use there, as my speakers are connected to the BS3). This feels like something there should be a solution to, but I haven’t found it yet!

One possibility could be to connect the speakers via a Powerlink switch and set both the BLC and the TV to option 1.  This way the speakers can be shared between the TV and the music system and none of them react to commands form the other.

Location: Denmark

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