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Thanks for the input. Will try to wire up a cable, and great Idea with and adapter, Have actually also thought of making something for easy unplugging of the IR eye on the MCL2AV boxes, so might as well make a solution that works for more units.
Madskp wrote: Can the BL3500 work on the AUX conenctor on other Audimasters? Or the MCL2AV? I have made a test with the MCL2AV that I have, although it’s unstable at the moment, so the result will have to be verified. But using the same cable that I used for the BM5500 I tried to connect the BL3500 directly to the MCL2AV’s AUC connector, and my Beocord 3500 to the tape connector of the MCL2AV. No IR eye or speakers connected to the MCL2AV. I was then able to start the Beocord 3500 through the BL3500 and play/stop/FF/RW/step forward and backward, so datalink commands was passed through from AAL to AL signals. However I got no sound through. Tried again with the BM5500 just to check that my cables were ok and it still worked. I have to get my MCL2AV going stable again or get another one, but I think the control signal part is interesting.
So after the repair of my MCL2AV Type 2020 and the addition of and type 2026 it is time to revisit this test.
Again with the type 2020 no sound, but I could control the Beocord 3500.
However trying the same setup with the type 2026 gave me sound, control. Also added data in form of >> and << on the BL3500 display when using FFW and RW on the Beocord. Might be due to the newer software version on the 2026. Will also check if this is the case when used with the 1611 converter and the BL3500.
Volume control seems a little unstable, but I think I have narrowed it down to the units not responding if I press the volume button to fast repeadetly , thus skipping the actual volume steps., but will have to look more in to this.
I just found a Type number 2076 on UK eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255750627132 From reading the instruction page in the advert, it seems to have been originally packaged with a mains adaptor and a wall unit/transceiver that also served as a charging unit for a BL7000. I vaguely remember reading about this rare item in the old forum.
Yes it seems to be for the LCS 7000 that could also act as a wall charger for the Beolink 7000
manuals here https://www.beoworld.org/manuals_view.asp?pid=975
But I think that just confirms that the MCL2AV got different type numbers depending on what kind of kit it was used for.
Also had a look insidd the IR eye. Some signs of corrosion, but most of it could be scrubed of with a brush and some IPA.
the item numbe on this one is 1202625 so it seems to corrospond with the type number on the MCL2AV. Also the serial number is the same.No problem, just post again if you need more info
Perhaps like mine but packaged with EU power lead.
Oh yes things like that could also be the reason for different numbering.
I did mistakenly call mine a 2023 earlier in the thread, but I just re-checked the photo and it’s actually a 2032
Ok that also makes more sense as the type number 2023 is used for the power supply for the MCL2AV type 2020 in some of the B&O documentation.
I wonder if the difference between type 2026 and 2032 could just if the were part of and extra active speaker kit or a extra TV kit, and maybe being preprogrammed for the correct options in theses setups
Yours appears to have a screw missing at the back of the CD socket – this probably makes the socket more secure when pulling leads out
Yes, I’ll have to see if I can find some replacements as an other one of the screws is also not in a very well condition.
A little update to this thread. I just bought an extra MCL2AV, and it’s type 2026 SW 2.3. It costed less than 20 Euros including shipment, so I couldn’t resist, and then I also have a backup if the other on fails again.
@Guy: You have called one of yours type 2023 with SW 2.3 also. I wonder if its actually the same box just for different markets?
Let me know if you come up with any scenario to test out with this unit.
Ok, so it said DVT, so I ended up not buying it. But thanks again for the info, could be usefull if I find another one at a good price.
Hello again
My answer is assuming you do not have an other audiomaster product connected to the Masterlink of the Beosystem 3
Thanks a lot of the info and yes, I ideally would like to control the beogram with my remote. If I were to source a BeoSound Ouverture would it needed to visible to the remote or would that be handled by normal BeoSystem IR interaction? I would really like to go for a minimalistic look, basically just the BeoGram visible. Today everything is hidden away in my cellar and so only cables are run for IR and speakers.
The advantage of using datalink and masterlink is that the control signals are transmitted in the cables, and therefore you don’t need the IR eye on the BS overture to be visible, and don’t need separate IR cables. You do however need to setup the Beossytem 3 to accept both video and audio commands by putting in in option 2. With a BEO4 press: Standby + list at the same time. the press list unitil option? is shown in the display, and press go. It will now show V.opt, the press go and 2. The Beosystem 3 should now be in option 2 and accept both audio and video IR commands.
Depending on how, or if you want to use the Overture in the room it is going to be placed it could be set at different options. Option 0 it will not react to IR commands. Option 1 it will only react to audio commands, and option 2 it will react to both audio and video commands, and thereby let you have sources from the Beosystem 3 played through speakers connected to the overture if you want to do that.
BS3 -> ML -> BeoSound Ouverture -> DL -> Beogram X?
That is the correct setup. You might need a 7 Pin datalink extender cable if you place the Beogram and Overture in different rooms.
I am not looking for the most exclusive, rare, etc – just a very nice sounding Beogram. They are all pleasing to the eye, so I am less concerned about the visual differences between the Beograms.
As the Overture doesn’t have an integrated RIAA amplifier, the easyest solution would be to get af Beogram with integrated RIAA. Datalink compatible Beograms with integrated RIAA is Beogram 3500/4500/6500/7000. For difference in quality on the Beograms others might chime in. Of course you could use another Beogram without RIAA, but the you will also need and external RIAA amplifier with transfer of datalink signals.
Thanks thats a great tip.
BTW my own says FM on the label, but I think that my father might have got it without at a discount when he bought it at the B&O employe sale
The above is asuming that you want to control the Beogram with the remote for the Beosystem 3. If you dont need remote control of the Beogram you could connect it to any sound input on the Beosystem 3 via an adapter cable
Hello.
As I see it you have these options:
- connect it via a Beomaster 6500/7000/3500/4500 and datalink to a 1611 Beolink converter, and Masterlink to the Beosystem 3
- Connect it via a Beosound overture and Masterlink to Beosystem 3
- Connect it via a MCL2AV and datalink to a 1611 Beolink converter, and Masterlink to the Beosystem 3. This wil require use of the CD command for controlling the Beogram. More info in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/12/#post-15630 and also if you want to go this way just ask.
Fantastic. Thank you both, that’s much the easiest thing then. And if I’m sourcing plugs, is the 8-pin DIN plug physically the same as a Powerlink plug?
Just an extra note. Pin 8 is not used in the plug, so a 7 Pin plug can also be used if that is easier to source
Am I right in thinking that I can use a single cable going all the way from the two 3-pin speaker outputs on the BC9500 to the MCL port on the BL3500, without needing an MCL2a / MCL2AV / other box along the way?
That is correct, I have recently tried that with a Beomaster 5500 and a Beolab 3500.
It is that wirering diagram I used for it, so it should work. The pink DC supply in the MCL cable is not used for the BL3500 (Pin 2 on the DIN connector is not connected internally in the BL3500), so if you cannot source the original MCL cable, you can at least do without that
n my configuration, Aux-In directly into the BLC NL/ML automatically turns on the PL speakers and sound starts playing from standby. Also, if a CD was already playing on BS3000, the CD stops spinning and the BS3000 goes into stby, or if an AAC file was playing on BS5, it goes into stby. If my A6 was already joined into the BLC NL/ML soundstream, when sound starts playing on the PL speakers, it also plays on the A6. But if the A6 was on stby, one must manually join it via the B&O app.
Thanks for that thorough explanation of how this function works. I could see the benefit of that as it would probably be used in a combination with an existing Sonos system were it would be great if it could be sued without interaction with two apps, and it sound like that should be possible.
Let me know if any additional questions.
I don’t know if you can answer this as it doesn’t seem like there is a Beovision in your setup. But I wonder if it is possible to use a NL Beovision (in my case a Beoplay V1) joined/integrated permanently with the BLC so the sound is coming out of the TV setups speakers?
Thanks in advance
Hello again. I don’t have much experience with the different B&O active speakers, but most of them should work with your TV. Im sure some other members here can give you some advice regarding that, but you might want to create a new topic with that as a question to get the right people to answer
Sounds like this is actually beginning to be a usefull setup. I havent tried the LP software since I got a BL3500, but I might give it a go again with that just to see If I have better results than I had when connected to the BC6.
I will repport back
Hello and welcome to Beoworld
A very great system you got there. I had one myself for several years and was very satisfied with it.
As for remote a BEO4 will also work. There are many different versions of this remote, but I think the only ones you should avoid are the hotel versions that are limited. You will know them by the lack of print on some of the keys.
Great to hear 🙂
One question about the Google Home App and the V1, what can you do from the Google Home APP? Can you control some functions on the TV?
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