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According to the Beotech page linked to earlier in this thread the MCL30 is simply and on/off button ( or mute if you will) for the speakers connected to it
So the operation of volume and channel switching etc. Will have to be done on the BM3000.
Last week I found another Beogram 2000 for the same price which is in much better cosmetical condition, but where the pickup arm i broken off. I now hope I can combine the best from these 2 decks and get a decent Beogram out of it for almost the same bargain price that you got yours for
I now got around to combining the 2 Beogram 2000’s to one fine unit and the one that may end up as spare parts ( I am waiting for B&O to launch the Beogram 2000c upgrade program 😉 )
First a before picture with the non working, but cosmetically fine on the left, and the working one with the very scratched dustcover and stained aluminum surfaces on the right. The cosmetically fine one do have scratches in the dust cover, but not near the amount on the other unit.
I noticed that the one unit has grey cables while the other one has black ones. The one with the black cables has a higher serial number, so might have been a little design change along the production life.
During the disassembly I leart the on the working unit one of the transport screws was still secured, and while it was wokring I had to do some height adsjustment of the platter after loosening that screw.
The front strip also had scratches on the aluminum on the working unit so had to replace that. It is held in place by three plastic clips that is secured with glue. At first I was not sure If I could get those plastic clips of without breaking them, but with a sharp knife and a little wigeling it was succesfull.
While I was in there I also replaced the belt and the caps. I did not change the speed trimmers as I do not have the equipment for testing the speed for now, so that must be for another time.
On the non working unit i noticed that the motor rattles when I move it arround so it might have other faults that just the broken of pickup arm.
And an after shot of the 2 units
So all in all a succes. It might need some tweaking of the speed and some other adjustments, but for now it is ok. Also the only thing I have with a RIAA amplifier for now is a Beomaster 2400 where the right channel is not working, so no in a hurry with the adjustments.
Whilst the 5000 is essential as a part of the 5000 system as it matches correctly, when taken in isolation I think the Beogram 2000 is the nicest looking – sleek plinth styling and a full clear lid
One thing I have noticed is that the Aluminum line on the sides on the Beogram 2000 lines up nice with a Beosystem 4500 and the aluminum nearly matches the white color on the Beosystem 4500
t is one of the most tempting and beautiful B&O systems imho. The metal surface and the sliding wing mechanism are only two out of a lot of nice features.
Yes it is a very nice system indeed, with some of the B&O magic 🙂
Could you explain, how you plan to approach this, please? Mine is in a very good technical condition, cosmetically the soft touch on both units is starting to get sticky.
I am using Isapropyl alcohol and toilet paper. Had to rub the spot three times to get this result which I think is far better looking than the dusty, scratchy and sticky surface.
It takes some time and rubbing, but I think it is worth it.
You might wan’t to start on the back to see if you like the surface underneath.
If you know how to take of the wings it might be worth doing that to eliminate black spots on them when doing the edges.
P. S.: To my knowledge, the head unit is always capable of playing CDs and DVDs. The socket unit makes the difference, although it seems that not many of the “Audio only” units are available. If the Scart plug is provided (I guess Europe version only), your version is able of playing DVDs.
Yes mine is playing DVD’s, but for the short test I did the controls did not seem that responsible and the interface was horrible looking. Well it’s a long time since I used a DVD player, so might just have gotten to used to streaming movies.
I might Hook it up to my BC6 as a DVD player just because the functionality is there, but guess I’am not gonna use it much for other than testing purposes.
Hi Madskp, hi Guy, the BC6-26 does just not cover the BeoLab bracket cavity. It is very unobtrusive though. See below image of my 6-26 on a BV7 motorized stand. I sat on the floor taking the picture.
Hopr this helps, J.Great picture to show this, thanks ?
And I guess that on a table stand it would be even less noticable.
Ok so I got it disassembled. Pretty easy when using your instructions.
But I can see that even though the cross section is the same in the entire lenght of the pole the threaded holes is only about an inch deep and stops where a reces is cut into the cross section
So in order to cut down the lenght of it new holes will have to be drilled and threaded at the place where it is cut.
This would require some drilling equipment that I do not have, so I guess this will not be the way to go.
The reason for investegating this option was that I have the stand and might as well use it if possible. However I might look into other placement options, and/or maybe the smaller BC6-23 as an option
